LETTERS OF A 




LETTERS 
OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE 



Ji*fi^. 




caA 




LETTERS OF A 
DIPLOMAT'S WIFE 

I 883-1900 

BY 

MARY KING WADDINGTON 



ILLUSTRATED FROM DRAWINGS 
AND PHOTOGRAPHS 



CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 
NEW YORK :::::::::::: 1903 



THE LlbRARY OF 
CONGRESS. 

Two Copies Received 

MAY 16 '903 

Copyright Entry 
CLASS ' XXc No 
COPY B. * 



Copyright, 1903, by 
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 



Published, May, 1903 



b 



TROW DIRECTOR* 

PRINTING AND BOOKBINDING COMFANV 

NEW YORK 



INTRODUCTORY NOTE 

BY THE COLLECTOR OF THE LETTERS 

Mary Alsop King Waddington is a daughter 
of the late Charles King, President of Columbia College 
in the City of New York from 1849 to 1864, and a 
granddaughter of Rufus King, the second Minister sent 
to England by the United States after the adoption of 
the Constitution. 

Miss King was educated in this country. In 1871, 
after the death of her father, she went, with her mother 
and sisters, to live in France, and in 1874 became the 
wife of M. William Henry Waddington. 

M. Waddington was born in Normandy, France, in 
1826. His grandfather was an Englishman who had 
established cotton manufactories in France, and had be- 
come a naturalised French citizen. The grandson, how- 
ever, was educated first in a Paris lycee, then at Rugby., 
and later at Trinity College, Cambridge. As an under- 
graduate he rowed in the Cambridge boat in the Uni- 
versity race of 1849. Soon after leaving the University, 
M. Waddington returned to France and entered public 
life. In 1 87 1 he was elected a representative from the 
Department of the Aisne to the National Assembly, and 
two years afterward was appointed Minister of Public 
Instruction in place of M. Jules Simon. In January, 
1876, he was elected a senator for the Department of 
the Aisne, and two months later again became Minister 



vi INTRODUCTORY NOTE 

of Public InstrjLiction. In December, 1877, he accepted 
the portfolio of Minister of Foreign Affairs. 

M. Waddington was the first plenipotentiary of 
France to the Congress of Berlin in 1878. On February 
4, 1879, he became President of the Council (Premier), 
retiring the following December. In the winter of 1879- 
1880 he refused the offer of the London Embassy. In 
May, 1883, he was sent as Ambassador-Extraordinary to 
represent France at the coronation of the Czar Alex- 
ander III at Moscow, and upon his return from Russia 
was appointed Ambassador at the Court of St. James 
to succeed M. Tissot. He held this post until 1893, 
and died in Paris in the following year. 

Mine. Waddington accompanied her husband on his 
missions to both England and Russia. The letters col- 
lected in this volume were written during the period 
of her husband's diplomatic service to describe to her 
sisters the personages and incidents of her official life. 
About a fourth part of their number have lately been 
published in Scribncr's Magazine; with this exception, 
the letters are now given to the public for the first time. 

Tompkins McIlvaine. 
New York, April 1, 1903. 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



Portrait of Madame Waddington . . . Frontispiece 

FACING 
PAGE 

Colonel Benckendorff 34 

From a photograph by Bergatnasco, St. Petersburg. 

The Emperor Crowning the Empress. Church de 

l'Assomption 66 

Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes ... 68 

Grand Due Wladimir . 104 

From a photograph by Bergamasco, St. Petersburg. 

M. William Waddington 142 

From a copyright photograph by Russetl &* San. 

The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London . .168 

The Dining-room of the French Embassy, London, 

Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries . 172 

J. J. Jusserand, Counsellor of the French Embassy 178 

Recently appointed Frouh A mbassador to the United States. From a 
photograph by Watery, Paris. 

The Duchess of Cambridge 180 

From a photograph by Walery, London. 

Windsor Castle . . . 192 

M. and Mme. Waddington and Their Son . . . 198 

From a photograph by Cesar, Paris. 

The Salon of the French Embassy in London . . 210 

Lady Salisbury . - .216 

Knowsley Hall 228 

The Earl 'of Derby's plact at Prescot, Laticashiri . 

vil 



viii ILLUSTRATIONS 



FACING 
PAGE 



The Late Earl of Derby ....... 232 

From a photograph by Franz Baum, London. 

The Countess Fanny Karolyi, the Austrian Am- 
bassadress .... 240 

Front a photograph by Walery, London. 

Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the 

State Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887 . . 250 

From a photograph, copyright, by Hughes &> Mullins, Ryde, England. 

The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the 
Uniform Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebra- 
tion, London, June, 1887 254 

From a pJwtograph by Locschcr &° Petsch, Berlin. 

COMTESSE DE FLORIAN 262 

From a photograph by Walery, London. 

Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the 

Shah of Persia, July 8, 1889 304 

Frotn a photograph by Russell &° Sons, London. 

Lord Salisbury 306 

From ap/totograph by Lambert Weston &* Son, Dover. 

A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy . 320 

From a photograph by Barker <5r> Pragnell, London. 

The Empress Frederick, wearing the Order of the 

Black Eagle 388 

TJie last portrait 0/ the Empress by the artist Angeli. 

Entrance to the Club and Gardens, Cowes, Isle of 

Wight 392 

From a photograph by Broderick. 



LETTERS 
OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE 



PART I 
THE CORONATION OF THE CZAR 



To G. K. S. 

Paris, 
31, Rue Dumont d' Urville, 
March 15, 1883. 

Our breakfast at the English Embassy was most inter- 
esting. I began by refusing on account of my mourn- 
ing, but Lord Lyons wrote me a nice note saying that 
there would be no one but the Leon Says and Mr. and 
Mrs. Gladstone, so I accepted. I was very anxious to 
see Mr. Gladstone. 

We had a pretty little breakfast upstairs in the small 
dining-room, and the talk at table was most interest- 
ing. I thought Mrs. Gladstone looked older than her 
husband. He of course did most of the talking. He 
has a fine voice, bright, keen, dark eyes, holds himself 
very erect, and apparently knows everything about 
everything. When the men were smoking after break- 
fast I had quite a talk with Mrs. Gladstone, who told 
me about the murder of Lord Frederick Cavendish. 
She said her husband heard it at a big London party, 
and had to go and tell Lady Frederick. Mr. Gladstone 
was more upset by the whole thing (and the having to 
tell the unfortunate wife) than she had ever seen him. 
II y avait de quoi, for even here in Paris, where outside 

3 



4 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [March 

questions don't trouble them very much, there was great 
excitement when the news came. 

I had a nice talk with Plunkett, who congratulated me 
on W.'s* appointment as Ambassador to Vienna. I told 
him there was no truth in the report (they had offered 
it to W., but he won't hear of it), and I think he is quite 
right. He has no particular attaches at Vienna. He 
knows German well, but doesn't speak it absolutely per- 
fectly, and hasn't really the social talents that one needs 
in Vienna. They ought to send a dashing general, or a 
courtier, not a serious savant. 

We certainly are leading different lives. I am wrapped 
in my fur coat, and driving in a shut carriage. Your 
tea in the garden sends a shiver through me. It sounds 
quite romantic having the son of the "Roi des Mon- 
tagnes" to breakfast. I wonder if I shall ever see 
Athens; W. says when I do that I will never care again 
for Rome; that colouring and ruins are far superior in 
Greece. I almost think in that case I would rather re- 
main under my present impression of dear, beautiful 
Rome, not quite like our American friend, who thought 
"the Colosseum was pretty, but she liked the Court- 

House at St. Louis better." 

Paris, 
Sunday, March 18, 1883. 

I will write a little this morning, Dear — I am just back 
from l'Etoile. I have had rather an agitated week, and 
here is my news, good — bad — I don't know myself. W. 
is going as Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow to 
represent France at the Coronation of the Emperor Alex- 

* W. here and throughout these letters refers to Mme. Waddington's 
husband, M. William Henry Waddington, "G. K. S.," "H. L. K.," "A. 
J. K." and "J. K.," to whom the letters are addressed, refer to Mme. Wad- 
dington's sisters, Mrs. Eugene Schuyler, Miss Henrietta L. King, and 
the late Miss Anne J. King, and to her sister-in-law, the late Mrs. Cor- 
nelius L. King. 



i88 3 ] THE RUSSIAN MISSION 5 

ander. It was a "bolt from the blue" to us. I will tell 
you from the beginning. We went to ride as usual 
Thursday morning, but rather earlier than usual (9.30). 
When we came home Mdme. Hubert told us we hadn't 
been gone ten minutes, when le Ministre des Affaires 
Etrangeres (Challemel-Lacour) came to see W., was 
much discomposed at not finding him, and told Mdme. 
H. he would come back at 11. He didn't reappear, but 
one of the young attaches did, with a note from Challe- 
mel begging W. to come and see him directly after 
breakfast. We couldn't think what he wanted, but we 
both made up our minds it was to insist on the Vienna 
Embassy. I protested, and I think W. would not have 
taken it. 

I went out in the afternoon with Anne to try on a dress 
at Redfern's, and just as we were coming away W. ap- 
peared. He had seen the carriage at the door and knew 
he would find us. He looked rather preoccupied, so I 
said, "You are not surely going to Vienna?" 

"No, not to Vienna, probably to Russia, for the Coro- 
nation." 

I was too bewildered at first to take it in, and I must 
frankly say I was wretched. Of course he asked 24 
hours to think it over, though the Minister urged him 
very much to accept at once. Challemel also wishes me 
to go, says a woman gives more eclat to an Embassy. 
Of course it will be a magnificent sight, but I am a per- 
fect poltroon — I am so afraid they will take advantage 
of that crowd to blow up everybody. However, if that 
should happen it would be better to be blown up to- 
gether, but I really am nervous (I am not usually such a 
coward, but Russian Nihilists and dynamiters are terrible 
elements to contend with), and wish they hadn't asked 
him to go. 



6 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [March 

Of course it is a great honour and compliment to W.'s 
personal position, and I have given no opinion, but I 
don't feel happy at all. I have always said that I would 
never try to influence my husband's actions (public) in 
any way, and I suppose I have kept to that as well as 
most women do who marry public men, but I should like 
to put a decided veto now. I will keep you au courant of 
the decision. 

March 20th. 

Well, Dear, it is quite decided. W. accepts to go to 
Moscow, and takes me with him. He consulted his 
brother and his friends and all told him he could not re- 
fuse. As long as they didn't send a soldier (W. himself 
would have asked Marechal MacMahon to go, if he had 
been at the Foreign Office), he was "tout indique."* It 
seems all the other Powers are going to send Princes — 
Spain, the Due de Montpensier; England, the Duke of 
Edinburgh; Italy, the Due d'Aoste, etc. 

We are to start somewhere about the 8th or 10th of 
May. W. is busy now composing his Mission. Of course 
everybody wants to go. It seems such an undertaking. 
We had a nice ride this morning — various people riding 
with us, and all talking about the Coronation. I over- 
heard one timid old gentleman saying to W., "Vous em- 
menez votre femme ? Vous avez tort ; on ne sait pas ce 
qui peut arriver" — not very reassuring. 

April 1 st. 
My Dear, my letters will now become monotonous, 
as I have only one idea — the Mission. All the arrange- 
ments are being made, such an affair. W. has sent off 
a man to Moscow to see about a house big enough to 

* After the Berlin Congress and the Foreign Office. 



1883] PERSONNEL OF THE MISSION 7 

hold all the party, with ballroom, and large dining-room 
We are 9 people — W. and I; Comte de Pontecoulant, 
Ministre Plenipotentiaire (W.'s ancien Chef de Cabinet); 
General Pittie (General de Division, chef de la maison 
militaire du President de la Republique); Colonel 
Comte de Sesmaisons, commandant les 6eme hus- 
sards; Francois de Corcelle, Secretaire d'Ambassade; 
Commandant Fayet (de la maison du President — 
Jules Grevy) ; Richard Waddington, Depute, Capitaine 
dans l'armee territoriale; Robert Calmon, lieutenant 
dans l'armee territoriale. L'uniforme est absolument 
necessaire en Russie. 

We have three servants — W.'s valet Joseph and my 
two maids Adelaide and Mdme. Hubert. All the gentle- 
men have their servants. Then there is Pierson, the 
huissier from the Quai d'Orsay (you know whom I mean, 
the big man who wears a gilt chain, announces the people, 
and writes down names, etc.), two cooks with one or 
two garcons de cuisine; 3 coachmen, Hubert of course, 
and two Englishmen. One, Mr. Leroy, such a magnifi- 
cent person, came this morning to see W. He has al- 
ready represente on several occasions, and driven gala 
carriages, etc. He seems graciously inclined to go with 
us (with very high wages, and making his conditions — 
will drive only the Ambassador and Ambassadress in the 
gala carriage, etc.). That will necessitate very delicate 
negotiations with Hubert, who also wishes to drive only 
the Ambassador and me. However, as he has never 
driven a gala carriage, and they are very heavy, unwieldy 
vehicles to manage, I think he must waive his claim. 

April 10th. 
There has also been a long consultation about horses, 
how many for the gala carriage. When Marechal Mac- 



8 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [April 

Mahon went as Ambassador Extraordinary to the Em- 
peror of Germany's Coronation he had six horses and 
running footmen (it seems there must be six or two — 
four are not allowed. Four would be too sporting — not 
serious enough). We have four enormous footmen, 
and one ordinary sized one for every-day use — 2 gala 
carriages, and a coupe d'Orsay, which must be painted 
dark blue with white stripes, our colours. 

April 1 2th. 

We are getting on slowly. The horse question is 
settled — no one has more than two, so we take 9 
enormous carrossiers. Hawes is commissioned to get 
them. They could not be found anywhere in France. 
I forget the exact height (as big as they make them), 
but he promises to get them from England, or the 
Luxembourg, where it seems they have a special breed 
of enormous, heavy coach horses. 

We had a most satisfactory interview this morning 
with M. Lhermite, the head man of the great restaurant, 
Potel & Chabot. W. had been rather bothered about 
a head man, or major domo, who could take charge of 
the whole household. Our Joseph is not very brilliant 
— he does W.'s service, and can look after an ordinary 
household, but would not be at all up to the mark in 
this case. Lhermite heard that W. was looking for 
someone, so he came and volunteered to go with us, 
and superintend everything. He was so well dressed 
and had such good manners that W. rather demurred, 
and thought he was above the place; however Lhermite 
pressed it very much, and wound up by saying, "J'm 
ete cuisinier moi-meme, Monsieur, personne ne vous 
servira mieux que moi." So it was settled, and he has 
full powers to engage cooks, scullions, etc. 



t88 3 ] PREPARATIONS 9 

The man who went to Moscow has just sent us the 
plan of the house which he has found. It seems large 
and handsome, a good entrance, marble staircase, large 
ballroom and dining-room, and sufficient bedrooms. It 
calls itself "Maison Klein," not a palace; and is evidently 
the house of a rich Jew. 

Sunday, May 6th. 

I am glad to have a day of rest, Dear. I didn't even 
get up for church. The standing at the dressmaker's 
is something awful. Yesterday I tried 12 dresses 
(finished), 6 at Delannoy's before breakfast, and 6 at 
Philippe's afterwards. They are all handsome — I think 
the Court dresses will be handsome. The principal one 
for the day of the Coronation is sapphire blue satin 
embroidered all round the train (3 metres long), with a 
beautiful wreath of flowers in chenille, and silk, and gold 
and silver leaves; very showy, in fact rather clinquant 
(not at all like me), but they said I must have "des toi- 
lettes a effet qui seraient remarquees." The under-dress 
is salmon pink satin, the front all covered with flowers 
to match the embroidery. I shall wear blue feathers 
(short ones) in my hair. I am happy to say that the 
regulation white waving plumes of the English Court 
are not de rigueur in Russia. The other train is a pale 
pink satin with raised dark red flowers and velvet leaves, 
all the front my old point de Venise flounces which look 
handsome. I suppose I shall take about 18 dresses in all. 

I have just had a nice visit from Prince Orlorr", Russian 
Ambassador here, who is a great friend of ours, and who 
was very anxious from the first that I should go. I 
confided to him that I was very nervous and uncomfort- 
able. I don't mind so much in the day time when I 
am seeing quantities of people, and interested in the 



io LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

preparations; but I don't sleep, and have visions of the 
Kremlin being blown up, and all sorts of horrors. As 
Richard* goes with us too, I have made W. appoint a 
guardian for Francis, as Henrietta and Anne could hardly 
bring up a Frenchman, and after all we may none of us 
ever come back. 

Henrietta was reduced to tears this morning when W. 
gave her the key of his secretaire, and said his will and 
last directions were there, in case anything happened to 
him — cheerful preparations for a festive journey. 

Tuesday, May 8, 1883. 

Our boxes and cases are being packed, and the house 
is a curiosity — crowded with every conceivable thing. 
My two maids (I take Mdme. Hubert too, as Adelaide is 
not very strong, and if she gave out I should be in a bad 
way) are much taken up with their outfit. They each 
have two sets of new things, a blue serge costume and 
coat for travelling, and a black silk for their gala 
occasions. Pontecoulant is always teasing Mdme. Hu- 
bert, and asking if "ses toilettes sont pretes." 

This morning I saw the 9 gigantic horses which were 
paraded under the windows. They started to-night, as 
they must rest at Berlin. M. Lhermite is a treasure. 
He also starts to-night with his cooks and provisions of 
all kinds. W. and Pontecoulant gave him all their in- 
structions, and then he came for mine. I told him I 
must have my maids in the room next to me, and as we 
had a plan of the house, it is quite easy. I have a fair- 
sized bedroom and dressing-room (which he will arrange 
as a sort of boudoir) on the court (no living rooms are 
on the street), and the maids a large room opening out 

* Richard Waddington, Mme. Waddington's brother-in-law, now Senator 
of the Seine Inferieure. 



i88 3 ] A QUESTION OF JEWELS n 

of the dressing-room. He is eminently practical; takes 
charge of the whole personnel, will arrange a sort of 
dormitory for all the men servants; will see that they are 
ready in time, clean and well turned out. 

Pontecoulant, who is also very practical, overlooks 
that part of the business; also the stables, and Mr. Leroy 
and Lhermite will report to him every morning. Leroy 
has also just been in, much pleased with his gala carriage 
and liveries. Hubert is beaming, and most particular 
about his lace jabot and ruffles. I wonder how they will 
all ever settle down to our quiet life again. 

Thursday, ioth. 
I will finish this afternoon, Dear. I am ready to start, 
dressed in my travelling dress, dark blue cloth, with a 
long coat lined with red satin, and a black hat with blue 
feathers (I haven't got on the coat and hat yet). There 
has been such a procession of people all day, and great 
vans to carry off the luggage. I have been rather 
bothered about my jewels — how to carry them. I have 
taken everything the family own. Anne's necklace, with 
some extra stones I had, has been converted into a tiara. 
All the Russian women wear their National coiffure at 
the Coronation, the Kakoshnik. As that is very high, 
studded with jewels, any ordinary arrangement of stars 
and feathers would look insignificant. Freddy, who is 
an authority on such matters, advised me to concentrate 
all my efforts on the tiara — he also suggested ropes of 
pearls (artificial) but I couldn't make up my mind to 
that. Chemin, the jeweller, was very anxious I should 
"louer" a sort of breastplate of diamonds — but on the 
whole I preferred taking less — merely mine and the 
sisters'. What I shall do if they are stolen or lost I am 
sure I don't know. I don't care to carry them my- 



12 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

self in a bag, as I never by any chance carry my bag, I 
should certainly leave it somewhere; and I don't like 
to give it to the maids either, so I have put all the jewels 
in two trunks, scattered about the fond, wrapped up with 
silk stockings, etc. 

I have given my last instructions to Nounou, and a 
nice young coachman who comes to replace Hubert in 
our absence, and also provided a surprise for baby in the 
shape of a large train, which will distract him the first 
days. We saw also this morning the detective who goes 
with us. He is one of those who always accompany the 
foreign Princes who pass through Paris, and is said to 
know well all the great nihilist leaders (all of whom he 
says will be at the Coronation). He has two ordi- 
nary policemen with him. They go of course on the 
train with us, and never lose sight of us. I shall feel 
rather like a distinguished criminal being tracked across 
Europe. 

Pontecoulant is very funny over Philippe the coiffeur, 
who presented himself at the Quai d'Orsay, and insisted 
upon being included in the suite (consequently travelling 
free of expense on the special trains, etc., with us). He 
really isn't my coiffeur — I never have anyone except 
Georges from time to time, but I daresay I shall be glad 
to have him. He said to Pontecoulant, "Monsieur le 
Comte comprend bien qu'il faut que je pose le diademe 
de Madame l'Ambassadrice le jour du Couronnement;" 
however he has gained his point, and Madame l'Ambas- 
sadrice takes her own coiffeur with her, as well as her 
two maids. 

Well, Dear, we are going in an hour, and I must try 
and reason with myself, and not be the arrant coward I 
really feel like. 



i88 3 ] ARRIVAL IN BERLIN. 13 

To G. K. S. 

Kaiserhof, Berlin, 
Saturday, May 12th, 1883. 

Here we are, having accomplished our journey so far 
most comfortably. We arrived last night about 9, and 
this morning I am unpacking a little, and settling myself, 
as we shall stay four or five days. Our departure from 
the Gare du Nord Thursday night was a curiosity. We 
got rather early to the station, as W. was preoccupied 
with the baggage, and besides there were last words to 
say to all the people who came to see us off. Henrietta, 
rather tearful, came with us to the station — Francis was 
so engrossed with his new railway train that was career- 
ing round on beautiful green rails in his father's study, 
that he was quite indifferent. The whole quai was filled 
with boxes and trunks labelled "Waddington, Moscow," 
and when you think that all the soldiers took their saddles 
and trappings of all kinds, and what the stable alone 
represented, 2 enormous gala carriages, one coupe 
d'Orsay, and all the heavy harness and servants' liveries, 
you can imagine what an excitement there was until 
everything was put on board. 

We started, however, fairly punctually — W. and I had 
a lit-salon, with cabinet de toilette; the two maids and 
W.'s man next door, and Sesmaisons and Franqois de 
Corcelle (the only two who came with us, the rest of 
the Mission joins us Tuesday at Berlin), had their coupe 
next to ours. There were all sorts of last directions to 
be given to Pontecoulant, and to poor Henrietta, who 
remains in charge of Francis. 

I slept pretty well all night, as you know I am a good 
traveller, and about 7 Adelaide came in to arrange me 
a little, as we were to breakfast at Cologne (where we 



14 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

were due at 8 o'clock) with our consul there, and also 
the consul at Diisseldorf, who is rather a friend of W.'s. 
We had a very good little breakfast in the private room, 
and when we started again, the Chef-de-Gare coming at 
the last moment to conduct us to our coupe, there was 
much bowing and scraping to Monsieur l'Ambassadeur 
and Mdme. l'Ambassadrice. We made quite an excite- 
ment at the station, and all the people who were com- 
ing and going in the numerous trains that passed through 
had their heads out of the windows to see what was 
going on. They had filled our coupe with papers of all 
kinds (German), illustrated and political, also a large 
bouquet for me. 

We dined at Hanover, not in a private room this time, 
but at a round table at one end of the large room. Who 
do you think came to see me? Mr. Joy; he had seen in 
the papers that we were to pass through, so he took 
himself down to the station to see if he could see us. 
I introduced him to W. — we had only time for a little 
talk, as he came rather late. He also brought papers 
and a magazine or two, so we are well supplied with 
literature for the present. 

When we arrived here at the station we found M. de 
Courcel, our Ambassador in Berlin, waiting for us with 
all his staff. He drove us at once in his carriage to the 
hotel, and said he would come in again an Hour later 
and tell W. about his audiences, etc. We have beautiful 
rooms, a large salon looking on the street, dining-room, 
two good-sized bedrooms and a very good ante-room 
(where by the way Pierson, with his chain and sword 
and dress clothes, is already installed. When I came out 
of the salon just now he was there, and I rather felt as 
if I was back at the Ouai d'Orsay, and he was announc- 
ing my visitors). 



i88 3 ] "UNTER DEN LINDEN" 15 

While we were talking to Courcel last night one of 
the hotel servants came in to say — would I go for one 
moment to speak to the maids, he couldn't make out 
what they wanted. I did go, but merely to tell these 
ladies that I would thank them to get along as well as 
they could, and to find a polygot waiter, or someone to 
translate for them; that I certainly was not going to 
look out for them, and they had better try and learn a 
little German. 

Courcel says the Emperor, Prince Imperial, and Bis- 
marck all want to see W. — he also warns him that 
Bismarck is in an execrable humor. I don't think W. 
minds that very much. He is a very cool gentleman 
himself, and I imagine he will say all he wants to to the 
great man. 

10-30. 

W. and I went for a walk before breakfast to the 
Pariser Platz to see the outside of the French Embassy ; 
it looks big and imposing. We came home through 
"Unter den Linden." Berlin has much improved, and 
has much more the air of a capital than when I first saw 
it a great many years ago. Of course I was much struck 
with the quantities of soldiers one sees in the streets. 
The officers are a fine lot of men, but, like ramrods, 
so stiff; and when they are walking two or three to- 
gether take up the whole pavement. 

Sesmaisons and Corcelle breakfasted with us — Ses- 
maisons is delighted to be back in Berlin. He was mili- 
tary attache there at the time of the Berlin Congress, 
when St. Vallier was Ambassador, and has many friends. 
M. de Courcel came in just as we were finishing, with 
a long list for W., his audience cards, invitations, etc. 
Then came George de Bunsen with his wife and daugh- 



16 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

ters. I had never seen the ladies of the family, and 
was glad to make their acquaintance. They were very 
friendly, and we made various engagements with them. 
M. de Bunsen I had seen before in France — he is quite 
charming, very good-looking, and not at all Prussian, so 
cosmopolitan, which is always most attractive. 

W. and I went out together and paid several visits, to 
the Embassy first, where we found Mdme. de Courcel. 
The rooms are large and handsome, with good pictures 
and splendid tapestries. We took a turn in the Thier- 
garten, and the Jardin Zoologique (where we saw an 
enormous yellow lion — a terrible beast, handsome, too). 
W. then went to see Hatzfeldt (Foreign Minister), who 
was very amiable, but said nothing in particular — none 
of Bismarck's people ever do. 

We dined early at the Embassy with all the per- 
sonnel. The dinner was good and handsome, plenty of 
servants, lights, flowers — everything in very good style. 
While the men were smoking Mdme. de Courcel and I 
talked. She told me some of her Berlin experiences, 
and how difficult her beginnings were, but I suppose 
they always must be until one has had time to look 
around a little. We have just come home, and after 
talking a little with the gentlemen I have left them to 
their cigars and papers, and am glad to be in my own 
quarters. 

The maids have had a delightful afternoon. They 
have found a gerant who speaks French, and who has 
taken them a little about Berlin, which they find "tres 
gentil." W. has his audience from the Emperor at one 
o'clock to-morrow in uniform. None of the ladies, Em- 
press nor Princesses, are here, so I have nothing to do. 



i88 3 ] AUDIENCE WITH THE EMPEROR 17 

Sunday, May 13th. 

I didn't go out this morning, but wrote and read. 
The two gentlemen breakfasted with us as usual, and a 
little before one W. went off for his audience with the 
Emperor in full uniform, which is very becoming to him. 
(He hates it as it is so heavy, with all the thick gold 
embroidery, and he is very hot and uncomfortable.) 
The audience lasted about three-quarters of an hour. 
W. was astounded at the Emperor's appearance and con- 
versation, said he was au courant of everything — he said 
among other things — 'Ah, vous emmenez Mme. Wad- 
dington a Moscow? eh bien ! moi, je n'envoie pas mon 
heritier," adding though immediately he didn't think 
there was any danger from the Nihilists this time. 

He had barely time to get home and out of his uni- 
form when Lord and Lady Ampthill arrived. They were 
quite charming, both of them. He and I plunged into 
the old Roman days, where we knew him so well as 
Odo Russell. They are great favourites here, both at 
court and with their colleagues. He spoke a great deal 
about St. Vallier, said he was the best colleague he had 
ever had. 

At four W. started again to see Bismarck (not in uni- 
form this time), and I drove out to the George Bun- 
sens' to have tea. They have a pretty house. Theodore 
was also there, and we had a pleasant hour. They asked 
us to come in to-morrow after our dinner at the Em- 
bassy. When I got back I found W. smoking in a big 
arm-chair, quite pleased with his talk with Bismarck, 
who was most amiable, had at least no "crise de nerfs" 
while he was there. He said he was very frank, almost 
brutal, in his appreciations of other countries, and par- 
ticularly of different public men whose views didn't co- 
incide directly with his, but on the whole not too offen- 



1 8 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

sive. He kept him until his dinner was announced (at 
5 o'clock), and asked him to come and see him on his 
way back from Moscow, and give him his impressions; 
so apparently it is only from his own agents that he 
doesn't wish impressions. Do you remember C. writing 
to him, from the Hague, I think, the account of some 
manifestation or political crisis, and naturally saying what 
he thought about the matter; and the very curt answer 
he received from the Minister, saying he had asked for 
facts, and not for "personal appreciations." One would 
think that the opinion of the most ordinary agent on 
the spot would have a certain importance. 



Tuesday, 15th. 

It is very warm — I have been out with Adelaide trying 
to get a light blouse, my cloth body is unbearable. 
Everything was shut yesterday, as it was Whit Monday. 
W. dined at the Palace at 5, Sesmaisons also. I went to 
the races with Mdme. de Courcel and some of the young 
men. It was rather amusing, a lovely day, about three 
quarters of an hour by train from Berlin. The public 
was not nearly so elegant as on a Paris race-course, but 
there were more pretty women, and quantities of stiff, 
arrogant officers (always en tenue). 

When we got back to the hotel at 7.30 we found W. 
at the door, just back from his dinner, so Francois de 
Corcelle and I dined tete-a-tete, and W. talked to us 
— said the dinner was good, small and easy. The Prince 
Imperial and Grand Duchess of Baden were both there. 
The Grand Duchess told W. that in a telegram received 
that morning from her mother (the Empress Augusta) 
she had said how much she regretted not seeing him, 
that she had always watched his career with great inter- 



i88 3 ] AT THE FRENCH EMBASSY 19 

est, and was very glad to see him coming to the front 
again. 

The Emperor talked about everything — France; Eng- 
land; the religious question in France; he believed French 
women of all classes were clerical, and under the influ- 
ence of the priests, so naturally they could have no 
sympathy with a liberal government, "which is a pity, it 
is a mistake to have the women against you." We had 
an audience with the Prince Imperial after dinner, which 
was pleasant, but absolutely commonplace. He and all 
the Princes were in uniform, petite tenue. 

We finished our evening at the Bunsens', which was 
pleasant. W. was very glad to have a quiet talk with 
M. de Bunsen, who is most attractive, such a charming 
manner. This evening we have dined as usual at the 
French Embassy with quite a party, including Bleich- 
roeder, an Israelite banker, bras droit of Bismarck, and 
therefore interesting. We came early, as all the rest of 
our Mission arrived to-night at 9 o'clock, and we wanted 
to see them. They all came up after supper, looking 
most cheerful, had had a very pleasant journey, rather 
warm in the middle of the day, and were quite game 
to see all they can of Berlin to-morrow, as we go on to 
Warsaw to-morrow night. 

Wednesday, May 16th. 

We are starting this evening, Dear, so I will scratch a 
few lines to finish this very long epistle, and will send it 
from here. It is still very warm. I went out to see 
some of the pictures (how beautiful the Velasquez are) 
and the marbles of Pergamos, and Pontecoulant and I 
breakfasted together at the hotel ; W. and Richard at the 
George Bunsens', who really have been as friendly and 
hospitable as possible. After breakfast we had various 



20 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

visits, and then Pontecoulant, Corcelle and I went for a 
last drive in the Thier-Garten. I hoped we should meet 
either the Emperor (I have never seen him) or the Prince 
Imperial, but we didn't. There were plenty of people 
riding and driving, as it was the fashionable day "Corso." 
We saw the Princess Frederick Charles in an open car- 
riage with four horses, and a piqueur in front. The Court 
liveries are handsome, but sombre, black and silver. 
Everybody bowed and curtseyed, the officers saluting 
de front. 

We went round by the Zoo to show Pontecoulant the 
big lion. Pontecoulant was most amusing over their 
journey, and said he was nearly driven out of his mind 
the day before they started with all the people who came 
to see him. He says Philippe, the coiffeur, has never left 
him, that it won't be his fault if my diadem is not per- 
fectly pose, and that he plied him with beer all along the 
route. He is here supping and living at the hotel with 
all our suite, and sent word to me this morning that 
he was at my disposition to make me a "coiffure de cir- 
constance" for the night journey. What do you suppose 
it would have been? 

Pontecoulant had seen Henrietta and Francis the day 
he left, and had left orders at the Foreign Office that the 
Havas telegrams which will keep her au courant of our 
movements shall always be sent to her. All the per- 
sonnel except W. and me dine at the Embassy to-night. 
I am not sorry to have a quiet evening. We leave at 
ii to-night, and get to Alexandrownow about 7.30 to- 
morrow. That is the Russian frontier, and there we 
shall have some sort of official reception. 

W. has been riding these last two days with Sancy, 
the military attache, and that always does him good. 
I couldn't find any sort of silk blouse, so I trust it won't 



i88 3 ] DEPARTURE FROM BERLIN 21 

be very warm travelling to-night. When we cross the 
frontier I shall feel as if our journey had begun. Here 
we have lived so with the Embassy that I hardly feel as 
if I was abroad, only the cadre is different, and the 
Prussian uniforms a disagreeable reminder. I don't 
think it is an easy post to be Ambassador here, and I 
should think M. de Courcel's succession would be a very 
difficult one. He knows German well, and has always 
lived with diplomatists, but if they send a political 
man, I think he will have a hard time; though as Bis- 
marck said to W. when they were talking about any 
possible war in Europe — "Je desire la paix, je suis un 
homme satisfait," which wasn't very pleasant for the 
French Ambassador to hear, as I suppose what has 
largely contributed to his satisfaction is the possession 
of Alsace-Lorraine. 

We have had our dinner, and W. smoked on the bal- 
cony, and we saw all the gentleman-servants, omnibuses 
and baggage start. We shall only go just in time to 
have 5 minutes talk on the platform with M. de Courcel, 
who is coming to say good-by. The gerant of the hotel 
has just been up to hope we were satisfied — would we 
telegraph when we came back, as of course he would 
give us the same rooms, and presented me with a large 
bouquet. 

Did I say that the Malagache Embassy was at the 
hotel, on the same floor with us. Every time I go down 
the corridor I see two or three tall, dark men, dressed 
in white flowing garments and white turbans, who make 
me low salaams. They are not going to the "Kronung," 
as they call it here. 

My next letter will be from Warsaw, where we should 
arrive at 4 to-morrow afternoon. 



22 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 



To H. L. K. 

H6tel de l'Europe, Varsovie, 
Thursday, May 17th, 1883. 

Here we are, Dear, having arrived from Berlin at 3.30 
this afternoon. We started at 1 1 — it was very hot even 
at that hour of the night, and the coupe-lit stuffy and 
uncomfortable. M. de Courcel and all his staff were at 
the station to see us off, and the two Embassies united 
made quite a gathering. I had a little talk with Princess 
Guillaume Radziwill, who is starting for the Coronation. 
It seems she has splendid jewels, and was rather bothered 
to know how to carry them. She has got them all on, 
in little leather bags around her waist, and she thinks 
she won't be very comfortable all night, with pins, 
brooches, etc., running into her. She was horrified when 
I told her where mine were. 

The night was long, we were not very comfortable, 
and the gentlemen were decidedly squeezed in one little 
carriage. We stopped somewhere, I don't remember 
the name, about 6. The men all got out and had coffee. 
I didn't move, but they sent me in a cup. We got to 
Alexandrownow, the Russian frontier, about 8. The 
station had a decidedly festive appearance — flags, greens, 
soldiers, music, etc. They were evidently preparing a 
salute and a national anthem of some kind. We all 
thought it was for us, and were proceeding to emerge to 
the strains of the "Marseillaise," when we heard the 
"Wacht-am-Rhein." It seems there was a Hessian 
Prince, nephew of the Emperor, on board, who was also 
going to the Coronation, so we rentreed our heads, and 
remained quietly in our carriages until they had disposed 
of him. 



i88 3 ] ON THE RUSSIAN FRONTIER 23 

Then came our turn. We were received with all 
ceremony — a tall Russian officer took charge of me, say- 
ing, in very good French, he was sure I would like to 
brush off the dust, and have some tea, etc. He took me 
upstairs to a very nice room, where a little maid was 
waiting with hot water, towels, brushes, tea, and little 
rolls. I took off my dress to have it brushed, and while 
I was standing in my petticoats several gentlemen came 
to the door (which wouldn't shut), and made various per- 
fectly unintelligible remarks to me. The little maid 
laughed and made signs, and carried off my dress, which 
I thought was dangerous — however I couldn't say any- 
thing, so I put myself behind the door, and Adelaide 
arranged my hair; and I was just thinking of having a 
cup of tea when the maid reappeared with my dress, 
accompanied by another officer, who told me in French, 
from the other side of the door, that his Royal High- 
ness of Hesse hoped I would do him the honour of 
breakfasting with him. I said I would come with pleas- 
sure, but begged they wouldn't wait, as I was not quite 
ready. As soon as I was dressed I sallied out, found 
my officer waiting, who conducted me to a private room, 
where were the Prince and his party, including W. and a 
Russian general, who had been sent from Varsovie to 
meet the Hessian Prince. 

They were all at table — the Prince put me next to him, 
introduced the Russian general and all his suite, and we 
had rather a pleasant hour. We had excellent tea in 
glasses (the first time I ever saw it), delicious little rolls, 
eggs, and cold meat. The Prince is a tall, broad- 
shouldered, good-natured German, speaking French 
quite well. 

We had the same ceremony at starting, first the 
"Wacht-am-Rhein" for the Germans, then the "Marseil- 



24 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

laise" for us. The journey was not particularly interest- 
ing from the frontier here, but Varsovie itself most 
curious. We found the same bustle and preparation at 
the station here — the Governor of Varsovie, and Prefet 
de Police en tenue, and our Consul, M. Berard. 

We drove at once to the hotel, looked at our rooms, 
which are comfortable, and started again for a little drive 
through the town before dinner. Anything so unlike 
the cities one has been accustomed to see can't be im- 
agined, long, straggling streets, enormous spaces, many 
houses tumbling down, and abominable pavement, deep 
holes, and paving stones as big as ordinary rocks — why 
the carriage ever got along was a mystery to us all. 
The Russian coachman, a perfect type with his long 
caftan and flat cap. Why the horses remain attached 
to the carriage is a problem, as they apparently have no 
harness of any description. I used to think we didn't 
use much in America. Will you ever forget Coligny's 
face at Oyster Bay when we started trotting down hill 
without any breeching? 

There were quantities of dirty Polish Jews in every 
direction, all with their long caftans, greasy, black curls, 
and ear-rings. I had time to rest a little before dinner. 
We all dined together, also Berard the Consul, all the 
men in their dress clothes, and I in my grey moire with 
white lace, and a big, black velvet bow, one string of 
pearls which I had on under my corsage. Pontecoulant, 
who is the next man to W., took me in, and I had General 
Pittie on the other side. The dinner was handsome and 
well served. Pontecoulant had attended to that while 
we were driving about. 

After dinner the men all went off to the theatre in the 
Governor's box to see a famous ballet. I was rather 
tired, and as we start again to-morrow, and have two 



i88 3 ] A POLISH CHATEAU 25 

nights in the train, I sha'n't mind going to bed early. I 
was interrupted, as we have had a visit, pleasant enough, 
from Mavrocordato (Greek), who is also on his way to 
Moscow to represent his country, and now I am going to 
bed. We leave to-morrow at 4, and I will try and write 
a little en route. They say I can probably, as the 
Russian roads (railroads) are smooth, and they go very 
slowly. 

Friday, 2 o'clock. 

I will go on a little and send this letter also from here. 
We had an expedition this morning to one of the 
chateaux belonging to some member of the Sobieski 
family, or rather belonging to a Potocki quelconque, 
where there are many souvenirs of Sobieski. I never was 
on such a villainous pavement (they tell me Moscow is 
worse), and the road long and straight through flat 
country, not very interesting. The chateau was full of 
pictures and bibelots of all kinds, and every possible sou- 
venir of Sobieski, flags, swords, snuff-boxes, etc., and 
quite worth seeing. I enjoyed the outing, as everything 
was absolutely unique, carriages, costumes, carts, people, 
language, houses, a poor tumble-down little hovel next 
to a great palace with gates and courts and gardens. 

We lunched again with all the Embassy, and then I 
went to see what was happening to the maids. I had 
left them in such a dejected condition on the landing 
when I went out. They couldn't get hold of any ser- 
vant (couldn't make them understand when they did), 
couldn't get my boots or travelling skirt, or hot water, 
or anything, in fact. The hotel is full of people, all 
starting this afternoon, and there is a fine confusion, but 
they really must learn to get along without all modern 
conveniences. 



26 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

Entre Varsovie et Moscou, 
en wagon, Samedi soir, 19. 

I will try and write a little, Dear, while we are stop- 
ping at Smolensk for tea. It is rather difficult when we 
are moving (though we go slowly) as you will see by the 
writing, as the train shakes a great deal. As soon as it 
stops we all tumble out, are received by railway officials 
in uniform, and conveyed to a private room decorated 
with greens and flags, where most elaborate repasts are 
provided. We got off from Varsovie yesterday most 
comfortably about 4 o'clock. Various officials, our Con- 
sul Berard, were at the station to see us off, and an 
engineer of the company, who goes with us to Moscow 
to interpret and look after us generally. The train is 
most luxurious — for W. and me one long saloon car- 
riage lined with grey satin, and with every variety of 
easy chair, sofa, table, writing-table, lamp, etc. Flow- 
ers on one of the tables and maps of the route on an- 
other. Communicating with it and directly behind are 
two bedrooms for us — mine is capitonne in blue satin, 
a very good-sized bed, glass, chairs, table, etc., also a 
dressing-room with every modern convenience. W.'s is 
grey satin, equally comfortable, with dressing-room, bath, 
etc. — behind these again a coupe for the maids — then a 
long carriage for the rest of the Mission with chairs, 
tables, etc, and small coupes. The engineer showed us 
all the arrangements, hoped we were satisfied, and also 
told us that two employes would be stationed at each 
end of our carriage always for whatever we might want. 

We got off fairly punctually. I wonder if I shall ever 
see Varsovie again. We stopped somewhere about 
5.30, and found a charming little tea waiting for us in a 
private room, served of course in glasses with pieces of 



i88 3 ] EN ROUTE TO MOSCOW 27 

lemon, and excellent rolls and cakes. There we fra- 
ternized with the Dutch Mission, who are also on the 
train. M. Schimmelpenninck, a tall, stylish-looking man, 
with his son and gendre. The young men had recog- 
nized W., having seen him at the Congres de Berlin; so 
they recalled themselves, and we made friends. We 
agreed to take all our meals together, and as apparently 
we shall have about 6 in the day we shall probably see a 
good deal of each other. 

We had rather a pleasant evening, dined (very well) 
at Brest, always the same ceremonial; and after dinner 
some of the gentlemen came and paid us visits. We 
talked of course about "La Grande Armee" and Napo- 
leon's campaigns, as we are passing over the same ground 
that they followed. The two moujiks at the doors are 
most attentive and intelligent; as soon as they hear any 
noise in our carriage, opening or shutting a window, or 
anything falling (some of the heavy books slipped off a 
table just now), they seem to divine it, and appear in- 
stantly and ask, I suppose, what we want. We have no 
means of communication, but they evidently understand. 

I was very comfortable last night in my little blue 
room, and had been sleeping quietly, when I seemed to 
divine that someone had come in. I didn't stir, and 
half opened my eyes, and for a moment was rather 
startled. The lamp, shaded, was burning, and in came 
one of the moujiks quite quietly. He moved very 
softly about the room, rather an appalling figure, with 
his high boots, fur cap, and curious half-savage face 
(gentle too), touched door and windows, fussed over the 
lamp, drew the curtain of the dressing-room a little 
closer to keep out any draught (didn't come up to the 
bed), and went out again just as quietly. It was a 
curious experience, flying through the darkness of the 



28 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE TMay 

night, and wakening to see that strange figure prowling 
about. 

About 7, I think, in the morning he reappeared, this 
time standing at the door, and making many perfectly 
unintelligible remarks. It was so evident I didn't under- 
stand that he smiled, made a despairing gesture with his 
hand, and disappeared. As I was quite sure he would 
come back I got up and fastened the door. In a few 
moments I heard a colloquy outside, and then the voice 
of the engineer asking when I would like my maid and 
my tea — also saying they would stop in about an hour 
for early breakfast, and that mine and the Ambassador's 
would be brought to our carriage. 

I asked to have the maid at once — so Adelaide ap- 
peared with hot water and a cup of tea, and I dressed 
as comfortably as if I was in my dressing-room at the 
Rue Dumont d'Urville. . As soon as I was ready I went 
into the big carriage, which looked very nice and clean, 
had been swept and dusted, window-panes washed (Ade- 
laide saw the men doing it) ; a very nice little break- 
fast tray was brought, tea, every variety of good little 
rolls, and some fish. We contented ourselves with the 
rolls, didn't experiment upon the fish. The table was 
close to the window — all the gentlemen came up and 
talked to us, and as usual there were quantities of people 
about. 

We have passed through most desolate country, miles 
of plains, with scarcely any traces of human habitation. 
The cottages are very few and far between — generally a 
collection of litttle wood hovels, or "isbas," as they are 
called. We go long distances without seeing houses, 
fences, gates, or even a road. At all the stations there 
are people — the big ones crowded — and at the smaller 
ones, where we hardly stop, merely slacken, peasants — 



i88 3 ] RECALLING NAPOLEON 29 

and such objects, one can hardly tell the men from the 
women; long, unkempt hair, all barefooted, and all wear- 
ing a sort of fur garment with a hole in the middle to pass 
the head through, and which falls low down to their 
knees. 

We have just had tea at Smolensk, which is very 
Russian looking, with gilded domes and pink and green 
painted roofs. The gentlemen are smoking and walking 
up and down the platform, always exciting great atten- 
tion. There are two rather pretty girls, with fair hair 
and red blouses, who are giggling and looking, and evi- 
dently wish to be remarked. 

We have gone on again now and are settled for the 
evening. The carriage looks so comfortable, curtains 
drawn, lamps lighted, flowers on the tables, and quanti- 
ties of books and maps. Sesmaisons and Corcelle have 
just been in with their maps and Napoleon's Memoirs. 
It is most interesting to follow it all. They read out bits 
here and there as we passed through some well-known 
locality. At the Beresina, I think, where the passage of 
the river was so awful — some of the men quite exhausted, 
and yet not wanting to lie down on the snow, made them- 
selves seats out of the dead bodies of their comrades. 
What an awful retreat! 

We have crossed the Beresina, where we saw a long 
procession of wood rafts. They are of the most primi- 
tive description — long logs lashed together, and in the 
middle a sort of cabin or hovel, where the women and 
children live. They were floating slowly down with the 
tide as we passed, and singing a sort of sad, monotonous 
chaunt, which sounded weird and pathetic, but impres- 
sionnant. They say all the Russian National songs have 
that undercurrent of sadness. 

Our dinner to-night was very gay. Schimmelpenninck 



30 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

is most attractive. We have become great friends — I 
have even confided to him where my jewels are, as he 
thought I had left a bag in one of the stations, and 
was convinced it held my diamonds. I told him what 
dress I was going to wear at the Coronation, also my 
difficulty in finding out what the French Court dress 
was. The Empress never wore a regular Court train 
— her presentations in the Tuileries were always in the 
evening, in ordinary ball dress. I didn't think Queen 
Marie Amelie's would have been very pretty, so we 
concocted a Court dress from pictures, other people's 
souvenirs, etc. 

I was glad to walk up and down a little — one gets 
cramped sitting so long, even with our outings for food, 
which are frequent. The tea is extremely good always, 
a sort of greenish flavour, but very delicate, and I should 
think very strong. Pontecoulant showed me Monsieur 
Philippe in the distance, talking and gesticulating, evi- 
dently considering himself a most important feature oi 
the Mission — also the detective, who looks like an ami- 
able well-to-do bourgeois travelling for his pleasure, until 
you meet his eyes, and there is a quick, keen look which 
tells you he is very much on the alert. He has again 
just given W. the pleasing piece of information that all 
the well-known Nihilist leaders will be at Moscow. 

Hubert came up and says the horses are quite well — 
their rest at Berlin did them good. He is very much 
impressed with the absolute solitude of the country — 
"pas de villages — pas de barrieres, pas meme de chem- 
ins." We have also a telegram from M. Lhermite saying 
the house is quite in order, he and his cooks and attend- 
ants installed, and he will have breakfast ready for us to- 
morrow morning. We arrive about 8. We must be ready 
early, as they say the approach to Moscow is very fine. 



i88 3 ] APPROACHING MOSCOW 31 

It stands low in a plain, but one sees the gilt domes and 
coloured steeples from a great distance. 

Our engineer tells us the railway officials are out of 
their minds. He says the special envoys — Princes par- 
ticularly — change their minds and their routes all the 
time. They all have special trains, and the confusion 
will be something awful. The Hessian Prince is just 
ahead of us. We haven't crossed many trains, and yet 
there must be frequent communication between Varsovie 
and Moscow. 

I still feel rather in a dream, but not tired. I must 
stop now as it is nearly eleven — my next letter will be 
from Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, Moscow. Rich- 
ard came in just now, and we have been talking over our 
future — Russia is a "terra incognita" to all of us. It has 
been certainly most novel and interesting so far. Just 
now we stopped for a few moments at a little station, 
quite alive with people and lights, as of course trains 
are going all night. The people look so different — 
generally fair, with flat features, and a repressed look, as 
if they had always been kept down. 

This long effusion will go early to-morrow morning, 
as they send off a valise at once from Moscow. 

To H. L. K. 

Ambassade de France, Moscow, 

Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, 

Monday, May 21st, 1883. 

We arrived quite safely and comfortably yesterday 
morning — 34 people, counting servants, policemen, etc. 
I hadn't time to write, but you will have had the Havas 
telegram announcing our arrival. I am writing in my 
little boudoir, which looks on a large, square, light court- 



32 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

yard, and I wish you could see the wild confusion that 
reigns there. Quantities of boxes and "ballots" of every 
description. Mdme. Hubert, with a veil tied over her 
head, struggling to get at some of my trunks, which are 
all marked with an enormous M. K. W. in white letters 
(a private mark, so as not to confound them with the 
general mark of the Mission). Leroy, Hubert, and 
Pontecoulant trying to get the big carriage cases opened 
(they look like small houses). Sesmaisons and Calmon 
fussing over their saddles, which they apparently had got 
without much difficulty — quantities of Russian helpers 
working, talking, but not loud, nor yelling to each other. 
How anything will ever come out of all that chaos I don't 
know. 

However, I must begin at the beginning. We got 
here about 8.30 yesterday morning. We were all up 
early, as the country grew more interesting as we ap- 
proached Moscow. We had a confused vision of gilt 
domes, high coloured steeples, etc., but nothing stood 
out very distinctly. There was a fine confusion at the sta- 
tion — quantities of officials, all in uniform, detachments 
of soldiers, red carpets, etc. We were not received 
officially, not being Princes. The Mission only exists 
here after they have presented their lettres de creance. 
We found our consul, Lagrene, waiting for us, several 
members of the French Colony, and Lhermite. We 
drove off at once to our Ambassade. The main street, 
Tverskaya, looked very gay with quantities of flags and 
draperies in every direction, and even at that time in the 
morning a great many people. Our house looks well — ■ 
the entrance isn't bad, and the staircase marble, hand- 
some. I hardly looked at the reception-rooms, as I was 
anxious to get to mine. Lhermite had done them very 
well, quite as I wanted, and a nice-looking woman, 



i88 3 ] MAISON KLEIN 33 

Russian of course, the femme de charge left in the house, 
was there to see if everything was right. 

I washed off a little dust, got a cup of tea, and then 
went with W. and Pontecoulant to inspect the house. 
The ballroom, "serre," and 3 drawing-rooms are nice; 
the dining-room small in comparison and low. Not a 
breath of air anywhere, double windows, hermetically 
sealed, with one pane opening in each; so the very first 
thing we did was to send for someone to take down the 
extra window, and open everything wide — the close 
smell was something awful. The femme de charge was 
astounded, and most unwilling. I think she thought we 
wished to demolish the whole establishment. W. has a 
large room opening out of the drawing-room. Ponte- 
coulant took charge of the distribution of the gentle- 
men's rooms (which wasn't easy, as they were generally 
small, and not particularly comfortable, but I must say 
they were all easy going, and not at all inclined to make 
difficulties). He chose a room down-stairs for himself 
next the Chancellerie, which he has arranged at once 
very well. The ballroom is handsome, a parquet floor, 
and yellow satin furniture; the other drawing-rooms too 
are well furnished in silk and satin. The dining-room is 
small, but the serre will make a very good fumoir where 
the gentlemen can sit and smoke. It has nice cane arm- 
chairs and tables, and will be a resource. 

I went back to my own rooms and arranged my 
affairs with the maids. There is a large room, half 
lingerie, half debarras, upstairs, with good placards and 
closets where I can put my dresses if I ever get hold of 
them. They must be unpacked at once, particularly the 
velvet dresses. Of course I am always at the window. 
My Dear, how it would amuse you, so absolutely unlike 
anything you have ever seen. 



34 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

The men seem to work well enough — they all wear 
red flannnel shirts tucked into their trousers, and high 
boots — at the present moment they are all gaping at 
the horses, who certainly do look enormous (the 
Russian horses are all small). It seems ours stand the 
cannon, and shouting, and waving flags and draperies 
very well (so the lessons in the Ecole Militaire, where 
they were taken several times after they arrived in Paris 
to have cannons and guns fired close to their heads, and 
flags waved about, did them good). 

A little Russian maid, in a red petticoat, and a blue 
handkerchief tied over her head, has just appeared, and 
I suppose will be a sort of fille de chambre. She smiles 
every time I speak to the maids, and watches every 
movement I make. I moved a fauteuil just now, and in 
an instant she had possession of it, and stood over it 
looking at me hard to see where I wanted it put. I 
daresay we shall get on very well. We breakfasted at 
12.30 all together — a very good breakfast, flowers on 
the table, and everything most correct. The gentlemen 
were amusing, all giving their experiences. Just as we 
were finishing we heard someone coming, with the clank 
of sabre, and those long, heavy spurs the Russians wear ; 
and a good-looking officer, Colonel Benckendorff, who 
was attached to our Embassy, appeared. He will never 
lose sight of us now until the ceremonies are over. 

We adjourned to the serre, and he put us au courant 
of everything. He told us the crowd and confusion at 
the Kremlin was indescribable (all the foreign Princes 
are lodged there). He had all sorts of papers, invita- 
tions, audiences, cartes de circulation, etc. W. is to 
present his lettres de creance and all the Mission en 
grande tenue at 10.30 to-day. (I am waiting now to 
see them start.) W. has just been in, looking very well, 



j&£ Jci 1^^^_ 




W ^f f/§. 




^ * 


fe^^ 


■yttu. — 


|PjL 






„ 9i 




'*>£» 





Colonel Benckendorff. 
photograph by Berganiasco, St. Petersburg. 



i88 3 J INITIAL CEREMONIES 35 

as he always does in full uniform. He wears the Danish 
Grand Cordon, he hasn't the Legion d'Honneur nor any 
Russian decoration. Two Maitres des Ceremonies, cov- 
ered with gold lace and embroideries, have arrived in 
an ordinary Russian Court coupe — they have also an 
Imperial gala carriage for the Ambassador, and two ordi- 
nary Court carriages, and they have just started, quite 
a crowd of people before the house to see them depart. 
First went two Maitres des Ceremonies, their coats cov- 
ered with gold embroidery; then W. alone in a gala car- 
riage with four horses, two footmen standing behind, two 
mounted, and an ecuyer. The rest of the Mission fol- 
lowed in two ordinary Court carriages, all with the Im- 
perial liveries, which are not very handsome, long red 
cloaks, with a sort of cocked hat. Benckendorff fol- 
lowed alone in his private carriage. 

Our big footmen figured for the first time — the four 
in their blue and silver livery were at the door when 
the Maitres des Ceremonies arrived, and Pierson with his 
chain in the anteroom. They looked very well; Lher- 
mite and our coachman saw the whole thing, and were 
not at all impressed with carriages, liveries, or horses. 
They said the carriages were absolutely shabby, the 
liveries neither well made nor well put on, and the horses 
beneath criticism. They do look extraordinarily small 
before those great heavy state carriages, rather like rats, 
as Hubert says — "Quand on verra les notres ce sera une 
surprise," for they are enormous. 

What do you think I did as soon as they had all gone? 
I had rather an inspiration — I told the maids to bring 
me my blue court train (they have unpacked some of 
the boxes, the jewels are all right, and locked up in a 
coffre-fort in W.'s room, but can't find one of Delan- 
noy's caisses; I suppose it will turn up though, as 



36 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

Pontecoulant says the compte was quite right when we 
arrived yesterday, all the boxes here). I then locked the 
door of the ballroom, stationed Pierson outside, with 
strict orders not to let anyone in, put on my train over 
my brown cloth dress, put Adelaide and Mdme. Hu- 
bert at one end of the room, and whisked backwards and 
forwards, making them low curtseys (they were rather 
embarrassed). I have never worn a train in my life, as 
you know, and I wanted to see how it would go. It 
seems perfectly cut, and follows every movement, and 
doesn't get twisted around my ankles. The maids were 
quite satisfied, and told me it worked beautifully, par- 
ticularly when I backed across the room. Madame 
Jaures, wife of Admiral Jaures, permanent French Am- 
bassador to Russia, told me such hideous tales yester- 
day, when she came to see me, of women getting 
nervous and entangled in their trains when they backed 
away from the Emperor, that I thought I had better 
take some precautions. I indulged in those antics for 
about twenty minutes, then unlocked the door, released 
Pierson, and went upstairs to the lingerie to see how 
my unpacking was getting on. The missing trunk had 
just arrived, and my two women, with the little Rus- 
sian maid, whose eyes opened wide when she saw the 
quantity of dresses being produced, and W.'s man were 
putting things to rights. 

The gentlemen got back to a late breakfast, much 
pleased with their reception. They were received in a 
small palace outside of Moscow,* as the Emperor makes 
his formal entree into the town to-morrow only. They 
found the Emperor very amiable, talking quite easily, 
saying something to everyone. He had on the Grand 
Cordon of the Legion d'Honneur. They were all pre^ 

* Petrofski. 



i88 3 ] THE UNITED STATES MISSION 37 

sented also to the Empress. W. said she was very 
gracious and charming; remembered quite well having 
seen us in Paris. We were presented to her by the 
Prince of Wales, Exhibition year. He said she recalled 
the Princess of Wales, not so tall, and had splendid eyes. 

Benckendorff stayed to breakfast, and we told him 
his place would be always ready for him at breakfast 
and dinner. The hours of standing apparently will be 
something awful. About 3.30 Mdme. Jaures came for 
me, and we went to see Lady Thornton, who is Doy- 
enne of the Corps Diplomatique, but didn't find her. 
The Jaures have just arrived themselves with all the 
Corps Diplomatique from Petersburg. They said the 
starting from there was frightfully mismanaged, not 
nearly carriages enough for the people and their lug- 
gage. The Ambassadors furious, railway officials dis- 
tracted, a second train had to be prepared which made 
a long delay, and a general uproar. The only man who 
was quite quiet and happy was Mr. Mackay (Silver King 
from California). He formed part of the United States 
Mission, had his own private car attached to the train, 
in which were Mrs. Mackay and Mr. and Mrs. Hunt 
(U. S. Minister and his wife), and was absolutely in- 
dependent. 

After leaving our cards we drove through the 
Tverskaya, the main street. There were quantities of 
people, and vehicles of every description, from the Am- 
bassadors' carriages (all with small, black Russian horses, 
a Russian coachman in caftan and flat cap, and a gor- 
geous chasseur, all gold braid, and hat with feathers, 
beside him), to the most ordinary little drosky or fiacre. 
Nigra, the Italian Ambassador, passed us going very 
quickly with the regular Russian attelage — 3 horses, one 
scarcely harnessed, galloping almost free on one side. 



38 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

All the houses are dressed with red and gold dra- 
peries, and immense tribunes put up all along the 
street, as the procession passes through it from one end 
to the other when the Emperor makes his formal en- 
trance to-morrow. There are crowds of peasants and 
country people, all the men in flannel shirts tucked into 
their trousers, and the women with a handkerchief or 
little shawl over their heads. They don't look the least 
gay, or excited, or enthusiastic; on the contrary, it is 
generally a sad face, principally fair, and blue eyes. 
They stand, apparently a compact mass, in the middle 
of the street, close up to the carriages, which can 
scarcely get on — then comes a little detachment of 
Cossacks (most curious looking, quite wild, on very 
small horses, and enormous long lances), rides into the 
crowd and over them. They make no resistance, don't 
say anything, and close up again, as soon as the carriage 
passes — and so it goes on all day. 

I was quite excited when we drove into the Krem- 
lin — it is enormous, really a city, surrounded by a great 
crenellated wall, with high towers at intervals, quantities 
of squares, courts, churches, palaces, barracks, terraces, 
etc. The view of the town from one of the terraces 
overlooking the river is splendid, but the great interest 
is the Kremlin itself. Numbers of gilt domes, pink and 
green roofs, and steeples. It seemed to me that pink 
predominated, or was it merely the rose flush of the 
sunset which gave a beautiful colour to everything. We 
saw of course the great bell, and the tower of Ivan the 
Terrible (from where they told us he surveyed massacres 
of hundreds of his soldiers), everywhere a hurrying, busy 
crowd (though always quiet). 

Thanks to our "Carte de Circulation" we pass every- 
where, though stopped at every moment. We crossed, 



i88 3 ] A PRELIMINARY VISIT 39 

among other things, a procession of servants, and minor 
court officials, with quantities of silver dishes, flagons, 
etc., some great swell's dinner being sent from the Im- 
perial Palace. We went from one great square to an- 
other, stopping at the Palace where all the fetes are to 
be. There we found one or two Court officials whom 
Mdme. Jaures knew, and they showed us as much as 
they could, but everybody is "sur les dents," and nothing 
ready; and in spite of all the precautions one feels that 
there is a strong undercurrent of nervousness. We 
went to the Church de 1'Assomption, where the Coro- 
nation is to take place. There too we found officials, 
who showed us our places, and exactly where the Court 
would be. The church is small, with a great deal of 
gilding and painting. All the tribunes are ready, and 
what we shall feel like when the ceremony is over I 
am sure I don't know. It will last about three hours 
and a half, and we stand all the time. There is not a 
vestige of a seat in the Tribune Diplomatique — merely 
a sort of rail or "barre d'appui" where one can lean back 
a little. 

We lingered a little on the terrace overlooking the 
river where there is a fine view of the town, and came 
out by the Porte St. Sauveur, where everyone, Em- 
peror and peasant, uncovers. I was glad to get home 
and rest a little before dinner, but I have had a delight- 
ful afternoon. 

I will finish this evening, as the bag goes to-morrow. 
We had a pleasant dinner, our personnel only, and 
Colonel Benckendorff, who told us all we had to do 
these days. The day of the Coronation we meet at the 
German Embassy (General Schweinitz, who married 
Anna Jay, is Doyen of the Corps Diplomatique), and 
go all together to the Kremlin. The hour of rendez- 



40 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

vous is 8 there, and as it is quite far off, and the gala 
carriages go on a walk, we must leave here at 7, and 
get up at Heaven knows what hour. What do you 
think we will look like in full Court dress at that hour 
in the morning? Our dinner was very good — wines, 
fruit, etc. W. complimented Lhermite. 

To-morrow we start at 11 for the Palace of Prince 
Dolgourouky, Governor of Moscow, from where we see 
the Emperor pass on his way to the Kremlin. It is 
not far away, but the streets are so barricaded and shut 
up that we must make a long detour. The most strin- 
gent measures are taken, all windows closed, no canes 
nor umbrellas allowed, and a triple line of troops all 
along the route. The maids are much excited. They 
have places in one of the Tribunes, and M. Lhermite is 
going to escort them. In some marvellous way they 
have been able to communicate with the Russian maids, 
and have given me various pieces of information. I 
have left the gentlemen all smoking in the serre, except 
W., who retired to his own quarters, as he had some 
despatches to write. He has had a long talk with 
Jaures this afternoon, and has also seen Sir Edward 
Thornton, British Ambassador. The house is quite 
quiet — the court-yard asleep, as no carriages or horses 
have been out to-night. We have two ordinary Russian 
landaus, with those fast little horses, for our every-day 
outings, as the big coupe d'Orsay only goes out on 
state occasions. 

The detective has made his report, and says the Nihil- 
ists will do nothing to-morrow — perhaps the night of 
the gala at the Opera. It is curious to live in such a 
highly charged atmosphere, and yet I am less nervous 
— I wonder why — the excitement I suppose of the whole 
thing. Well, Good-night, Dear; I would say it in 



i88 3 ] OUT-OF-DOOR SCENES 41 

Russian if I could, but so far all I have learnt is "Tchai," 
which means tea, and "Karosch," which seems to be 
an exclamation of delighted admiration. The little 
maid says it every time I appear in a new garment. 

To H. L. K. 

Ambassade de France a Moscou, 

Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, 

Mardi, May 2 2d, 1883. 

How shall I ever begin to describe to you, Dear, the 
wonderful life we are leading. Everything is unlike any- 
thing I have ever seen. I suppose it is the beginning 
of the real far-off East. This morning I am sitting at 
the window reading and writing, and looking out into 
the court-yard, which is a never-failing interest — such 
quantities of people always there. The first thing I 
hear in the morning is Pontecoulant's voice. He is 
there every day at eight o'clock, conferring with Leroy 
and Hubert, examining the horses and carriages, decid- 
ing which ones are to be used, and giving orders for the 
day. 

Then arrive the two Russian landaus which go all 
day, and very different they look from our beautiful 
equipages and big important servants. Then comes 
Lhermite, rattling off, in a low pony cart, with the boy 
from the Consulate along-side of him. He goes to 
market every day, and nearly has a fit because he can't 
talk himself, and he knows they are all lying, and steal- 
ing, and imposing upon him generally. In one corner 
there is a group of little Russian horses tied to the stable 
doors, with Russian soldiers fussing over them. They 
have been sent from one of the cavalry barracks for the 
gentlemen to ride. 



42 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

In every direction men are cleaning carriages, saddles, 
harness, liveries; and with such little noise — they are 
extraordinarily quiet. 

May 22d, 5.30. 

We have just got back from the Governor's palace; 
and to-night the Emperor is safe in the Kremlin. 

It was a marvellous day. We started (the whole 
Mission) at 10.30 this morning, W. and I alone in the 
d'Orsay, which looked very handsome. It is dark blue 
with white stripes, like all our carriages, and lined with 
blue satin of rather a lighter shade. The men were 
in demi-gala, blue plush breeches, white silk stockings, 
and high hats (not tricornes), with silver bands and 
cords. Thornton, the English coachman, looked very 
smart, and handled his big black horses perfectly. The 
gentlemen told us he used very strong language when 
he got back to the stables over the abomination of the 
Moscow pavement. We were preceded as usual by 
Richard and Benckendorff in a light carriage. I wore 
one of Philippe's dresses, brown gauze embroidered in 
velvet flowers, all the front ecru lace, and an ecru straw 
bonnet, with a vieux rose velvet crown. 

I was much amused while I was dressing to hear vari- 
ous members of the party in the lingerie, "Madame, 
voulez-vous me coudre un bouton," "les plumes de mon 
chapeau ne tiennent pas," etc., even Thornton came in 
to have his lace cravate tied. We were a long time get- 
ting to Prince Dolgourouky's palace; not that it is far 
away, but the streets are barricaded in every direction, 
however I didn't mind — the crowd was so interesting, 
packed tight; they had been standing for hours, they 
told us, such pale, patient faces, but so »»joyous; no 
jokes, nor bits of songs, nor good-natured scuffling; so 



i88 3 3 AT THE GOVERNOR'S PALACE 43 

unlike our Paris crowd on a great fete day, laughing and 
chaffing, and commenting freely on everything; and 
certainly very much unlike the American-Irish crowd 
at home in New York, on the 4th of July or St. Patrick's 
day. I remember quite well putting boxes of fire- 
crackers in a tin pail to frighten the horses, and throw- 
ing numerous little petards under people's feet, but no 
one seemed to mind. Fancy the effect of a pailful of 
fire-crackers exploding in any part of Moscow to-day. 
The tribunes covered with red cloth, or red and gold, 
crammed; and armies of soldiers, mounted and on foot, 
in every direction; and yet we were only in the side 
streets. The real crowd was in the Tverskaya where 
the cortege was to pass. 

When we finally arrived we were received by the 
Governor's two nieces, Madame Mansouroff and Prin- 
cess Obolenski. The Prince, like all the other Rus- 
sian noblemen, took part in the cortege. All our col- 
leagues were there, but the Due de Montpensier was 
the only special envoy. All the other foreign Princes 
were riding with the Emperor's suite. It was almost a 
female gathering, though of course all the men of the 
Corps Diplomatique were there. We waited some little 
time in the large drawing-room, where many presenta- 
tions were made; and then had a very handsome break- 
fast, people talking easily, but the Russians visibly 
nervous and preoccupied. As soon as it was over we 
went out on the balconies, where we remained until the 
cortege had passed. They brought us tea at intervals, 
but I never stirred from my chair until the end. 

It was a beautiful sight as we looked down — as far 
as one could see, right and left, flags, draperies, prin- 
cipally red and gold, green wreaths, flowers and uni- 
forms — the crowd of people well kept back behind a 



44 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

triple row of soldiers, the middle of the street perfectly 
clear, always a distant sound of bells, trumpets, and 
music. A salute of cannon was to let us know when 
the Emperor left Petrofski, the small palace just outside 
the walls where he has been all these days. As the time 
drew near one felt the anxiety of the Russians, and 
when the first coup sounded, all of them in the Palace 
and in the street crossed themselves. As the procession 
drew near the tension was intense. The Governor's Pal- 
ace is about half way between the gate by which the 
Emperor entered and the Kremlin. He had all that 
long street to follow at a foot's pace. As soon as he 
entered the Kremlin another cannon would tell his 
people he was safe inside. 

At last the head of the gorgeous procession appeared. 
It was magnificent, but I can't begin to tell you the 
details. I don't even remember all I saw, but you will 
read it all in the papers, as of course all their corre- 
spondents are here. There were quantities of troops of 
all descriptions, the splendid chevaliers-gardes looked 
very imposing with their white tunics and silver cui- 
rasses; both horses and men enormous. What I liked 
best were the red Cossacks (even their long lances red). 
They look perfectly wild and uncivilized and their little 
horses equally so, prancing and plunging all the time. 

The most interesting thing to me was the deputations 
from all the provinces of this vast Empire — Kirghis, 
Moguls, Tartars, Kalmucks, etc. There was a magnifi- 
cent chief from the Caucase, all in white, with jewelled 
sword and high cap (even from where we were, so high 
above the crowd, we saw the flash of the diamonds); 
the Khan of Khiva, and the Emir of Bokhara, both with 
high fur caps, also with jewels on cap and belt. A young 
fellow, cousin I think of Prince Dolgourouky, came 



i88 3 ] EMPEROR ALEXANDER III. 45 

and stood near me, and told me as well as he could who 
the most important people were. Bells going all the 
time (and the Moscow bells have a deep, beautiful 
sound), music, the steady tramp of soldiers, and the 
curious, dull noise of a great crowd of people. 

Then a break in the troops, and a long procession of 
gala court carriages passed, with six horses and six run- 
ners, a man to each horse, with all the grands-maitres 
and high officials of the Court, each man covered with 
gold lace and embroidery, and holding his staff of office, 
white with a jewel at the top. After that more troops, 
the Emperor's body-guard, and then the Emperor him- 
self. He was in full uniform, riding quite alone in front 
on his little white horse which he had ridden in the Turk- 
ish campaign. He looked quite composed and smiling, 
not a trace of nervousness (perhaps a little pale), re- 
turned all the salutations most graciously, and looked 
up, bowed and smiled to our balcony. A little distance 
behind him rode his two sons, and close up to him on 
the left rode the Duke of Edinburgh in red; any bomb 
thrown at the Emperor must have killed the English 
Prince. 

Then followed a long suite of Princes — some of their 
uniforms, Austrian, Greek, and Montenegrian standing 
out well. From that moment there was almost silence 
on the balcony; as the Emperor disappeared again all 
crossed themselves, and everyone waited for the wel- 
come sound from the Kremlin. 

After a long interval, always troops passing, came the 
Empress. She was with her daughter, the little Grand 
Duchess Xenia, both in Russian dress. The carriage 
was shut, a coupe, but half glass, so we saw them per- 
fectly, and the high head-dress (Kakoshnik) and white 
veil, spangled with silver was very becoming. The car- 



46 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

riage was very handsome, all gold and paintings; six 
white horses led, and running footmen. The Empress 
and her daughter were seated side by side, and on a 
curious sort of outside seat, on one side of the coupe, 
was a page, dressed in red and yellow, a sort of cloth of 
gold, with high feathers in his cap. The Empress looked 
grave and very pale, but she smiled and bowed all the 
time. It must have been an awful day for her, for she 
was so far behind the Emperor, and such masses of 
troops in between, that he might have been assassinated 
easily, she knowing nothing of it. 

There was again a great sound of bells and music when 
the Empress passed, all the people crossing themselves, 
but the great interest of course was far ahead with the 
Emperor. A great procession of Court carriages fol- 
lowed with all the Princesses, Grandes-Maitresses, etc., 
and endless troops still, but no one paid much attention; 
every ear was strained to hear the first sound from the 
Kremlin. When the cannon boomed out the effect was 
indescribable. All the Russians embraced each other, 
some with tears running down their cheeks, everybody 
shook hands with everybody, and for a moment the emo- 
tion was contagious — I felt rather a choke in my throat. 
The extraordinary reaction showed what the tension had 
been. 

After rather a whirl of felicitations we went into the 
drawing-room for a few minutes, had tea (of course), and 
I talked to some of the people whom I had not seen be- 
fore. Montpensier came up, and was very civil and nice. 
He is here as a Spanish Prince. He told me he had been 
frightfully nervous for the Emperor. They all knew 
that so many Nihilists were about — he added, "II etait 
superbe, leur Empereur, si crane!" 

We had to wait a few moments for the carriage and 



x88 3 ] AN EVENING DRIVE 47 

got home about 5, having been standing a long time. 
We were almost as long getting back to the Embassy as 
we were coming. There was a dense crowd everywhere, 
and the same little detachments of Cossacks galloping 
hard into the midst of the people, and apparently doing 
no harm to anyone. 

I will finish now before going to bed — happily all our 
dissipations finish early. We dined quietly with only 
our own Embassy and Benckendorff, and then drove 
about for an hour or so looking at the illuminations, 
which were not very wonderful. We met all our col- 
leagues doing the same thing. W. has just had his re- 
port from the detective. He said all the Nihilists were 
scattered along the route to-day, but evidently had no 
intention of doing anything. It seems curious they 
should be allowed to remain, as of course the Russian 
police know them quite as well as our man does. 

I have just had a notice that the Empress will receive 
me to-morrow. I will try and write a few lines always 
late before going to bed, and while the whole thing is 
still fresh in my memory. If this letter is slightly inco- 
herent it is because I have had so many interruptions. 
The maids can hardly undress me, they are so anxious to 
tell me all they have seen. It certainly was a magnifi- 
cent sight to-day, and the fears for the Emperor gave 
such a dramatic note to the whole thing. My eyes are 
rather tired, looking so hard, I suppose. 

Wednesday, May 23d. 
Well, Dear, I have had my audience. It was most in- 
teresting. I started at 11 o'clock in the gala carriage, 
Hubert driving me, as he wanted to go once to the 
Kremlin with the carriage before the day of the Corona- 
tion. It seems there is a slight rise in the road just as 



48 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

one gets to the gate, which is also narrow. I wore the 
blue brocade with bunches of cherries, the front of 
mousse velvet, and a light blue crepe bonnet, neither 
gloves nor veil. Benckendorff and Richard, as "officer 
de service," went ahead in a small carriage. Bencken- 
dorff said I must have one of my own Embassy, and 
Richard thought it would amuse him to come. W. 
rather demurred — was afraid we wouldn't be serious 
enough, but we promised him to be absolutely dignes. 
Do you remember at the first official reception at the 
Instruction Publique he never would let you and Pau- 
line stand behind me — he was afraid we would make un- 
seemly jokes, or laugh at some of the dresses. 

Our progress to the Kremlin was slow. The carriage 
is heavy, goes always at a foot's pace, and has a swinging 
motion which is very disagreeable. I felt rather shy, 
sitting up there alone, as of course there is a great deal 
of glass, so that I was much "en evidence." Every- 
body looked, and the people in the street crowded close 
up to the carriage. We found grand preparations when 
we got to the Palace — the great staircase covered with 
a red cloth, and every variety of chamberlain, page, 
usher, and officer on the stairs and at the door. Benck- 
endorff and Richard helped me out of my carriage, 
and Richard's impulse was to give me his arm to go 
upstairs, but he was waved back imperatively, and a 
magnificent gentleman in a velvet coat, all lace and em- 
broidery, advanced, and conducted me up the grand 
staircase, always a little behind me. I passed through a 
hedge of uniforms and costumes. When we came to 
the landing where there was a piquet of soldiers my 
attendant said — "La France," and they presented 
arms. 

At the top of the staircase, at the door of the first of 



i88 3 ] IN THE KREMLIN 49 

a long enfilade of salons, I was handed over, with a very 
low bow, from my first gentleman to another of the same 
description, equally all gold lace, and embroidery; and 
so I passed through all the rooms, always meeting a 
new chamberlain in each one. The rooms are large and 
high, with vaulted roofs like a cathedral, little or no 
furniture (I believe the Russian Court never sits down 
except at meals). We made a halt in one of the salons, 
where we found several maids of honour of the Empress, 
who were presented to me. They were all dressed much 
alike in long, light dresses, and wore their badge — the 
Empress's chiffre in diamonds on a blue ribbon. While 
I was talking to them a procession of diplomats and 
special envoys passed through the room. They had just 
been received by the Empress. 

Presently appeared Prince Galitzin — Grand Maitre 
des Ceremonies, attired in red velvet and lace, and em- 
broidery, who said, "Sa Majeste sera bientot prete." I 
continued my progress with the same ceremonial, passed 
through the salle du trone, which is handsome, white 
and gold; and came to a standstill in the next salon, evi- 
dently the ante-chamber of the room where I was to be 
received, as the two colossal negroes who always ac- 
company the Emperor and Empress were standing at the 
door. They were dressed in a sort of Asiatic costume, 
cashmeres, turbans, scimitars, etc. I was received by the 
Princess Kotchoubey and Count Pahlen, Arch Grand 
Maitre des Ceremonies. The Princess K. is the mother 
of Princess Lise Troubetzkoi (whom you will remember 
in Paris as having a salon the first days of the Republic 
where political men of all opinions assembled — Thiers 
was her great friend). She was a little old lady, dressed 
entirely in white, with a jewel low on her forehead. 
Count Pahlen was dressed in blue velvet and embroidery, 



SO LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

and carried his staff of office, white, with a large sapphire 
on the top. 

We talked a few minutes, when apparently there came 
a signal from the Empress. The doors flew open, and 
the Princess advanced to the threshold, making a 
beautiful curtsey (I am sure mine was not half so good), 
she seemed to go straight down to the ground, said — 
"J'ai l'honneur d'annoncer l'Ambassadrice de France." 
She then withdrew to one side — I made a curtsey at 
the door, which was instantly shut, another, a little far- 
ther on (the regulation is 3), but hadn't time for my 
third, as the Empress, who was standing in the middle 
of the room, advanced a few steps, shook hands and 
begged me to sit down. I hadn't seen her for some 
years, since she came to Paris with her husband, then 
Grand Duke Heritier (his father was still alive), and I 
didn't find her changed. She recalls the Princess of 
Wales, but is not so tall; has beautiful dark eyes, and a 
very gracious manner. She was dressed almost as I 
was, but in a different color, yellow brocade with 
bunches of plums, splendid lace in front, and a beautiful 
pearl necklace, three rows of large stones (my one row 
of fairly large ones was nowhere). I think I stayed 
about 20 minutes. 

We talked easily enough. She said the long day yes- 
terday had been very fatiguing, the going at a foot's 
pace all that long distance with the peculiar swinging 
motion of the heavy gala carriage had tired her very 
much; also the constant bowing right and left, and the 
quantities of flags and draperies waving under her eyes. 
She didn't say anything about being nervous, so of 
course I didn't. She gave me the impression of having 
extraordinary self-control. I asked her what the little 
Grand Duchess thought of it all. She said that she 



i88 3 ] AUDIENCE WITH THE EMPRESS 51 

really didn't know — that she didn't speak, but looked at 
everything and bowed to all the people exactly as she 
did. 

She said the day of the sacre would be very long and 
tiring, particularly beginning so early in the morning; 
that she was very matinale, quite accustomed to getting 
up early — was I ? "Fairly — but I hadn't often been up 
and dressed in full dress and diamonds at seven in the 
morning." "You would prefer a ceremony by candle- 
light." "I think we should all look better at 9 o'clock 
in the evening." She laughed, and then we talked a 
little; Paris, chiffons, etc. She said some of her dresses 
had come from Philippe. We talked a little about Mos- 
cow and the Kremlin. She asked me what I had seen. 
When I spoke of the church and the tribunes for the 
Corps Diplomatique with no seats, and a very long 
ceremony, she was quite indifferent; evidently didn't 
think it was of the slightest consequence whether we 
were tired or not; and I don't suppose it is. 

When she congedied me the door flew open (she evi- 
dently had a bell under her chair which she touched with 
her feet); she shook hands, and walked immediately to 
a door at the other end of the room; so I didn't have to 
back out all the way. Princess Kotchoubey and Count 
Pahlen were waiting for me. The Princess said, "Sa 
Majeste vous a garde bien longtemps, Madame l'Am- 
bassadrice. J'espere que vous avez ete contente." Pah- 
len also made me a polite phrase. They both accom- 
panied me across the room, and then the door opened, 
and another chamberlain took possession of me. Just 
as we got to the door the Princess was saying something 
about her daughter "devenue absolument une Parisi- 
enne," when it opened; she stopped short in the middle 
of her phrase, and made me a little curtsey — her func- 



52 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

tion was over once I passed into the other room. It 
was too funny. 

I was conducted through all the rooms and down the 
great staircase with the same ceremony. I found Rich- 
ard waiting in one of the big rooms, with the "Dames 
du portrait," but this time he didn't venture to offer 
his arm to the Ambassadress, and followed with Benck- 
endorff at a respectful distance. 

I found my carriage surrounded by an admiring crowd. 
The horses are handsome and enormous, particularly 
here where the race is small, also the French gala liveries 
are unlike anything else. Hubert, my own coachman, 
sits up so straight and pompous on his box, and looks 
so correct I hardly know him. The movement of the 
gala carriage is something awful, makes me really ill. 

May 23d, 10 o'clock. 

We have had a quiet evening — some of the gentle- 
men have gone off to hear the famous Bohemiennes in 
one of the public gardens. They have been leaving 
cards all day on the special envoys, Princes, etc. W. 
and Pontecoulant are having a conference, and I have 
got into my tea-gown, and am reading a little, writing 
a little, and being generally lazy. W. and I also did a 
round of visits this afternoon. 

As naturally none of our servants know either a word 
of Russian, or the streets of Moscow, we took with us 
the little polygot youth from the Consulate, who knows 
equally well French, Russian, and German. We gave 
him our list, and he went ahead in a drosky. 

We found no one but the Princess Obolenski, who 
spoke at once about the Emperor's entree; said no one 
could imagine the relief it was to all of them to know 
that he was actually safe in the Kremlin. They had evi- 



i88 3 ] THE NIHILISTS 53 

dently all dreaded that day, and of course notwithstand- 
ing all the precautions a bomb could have been thrown. 
The thrower, par exemple, would have been torn to pieces 
by the crowd ; but what makes the strength of the Nihil- 
ists is that they all count their lives as nothing in what 
they consider the great cause. 

How hideous the life of the Emperor and the Empress 
must be. They say they find letters on their tables, in 
their carriages, coming from no one knows where, tell- 
ing them of all the horrors in store for them and their 
children. 

To H. L. K. 

Ambassade de France, a Moscou, 
Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, 
Thursday, 24 Mai, 1883. 

I am having a quiet morning. We have no particu- 
lar function to-day. Madame Jaures is coming to get 
me after breakfast, and we are going to do a little sight- 
seeing. The first thing I hear in the morning always is 
Pontecoulant's voice in the court talking to Leroy and 
Hubert, and examining the horses. The pair we had 
in the gala carriage yesterday went beautifully. Hu- 
bert was rather nervous, as there is a steep little bit 
just as one passes through the gates of the Kremlin — 
it is also narrow, and those big, unwieldy carriages are 
not easily handled. The pavement is so rough that I 
was actually a little sick yesterday after I came in. 

I was called off by a visit from Prince Orloff (Russian 
Ambassador in France). He comes almost every day, 
and is much interested in all our doings — said the car- 
riage and general style of everything was much admired 
yesterday. About two Madame Jaures came, and we 



54 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

started off sight-seeing. The admiral, Jaures, and one or 
two of the young men met us at the Kremlin, and we 
went over the two palaces — new and old. The old one 
is most curious; small, dark, low rooms, vaulted ceilings, 
all most elaborately ornamented in Byzantine style; a 
small steep, twisting staircase ; large porcelain stoves, and 
absolutely uncomfortable. We saw the dining-room 
where the Emperor and Empress will dine in state the 
day of the Coronation. The new palace is quite differ- 
ent — high, light, large rooms, white, which must look 
beautiful at night lighted by thousands of wax candles. 
In the great ballroom the two Throne chairs are on 
a gold dais with great curtains of purple velvet and er- 
mine — very royal looking. 

(I wonder if the sight of all this splendour will destroy 
my mental equilibrium — I assure you I felt rather like 
a queen myself yesterday, seated up alone in the great 
gala carriage, with everybody bowing and gaping.) 
There is a splendid view over the Kremlin, the river and 
the town from all the palace windows. We went again 
to the church of the Assomption, where we found Count 
Pahlen superintending. He showed us some of the 
famous paintings — among others a Madonna with a 
black face, a splendid diamond necklace, and large sap- 
phires and emeralds disposed about her person. There 
are jewels about everywhere; on pictures, brackets, etc. 
Pahlen told me, when I was noticing them, that the 
Russian Court was famous for coloured stones, particu- 
larly emeralds and sapphires — told me to notice the 
Grand Duchess Constantine's emeralds, and the Em- 
press's sapphires. I will, if ever I get time to go into de- 
tails, but everything is on such an enormous scale here. 

He also asked me if I was accustomed to standing 
three or four hours, and if not he would suggest a pliant 



i88 3 ] SOME VISITS 55 

"dissimule sous les plis de la traine," and showed me 
with pride the rails, covered with red velvet, in our trib- 
une, which he had had put there so we should be com- 
fortable! It will really be an awful day, particularly as 
we have to begin it so early, but I suppose we shan't die 
of it. 

I came back about 4, changed my dress for something 
more elegant (the blue silk with long blue redingote 
and white lace), and started off again in the d'Orsay for 
some visits (the little boy in the drosky going in front). 
I found the Princess Radziwill in two small rooms (she 
received me in her bedroom), all she could find for her- 
self and her husband in Moscow — and that at an awful 
price (and she is Russian born). I also found Countess 
Pahlen, wife of the Grand Master, who was very smil- 
ing, and suggested that we should have an evening re- 
ception, which would be much appreciated. Of course 
we shall be delighted, and had even thought of a ball, 
but all those things had been settled in Russia before we 
left Paris. The Russian Court wished to have one ball 
only, as the Coronation functions were numerous and 
fatiguing, and that is to be at General Schweinitz's 
(Doyen of the Corps Diplomatique). 

After leaving Countess Pahlen I went again to the 
Kremlin, the d'Orsay always exciting much attention. 
I had the greatest difficulty in finding out the Duchesse 
d'Edimbourg, for whom I had to write myself down, and 
could find no servant who spoke either German, French, 
or English. The crowd and confusion was something 
awful; apparently the whole of Moscow was going 
wherever I was — Ambassadors, Generals, Chamberlains, 
maids-of-honour, servants with tea, crowding in all the 
corridors. You never saw such a sight, and just as 
many more in the court-yards — carriages, soldiers, work- 



56 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

people, carpenters, bales of stuffs, and planks for stands, 
and all in that beautiful cadre — the old gray walls looked 
so soft, and the marvellous effects of colour everywhere. 
I was well shaken up, such a pavement. I met the Due 
de Montpensier at every turn, sight-seeing too. We 
had a quiet dinner, the personnel only with Bencken- 
dorff. The gentlemen had been going all around too 
all the afternoon leaving cards. They all say the pave- 
ment is most trying. 

W. and Pontecoulant have come in late as usual for a 
last little talk. I told them what Countess Pahlen had 
said about an evening reception. W. had had the same 
idea. I think the house is large enough — the ballroom 
ought to light well, all white with yellow satin furniture. 
We must have a talk with Lhermite about flowers; he 
says there are none here, his come from Paris. 

Friday, 25 th. 

The men of the Embassy went off early, as they had 
no end of audiences with all the Grand Dukes; uncles 
and brothers of the Emperor. I walked about a little 
with Adelaide, but I didn't find that very pleasant. It 
is curious I never see a lady of any kind walking, and 
we always attract attention. It is very warm, the sun 
really powerful. I breakfasted alone in the big dining- 
room, an elaborate meal, one maitre d'hotel and two 
tall footmen waiting upon me — I was rather sorry I 
hadn't asked for tea and cold chicken in my dressing- 
room. 

At 3.30 the gentlemen all reappeared, put on their 
Austrian decorations, and we started for the recep- 
tion of the Arch Duke and Arch Duchess Albert of 
Austria. We found quantities of people, as all the Corps 
Diplomatique had been convoked. W. and I went as 



i88 3 j A DIPLOMATIC RECEPTION 57 

usual in the d'Orsay. I wore my creme voile with 
lace and embroidery, straw bonnet with creme feathers, 
lined with dark blue velvet. We waited some little time 
in a large hall or anteroom where was Count Wolken- 
stein, Austrian Ambassador, who presented all the suite 
of the Arch Duke. Then appeared the Arch Duke 
alone — said his wife was coming in a few moments. We 
had known him in Paris — he had dined with us at the 
Quai d'Orsay when W. was Foreign Minister, our Ex- 
hibition year. He is a tall, distinguished looking man. It 
was when he was dining at the Elysee one night with 
Marechal MacMahon that such a funny contre-temps 
occurred. Their dinners were always very good and 
soignes, but evidently they had not thought about the 
names of the dishes, and when we were well on with the 
dinner we suddenly realized that something was wrong. 
My neighbour said to me "Look at your menu," and 
what did I see — "Glace a la Magenta" — "Gateau Solfer- 
ino," and I forget the third thing — all battles where the 
Austrians had been beaten. I spoke to one of the house- 
hold about it afterwards who said "J'ai froid dans le 
dos en pensant a ce que le Marechal me dira." It seems 
that when he was angry the Marechal didn't mince mat- 
ters, and used most emphatic expressions. You can im- 
agine how carefully we studied the menu of our dinner 
which came two days after — "Glace a la Regence," 
"Gateau Moka," etc., nothing compromising. 

While the Arch Duke was talking there was sud- 
denly a move, and he went to meet the Arch Duchess 
who came in, crossed the room quickly, and asked us 
to follow. We did, into a smaller room, W. and I alone. 
She is very handsome, younger than he is, tall and slight, 
dressed in a black dress with a great deal of lace, a very 
long train, a handsome pearl necklace, and a high comb 



58 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

of diamonds. She said she would like to make a stay in 
Paris. After they had congedied us W. asked if he 
might present the rest of the Mission, so I returned to 
the large salon and saw various people to talk to, includ- 
ing Count Apponyi, whom I had known in Paris, where 
his father was Ambassador for years. 

We dined at home and went in the evening to a re- 
ception at M. de Giers' — Foreign Minister. The rooms 
were not large, and there were a great many people, 
I should think more foreigners and diplomatists than 
Russians. Princess Kotchoubey and Countess Pahlen 
did the honours. Quantities of people were presented 
to me — I shall never remember their names or their 
faces. I wore fraise-ecrase velvet, the front covered with 
white "point a raiguille." General Wolseley, who is here 
with the Duke of Edinburgh, was presented. He is not 
at all the real British type, small and dark, but very bright 
eyes. I also had quite a talk with my Dutch friend 
Schimmelpenninck, who assured me my toilettes were tres 
reussies, particularly the white one, this afternoon. I 
had quite a talk too with the Hunts, who are very nice. 
Both are tall and fine-looking, she always very well 
dressed. The U. S. Mission is very distinguished — they 
have Mr. and Mrs. Mackay with them, both very natu- 
ral and quiet; she of course has splendid jewels (they tell 
me her sapphires are beautiful), but she wears them 
quite simply, without any ostentation. There is also 
Admiral Baldwin, who has his ship at Cronstadt, and two 
charming young aides-de-camp, Rogers and Paul. 



i88 3 ] A DAY OF AUDIENCES 59 

To H. L. K. 

Saturday, May 26, 1883. 

Well, Dear, I am just alive, but nothing more, having 
performed 5 Grand Duchesses. The gentlemen all went 
off in full uniform at 1 1 to begin their audiences. I fol- 
lowed later alone (they always go en bande) with Rich- 
ard going in the small carriage in front as officier de ser- 
vice (which amuses us both perfectly). I wore the white 
soft silk with Valenciennes that you liked, and the flower 
hat. Benckendorff complimented me on my toilette. 
It was a long affair getting to our different Princesses. 
They are all lodged in the Kremlin, and the various pal- 
aces connect with all sorts of passages and staircases, but 
the corridors are narrow and the block something awful. 
My first audience was with the Grand Duchess Michel. 
Her husband is an uncle of the Emperor, and was for a 
long time Governor of the Caucasus. When we finally 
got to the door of the apartments I was received by 2 
Chamberlains (all gold and embroidery), who never left 
me until they deposited me in the carriage at 5 o'clock — 
I had started at 1.30. The ceremonial was always ex- 
actly the same, one or two ladies-in-waiting were in the 
room communicating with the one in which the Grand 
Duchess was waiting. They announced ''L'Ambassa- 
drice de France," I got through as many of my three reg- 
ulation curtseys as I could — I never really had time to 
make the third, as they all advanced a few steps and 
shook hands. The Grand Duchess Michel is a Baden 
Princess, tall, slight, very intelligent, simply dressed in 
black velvet, and of course a pearl necklace. She spoke 
to me in English, French, and German, but the conversa- 
tion was mostly in French. She seemed well up in 



60 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

French literature, and asked me what I thought of Zola's 
"L'Assommoir," was really surprised when I said I 
hadn't read it, nor in fact scarcely anything he wrote. She 
considered it a marvel, and couldn't understand any 
French woman not reading every word that came from 
"un des plus puissants cerveaux du siecle." She knew 
too all the pieces de theatre, and when I expressed sur- 
prise that she had had time to read so much, said her life 
in the Caucasus was so lonely — no society of any kind, 
and no resources outside of her own palace. I should 
think she was a maitresse femme. 

After leaving her I was taken in hand again by my two 
chamberlains, and walked some distance across one or 
two courts, always meeting more chamberlains escort- 
ing colleagues, principally men, all in uniform and orders, 
doing the same thing, and trying to get on as fast as 
they could. My next visit was to the Grand Duchess 
Constantine. When we got to the anteroom and small 
salon we found them full of gentlemen, who proved to be 
our Mission, who had arrived a few minutes before. That 
made a slight change of programme, as the Grand 
Duke decided to receive W. and me together with the 
Duchess — accordingly we were received first, alone, in a 
small room. The Grand Duke was standing close to the 
door; the Grand Duchess in the centre of the room. He 
is a sailor, looks very intelligent. She has been very 
handsome, carries herself beautifully, and has a splendid 
figure. He was in uniform — she in red velvet (she didn't 
have on her emeralds — I suppose we shall see them all 
to-morrow). They both talked very easily about all 
sorts of things; Greece of course and the Schuylers, of 
whom she spoke very warmly. Her daughter is the 
Queen of Greece — I hope we shall see her, as I have 
heard Gert talk so much about her. The Grand Duch- 



i88 3 ] FATIGUING CEREMONIES 61 

ess said she was tired already, and the Ceremonies haven't 
begun yet. She had received yesterday ioo ladies of 
Moscow. They came in groups of 10, and she had to 
find something to say to each one. 

As soon as the audience was over W. asked permission, 
as usual, to present the rest of the Mission. I remained 
in the outer salon talking to the ladies-in-waiting. The 
apartment is high, with a splendid view over Moscow. 
They pointed me out several churches and curious roofs 
— were much interested in all my visits and my clothes, 
supposed I had quantities of trunks. 

After that I departed again alone, and saw the Grand 
Duchess Catherine, who was very amiable, but kept me a 
few minutes only, as she had so many people to receive. 
Then I took another long walk, and up several flights of 
narrow, turning stairs (the chamberlains in front and 
Richard behind) to the Duchesse d'Oldenburg. The 
Belgian Mission was being received, so I waited in the 
outer salon, and again W. and the gentlemen arrived, 
and he and I were received together. Evidently they 
like it better when we can go together, as it saves time 
for them — and if we are tired, think what they must be. 
I went off again alone, and was received by the Grand 
Duchess Wladimir, who is charming — a German Prin- 
cess. She is young, a pretty figure, very well dressed in 
white. She looked rather delicate, having just got over 
a rather bad attack of measles. She dreads the fatigue 
very much to-morrow, and had asked the Empress if she 
might have a folding-chair, a pliant of some kind, but her 
"demande n'a pas ete accueillie favorablement. LTm- 
peratrice elle-meme sera debout tout le temps. II fau~ 
drait absolument que nous fassions comme elle." I didn't 
mention my pliant, as I am quite sure no one will notice 
to-morrow anything / do. 



62 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

That finished my audience, and I had been standing or 
walking since I left the Embassy, so I was glad to find 
the carriage, which was by no means easy. There were 
quantities at the Kremlin, and as we never by any chance 
came out at the same door by which we went in, and the 
coachman was told to follow, he naturally had some diffi- 
culty in getting it. Also it is raining hard, which com- 
plicates matters. There are carpets down to the doors, 
but so many people have passed over them that they are 
just as wet and muddy as the streets. We met all the rest 
of the Mission at the Embassy door, and then there was 
a general detente, the men all calling for their servants 
to get them out of their uniforms, and to bring beer and 
cigars. 

W. came in to tea. He looked really done up — he 
had been at it steadily since 12. There are so many 
Princes and Grand Dukes without any wives. I am 
writing in bits, but will finish as usual the last thing. We 
have had a small dinner — the other French Embassy 
(permanent), Lagrene, Consul, and Orloff. Bencken- 
dorff of course. They all went away early, as our day 
to-morrow is an awful one. 

It is pouring still, and we are rather melancholy at 
the thought of our gala carriages, and blue and silver 
liveries in a heavy rain. Just before dinner I had a visit 
from Philippe, and he made various essais with my dia- 
dem and feathers. He is to be here at six to-morrow 
morning to coiffer me. He also requested that he might 
see my dress so as to make his coiffure "harmoniser avec 
Tensemble." I wanted to see it too, so as to be sure that 
everything was right, and the flowers well sewn on. It 
is now reposing on one of the big arm-chairs in the dress- 
ing-room, covered up with a sheet. 

My eyes are shutting of themselves, so I will stop. 



i88 3 ] THE START FOR THE CORONATION 63 

Please send all my letters on to America, as I never can 
write tzvo accounts of our life here. 



To H. L. K. 

Ambassade de France a Moscou, 

Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, 

Dimanche, 27 Mai, 1883. 

I am perfectly exhausted, Dear, after the most beauti- 
ful, bewildering, exhausting day I have ever gone 
through. We got home at 4.30. I rested a little, had tea 
as usual in my boudoir with W. and Richard, and will 
write as much as I can while I am still under the impres- 
sion of all I have seen. 

I was up at 5.30, as we had to leave here at 7. Phi- 
lippe was very punctual — put on diadem and feathers 
very well. Happily it was all blue, rather dark (as my 
dress too was blue), and he remarked pleasantly, to put 
me at my ease I think, and make me feel as comfortable 
as I could at that hour of the morning, "Le bleu c'est 
le fard de Madame." He couldn't understand that I 
wouldn't let him maquiller my face — said all the Prin- 
cesses were painted — but I really couldn't go that. 

When I appeared in the drawing-room, the men of 
the Embassy were very complimentary about my dress. 
We went in our three carriages (I had the white moire 
cloak, trimmed with dark feathers over me), W. and I 
and Pontecoulant in the first gala carriage driven by 
Leroy (I wish you could have seen him, as much taken 
up with his dress as I was with mine). He stood giving 
directions to a quantity of understrappers, but never 
touching harness, nor even whip, until we appeared, then 
got on his box as we got into the carriage, settled him- 
self in a fine pose, and we started. 



64 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

The second gala carriage driven*" by Hubert (who 
looked very well) came next, and then the d'Orsay. It 
really was a very pretty cortege, and we were much 
looked at and admired, as we drove very slowly, and 
jolting very much, to the German Embassy. All our 
colleagues came up about the same time. Some of the 
gala carriages were good, the Austrian, but ours out and 
out the best. No one else had three. 

We assembled in one of the large rooms of the palace, 
and then walked through numerous rooms, galleries, and 
finally through an open court, entirely covered with a 
red carpet, and lined with soldiers and officers — every 
description of uniform. The Chevalier-Gardes, magnifi- 
cent in their white tunics, silver cuirasses and helmets. 
Happily it was fine — I don't know what we should have 
done in the rain, and also so early in the morning the 
sun was not genant (as it was later in the day). The long 
procession, the men in uniform and decorations; the 
women in full dress, feathers and diadems, was most 
effective. 

I left my cloak in the carriage, and didn't feel chilly, 
but some of the women were uncomfortable, and had 
little lace and fur tippets. We filed into the church 
(which is small), and into the Diplomatic Tribune, and 
settled ourselves quite easily — there was plenty of room. 
The effect inside was dazzling: tapers, flowers, pictures, 
jewels, quantities of women already seated, all in the 
Kakoshnik, and a general impression of red and gold in 
their costumes. All the Empress's ladies wear red vel- 
vet trains, embroidered in gold. People seemed to be 
coming in all the time. Deputations from the provinces, 
officials of Moscow, officers, chamberlains, a moving 
mass of colour. The costume of the Popes was gorgeous 
— cloth of gold with very high jewelled mitres. 



i88 3 3 ASSUMING THE CROWN 65 

We waited some time before the ceremony began, but 
there was so much to see that we didn't mind, and from 
time to time one of the officials came and stood with us 
a little, explaining who all the people were. The whole 
church was hung with red, and red carpets everywhere. 
Just in the middle there was a high estrade, covered with 
red velvet, and a great gold baldaquin with Imperial 
eagles embroidered on it. It was all surrounded by a 
gold balustrade, and on it were the two thrones. A little 
lower on the same estrade were the places of the Princes 
of the family, and the Foreign Princes. 

A little before 9 the Imperial family began to arrive. 
Almost all the Grand Duchesses in trains of drap d'ar- 
gent, bordered with sable, and magnificent jewels. Then 
there was a great sound of trumpets, and cheering out- 
side (those curious, suppressed Russian cheers), and they 
told us the Emperor and Empress were coming. They 
were preceded by an officer of the Chevalier-Gardes, with 
sabre-a-nu. The Emperor was in full uniform, with the 
blue ribbon of St. Andre. The Empress quite simple in 
white and silver, the Imperial eagles embroidered on the 
front of her dress; no diadem, no veil, nor jewels; 
her train carried by 4 pages, her hair quite simply 
done — she looked so young, quite like a school-girl. 
Then followed a glittering suite of Princes, officers, 
etc. 

The service was very long, the chanting quite fine; the 
men have beautiful, deep voices — I cared less for the in- 
toning, they all end on such a peculiar high note. I 
didn't like the looks of the Popes either — the long beards 
worried me. Of course the real interest was when the 
Emperor took the crown from the hands of the Pope 
(kneeling before him) and put it on his own head. He 
looked a magnificent figure, towering over everybody, 



66 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

as he stood there in his Imperial robes, cloth of gold 
lined with ermine, and a splendid jewelled collar. The 
crown looked high and heavy — made entirely of jewels. 

His two brothers, Grand Dukes Wladimir and Alexis, 
put on his robes. The Grand Duke Wladimir always 
stands close behind his brother. He has a stern, keen 
face. He would be the Regent if anything should hap- 
pen to the Emperor, and I think his would be an iron 
rule. 

As soon as the Emperor was crowned the Empress 
left her seat, came to the middle of the platform, made 
a deep curtsey to the Emperor, and knelt. Her court 
ladies then gathered around her, and put on the Imperial 
mantle, also in cloth of gold lined with ermine, and the 
same jewelled collar like the Emperor's. When she was 
dressed, the Emperor, stooping low over her, put on her 
crown, a small one made entirely in diamonds, raised her 
and kissed her. As she stood a moment she almost stag- 
gered back under the weight of the mantle — the 4 pages 
could hardly hold it. 

Then the long procession of Princes and Princesses 
left their seats on the estrade, and passed before the 
Sovereigns. First came his two brothers, Wladimir and 
Alexis. They kissed the Emperor, then bent low before 
the Empress, kissing her hand. She kissed them each 
on the forehead. Next came the two young Princes, in 
uniform like their father, wearing also the blue ribbon 
of St. Andre, and the little Grand Duchess (aged 10) 
in a short white dress, but the Kakoshnik. 

It was a pretty sight to see the children bowing and 
curtseying low to their parents. Some of the ladies' 
curtseys were wonderful — the Arch Duchess Charles 
Louis extraordinarily graceful (I wonder how I ever shall 
get through mine — I am certainly much less souple than 




The Emperor Crowning the Empress. Church de l'Assompti. 



i88 3 ] A CURIOUS FUNCTION 67 

these ladies). When they had all passed the Emperor 
went alone into the chapel to communier, and receive the 
sacred oil — the Empress remained kneeling outside. 

We had various incidents in our tribune — one or two 
ladies fainted, but couldn't get out, they had to be 
propped up against the rail, and brought round with fans, 
salts, etc. We stood for three hours and a half. 

The Emperor and Empress left the church with the 
same ceremony (we all following), and then there was 
a curious function. Under a dais, still in their court 
robes, their trains carried by six or eight officers, they 
walked around the enceinte, going into three or four 
churches to make their devotions, all of us and all the 
other Princes following, all their suites, and an accom- 
paniment of bells, cannon, music, and cheers. (I forgot 
to say that when the Emperor put his crown on his head 
in the church, the cannon announced to his people that 
their sovereign was crowned.) 

We had a few drops of rain, then the sun came out 
strong, and I was rather wretched — however General 
Pittie came to my rescue, and shaded me with his hat (all 
the men were bareheaded). There were tribunes all 
along the route for the people who hadn't been able to 
get into the church; in one of them all the younger mem- 
bers of the Embassies, as of course all couldn't be got 
inside. These two were all gold and red, filled with 
women, mostly in white, and men in uniform. You can't 
imagine what a gorgeous sight it was, and the crowd 
below packed tight, all gaping at the spectacle. 

We didn't dirty our dresses (the trains of course we 
carried in our arms), I don't know why, as the red car- 
pet was decidedly damp and muddyish in places. We 
finally arrived at the Vieux Palais, where we were to 
breakfast, and the Emperor and Empress were also to 



68 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

have a little respite before dining in state with their 
people. 

We had a handsome breakfast, quantities of gold and 
silver plate, and many Russian dishes. I didn't much like 
the looks of the soup, which was clear, but had various 
things floating about on it — uncooked fish, little black 
balls, which I thought might be caviar, which I don't ever 
like; and I was rather wondering what I should eat (I was 
very hungry), when my neighbor, Nigra, the Italian Am- 
bassador, suggested I should share his meal. He didn't 
like Russian cookery either, so he had intrigued with a 
friendly official, who was going to bring him a cold 
chicken and a bottle of good red wine. I accepted joy- 
fully, and we had a very good breakfast. 

I think we were about three-quarters of an hour at 
table, and it was very pleasant to sit down after those 
hours of standing. When the breakfast was over, a little 
after two, we were conducted to the Imperial dining- 
room, a square, low room in the old Kremlin with a 
vaulted ceiling, and heavy Byzantine decorations; quan- 
tities of paintings on a gold ground, bright coloured fres- 
coes, most elaborate. There were great buffets and 
tables covered with splendid gold and silver plates, flag- 
ons, vases, etc. At the end of the room was a square, 
raised platform covered with red, and a splendid dais, all 
purple velvet, ermine, and gold embroidery where the 
Imperial couple were to dine with their faithful subjects. 

We strangers were merely admitted for a few minutes 
to see the beginning of the meal, and then we retired, and 
the Emperor remained alone with his people. Of course 
officers and officials of all descriptions were standing 
close round the platform. There was a large table to the 
left as we came in, where almost all the Russians were 
already assembled — all the women in the national dress, 




Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes. 



i88 3 ] THE STATE BANQUET 69 

high Kakoshnik, long white lace spangled veil, and a sort 
of loose hanging sleeve which was very effective. The 
ensemble was striking. 

Presently we heard a sound of music and trumpets, 
which told us the Royalties were approaching, and as 
they came near we heard the familiar strains of the Polo- 
naise from Glinka's opera "La Vie pour le Czar," which 
is always played when the Emperor and Empress ap- 
pear. They came with the usual escort of officers and 
chamberlains, smiling and bowing graciously to all of us. 
They seated themselves (always in their cloth of gold 
mantles, and crowns on their heads) on the two throne 
chairs; a small table was placed in front of them, and then 
the dinner began. 

The soupiere was preceded by a chamberlain in gold 
lace; held by a Master of Ceremonies, and flanked on 
each side by a gigantic Chevalier-garde, sabre-a-nu. 
There was always a collection of officials, chamberlains, 
pages, etc., bringing up the rear of the cortege, so that at 
each entree a little procession appeared. We saw three 
dishes brought in with the same ceremony — the fish was 
so large on a large silver dish that two Masters of Cere- 
monies held that. 

It was really a wonderful sight, like a picture in some 
old history of the Moyen Age. As soon the the Sov- 
ereigns had taken their places on the thrones all the 
Russians at their table sat down too. We couldn't, be- 
cause we had nothing to sit upon, so we remained stand- 
ing at the end of the room, facing the estrade. They 
told us that when the Emperor raised his glass and asked 
for wine that was the signal for us to retire; and that it 
would be after the roast. (All our instructions were 
most carefully given to us by Benckendorff, who felt his 
responsibility.) Think what his position would have 



70 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

been if any member of his Embassy had made a "gaffe." 
Accordingly as soon as the roast made its appear- 
ance all our eyes were riveted upon the Emperor. He 
raised his glass slowly (very high) to give us time. 
General Schweinitz, as Doyen, stepped well forward, and 
made a very low bow. We all bowed and curtseyed low 
(my knees are becoming more supple) and got our- 
selves out backwards. It wasn't very difficult, as we had 
our trains over our arms. 

I don't think we shall see anything more curious than 
that state banquet. I certainly shall never see again a 
soup tureen guarded by soldiers with drawn swords. 

10 o'clock. 

We dined quietly, everyone giving his experiences — 
of course the younger members of the Embassy, who 
had no places in the church, had a better impression of 
the ensemble than we had. They said the excitement 
and emotion of the crowd in the square before the church 
was extraordinary. All crossed themselves, and many 
cried, when the cannon told them that the Emperor was 
crowned. They seem to be an emotional, superstitious 
race. They also said the procession around the courts, 
when the Emperor and Empress were going to the va- 
rious churches, was wonderful — a moving mass of feath- 
ers, jewels, banners, bright helmets, and cuirasses, all 
glittering in the sun. 

After dinner we drove about a little, seeing the illu- 
minations, but the crowd was so dense we could hardly 
move, though the soldiers did all they could, and battered 
the people about. Then it began to rain a little, so I 
begged to come home. It is raining quite hard now — 
I hear it on the marquise. Heavens how tired I am. 

Of course I can't write half of what I have seen, but 



i88 3 ] THE QUEEN OF GREECE 71 

the papers will keep you quite au courant. Some of the 
newspaper correspondents were in the church, and of 
course plenty in the tribunes outside. Our carriages 
certainly made a great effect, and we were cheered va- 
rious times on our way home. 

Madame Hubert talks so much she can hardly get 
me my things. She is as much pleased with her hus- 
band's appearance as I am with mine. What an experi- 
ence for them, when you think that she had never been 
out of Villers-Cotterets and Bourneville when she came 
to us, and Paris seemed a Paradise. 

Ambassade de France a Moscou, 

Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, 

Monday, May 28th, 1883. 

We were all again in Court dress at 1 1 this morning to 
go to the Palace and present our felicitations to the Im- 
perial couple. I wore the same blue dress, as my pink 
one goes on to-night for the "courtag" at the Palace. It 
seems there was some misunderstanding about our being 
received this morning, so some of our colleagues had 
come, and gone, rather put out at the vagueness of the 
instructions. We decided to remain, as we had arrived 
there in all our finery, particularly as one of the cham- 
berlains told us it would be most interesting. Deputa- 
tions from the provinces were to present addresses of 
felicitation and we would see all the national costumes. 

As we had some time to wait, the Greek chamberlain 
suggested that we should take advantage of that op- 
portunity to be presented to the Queen of Greece. He 
thought he could arrange it, so he went off to her 
rooms, and presently reappeared with the maid of hon- 
our, Mile. Colocotroni (a friend of Gertrude's), and we 
were taken at once to the Queen, who was standing in 



72 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

a small salon overlooking the river. She is young and 
handsome, fair, stoutish, but tall enough to carry it off 
well, and was chatty and sympathetic — said she supposed 
I was quite tired after yesterday, that it was certainly very 
trying; that the person who was the least tired was the 
Empress. She had met her in one of the corridors in 
the interval between the ceremony at the church, or 
rather the churches (as she went to three after leaving 
the Assomption). She had taken off her Imperial mantle 
and crown, and was going to see one of her numerous 
relations before beginning again. 

As soon as our audience was over we returned to the 
large audience hall, where we found Benckendorff tear- 
ing his hair, in a wild state, because we were late — all our 
colleagues had taken their places. However we were in 
time, and ranged ourselves, the ladies all together on 
the right, the men opposite. I was the Doyenne, and 
stood at the head of the column (as neither Lady Thorn- 
ton nor Mdme. Schweinitz was there). All about the 
room were groups of people from the provinces waiting 
their turn, but there was such a crowd of uniforms and 
costumes that one could hardly distinguish anything. 

Presently the Court appeared — the Emperor always in 
uniform, the Empress in a very handsome train, blue vel- 
vet, embroidered in gold, and a splendid tiara, necklace 
and front of sapphires. They had the usual train of 
Princes, chamberlains, aides-de-camp, etc. As soon as 
they had taken their places on the platform all the 
Missions (men) advanced according to their rank. The 
Ambassador made a few steps forward, said a few words 
of felicitation to the Emperor (the Mission remaining at 
a respectful distance behind), then made a low bow, and 
all retired a reculons. 

The Austrian Embassy looked very well — the Hun- 



i88 3 ] COURT DRESS 73 

garian uniforms are so handsome. The Americans also 
very well, though they have no uniform, wear ordinary 
black evening clothes. The Admiral and his two aides- 
de-camp of course wore theirs, but it is so quiet, dark 
blue with little lace, and no orders, that one would 
hardly have remarked it except for the epaulettes and 
aiguillettes. 

As soon as all the men of the Corps Diplomatique had 
passed the Empress left her place and came to us. Her 
train was carried by 4 pages, a high official, red velvet and 
gold lace, carrying the extreme end. She passed down 
the line of ladies, saying something to each one. I heard 
her speak three languages — English, French, and Ger- 
man — quite easily. 

We waited until the Court retired, and then there was 
the usual stampede for the carriages. I have not been 
out again this afternoon. We start for our Court ball 
at 8.45, and of course dine early. I was interrupted by 
Philippe, who came to coiffer me, having as usual 
stopped in the lingerie to inspect my dress, the pink one 
this time. He tells me he began to dress some of the 
heads for to-night at 12 this morning. 

To H. L. K. 

Ambassade de France a Moscou, 

Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, 

Mardi, 29 Mai, 1883. 

I will begin my letter while I am waiting to go with 
some of the gentlemen and Benckendorfr to see the 
preparations for the great people's fete. I couldn't write 
last night, I was so tired out. Two court dresses and 
functions, and hours of standing is a good deal for one 
day. We started early, at a quarter to 9. We as- 



74 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

sembled in the same room in the old Kremlin where the 
Imperial couple had dined this afternoon. Almost all 
our colleagues and some of the swell Russians were al- 
ready there, and everyone moved about, talking and 
looking until the welcome strains of the march told us 
the Emperor and Empress were coming. 

One of the chamberlains showed me some of the most 
curious old bowls and flagons. The work is rather 
rough, and the stones enormous — not well cut — but the 
effect is good, half barbaric. The Court appeared al- 
ways with the same brilliant suite — the Empress looked 
charming in a pink velvet train, embroidered in silver. 
All the Grand Duchesses in drap d'argent, bordered with 
beautiful black sable. 

As soon as the Court arrived the polonaise began ; the 
Emperor making the first with Queen of Greece, the 
Empress with Schweinitz. It was a charming sight. All 
the trains were etalees their full length. The gentleman 
takes his partner's hand, holding it very high, and they 
make a stately progress through the rooms. I didn't 
dance the first one. We had a very good view of the 
whole thing. It was a beautiful sight — the men all in 
uniform, with orders, and broad ribbons; and the women 
with their trains down the full length. The Russian 
trains, of white and silver bordered with fur, made a great 
effect. 

The Emperor danced (which is a fagon de parler only, 
as one walked through the rooms) with the Queen of 
Greece, Arch Duchess Charles Louis, and the Ambas- 
sadrices Lady Thornton, Mdme. Juares, Countess Dud- 
zeele, and me — the Empress with the 6 Ambassadors. 
I danced the second polonaise with the Grand Duke 
Wladimir, who is handsome and spirited looking. He 
told me who many of the people were. In one of the 



i88 3 ] A POLONAISE WITH THE EMPEROR 75 

rooms were all the Russian women, not in costume, but 
in ordinary ball dress, all, however, wearing the Kakosh- 
nik studded with jewels, and most becoming it was. 

I was much interested (before my turn came) to see 
how the ladies got back to their places after having been 
deposited by the Emperor in the middle of the room. He 
doesn't conduct his partner back as all the others do. 
He goes back to his own place, the lady makes a curtsey, 
and gets back to hers across the room backwards as well 
as she can. They seemed to get through all right. I 
rather enjoyed my polonaise with the Emperor. He 
showed me quantities of people — a splendid man from 
some part of Asia dressed in white, with jewels, coloured 
stones mostly, all down the front of his coat, and pistols 
in his belt with jewelled hilts. Also the Khan of Khiva, 
with all the front of his high fur cap covered with jewels, 
also his belt, which seemed made entirely of diamonds 
and rubies. 

The music was always the march from Glinka's opera; 
each band in turn taking it up as the cortege passed 
through the rooms. The last Polonaise finished about 
11.30, and the Court immediately retired. We had no 
refreshments of any kind, and made the same rush for the 
carriages. 

Our rentree to the Embassy is most amusing — the 
whole Mission precedes us, and when we arrive we find 
them ranged in a semicircle at the foot of the stair- 
case, waiting to receive us. Richard says he never un- 
derstood the gulf that separates an Ambassador Extra- 
ordinary from ordinary mortals until he accompanied his 
brother to Moscow. 



76 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

5 o'clock. 

We had rather an interesting afternoon. We met one 
of the committee at the place, sort of great plain, or 
meadow, where the Fete Populaire is to be, near the 
Petrofski Palace, where the Emperor stayed before he 
made his public entree into Moscow, who showed us 
everything. There are quantities of little sheds or ba- 
raques, where everybody (and there will be thousands, 
he tells us) will receive a basket with a meat pate, a 
pate of confitures, a cake, and a package of bonbons. 
There are also great barrels of beer, where everyone can 
go with a mug and drink as much as he can hold. 

We asked M. (I forget his name) how it was possible 
to take precautions with such a crowd of people, but he 
said they anticipated no danger, it was the "people's 
day," which sounded to us rather optimistic. It was 
rather nice driving about. 

Now I have just been, at the request of Lhermite, to 
look at his table, as we have our first big dinner to-night 
(all Russians); all the flowers, "Roses de France," have 
just arrived from Paris — three nights on the road; they 
look quite fresh and beautiful, — were packed alone in 
large hampers. I shall wear my blue tulle ball-dress 
to-night, as we go to the ball at the Governor's Palace 
after dinner. 

Wednesday, 30th. 

Our dinner was pleasant last night. As it was entirely 
Russian we had the curious meal they all take just be- 
fore dinner. A table was spread in the small salon open- 
ing into the dining-room, with smoked and salted fish, 
caviare, cucumbers, anchovies, etc. They all partook, 
and then we passed into the dining-room, where the real 
business began. I sat between M. de Giers, Foreign 



i88 3 ] A DINNER AND A BALL 77 

Minister, and Count Worontzoff, Ministre de la Cour. 
They were very pleasant, and rather amusing over the 
exigencies of the suites of the foreign Princes; the 
smaller the Power the more important the chamberlains, 
equerries, etc. — rather like our own experience the year 
of the Exhibition in Paris, where a Baden equerry, I 
think, was forgotten (which of course was most improper 
at the Quai d'Orsay), and most delicate negotiations 
were necessary. Both gentlemen were very complimen- 
tary over the dinner and the flowers — asked where in 
Moscow we had been able to find them, and could hardly 
believe they had arrived this morning, three nights and 
three days on the road. They were beautiful, those 
lovely pink "Roses de France," which looked quite 
charming with the dark blue Sevres china. 

The guests went off about 10; and we half an hour 
later to the great ball. I wore my light blue tulle 
with silver braid; and I will add that I left the greater 
part of the tulle at the Palace. Happily the silk under- 
skirt was strong, or else I should have stood in my petti- 
coats. The crowd and heat was something awful — the 
staircase was a regular bousculade, and I was thankful 
those big Russian spurs merely tore my flounces, and 
didn't penetrate any further. We finally arrived, strug- 
gling and already exhausted, in the ballroom, where we 
found all the Grand Dukes and Grand Duchesses already 
assembled to receive the Emperor. 

We had some little time to wait, so they all came over 
and talked to us. The Queen of Greece is most attrac- 
tive — so simple. She noticed that my dress was torn and 
flowers crushed, but said, what was quite true, that no 
one would remark it in the crowd. We soon heard the 
sound of the March, and then there was such a rush 
towards the door by which the Emperor and Empress 



78 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

were to enter that we quickly withdrew into the embra- 
sure of the window, and let the torrent pass. They tried 
to make a circle, but it was impossible. The crowd was 
dense. W. and I made our way quickly to the head of 
the stairs and waited there, as they had told us the Em- 
peror would not stay long — merely make a tour through 
the rooms. 

They appeared very soon, shook hands with us both, 
and seemed very glad to get away. The Empress was 
in light blue, with a beautiful diamond tiara. It is rather 
pretty to see the Grand Duke Wladimir always close to 
his brother, to shield him from any danger. We were 
all rather cross when we got home. 

This morning I have been shopping with W., Richard, 
and Pontecoulant. It is rather an unsatisfactory per- 
formance, as we can't either speak or understand Russian. 
In the bazaars and real Moscow shops they know nothing 
but Russian. We take the little polygot boy with us (al- 
ways ahead in his little droshky) but as he invariably an- 
nounces "la grande Ambassade" we see the prices go up. 
Some of the enamel and gold and silver work is beauti- 
ful. Richard was quite fascinated with the Madonnas, 
with their black faces and wands, set in a handsome frame 
of gold, with light blue enamel. He bought two, one 
for Louise and one for me, which I am delighted to have. 
We bought various little boxes, some of lacquer, others 
in silver, rather prettily worked, and a variety of fancy 
spoons, buckles, etc. 

I must stop now and dress. We dine at 6, so as to be 
at the Opera at 9. We shall go "en gala," our three 
carriages, as it is a fine warm night. The detective is a 
little anxious for to-night (it would be such a good op- 
portunity to get rid of all the Russian Princes, to say 
nothing of the foreigners). He and Pontecoulant sug- 



i88 3 ] A NIGHT AT THE OPERA 79 

gested to W. that I should be left at home, but I pro- 
tested vigorously. If they all go, I am going too. I 
don't feel very nervous, I wonder why; for it really is a 
little uncomfortable — unusual to hesitate about going to 
the Opera because one might be blown up. 



To H. L. K. 

Jeudi, May 31st, 1883. 

I was too tired to write last night, though the opera 
was over fairly early. It was a beautiful sight, the house 
brilliantly lighted and crowded, nothing but uniforms, 
orders, and jewels. There was one dark box, which of 
course attracted much attention; the Americans — all the 
men in black, except the three naval officers — (we were 
acclames all along the route, and I must say Leroy and 
Hubert looked very well in their tricornes and powdered 
wigs). I wore the creme embroidered velvet with blue 
satin front, tiara, and blue feathers in my hair. I fancy 
Philippe had made a sort of tower on the top of my 
head, but he again assured me I must have a "coiffure de 
circonstance." 

The square before the Opera was brilliantly lighted 
(they certainly light most beautifully in Russia — thou- 
sands of candles everywhere), a red carpet down, and 
quantities of palms and flowers — always also quantities 
of gilded gentlemen. We didn't wait very long for the 
Court to appear — about a quarter of an hour — and were 
much taken up looking at everything, and everybody, 
and trying to recognize our friends. A large box at one 
end of the house, opposite the stage, was reserved for 
the Royalties, all draped of course in red and gold. 

Everyone rose when the Emperor and Empress ar- 
rived, always with their brilliant cortege of Princes. One 



80 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

of the most striking uniforms was the Prince of 
Montenegro's, but they all made a fine show, and a most 
effective background for the women — the orchestra play- 
ing the Russian Hymn, the chorus singing it, all the 
house applauding, and all eyes fixed on the Royal box. 

It was really magnificent, and the Emperor looked 
pleased. They gave the first act of Glinka's opera "La 
Vie pour le Czar." When the curtain fell the whole 
house rose again; when the Emperor and Empress left 
their box there was a general movement among the peo- 
ple, and some of our colleagues had come to pay us a visit 
when Count Worontzoff (Ministre de la Cour) appeared 
and said, "Sa Majeste" hoped we would come and have 
tea with her, and he would have the honour of showing 
us the way; so he gave me his arm and took me to the 
foyer, which was very well arranged with flowers, plants, 
and red carpets. 

There were several round tables. He took me to the 
Empress' table, where were the Queen of Greece, Grand 
Duchesses Constantine and Wladimir, Lady Thornton, 
and Madame Jaures; also Nigra, Schweinitz, and a 
brother of the Shah de Perse. The Empress looked so 
young, in white, with a broad red ribbon, and splendid 
diamonds. The Queen of Greece was charming, asked 
me if I ever found time to write to Francis. The Em- 
peror didn't sit down — he walked about between the 
tables, and talked to everybody. 

We stayed, I should think, about half an hour at the 
tea-table, and then went back to the theatre. The ballet 
was long, but interesting, all the mazurkas of the Empire 
were danced in costume. We got our carriages easily 
enough, and the arrangements were good. The younger 
members of the Mission who didn't go for tea with the 
Empress found the entr'acte long. 



i88 3 ] AFTER THE FESTIVITIES 81 

Saturday, June 2d. 

I couldn't write yesterday, Dear, for I was in bed until 
dinner-time, thoroughly tired out. Neither W. nor I 
went to the ball on Thursday night given by the "No- 
blesse de Moscou." I hoped to be able to go to the ball 
of the German Embassy last night, but I couldn't do that 
either. I felt rather better about 6 o'clock, and sent for 
my dress, as W. particularly wanted me to go, but the 
minute I stood up and tried to dress I was half fainting, 
so there was no use persisting. 

The fatigue has been something awful, and the hours 
of standing have made it impossible to put on my Paris 
shoes, and I have been obliged to buy white satin boats 
at one of the Moscow shoemakers. The bootmaker^ 
will make his fortune, as it seems everybody is in the 
same state. The Empress even can't wear her usual 
shoes, and all the women have left off coquettish little 
shoes that match their dresses, and taken to these rather 
primitive chaussures. 

W. and all the gentlemen went to the ball, and said 
it was very handsome — everything, silver, supper, ser- 
vants, etc., had been sent from Berlin. Madame 
Schweinitz, who has a young baby, arrived from Peters- 
burg the morning of the ball. Count Eulenbourg — one 
of the German Emperor's Maitres des Ceremonies — had 
also arrived to decide about the questions of precedence, 
place, etc. The Court remained to supper, so of course 
the Ambassadors were obliged to stay. W. got home at 
2 o'clock, very late for this country, where everything 
begins early. 

Richard and Pontecoulant are getting great friends. 
Pontecoulant blagues* him all the time — says he is get- 
ting a perfect courtier, and that his electors in the Seine 

* Teases. 



82 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

Inferieure would be scandalized if they could see him. I 
must dress now for the "Fete Populaire," and will write 
more when I get back. 

9 o'clock. 

I have retired to my own quarters. W. dines with 
Nigra, so I have remained in my dressing-room, as 
I have still a "fond de fatigue." The Fete Popu- 
laire was interesting. The day has been beautiful, and 
there was not a hitch of any kind. The drive out 
was interesting, on account of the people, a steady stream 
of peasants of all ages going the same way. We went 
at once to the Loge Imperiale, a large pavilion erected at 
the entrance facing the great plain. The space was so 
enormous that one hardly distinguished anything. The 
booths and towers looked like little spots, and they were 
very far off. The Emperor and Empress never left the 
Loge. He certainly didn't go down and walk about 
among the people, as some enthusiastic gentlemen had 
told us he would. Of course all the same people were 
assembled in the Loge — Diplomatists, Court officials, 
officers, etc. There was a cold lunch always going on. 

There were many white dresses — all Russian women 
wear white a great deal at any age. The Princess 
Kotchoubey — 78 years old — who put the Imperial man- 
tle on the Empress the day of the sacre, and who had 
done the same thing for the late Empress, was dressed 
entirely in white, bonnet, mantle, everything. 

The Court remained about an hour, and we left as soon 
as they did. There was some little delay getting our 
carriages, but on the whole the thing was well managed. 
Already some people were coming away looking very 
smiling, and carrying their baskets most carefully. I will 
bring you one of the mugs they gave me with the chiffre 
of the Emperor and Empress, and the date. 



i88 3 ] A DIPLOMATIC DINNER 83 

Sunday, June 3d. 

I stayed at home all the morning, quite pleased to have 
nothing to do. This afternoon W., Pontecoulant, and I 
went for a little turn. We got out of the carriage at the 
Kremlin, and walked about, having a quiet look at 
everything. The view from the terrace was enchanting, 
the afternoon sun lighting up all the curious old build- 
ings, and bringing out the colours of everything. 

This evening we have had a diplomatic dinner. I was 
between Schweinitz and Sir Edward Thornton. Both of 
them talked a great deal. After dinner I talked some 
time to Hunt, whom I like very much. He says many 
people, Russians particularly, couldn't understand why 
he didn't wear his uniform — "ce n'est pas tres poli pour 
nous." They can't conceive that the representative of a 
great Power shouldn't be attired in velvet and gold like 
all the rest of the Embassies. 

The table was again covered with pink roses. They 
just last through the dinner, and fall to pieces as soon as 
they are taken out of the vases. Some of them looked 
so fresh, not even in full bloom, that I thought I could 
send some French roses to Countess Pahlen, and the 
moment we left the dining-room Lhermite took them 
off the table, but they fell to pieces in his hands, covering 
the floor with their petals. 

Monday, June 4th. 
This morning we have been photographed in the 
court-yard — the whole establishment, gala carriages, ser- 
vants, horses, moujiks, maids, cooks, etc. First there 
was the "classic" group of the Mission, W. and I seated 
in front, with all the gentlemen standing around us. It 
was very long getting the poses all right so as to show 
everybody in an advantageous light; and as it is (judging 



H LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

from the cliche) Francois de Corcelle looks as if he was 
throttling me. Then came the group of the whole party, 
and it was amusing to see how eager the Russian maids 
and the stable-men were to be well placed. They stood 
as still as rocks. We waited a little to see the gala car- 
riages and horses taken, but that was too long. The 
horses were nervous, and never were quiet an instant. 
Now someone has gone to get a drum — they think the 
sudden noise may make them all look in the same direc- 
tion for a moment. 

W. and I have been out for a turn — to the Kremlin 
of course, which is really the most interesting part of 
Moscow. There is always the same crowd hurrying and 
jostling each other. We went all over St. Basile. The 
inside is curious, with a succession of rooms and dark re- 
cesses, but the outside is unique; such an agglomeration 
of domes, steeples, bell-towers; all absolutely different in 
shape and colour — perfectly barbarous, but very strik- 
ing. 

W. enjoys our quiet afternoon drives, the perpetual 
representation, seeing always the same people, and say- 
ing and hearing the same things, is beginning to tire 
him. It is a curious life. We see nothing but the Court 
and the people — no haute bourgeoisie nor intermediate 
class, and yet they exist, people in finance and com- 
mercial affairs. They certainly have had no part in the 
show — I should think there must be great discontent. 
The young generation certainly will never be satisfied to 
be kept entirely out of everything. Some of them have 
travelled, been educated in England, have handsome 
houses, English horses, etc., but apparently they don't 
exist — at least we have never seen any. 

I must stop, as we dress and dine early for the Palace 
Ball. My Dear, my dress is frightfully green (Delan- 



i88 3 ] A PALACE BALL 85 

noy's green velvet coat over pink tulle). Of course we 
chose it by candle-light, when it looked charming; but 
as we dress and start by daylight I am rather anxious. 
I consulted Pontecoulant, who came in just as the maids 
were bringing it in. He said, "C'est bien vert, Madame." 
Let us hope that the light of thousands of wax candles 
may have a subduing effect. 

To G. K. S. 

Ambassade de France, Moscow, 
Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, 
June 5, 1883. 

The Palace ball was quite beautiful last night. I had 
some misgivings as to my dress until we got to the 
Palace, as the gentlemen of the Embassy had evidently 
found me very green when we assembled in the great 
hall before starting; however as soon as we arrived in 
the big room of the Palace where we were all marshalled, 
Countess Linden (an American born) said to me at once 
"Oh, Mdme. Waddington, how lovely your pink roses 
look on the dark blue velvet," so I knew it was all right. 
I wore that dress of Delannoy's which she was sure would 
be most effective — pink tulle skirts — with a green velvet 
habit (chosen of course by candle-light) so that it did 
look very green by daylight, and a wreath of pink roses 
round the decollete. I remember both Henrietta and 
Pauline were a little doubtful — but it certainly made 
more effect than any dress I wore except the blue man- 
teau de cour. I will tell Delannoy. We always go in by 
a special side entrance to these Palace functions, which 
is a pity, as we miss the grand staircase, which they 
told us was splendid with red carpets, soldiers, and gold- 
laced gentlemen to-night. We waited some time, an 
hour certainly, before the Court came, but as all the 



86 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

Corps Diplomatique were assembled there it was pleas- 
ant enough, and we all compared our experiences and our 
fatigue, for everybody was dead tired — the men more 
than the women. 

The rooms are magnificent — very high, and entirely 
lighted by wax candles — thousands; one of the cham- 
berlains told me how many, but I would scarcely dare to 
say. The Court arrived with the usual ceremony and 
always the same brilliant suite of officers and foreign 
Princes. The Emperor and Empress looked very smil- 
ing, and not at all tired. She was in white, with splendid 
diamonds and the broad blue ribbon of St. Andre. He 
always in uniform. As soon as they appeared the po- 
lonaises began, this time three only, which the Emperor 
danced with the ladies of the family. I danced the first 
with the Grand Duke Wladimir. He is charming and 
amiable, but has a stern face when he isn't smiling. I 
think if the Russians ever feel his hand it will be a heavy 
one. I danced the second with the Grand Duke Alexis, 
and looked on at the third. It was not nearly so fine a 
sight as the Court ball at the old palace. There the mixt- 
ure of modern life and dress and half barbaric costumes 
and ornamentations was so striking; also the trains made 
such an effect, being all etaled one was obliged to keep a 
certain distance, and that gave a stately air to the whole 
thing which was wanting last night when all the women 
were in ordinary ball dress, not particularly long, so that 
the cortege was rather crowded and one saw merely a 
mass of jewelled heads (the dress was lost). Also they 
merely walked around the ballroom, not going through 
all the rooms as we did at the old palace. 

When the polonaises were over there were one or two 
waltzes. The Empress made several turns, but with the 
Princes only, and we stood and looked on. 



i88 3 ] AN EPISODE 87 

While we were waiting there until someone should 
come and get us for some new function I heard a sort of 
scuffle behind me and a woman's impatient voice saying 
in English "I can't bear it another moment," and a sound 
of something falling or rolling across the floor. I turned 

round and saw Mdme. A (a secretary's wife, also an 

American) apparently struggling with something, and 
very flushed and excited. I said, "What is the matter?" 
"I am kicking off my shoes." "But you can never put 
them on again." "I don't care if I never see them again 
— I can't stand them another minute." "But you have 
to walk in a cortege to supper with the Imperial party." 
"I don't care at all, I shall walk in my stockings," then 
came another little kick, and the slipper disappeared, roll- 
ing underneath a heavy damask curtain. I quite sympa- 
thized with her, as my beautiful white slippers (Moscow 
manufacture) were not altogether comfortable, but I 
think I should not have had the strength of mind to dis- 
card them entirely. When I was dressing, Adelaide tried 
to persuade me that I had better put on the pink satin 
slippers that matched my dress; but my experience of the 
hours of standing at all Russian Court functions had at 
least taught me not to start with anything that was at all 
tight. 

While we were looking at the dancing the Grand Duke 
Michel came over and asked me if I wouldn't come and 
stand a little with the Grand Duchesses. He took me to a 
little group where were the Grand Duchesses Michel and 
Constantine and the Queen of Greece (she is always so 
gay and natural). They at once asked me who had made 
my dress, and what color it was. They had been talking 
about it, and couldn't agree. The Grand Duchess Con- 
stantine had on her emeralds, and beautiful they were — 
blocks of stone, rather difficult to wear. She must have 



88 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

been very handsome, has still a beautiful figure, and holds 
herself splendidly. 

We talked music a little — she said I ought to hear 
some of the people's songs. I should like to very much, 
but there doesn't seem any place where one can hear the 
national songs. The men of the Embassy went one night 
to the "Hermitage," where there was a little of every- 
thing, and did hear some of the peasants singing their 
national airs, but they didn't seem to think I could go. 
While we were still talking there was a move, and they 
said the Empress (who had been dancing all the time in 
a small circle made for her at her end of the ballroom 
and very strictly kept) was going to have tea. All the 
Court and suite followed, and I was rather wondering 
how to get back to my place and my colleagues when a 
tall aide-de-camp came up and said he would have the 
honour of conducting me to Her Majesty's tea — so we 
started off across several rooms and corridors, which 
were crowded, and arrived at a door where the two gi- 
gantic negroes were standing. He said something — the 
doors flew open — he made me a low bow and retired (as 
he couldn't come any farther), and I found myself stand- 
ing alone in a large room with four or five tables — every- 
one seated. For a moment I didn't know quite what 
to do, and felt rather shy, but the Princess Kotchoubey, 
Grande Maitresse, who was standing in the middle of the 
room, came forward at once and took me to the Duch- 
esse d'Edimbourg's table, where there were also the 
Arch-Duchess Charles Louis, the Duchess of Olden- 
burg, a young Hessian Prince, and my two colleagues, 
Lady Thornton and Madame jaures. 

We had -tea and ices — didn't talk much, except the 
Duchess of Edinburgh, who seems clever and ready to 
talk — but I wasn't near her. I didn't see all the Ambas- 



i88 3 ] HER MAJESTY'S TEA 89 

sadors, mine certainly wasn't there, and of course very 
few comparatively of our colleagues, as only Ambas- 
sadors and their wives were invited to Her Majesty's tea 
(no small fry, like Ministers). 

I had the explanation of W.'s absence later. When 
the Court moved off to tea General Wolseley suggested 
that W. should come and smoke a cigar in his room. He 
was lodged at the Kremlin with his Prince, the Duke of 
Edinburgh. He, like a true Briton, had enough of bow- 
ing and standing. W. was naturally quite of the same 
opinion, so they picked up Admiral Seymour (also with 
the Duke of Edinburgh) and had a very pleasant hour 
smoking and talking until they were summoned for sup- 
per. That they couldn't get out of, as we made a fine 
procession directly behind the Court through all the 
rooms to St. George's Hall — a great white high room 
magnificently lighted, with tablets all around the walls 
with the names of the Knights of the Order of St. George 
who had died in battle, and a souper assis for 800 people. 
Sir Edward Thornton, British Ambassador, took me. 
As we were parading through the rooms between two 
hedges of gaping people looking at the cortege, dresses, 

diamonds, etc., I thought of Mdme. A and her 

stockings, and wondered how she was getting on. I dare- 
say quite well; as she had a yellow satin dress and yellow 
silk stockings perhaps no one noticed anything, and as 
long as she didn't step on a needle or anything sharp she 
was all right. Someone will find a nice little pair of 
yellow satin shoes under the window-curtains in the ball- 
room when the cleaning up is done after the fetes. 

The hall was a blaze of light and jewels — a long table 
across the end for the Imperial party, and all of us at two 
long tables running the whole length of the room. The 
gold and silver plate was very handsome, particularly the 



go LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

massive flambeaux and high ornaments for the middle of 
the table. The supper was good, hot, and quickly served. 
There was music all the time — singers, men and women, 
in a gallery singing all sorts of Russian airs which no- 
body listened to. The Emperor did not sit down to 
supper. He remained standing in the middle of the 
room talking to his gentlemen, and a few words to the 
diplomatists when supper was over and one loitered a 
little before going back to the ballroom. He certainly 
doesn't care to talk to strangers — seeks them out very 
little, and when he does talk it is absolutely banal. Is it 
"paresse d'esprit" or great reserve? — one hardly knows. 
I should think all this parade and function bored him 
extremely. They say he is very domestic in his tastes, 
and what he likes best is the country with his wife and 
children. 

After supper we went back to the ballroom for about 
half an hour. Then the Court retired and we followed 
them at once. We got our carriages fairly quickly. 
There are always crowds in the streets waiting to see the 
grand-monde pass. The Kremlin looks fairy-like as we 
drive through — lights everywhere, some high, high up in 
a queer little octagon green tower — then a great door- 
way and staircase all lighted, with quantities of servants 
and soldiers standing about; then a bit of rough pave- 
ment in a half dark court and under a little low dark 
gate with a shrine and Madonna at one end — all so per- 
fectly unmodern, and unlike anything else. 

I began my letter this morning before breakfast, but 
didn't finish, as I was called off by some visits, and now 
I will try and send this off by to-night's courier. We have 
had a nice afternoon looking at the Tresor. Of course it 
was very hurried — it would take weeks to see everything. 



i88 3 ] THE ROYAL TREASURE 91 

The collection of state carriages and sleighs is interest- 
ing. Almost all the carriages are French — either given 
to the various Russian Sovereigns by French Kings, or 
ordered in France by the Sovereigns themselves. The 
great sledge in which Catharine II. made all her long 
voyages is comfortable enough, and not unlike the "wag- 
ons imperiaux" in which we travelled from Varsovie to 
Moscow. 

Then we saw all the Coronation robes, crowns, sap- 
phires, swords, jewelled belts and collars, furs, etc., of 
all the old Emperors from Ivan the Terrible down to the 
late Emperor. Some of the crowns of the first Ivans 
and Peters are extraordinary — a sort of high fur cap 
covered with jewels, but heavy and roughly made — the 
jewels always beautiful, such large stones, particularly 
sapphires and rubies. There were vitrines full of splen- 
did gold and silver cups and dishes, presents to the Em- 
peror from all the different provinces. 

They tell us the present Emperor has had magnificent 
things given to him, but we have not seen them yet. 
We met various people also going through the Museum, 
and I had quite a talk with Radziwill (you know which 
one I mean, who married Countess Malatesta's daugh- 
ter). It seemed funny to go back to the old Roman 
days, and the evenings (prima-sera) in the Malatesta Pal- 
ace. He says everybody is worn out with the cere- 
monies and the standing — however, to-night is the end, 
with our dinner at the Palace. 

I have again been interrupted — this time by a visit 
from the Due d'Aoste, whom I always find charming. 
He is not at all expansive and very shy, but when one 
breaks the ice he is interesting. He doesn't look like 
anybody else, nor as if he belonged to this century. It 
is quite the face one would see in any old Spanish picture 



92 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE Dune 

— a soldier-monk of Velasquez. He talked about the 
Exhibition of '78, when W. was at the Foreign Office, 
and I was almost tempted to tell him how embarrassed 
we all were on the opening day when there were so many 
Ex- Spanish Sovereigns — King Francois d'Assises, Queen 
Isabella, and King Amedee. There was a big reception 
in the evening at the Elysee, and the Marechal* was 
rather bothered with all his Spanish Royalties. However, 
Queen Isabella and the Due d'Aoste were evidently on 
the best of terms. I saw them talking together, and I 
believe all the Spaniards liked d'Aoste, though naturally 
they wanted a King of their own race. 

Here is Monsieur Philippe for his last coiffure, as he 
says somewhat sadly. To-night's dinner is our last func- 
tion. We have then the revue, by daylight, of course, 
and leave on Sunday for Petersburg. 

Wednesday, June 6th. 

The, gala dinner was handsome and short last night. 
W. and I went off alone (none but chefs de mission were 
invited) in the coupe d'Orsay, always with Benckendorff 
in his carriage in front — W. in uniform, I in my white 
and silver brocade, white feathers and diamonds in my 
hair, no colour anywhere, not even on my cheeks, which 
reduces Philippe to a state of prostrate stupefaction — 
"Madame qui pourrait etre si bien." 

We were received at the foot of the staircase and at 
the doors by all the Chamberlains as usual and taken at 
once to the same Salle St. George where we were to dine 
— all at the Imperial table this time — about 500 cou- 
verts. We were shown at once our seats — all the places 
were marked, and we stood waiting behind our chairs 
(like the footmen) for the Court to appear. I found my- 

* MacMahon, President at that time of the French Republic. 



i88 3 ] THE GALA DINNER 93 

self seated between the Due d'Aoste and the young 
Crown Prince of Sweden, so I was quite satisfied. One 
of my colleagues was very anxious I should change the 
papers — give her my Duke and take her's, who was never 
civil to her, but would be perhaps to me, but I demurred, 
as I knew mine would be nice, and I didn't know her's 
at all. I don't think he was very nice to her, certainly 
didn't talk much, but perhaps he never does. 

We didn't wait very long. The Court was fairly 
punctual — the Empress looked very nice, all in white 
with diamonds. She had on her right the Due d'Edim- 
bourg (who always had the place of honour), and on her 
left the Prince Waldemar de Danemark,her brother. The 
Emperor had the Queen of Greece on his right, the Arch 
Duchess Charles Louis on his left. The dinner wasn't 
bad, and was quickly served. The fish were enormous, 
served on large silver dishes as big as boats. There was 
always that curious Russian soup with all sorts of nonde- 
script things floating about on the surface. The Due 
d'Aoste was as nice as possible — said the Court officials 
would be enchanted when everything was over, and all 
the foreign Princes safely back in their own countries, 
that the question of etiquette was something awful. As 
soon as the Russian Court decided anything all the others 
immediately protested — used all sorts of precedents, and 
complicated matters in every way. I suggested that he 
himself was difficult to place on account of the Due de 
Montpensier, who was here as a Spanish Prince, husband 
of the Infanta. He replied "Absolument pas — je suis 
ici comme prince italien, frere du roi," declining any sort 
of Spanish souvenir. 

When dinner was over we passed into the salle St. An- 
dre for coffee, and that was funny too. As soon as the 
Emperor and Empress made the move all our Dukes and 



94 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

Princes got up at once, and joined the Imperial pro- 
cession, and we followed all in a heap. There we had a 
pleasant half hour, the Empress and the Grand Duchesses 
came over and talked to us, hoped we were not tired, 
that we had been interested, etc. I said to the Grand 
Duchess Constantine that they must be enchanted to be 
at the end of their functions, and to get rid of us all — 
but she said not at all. She herself was much less tired 
than when she began. She asked me what I had found 
the most striking in all the ceremonies. I said certainly 
the Coronation — first the moment when the Emperor 
crowned himself — the only figure standing on the dais, 
and afterwards when he crowned the Empress, she kneel- 
ing before him. 

The Empress asked me if I was going straight back to 
France, but she didn't say, as so many of the others did, 
"Ce n'est pas adieu pour vous, Mdme. Waddington, mais 
au revoir, car vous reviendrez certainement." Admiral 
Jaures having already resigned many people think W. 
will be the next Ambassador, but he certainly won't 
come. 

About 9 the Court retired. We had dined at 7, so the 
whole thing took about two hours. It was quite light 
when we came out of the Palace, and when we got back 
to the Maison Klein we found the Embassy just finishing 
dinner, still in the dining-room. We sat a few minutes 
with them telling our experiences. W. had been next to 
the Grand Duchess Michel, who was very animated and 
intelligent, and extremely well posted in all literary and 
political matters, and fairly just for a Princess speaking 
about a Republic. 

Poor Pontecoulant has had a telegram telling him of 
his brother's death. He is very much upset, and goes 
off to-night. W. will miss him extremely — he was his 



i88 3 ] A HOME FOR FOUNDLINGS 95 

right-hand man. I have been out this morning shop- 
ping with Francois de Courcelle. It isn't easy, as our 
Russian is not fluent, but still we managed to find a few 
things. 

This afternoon I have been with Lagrene (Consul), 
Sesmaisons, Corcelle, and Calmon to the great institu- 
tion of the "Enfants Trouves" fondee par lTmperatrice 
Catherine II. There we found Admiral Jaures and all 
his staff, and a director who showed us all over the 
establishment — of course everything was in perfect order, 
and perfectly clean (and I believe it always is), but I 
should have preferred not having our visit announced, 
so as to see the every-day working of the thing. We 
went through quantities of rooms. In all, the Russian 
nurses with their high head-dress (kakoshnik), the col- 
our of the room, were standing, and showed us most 
smilingly their babies. The rooms are all known by 
their colours and the nurses dressed to correspond. All 
pink kakoshniks, for instance, in the pink room, blue 
in the blue room, etc. It was rather effective when 
all the women were standing in groups. The nurses 
were decidedly young, some rather pretty faces, almost 
all fair. The surveillante is a nice, kindly looking 
woman. We saw the whole ceremony. In one of the 
rooms of the rez-de-chaussee we saw several women 
waiting to take the children. The operation is always 
the same — one writes down at once the name and age 
of the child (which is generally written on a piece of 
paper pinned on to the clothes), they are always very 
young, 5 or 6 days old. The.n they are undressed, 
weighed, and carried off by one of the nurses, wrapped up 
in a blanket, to a bath. After the bath they are dressed 
in quite clean, nice garments, and the nurse gives them 
the breast at once. All the rooms, dortoirs, salles-de- 



96 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

bain, laundries, kitchens, are as clean as possible, plenty 
of light and air, and no smells. We met Countess Pahlen 
going out as we came in, also the Arch Duke Charles 
Louis. 

As we still had time before dinner we went to see the 
new church of St. Sauveur, where there is to be a great 
ceremony of consecration to-morrow; but as it is prin- 
cipally to celebrate the retreat of the French Army from 
Moscow the two French Embassies abstain from that 
function. We met there Prince Dolgourouky, Gover- 
nor of Moscow, who did the honours, and showed us the 
marbles, which are very varied and handsome, all from 
the provinces of the Empire. The place was full of work- 
men putting up tribunes, red and gold draperies, etc., 
but the Prince, with much tact, made no allusion to to- 
morrow's function — so we apparently didn't notice any- 
thing unusual in the church, and concentrated our at- 
tention on the beautiful Russian marble. 

ii o'clock. 
I will finish to-night. We have had our second diplo- 
matic dinner, and I found it pleasant, I hope the guests 
did. I had Mgr.* Vannutelli, the Nonce, next to me. He 
is charming — such an easy talker. He arrived after the 
sacre, as of course he could take no part in the cere- 
mony. He told me the dream of his life was to come to 
Paris, and I think he would have a great success. He 
and Prince Orloff talked very easily together, and Orloff 
told him he ought to come to Paris. Orloff also says 
that W. ought to come back here as Ambassador, that 
he would be decidedly % "persona grata," but that isn't 
W.'s impression. He has talked to a good many men 
who are about the Court and the Emperor, and he thinks 
a soldier, not a political man, would be a much better 

* Now cardinal. 



i88 3 ] A VIEW OF MOSCOW 97 

appointment. We shall miss Pontecoulant awfully. He 
is so easy-going and looks after everything, always 
smoothing things over — very necessary in a temporary 
Embassy like this where all pull apart a little, and there 
is a sort of dull friction and rivalry between the soldiers 
and the diplomatists. It is funny to live entirely with a 
quantity of men, but they are all charming to me. 

To H. L. K. 

Ambassade de France, Moscow, 

Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, 

Thursday, June 7th, 1883. 

W. and I have had such a quiet conjugal day that we 
can hardly believe we are still "Ambassadeur Extraordi- 
naire." We breakfasted tete-a-tete, as all the gentlemen 
have gone off to the Convent of St. Serge, which is one 
of the things to see here. They have a very fine tresor. 
The Emperor and Empress made retraite there before 
the sacre. After breakfast W. looked over his des- 
patches, and I played a little some Russian music which 
Benckendorff had given me. 

About three we started off for "les Moineaux," a hill 
near Moscow from which Napoleon had his first view of 
the city. There was no sun, which was a pity, as all the 
colour of Moscow makes it so original and different from 
everything else — however the city looked mysterious and 
poetical in a sort of pink brume. We met various col- 
leagues going the same way — Nigra always in his 
"Troika" (Russian attelage) and the Hunts. Nigra came 
and joined us on the terrace, and we had tea together. 
They offered us a great many things, but we declined 
experiments, and kept on saying "Tchai" (which means 
tea), until they brought it. Nigra told W. he should 



98 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

taste the peculiar brandy of the country which all drink — 
prince and peasant — but I think W. did not like it much. 
Nigra was most agreeable. He is Italian Ambassador to 
Petersburg, and knows everybody. He says Russian 
Society is rather fermee, unless you take their ways and 
hours. All the ladies receive late, after the theatres, 
every evening. It is quite informal — a cup of tea, very 
often music, and really interesting talk. He says the 
women are remarkably intelligent and cultivated — en 
masse cleverer than the men. I wonder if he would go 
as far about them as Lord Lyons did about American 
women. When he came back from America he said he 
had never met a stupid American woman. We had a 
pleasant hour on the terrace, and then started home 
again. 

We crossed the Empress driving with her brother, 
Prince Waldemar, in an ordinary open carriage (har- 
nessed Russian fashion — the three horses) and with no 
escort nor apparent policemen of any kind. She looked 
very well and smiling, and so young. There was not 
much movement on the road — a few carriages and peas- 
ant's carts. As soon as we got into Moscow we fell at 
once into the same staring, quiet crowd; but I fancy 
many people have already gone. The streets were not 
nearly so full. 

I had just time to dress, and dined alone with the 
gentlemen. W. and General Pittie dined with the Nonce, 
Mgr. Vannutelli, and were to go to Countess Pahlen's 
reception afterwards. The expedition to the Convent 
seems to have been very successful, but long. They gave 
them breakfast in the refectory — a very frugal meal — 
and showed them all their treasures. I stayed a little 
while in the serre while they were smoking. Now they 
have all gone out and I am not sorry to finish my even- 



i88 3 ] A FAREWELL AUDIENCE 99 

ing quietly in my little boudoir. I am getting quite ac- 
customed to my little room, with its ugly green and gold 
silk furniture (quite hideous, such a bright, hard green). 
The chairs and sofa are so heavy it takes two of us to 
move them. There are quantities of tables and candles 
(40 or 50 at least, no lamps of any description), in 
branches, double candlesticks, etc. I have great diffi- 
culty in persuading the little Russian maid not to light 
them all, all the time; and when I have about 12 to dress 
by she evidently considers me in the dark absolutely. I 
think I have dressed sometimes with two, quite con- 
tented, in the old days. 

Friday, June 8th. 

I walked about a little with Corcelle this morning. 
We went into one fur shop where we found a woman 
who spoke French, but there was nothing very tempting. 
They all advise us to wait for our furs at Petersburg, all 
the best furs are sent there — however we bought a very 
good fur lining for a driving coat (each of us) and I a 
fur couverture — principally I think because the woman 
was nice, and it was a pleasure to talk ourselves and not 
through the little boy of the Consulate, of whom I am by 
no means sure. 

At 10 o'clock W. had his farewell audience with the 
Emperor, but it wasn't particularly interesting — an in- 
significant conversation — might have been any emperor, 
or any ambassador, of any country. 

After breakfast we went out again "en bande" with a 
new polyglot youth this time — a young Frenchman whom 
Lhermite had discovered. He took us to all sorts of 
places, small shops and bazaars, where we had never 
been. We bought a good many things, Circassian belts 
and buckles of wrought silver, some studded with tur- 
quoises, some enamelled — pretty work — Russian chains 



ioo LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

and crosses, small Madonnas in curious brass frames 
— always the black face on a gold ground, and 
several of those beautiful, light Orenburg shawls, so fine 
that they pass through a ring (we all tried) and yet fairly 
large and warm when one shakes them out to the full 
size. It was rather amusing going in and out of all the 
funny little shops. We left the carriage in one of the 
big streets and walked about. 

Now we have come home. I have had my tea alone 
to-day. I must dress, as we dine early, 7 o'clock, on 
account of our reception afterwards. I went with Lher- 
mite to see the flowers, fruit, bonbons, petits fours, etc., 
which arrived this morning from Paris. It is extraor- 
dinary how fresh they all look. There are dozens of 
boxes in the dining-room and office, and the men are 
putting the flowers all about the rooms, Lhermite super- 
intending the whole thing. He is an enormous help — 
I don't know what we should have done without him. 

I am going to wear my white and silver brocade to- 
night, the one I wore at the Palace gala dinner — my last 
full dress in Moscow. I am rather shaken by my outing 
this afternoon — the going in some of those crooked little 
old streets was something awful. The holes in the so- 
called pavement were appalling, and the paving-stones 
tapered off generally to a sharp point. I think nothing 
but a Russian carriage, driven by a Russian coachman 
could have got along. I must say it is a straggling, 
queer-looking town once you get out of the Kremlin 
and the main streets. The houses are very far apart, 
generally white and low, with large gardens, like a big 
overgrown village. 

Well, Dear, our reception is over. It is ended early, 
as everything does here — and as I am wide awake I will 



i88 3 ] A RECEPTION 101 

write at once. People began to come about 9.30, and 
at 11.30 everyone had gone. The rooms looked well, 
quantities of lights and flowers, everyone noticed the 
flowers (there are so few here), which were heaped up 
everywhere on consoles, mantelpieces, wherever one 
could put them. We had a great many people — all our 
colleagues in full force, but not so many Russians as we 
expected. A good many were de service at the Palace, 
where there was a function of some kind for Russians only 
(the provinces), and I am sure many never received their 
invitations, as it is impossible to find out where anyone 
lives. I had a talk with General Richter and one or two 
others, and then some of the younger members of the 
party suggested dancing — of course we had no music, as 
dancing had not been contemplated, but various amateurs 
offered their services, and they had about half an hour 
of waltzes. At the end they danced a little the Russian 
mazurka, which I was very curious to see. It is quite 
different from our cotillon or the Sir Roger de Coverley. 
There are all sorts of steps and figures. The gentleman 
takes his partner by the hand, holding it rather high (as 
in the polonaise). They hold themselves very straight, 
heads well back, as in a minuet, and do various figures. 
The women have a quick, sliding step when they change 
partners, which is very effective. I should think none 
but Russians would dance it well — one must be born 
to it. 

Prince Orloff stayed on a little after everyone had 
gone, and we talked over all the fetes, and principally 
our own performances. He says he has heard plenty of 
talk and criticisms of everything, and is much pleased 
with the success of our Mission. I hope the people at 
home will be satisfied. 

We had a dinner for all the French newspaper corre- 



io2 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

spondents the other day — and they expressed themselves 
as quite gratified. They told us that one of the cor- 
respondents (I forget which paper) had accepted W.'s 
invitation, but the very day of the dinner there had been 
such a violent attack on W. in his paper that he didn't 
like to come, and sent an excuse. They say the 
Times' account is the best — the Figaro also very good 
(Wolff). 

Saturday, June 9, 1883. 

The court is most amusing this morning — all the 
gentlemen are trying their horses, superintending the 
saddling, etc., as most of them follow the Emperor to-day 
at the revue. The little Russian horses look very lively 
and never stand still an instant. W. and I go together 
in the d'Orsay, Corcelle preceding us in another car- 
riage. Benckendorff rides with all the others. General 
Pittie is rather bored, he hates riding, particularly on a 
horse he doesn't know, so he and Fayet will only mount 
at the Champ de Mars. They say the Emperor's suite 
will be enormous — over 100. I wore my ecru batiste 
with the heavy white embroidery and the ecru bonnet 
with the wreath of pink and red roses. It is almost 
white. (I wonder how I shall ever wear out all these 
garments. ) 

The day is beautiful. We started about 10, as we were 
invited for 1 1 to the X r i Dune Imperiale. The road out 
was a sight — the middle alley had been kept for the 
swells and Court, and there were quantities of Imperial 
and Ambassadors' carriages, aides-de-camp, etc., dashing 
about. I didn't see any handsome private equipages. 
They told me the .reason was that the swells were at- 
tached to the Cour.t and went about always in Court 
carriages. Our gentlemen passed us riding — they had 



i88 3 ] A MILITARY REVIEW 103 

rendezvous in the court-yard of the Palace Petrofski, 
where the Emperor mounted. We went on to the Trib- 
une. The cortege started fairly punctually. First 
came the Empress in a victoria with four white horses. 
The Arch Duchess Charles Louis was seated next to her, 
and on the box the Duchessed'Edimbourg and the Grand 
Duchess Wladimir, I think — at any rate another Prin- 
cess. There were 2 postilions, 2 mounted grooms, and 
a piqueur. Then came the Emperor riding on the right 
of the Empress's carriage, always on his little grey Cos- 
sack horse, the Grand Duke Heritier and the Duke of 
Edinburgh directly behind him, and then a long, glittering 
suite of foreign Princes and officers. The Grand Duke 
Wladimir commands the Gardes, and was on the field to 
receive his brother. It is the first time I have seen the 
Emperor without the Grand Duke Wladimir close be- 
hind him. It was striking to see the stern, watchful face 
always there. The Empress drove up and down the 
lines, the Emperor riding alongside. It was difficult to 
distinguish any uniforms, as they were rather far off, and 
there were clouds of dust. As soon as the Empress had 
passed her revue she came up to the Tribune and took up 
her position directly in front, standing almost all the time. 
The Emperor and his staff remained directly under the 
Tribune to see the defile. That of course was long — but 
we had breakfast, also a sort of gouter always going on, 
and servants appearing at intervals carrying trays with 
tea, chocolate, orangeade, etc. All the Grand Duchesses 
(not the Empress) moved about and talked to us. The 
Duchesse d'Oldenburg sat down next me for some time 
and told me about some of the regiments (Crimean 
fame), named some of the generals, etc. 

I had tea with the Duchess of Edinburgh. She is easy, 
clever, and was much interested in all that was going on, 



io 4 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

told me I must come to the front for the cavalry and Cos- 
sack charge, and that it would be soon. I followed her 
when she made the move — the infantry were just finish- 
ing — and in the distance one saw a movement and a flash 
of lances in the sun, which showed that the Cossacks were 
getting ready. They passed like a whirlwind — so fast, 
and in such clouds of dust that one saw nothing but the 
glint of the lances, neither colour of uniforms, horses, 
flags. All the troops, infantry as well as cavalry, saluted 
the Emperor as they passed — a sort of dull sound, more 
like a groan than a cheer — nothing like a ringing English 
hurrah. 

That was the end, so I went to the Princess Kot- 
choubey, Grande Maitresse, to ask her if I should go and 
take leave of the Empress, as she and the Emperor leave 
Moscow to-morrow. She said the Empress wished us 
all, Ambassadrices and femmes de chefs-de-Mission, to 
stand near the door, and she would say good-bye to us 
on her way out, so we moved down, and after waiting 
a little she came. She made her circle very prettily, 
shook hands with all, and talked a little, but she was evi- 
dently tired and anxious to get away. She was dressed 
in a curious dress, a sort of yellow cloth of gold, and gold 
bonnet with red flowers — always her splendid pearl neck- 
lace. 

We had to wait some little time before our carriages 
could get up, so I went back to the front of the Trib- 
une to see the troops disperse. It was a pretty sight 
as they all filed off in long columns, music playing and 
flags flying, and always little groups of Cossacks tearing 
all over the place. I had another cup of tea with a very 
good little cake while I was waiting. Lady Thornton 
was tired and wanted one, so we sat there quite quietly 
and had our tea. It was a lovely, bright, warm day, and 











gM 






■JC;S 








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y K 


-l^XMt 


^** 






JTI 


> 




_ ' 




j 


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Grand Due Wladimir. 
From a photograph by Bergamasco, St. Petersburg. 



i88 3 ] END OF THE FETES 105 

we liked that better than waiting at the door in the 
crowd until our carriages came. 

We got back to the Embassy for breakfast, but were 
not very hungry. We breakfasted alone with Corcelle, 
as the other gentlemen breakfasted with all the Em- 
peror's suite at the Petrofski Palace. I am writing this 
by fits and starts, as you will perceive. I began at 9 this 
morning, and am finishing now at 10.30, after a pleas- 
ant dinner at the Jaures — merely our two Embassies, 
everyone telling his experiences, amusing enough. The 
Jaures are quite ready to go. He wants to go to 
sea again, and will command the Mediterranean Squad- 
ron, and she is tired of Russia. I have no idea who will 
succeed them, but as long as it isn't W. I don't much 
care. 

Well, our fetes are over. We shall have two days to 
see Moscow quietly, and then break up. It has cer- 
tainly been most interesting, and now that it is over, and 
we all have still our heads on our shoulders, I am very 
glad we came, for I shall never see such a sight again. 

Sunday, June 10th. 

Richard and I made an ineffectual attempt to go to the 
English church this morning, but after driving half over 
Moscow and going to various wrong addresses, which 
had been given to us, we gave it up, and came home 
rather mortified and well jibed at by the whole Embassy. 
Just as we were going to breakfast Prince Ourousoff, one 
of the Chamberlains, appeared to say that two special 
trains would start for Petersburg on Monday and Wed- 
nesday to take back the Corps Diplomatique, and asked 
us which day would suit us best. W. preferred Wed- 
nesday. W. must have a day or two to send off horses, 
carriages, huissiers, cooks, etc., and also to see a little of 



106 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

Moscow, for he has scarcely seen anything. All his days 
were so taken up with the visits — those he made and 
those he received — and his despatches, that he did little 
but his morning ride on his funny little bay horse (which 
he liked very much and which carried him well). 

This afternoon we have been sight-seeing with Benck- 
endorff, first to the Kremlin to see the private apart- 
ments of the Emperor and Empress. The Court, with 
all the foreign Princes and their suites, left last night 
after the revue, and already one sees the difference in the 
streets. The crowd of peasants has disappeared, there are 
fewer carriages, flags and draperies are being removed 
from all the buildings, and the circulation is so easy that 
one can scarcely realize that only yesterday that brilliant 
throng was making its way with difficulty through the 
long, straight allee to the Champ de Mars. It is very 
warm, the sun blazing, and the white dust very trying; 
however we went about a good deal. We saw the Ro- 
manoff house, an ordinary boyar house, with low, dark 
rooms and a funny little winding staircase, but it had 
evidently been quite done up (in the style of the epoch 
of course), and I didn't find it very interesting. 

We went into numerous churches and towers, and 
wound up with a visit to the Monastere Siminoff, from 
where there is a splendid view over the city. We saw 
the Director, who came out and showed us everything. 
We dined quietly at home with the Embassy only. After 
dinner, when smoking in the serre, the soldiers began 
talking, fighting their battles over again — all that hor- 
rible time between the Commune and Versailles, where 
one of our Embassy, Fayet, was wounded. It is always 
interesting when they talk seriously like that, but, Heav- 
ens, how they shot people at the end, it makes one shiver. 

To-morrow will be a busy day, as all the packing must 



i88 3 ] PREPARING FOR DEPARTURE 107 

be done. One of the French couturieres here will send a 
packer, and will come herself to help the maids. Lher- 
mite, with his cooks, footmen, etc., start Wednesday 
morning early. They must cook us our last dinner Tues- 
day night. Hubert, too, with carriages, horses, etc. 

To H. L. K. 

Ambassade de France a Moscow, 
Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, 
Monday, June nth, 1883. 

Well, Dear, this is my last letter from Moscow — you 
will certainly never again have any letter from Maison 
Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, and I suppose I shall never 
see Moscow again. The court is again most lively (it 
is certainly an unfailing interest to me, and I am always 
looking out of the window). Someone has come from 
one of the Grand Dukes, Michel, I think, to see the big 
horses. Hawes was very anxious we should sell them in 
Russia, if we could get a fair price. They have always 
excited much attention and admiration, but they are very 
big, and here the Russians are accustomed to a much 
smaller race, prefer three small ones to one larger pair. 
I don't know either if they could stand the climate. 
There seems to be a perfect army of helpers packing car- 
riages, saddles, harness, and all the stable equipment. 
Mdme. Gille (my couturiere) has arrived. She has made 
me a very nice little blue foulard shirt, I couldn't stand 
my cloth body these hot days, and yet must travel in 
that dress, as I have no other. When I think of the 
furs that have always remained at the bottom of one of 
the trunks — so many people told me that it would be 
impossible to be in Russia in May and June without 
furs. It is fair to say that Mdme. Jaures told me it was 



108 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

freezing still the morning they left Petersburg — which 
seems incredible now. I send back all my big trunks 
and swell garments with the Huberts. I shall keep out 
only one or two dinner dresses for Petersburg. Poor 
Mdme. Hubert is rather sad at leaving me, and going 
back to France without having seen Petersburg, but of 
course I don't want two maids any longer. 

This afternoon I went out with Richard for some last 
shopping. The city is completely changed — not a 
creature nor a carriage, nor servants in livery, nothing 
but a deserted city. We met the Austrian Ambassador 
walking about in a blue flannel vest and a pot hat. The 
courts of the Kremlin were meconnaissables, not a soul, 
hardly a soldier — one or two small detachments of Cos- 
sacks at the gates. It is an extraordinary change in such 
a short time. It has become a sleepy little provincial 
town. 

We had two or three gentlemen to dinner, M. d'Orval, 
ancien officier de Chasseurs, just back from a tour in 
the Caucasus with the Due de Chartres, and a Russian 
merchant for whom Richard had letters — the first per- 
son I have seen in Russia who was neither noble nor 
peasant. Both men were interesting enough. The Rus- 
sian talked prudently, but fairly openly — said there must 
be a great change — things couldn't go on as they did 
now, there was a young generation to be reckoned with, 
active, educated, intelligent, and they must have their 
say — that when the uprising came there would be a 
Revolution such as Europe had never seen. I wonder. 

After dinner we went to the Hermitage, the great pub- 
lic gardens. They are pretty enough, large, with trees 
and bosquets, and every variety of amusement — theatres, 
concerts, dancing, and even conjurors. Some shep- 
herds from the Wladimir Government with long yellow 



i88 3 ] IN THE PUBLIC GARDENS 109 

cloaks and high hats were playing a sort of reed pipe, 
curious enough. At last I heard some of the Russian 
national songs — a quartette was singing them in one 
of the theatres. They are very pretty, monotonous, with 
an undercurrent of sadness. They sang very true, and 
the voices are rich, not at all the thin, high northern 
voice that one expected to hear. We stayed there so 
long, looking at the various things, that we didn't get 
home until 12.30 — much the latest entertainment I have 
been to in Moscow, except the Palace ball, where the 
suppper of course prolonged the festivities. 

Monday, June nth. 

It was so warm to-day and I had so much to do with 
the trunks — separating the things — that I only went out 
after tea, and of course did a little more shopping. I 
wanted some photographs and also some music — how- 
ever Benckendorff said he would see about that for me. 
We dined quite alone with the Embassy — a good din- 
ner perfectly served, tho' Lhermite leaves to-morrow. 
He came up to get his last instructions from W. while 
we were having tea. His experiences are most amusing 
— he says he has learnt a great deal of the language and 
the Russian ways of doing business, and if ever he comes 
back he will know how to take care of himself. He be- 
came quite excited at remembering various occasions 
when he had been "roule." 

After dinner W. and I went for a last drive, to look 
at the Kremlin by moonlight — and beautiful it was — the 
sky was so blue one could almost see it like the Italian 
summer sky, and all the great white buildings and tow- 
ers stood out gloriously. The great church of St. Basile 
was extraordinary. The colours, pink, green, red, yellow, 
all so vivid that even at night one quite made them out. 



no LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

It is a mass of towers, domes, and cupolas, every one 
different in shape, work, and colour. It was planned and 
executed by an Italian architect, and the story is that the 
Czar (of the epoch) was so pleased, and at the same 
time so afraid he might make another like it, that he had 
his eyes put out. It was curiously dark and quiet in- 
side — scarcely any light; here and there a glimmer high 
up in one of the Palace rooms. We met two or three 
carriages with colleagues driving about in the moonlight 
like ourselves. The river, too, looked beautiful from the 
terrace — a broad silver band with moonlight full upon it. 
I took a last look at the black Madonnna in the gate- 
way, and the little guard of Cossacks. I shall often think 
of that last night in the Kremlin when I have returned 
to civilization and modern life. 

I will send this off by to-morrow's courier. My next 
letter will be from Petersburg. My little boudoir still 
looks very nice. The little Russian maid is rather sad, 
and has been in and out 20 times, lighting candles, open- 
ing and shutting doors and windows, and keeping up a 
stream of conversation which I can't possibly understand, 
though the maids say they do. W. is deep in last de- 
spatches, and has departed to his own quarters. I 
haven't learnt any Russian, which I think is rather weak 
on my part. I thought I would have some lessons at 
first, but I don't think I could have learnt much in two 
weeks. Lagrene was discouraging — says he knows very 
little, and his mother is a Russian. 



i88 3 ] ARRIVAL IN PETERSBURG m 



To H. L. K. 

Hotel Demouth, Petersburg, 
Jeudi, 14 Juin, 1883. 

We arrived here last night at 12.30. The journey was 
comfortable enough, but long — the Russian trains do 
not go a terrifying pace. We left Moscow at 9.30, and 
the Maison Klein a little before 9. The depart was 
quite imposing — all the personnel drawn up at the foot 
of the stairs, Lhermite and the three coachmen outside 
at the door, and a regiment of understrappers of all 
kinds. The little Russian maid was weeping and kissing 
my skirts. The faithful Benckendorff accompanied us to 
the station and saw us safely deposited in our wagon- 
salon — each Ambassador had one and a smaller one for 
the suite. Two Chamberlains, not attired in velvet and 
gold lace this time, — I felt rather aggrieved at having 
ordinary mortals in plain clothes to look after us — were 
waiting at the station to see that everything was well 
done, and they went with us to Petersburg. There was 
a Mongole at the door of our wagon who appeared at 
intervals with tea, oranges, and much information of all 
kinds (in Russian). We had all our meals en route 
— breakfast at 11, dinner at 4.30, a nondescript sort of 
meal, half gouter, half supper, with cold fish, fowl, may- 
onnaise, etc., at 8 — and a very pretty little tea at 10.30. 
We all partook of every meal — how we managed to eat 
chicken and mayonnaaise at 8, having dined at 4.30, 
seems a mystery, but we did. 

It was very hot at starting — the sun pouring down on 
the plains that are around Moscow — not an atom of 
shade, but there was a sharp shower about 2 which cooled 
the air. They tell us Petersburg too is very hot. The 



ii2 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

day passed quickly enough. Many of our colleagues 
came and paid us visits. The Nuncio sat a long time. 
He is most interesting, with that delightful, simple, easy 
Italian manner. He asked us a great deal about the re- 
ligious ceremony the day of the Coronation. He had 
only arrived after that. He is very clever and sympa- 
thetic, ready to talk about anything, and so moderate 
in his views. I think he would have a great success in 
Paris, where people love to discuss and analyze every- 
thing. 

Our Spanish colleague also came and sat with us. It 
seems he wanted W. to come to his carriage and drink 
champagne and play cards (very high play too), but it 
was conveyed to him that these were not exactly M. 
Waddington's tastes. Rumour says he was naively sur- 
prised, and said, "Comment, il ne joue pas! — le pauvre 
homme !" They were certainly a very merry party — we 
heard roars of laughter every time the train stopped. 
If anyone was losing heavily he took it most cheerfully. 

Our last little tea at 10.30 was really very pretty — 
several round tables very well arranged with flowers, tea, 
orangeade, and other drinks — cakes, petits fours, etc. 
(but no more solid food). W. struck and wouldn't get 
out, but Richard and I and the rest of the men were quite 
ready to see what was going on. Do you remember 
how I always loved getting out at all the buffets at no 
matter what time of night, when we used to go down to 
Italy every year? I think the buffet at Bologna with 
its "fricandeau de veau" is one of my most interesting 
souvenirs of travel (not from an artistic point of view). 

The arrival at Petersburg was curious. It was quite 
light, and there were as many people at the station and 
in the streets as if it were 12 o'clock in the day. We read 
distinctly the names and numbers of the streets and the 



i88 3 ] IN THE HERMITAGE 113 

signs of the shops, and yet it wasn't altogether daylight — 
more like a late summer afternoon. We found very 
comfortable rooms here — a large salon with large bed- 
rooms on either side, and a room next to me for Ade- 
laide. I was quite ready to go to bed — the heat and dust 
were trying, and yet it seemed funny to go to bed by 
daylight. They brought tea of course, but we really 
couldn't do any more, so I departed to my own room. 
There I quite lost the impression of daylight, as there 
were double, even triple curtains to all the windows. 

This morning we slept late and breakfasted at 12.30, 
then W., Richard, and I went off in a carriage to the 
Hermitage (the great Museum). W. sent in his card to 
the Director of the Museum and also to the head of the 
Cabinet des Medailles, as he wants a week's work at the 
medals. It seems there is a splendid collection here. 
The gentlemen were very civil, and we made rendezvous 
for to-morrow, W. for the medals and Richard and I for 
the pictures. The Hermitage is an immense museum. 
We shall only be able to have an idea of what is in it. 
We walked through some of the rooms — Peter the 
Great's gallery, which is full of course of souvenirs — his 
clothes, arms, tools, furniture, horse stuffed, etc., and in 
another there were quantities of bibelots of all kinds, and 
presents given to Peter and Catherine II — a collection of 
snuff boxes, crystal flagons, and goblets (some with 
precious stones encrusted in the glass), jewelled belts and 
caps — most interesting. 

We had our first view of the Neva from the windows of 
one of the rooms. It rushes past like the sea, so broad 
and strong, with very fair waves, a splendid river. We 
stayed about an hour lounging through the rooms, and 
then went on for a general view of the city. It is very 
handsome, but has no particular cachet (except the 



ii4 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

Neva) at this season of the year — one ought to see it in 
winter when the river is frozen and the real winter life be- 
gins. It looks so modern after Moscow. We went to 
the great cathedral of St. Isaac. It is very big and im- 
posing as a mass, but the architecture not very striking 
— afterwards to the fortress and church of St. Peter and 
St. Paul, where all the Emperors are buried — to Peter 
the Great's house (a most ordinary little wooden build- 
ing), drove a little along the quais, where the lovely fresh 
breeze from the river was most welcome and invigorat- 
ing after the heat and dust of Moscow. 

There was a good deal of life on the river, boats of all 
kinds. We think of going by steamer to Stockholm, 
all along the coast of Finland. They tell us it is a beauti- 
ful journey, particularly at this time of year, with the 
long, clear evenings. I want to see the boat before we 
decide, as I have an idea that it wouldn't be very clean 
(they say the boats on the rivers Volga, etc., are some- 
thing terrible). We wound up in the Perspective 
Nevsky — the great shopping street, but didn't get out 
of the carriage, merely drove through. The shops look 
handsome and the vitrines well arranged, just like Paris. 
There was very little animation in the streets and very 
few carriages. They tell us many people have already 
gone away for the summer. 

We dined quietly at the hotel, and just as we were 
finishing Admiral Jaures came in to suggest that we 
should dine at Peterhof to-morrow afternoon. He says 
it is a very nice excursion — a short hour on the boat, and 
we can get a fair dinner there. About 9.30 we started 
again in the carriage to drive to the Islands or "La 
Pointe" — the great rendezvous in summer of all Peters- 
burg. It is a long hour's drive, crossing quantities of 
small islands all connected by bridges, and one finally 



i88 3 ] THE ISLANDS 115 

arrives at the "Pointe," end of the drive, and entrance of 
the Gulf of Finland. There all the carriages draw up, 
the people get down and walk about, or sit on the 
benches at the water's edge — a regular salon — in sum- 
mer one sees all the people who are still "en ville" there. 
The place in itself is not at all pretty. The water of the 
Gulf is grey, the banks low, no trees — but the air was 
delicious. 

We met almost all our Moscow colleagues — also 
Princess Lise Troubetzkoi, who was delighted to see W. 
and plunge into Paris politics. She wanted us to go 
back and have tea with her, but it was 11 o'clock and 
I was tired, having been going all day — evidently that is 
what people do, as several of our colleagues too asked 
us, and expressed great surprise at our wanting to go 
home so early. 

We didn't get back to the hotel until 12, and then 
loitered a little in the salon, as the windows were open, 
people walking and driving about the streets, and 
nothing to make us think it was midnight, or at least the 
midnight we are accustomed to. They brought us some 
tea, and a little before one, making many excuses, I re- 
tired, rather feeling as if I were going to bed with the 
chickens. 

Friday, June 15th. 

We have been all the morning at the Hermitage, and 
I will write a little now after breakfast, before we start 
for Peterhof. We took ourselves off early in a droshky 
(Russian fiacre), the porter telling the coachman where 
to drive to; and telling us how much to give him. It 
was a lovely morning, not too warm, and we enjoyed 
our drive. W. was shown at once to the Cabinet des 
Medailles, where the Conservateur was waiting for him, 



n6 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

and Richard and I were taken in hand by a young man 
attached to the Museum who knew his work well, and 
was remarkably intelligent, speaking French quite well. 
The pictures are beautiful — there are quantities of every 
possible school. The finest we thought the Van Dycks 
and the Rembrandts, though some of the Italian Madon- 
nas were lovely too. I like the Italian Madonna face so 
much — it is so pure and young and passionless. Our 
guide was very talkative, and very anxious to know what 
we thought of the Moscow ceremonies. We stayed 
about two hours, seeing all sorts of things "en passant" 
besides the pictures. The whole Museum is crowded — • 
I don't think they could get much more in. 

Saturday, June 16th. 

Our excursion to Peterhof was delightful yesterday 
afternoon. We took the four o'clock boat, and had a 
nice sail down of an hour and a quarter. The Jaures 
came with us, also Pittie, Fayet, and Calmon. Cor- 
celle went back to Paris from Moscow — also Sesmaisons, 
so our Mission is decidedly diminished. We met several 
of our Moscow friends on the boat — General Richter, 
Comte Worontzoff, and some others. The Court is at 
Peterhof and they are all established there. They told 
us the Emperor and Empress were not very tired after 
the excitement and emotions of the Coronation — very 
happy that all had gone so smoothly, and now quite 
pleased to be quietly at Peterhof with their children. 

The Russians are very proud of Peterhof, call it a 
"petit Versailles," and "petit" it certainly is in com- 
parison; but the park is pretty, well laid out, with ter- 
races and gardens, and the water-works really very good 
indeed. A very good Circassian band was playing, and 
a good many people walking about. What was lovely 



i88 3 ] AN EXCURSION TO PETERHOF 117 

and quite unlike Versailles were the glimpses of the sea 
one had on all sides. We got carriages and drove all 
about. We went into the big Palace, where the present 
Emperor never lives. He prefers a small place, half farm, 
half cottage, close to the sea, and lives there quite con- 
tentedly and quietly like an ordinary country gentleman. 
However we couldn't get anywhere near that villa — the 
gates and alleys were closed, and guards and soldiers 
everywhere. 

We dined very badly at a restaurant we had been told 
of on the sea, and took the 10 o'clock boat home. The 
return was enchanting — a beautiful starlight night, and 
fresh, soft breeze. I had a nice talk with Mdme. Jaures, 
who told me a good deal of Russian ways and life. I 
think she is glad to go back to France, and "au fond" 
there are very few French women who care to live 
abroad altogether. After three or four years they get 
homesick for their own country. She asked me if I was 
never homesick for America — but I told her I had been 
so long away, and my life had been such a full one that 
I sometimes asked myself was I the same little girl that 
used to run wild in the country at home with a donkey 
cart and a big Newfoundland dog. Those years seem so 
long ago the memory is getting duller. Sometimes I 
shut my eyes and see quite well the big white house with 
the piazzas, and the climbing roses, the cherry trees, and 
the white gate with the sharp turn, and the ditch where 
we upset so often in the sleighs — all the children tum- 
bling out into the snow drift, and nobody minding. 

We got home at 11.30 and found letters, which we 
read quite easily at the window. It is a wonderful light 
— no one ever seems to think of going to bed. 

This morning we have been again at the Hermitage to 
finish the pictures. Decidedly the Rembrandts are the 



n8 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

gems of the collection. There was one old man in a sort 
of fur robe and cap, with a wrinkled yellow face, whose 
eyes seemed quite alive, and followed us all round the 
room. We left W. with his medals and a sort of clerk 
attached to the Cabinet des Medailles. It seems they 
never leave anybody alone in the room with the medals. 
W. is delighted, he has found some rare coins he had 
never seen, and he means to have a good day's work, 
will not come back to breakfast with us. 

Our young man, Baron Leeven, is always with us, and 
meets us at the Winter Palace this afternoon to show us 
the rooms. Our Mission is dwindling; Fayet went 
off this morning, Pittie and Calmon go Monday. Rich- 
ard remains to make the journey with us to Stock- 
holm by sea. We have just come in from a pleasant 
dinner at the Juares'. The Embassy is small, but very 
well arranged, and we had a very good, handsome din- 
ner. All the personnel of the Embassy, Vannutelli and 
his two auditeurs, and the French Consul and his wife. 
Admiral Juares was very hospitable and en train — all 
sailors are, I wonder why? The officers of high rank 
must have so many lonely hours, and are such swells 
on their ships, where no one can associate much with 
them, that one would think it would make them rather 
silent and reserved from long habit — but it is quite the 
contrary. In all nations sailors are generally cultivated, 
and good talkers. 

We shall become quite intimate with Vannutelli. We 
met him at the Winter Palace this afternoon, and went 
all about together. I can't say I found it very interest- 
ing. The rooms are handsome — high, generally white, 
with quantities of pictures — the portraits, some very old 
ones, interesting — the large modern pictures of battles 
by sea and land less so. I like very much the pictures of 



i88 3 ] AT THE WINTER PALACE 119 

Peter the Great. He has a keen, striking face, must have 
had splendid eyes, very intelligent, in some of the por- 
traits almost inspired, hard, not cruel. They were very 
anxious to show us the rooms where the late Emperor 
died, but there had been some mistake, and the man who 
has charge of the room could not be found, nor the key 
either. I was very glad (not that I shouW have gone 
in), for they said it was a horrid sight — the camp-bed 
and even his clothes left as they were, thick with blood, 
He was carried there directly after the attentat, and died 
on the little camp-bed. What I liked best was the splen- 
did view again of the Neva from the windows of the ball- 
room. It looked a beautiful blue sea, the waves dancing 
in the afternoon light, and all the white sails standing out 
well in the sun. The two young men who were with us 
were most amusing. They showed us all the pictures in 
detail except those concerning the Grande Armee and the 
disastrous retreat. We were hurried past them, "rien de 
tres interessant, Madame — pas la peine de s'arreter ." 

Sunday, June 17th. 

This morning we went to the French Protestant 
Church — a large room with white walls, and benches. 
There were very few people, but they tell us it is fairly 
full in winter. There is a large French colony — shop- 
keepers, theatre people, etc., and a great many Protes- 
tants. The Pasteur preached a very fair, sensible ser- 
mon. 

After breakfast we had some visitors — Sir Edward 
Thornton, who wants us to dine one night; and a nice 
man, a Russian (whose name I never knew), but who 
told us to come to this hotel in which he is interested, 
and who has offered to go shopping with us one day. 
and show us the best fur-shops. We went for a drive 



i2o LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

in the afternoon to the Park Catherine, where a sort of 
fete populaire was going on. There were a great many 
people, and a great many policemen (as there always are 
here), one would think they lived in perpetual fear of an 
emeute, and yet the people all looked so subdued and re- 
pressed — I haven't seen one fierce face. The quantity 
of moujiks in their red shirts made a good effect of 
colour, but the women are not attractive, nor pretty. 
All are wrapped up in shawls, with a handkerchief over 
their heads. 

We had a pleasant dinner at the Hunts' (United States 
Legation), all their people, including of course George 
Wurts, whom I was very pleased to see again — Admiral 
Baldwin and his two Aides-de-camp Rogers and Paul, 
and M. et Mdme. de Struve. They are just going to 
America — he is named Minister there. They have been 
in Japan, and didn't seem very keen about America. I 
should think they would like it better than Japan, but I 
believe he hoped for some post in Europe. She was 
very amusing, and from her account life in Japan must 
still be very primitive. 

We came away early — about 10.30 — and have been 
poring over guide-books ever since, making out our 
journey, always at the window (11 o'clock at night, and 
with no lamps). 

Tuesday, June 19th. 

We had a charming afternoon yesterday at Cronstadt 
on the Lancaster, Admiral Baldwin's flag-ship. He had 
invited all the Corps Diplomatique, and the few Russians 
who are still in Petersburg, Jomini, Struve, Bencken- 
dorff, etc. We started about 3.30 in the regular Rus- 
sian steamer, and once under way the breeze was deli- 
cious. I wore my white batiste with Valenciennes, and 



i88 3 ] ON AN AMERICAN FRIGATE 121 

a big black hat (which wasn't very practical on the 
steamer, as the wind blew the feathers about consider- 
ably, but I thought it looked so nice with the white 
dress) . The American ship looked beautiful as we drew 
near — an old-fashioned frigate, all dressed with flags. 
The getting on board was not very easy, as she lay far 
out, and we had to get into small boats from our 
steamer and go out to her. It didn't look very pleas- 
ant when they put the steps down and told us to jump. 
There were fair waves, and when they told us to jump 
the boat was apparently nowhere near, but of course 
swung under the steps on the top of the wave at the 
right moment. Lady Thornton got down all right, so 
did I; but one of our colleagues had a most trying time. 
She was stout and nervous, looked wretched when she 
was standing on the steps between two strong sailors 
who told her to jump. She did her best, poor thing, and 
several times we in the boat below saw a stout white leg 
suddenly descend, but it was immediately drawn back, 
and she never let go of her sailors. Her husband, man- 
like, was furious, which of course made her much more 
nervous; however, after several attempts she gave it up, 
and they lowered her in an arm-chair, which didn't look 
quite comfortable either when it was suspended in the 
air waiting for the boat to arrive. 

We danced about well in the little boat, for every time 
it came up, and she didn't come down, we had to go back 
and repeat the performance. The American Legation 
got off first and were received by a salute of 15 guns, and 
then we followed. The Admiral with all his officers re- 
ceived us at the top of the ladder, and the band played 
our national airs, and they gave the Ambassador's salute, 
17 guns, and a great noise it made just over our heads 
as we were mounting the ladder. Lady Thornton and 



122 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

her husband were in front of me, and I heard the "God 
Save The Queen" — then came the "Marseillaise," and 
for a moment I forgot I was a Frenchwoman and looked 
to see whom the "Marseillaise" was for (W. hadn't come 
in the boat with me, waited for the second one), but I 
recovered myself in time to bow and smile my thanks. 

I was delighted to find myself on an American ship, 
I so rarely see American officers of any kind. The ship 
was in splendid condition, so beautifully clean. We had 
a very handsome dinner in the Admiral's cabin. He 
took me down to see the table before all the guests came, 
and very pretty it looked, quantities of flowers and some 
handsome silver. No one enjoyed the day more than 
Mgr. Vannutelli. He had a little doubt about coming, 
as he heard there was to be dancing, and consulted us 
about it. We told him the dancing would be mild, and 
he might never have a chance to see a big American 
ship again, and strongly advised him to come. 

While Lady Thornton and I were sitting together one 
of the young officers came up to her (she knew several 
"of them, as they were some years in Washington) saying 
he heard one of the Ambassadresses was an American, 
did she know which one, and could she introduce him. 
"Certainly," she said, "it is Madame Waddington, wife 
of the French Ambassador, who is sitting next to me 
now," and immediately presented the young man, who 
said he had been looking at all the ladies to see which 
was the American, but hadn't placed me, he supposed 
because he heard me speaking French. We became 
great friends, and he took me all over the ship. We 
danced a little on deck — a quadrille d'honneur — I with 
my friend Schimmelpenninck, Lady Thornton with 
Jaures, Madame Jaures with Admiral Baldwin. Then we 
left the dancing to the young ones and sat quietly on 



i88 3 ] AN INCIDENT IN MILAN 123 

deck till it was time to go. Just as we were starting the 
Admiral asked me if I would say a few words to the band 
— they were almost all Italians. I went over at once and 
talked to them, so did the Nuncio, which of course de- 
lighted them. 

We started back about 9 in a special Russian steamer. 
The sea was much calmer, and the getting off one boat 
and on another was not such a difficult operation even 

for poor Mdme. A . The sail back was about two 

hours — quite enchanting in that beautiful northern twi- 
light, and we were all sorry when it came to an end. 

This morning it is very warm, and I am rather seedy, 
so I have stayed quietly at home. Richard and I break- 
fasted tete-a-tete, as W. was off at an early hour to his 
medals, and won't be back until dark. I wonder if the 
Russian officials will be as astonished at his capacity for 
a long spell of work as the Italians were. They struck 
after two days of such work, and then took it in turns. 
One day at Milan I went to get him at the end of the 
day, as we were going to drive somewhere in the country, 
so the Italian smiled all over, and almost winked, saying, 
"Ah, Madame est venue voir si Monsieur etait vraiment 
aux Medailles toute la journee." I suppose he felt that 
he wouldn't have stayed working all those hours, and 
also quite understood that I suspected W. of doing 
something else. 

We have had a nice visit from Benckendorff, who has 
told us all about the boat we want to take to go to 
Stockholm. He says they are Swedish boats, very clean, 
and very good food; also very few people at this time 
of the year. 

Now I must dress and go with Richard to pay some 
visits. Calmon will go and see you and give you all our 
news. He won't tell you what I will, that he had a great 



124 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

success in Moscow — his artillery uniform, the astrakhan 
tunique, was very becoming — all the ladies found him 
"tres beau garcon." I must add too that Richard also 
had a great success — evidently artillery uniform is be- 
coming. It was rather amusing to see the face of one of 
the young ladies when I made some reference to Ma- 
dame Richard Waddington. "M. Waddington married — ■ 
I never should have dreamed of it" — and after a moment, 
"What is his wife like?" doubtfully. "Is she pretty?" 
"Well, yes, she is very pretty." Richard won't tell you 
that either when he comes back, but I shall tell Louise. 

How curious all the Moscow life will seem when I am 
settled again at Bourneville — walking in the park with 
the children, riding all over the country with W., and 
leading an absolutely quiet life. I hope I shall remem- 
ber all I want to tell you. 



To H. L. K. 

Hotel Demoult, Petersburg, 
Wednesday, June 20th, 1883. 

Richard and I went visiting yesterday. We found the 
Thorntons, who gave us tea. Their Embassy is charm- 
ing — a big house on the Quai Anglais. The drawing- 
rooms are large and high. All the windows look out 
on the Neva, and they say it is quite beautiful at night. 
Then we went back to the hotel, got W., who had had a 
fine morning with his medals — says the collection is mag- 
nificent, much larger than he had any idea of, and started 
off to the Quais to see our boat. We leave to-morrow 
evening between 6 and 7. It looked very nice and clean, 
and the Captain was quite overwhelmed with the dis- 
tinguished passengers he was to have the honour of 



i88 3 ] LAST DAYS IN PETERSBURG 125 

transporting. We have an enormous cabin (two thrown 
into one) big enough for a family. I interviewed the 
stewardess, a nice fresh-looking Norwegian woman. 
Conversation was rather difficult, as I spoke German 
and she Norwegian, and neither of us understood the 
other, but I am sure we shall get on very well. They 
tell us the voyage is enchanting, all in and out of small 
fiords, islands, and narrow rivers. We stop five or six 
hours each day to see the country, and never have any 
sea until we cross to Stockholm, when it is generally 
rough. 

We dined quietly at the hotel with Coutouly, our 
Consul, a very nice man, very intelligent. He too had 
interviewed the Captain, and told him to take every care 
of us. He says the trip is enchanting, and the two Fin- 
nish towns, Helsingfors and Abo, very well worth seeing. 
About 10 o'clock we drove off to the "Pointe" and had 
a pleasant hour with some of the colleagues. It is al- 
ways cool there, and the drive out is interesting, so unlike 
anything else. 

Richard went off early this morning with Sermet and 
Moulin of the French Embassy to see the Falls of 
Sinatra, which are said to be very fine. We pick him 
up at Helsingfors. 

I walked about a little with Adelaide — I never see 
anything the least like a femme du monde in the streets. 
I suppose the "societe" are away for the summer, and 
the streets look rather as September streets do in Paris. 

W. and I dined at the Thorntons' — handsome and 
pleasant. Jaures was there, not his wife, she has already 
started for Paris, and the Ternaux Compans, a nice young 
menage (just married) attached to the Embassy. She 
was very well dressed, in white. There was also the 
Danish Minister (I forget his name). He is a friend of 



126 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

the Empress and tres bien vu a la cour. After dinner 
someone played on the piano, and he and Mary Thorn- 
ton danced a little, showing us some of the figures of the 
mazurka. Lady Thornton says, like everyone else, that 
the society of Petersburg is very ferme. They know 
everybody, but I fancy very few of the diplomatists make 
real friends with anyone. I was rather surprised, as the 
Russians one meets abroad are generally very easy and 
sociable. She also finds the climate very trying. She 
showed me all the rooms, which are charming. In all 
the bedrooms very thick curtains, as the light is most 
trying, and of course people who live there must have 
regular hours for sleep — for us birds of passage it is of 
no consequence, and going to bed seems the last thing 
one would think of doing in Petersburg. 

We came home about n, and now W. is busy over 
his Paris letters, also putting his notes in order, as he 
has finished with the medals. He has had three or four 
days of real hard work, but says it rested him after all the 
Court festivities. 

Jeudi, 21 Juin. 

We have been shopping all the morning, — W. and I 
and M. Lomatch (I have found his name). We bought, 
among other things, a sled for Francis — I haven't seen 
one since I left America — and a good deal of Russian 
lace, which they say is very solid, and embroidery. We 
came back to a late breakfast, and I am writing now at 
the last moment while they are carrying down the trunks. 
We are going at 4 to the steamer to leave our boxes 
and Adelaide, and install ourselves, and then go for tea 
to Coutouly, who has an apartment on the Quai, just op- 
posite the wharf where the steamer starts from. I am 
quite sorry to go. We are very comfortable here, and 



i88 3 ] AT SEA 127 

the streets are so amusing. I should like once to hear a 
little laughing and singing, as the various groups of 
work-people, soldiers, and peasants pass — but they are a 
curiously sad, subdued race. 

Friday, June 22d. " En mer." 
We are just approaching Helsingfors (twelve o'clock), 
where we go on shore for some hours, and I will write 
a little. I have a nice straw arm-chair on deck (the sail 
shades me), a table with books, papers, etc. We em- 
barked at 6.30 yesterday. We went on the boat about 
4 — saw the Captain, a very nice man, a Finn, who speaks 
English quite well, and who is much pleased to have us 
on his boat. He went down to the cabin with us, which 
is really a large, airy room, with two very fair beds, and 
a sort of recess which makes a dressing-room. It opens 
into the ladies' cabin, where he had also arranged the end 
near our cabin for us — two arm-chairs, a table, etc. Ade- 
laide has a nice state-room just opposite — also Richard. 
There were not many people on board — and he said he 
hadn't many passengers, chiefly men. 

We left cloaks, books, etc., and walked across to the 
Coutoulys', who have a nice apartment directly on the 
river. It is so broad and swift one feels almost as if one 
was on the sea-shore. There is much passing all the 
time, and a good many little posts, as at Venice, where 
the boats are tied. They gave us tea, and about 6 we 
went back to the boat. 

Jaures was there with some of his young men, and 
Benckendorff, who came to say a last good-bye this time. 
We gave him rendezvous in Paris, as we should like very 
much to do something for him. He was untiring and 
devoted to us all the time we were at Moscow — never 
tired, always taking a great deal of trouble to see that 



i28 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

we were well taken care of, and helping us in every way. 
I found three or four handsome bouquets in the cabin — 
one from him, and one from M. Lomatch, the proprietor 
of our hotel. He has written to the hotel at Stockholm 
for rooms for us. We arrive Sunday morning — have 
three nights at sea. Adelaide is quite excited at the 
prospect of a real voyage "en mer." 

We had a very good supper about 8.30, just as we 
were passing Cronstadt. We have made a very nice 
arrangement for our meals. The idea of a table-d'hote 
with all the people who are on board (many more than 
I thought) was appalling, so we are to have all our 
meals half an hour before the others at a small table in 
the dining-room. It is a most satisfactory arrange- 
ment, and we had a nice quiet hour on deck while 
the other passengers were supping. It was a lovely 
evening — the sea absolutely calm, and so warm I hardly 
needed my cloak. We sat late on deck. They brought 
us a table with tea and Swedish punch, which seems to 
be the favourite drink here. 

The passengers all came up after their supper. They 
were quiet enough — all had tea, punch, and cigars, and 
a great many played cards. The men look like commis- 
voyageurs, or small shopkeepers — almost all, I should 
think, Swedes or Norwegians. There are three or four 
English women and girls, governesses, the Captain tells 
me, going to Stockholm and Christiania. 

We went down to our cabin about 12 — always the 
same curious grey light. I slept perfectly well. It 
seemed to me there was a little roulis about 3 o'clock 
(I heard a clock strike somewhere), but it was only pleas- 
ant. I was up at 8 and had my tea and toast in the 
ladies' cabin close to a port-hole, and was rather sorry 
I hadn't had it on deck. I went up as soon as I had 



i88 3 ] HELSINGFORS 129 

finished. We were passing through a series of little 
bays, all dotted over with islands, some fairly large, some 
merely a granite rock with a pine tree on it. 

Saturday, June 23d. " En mer." 
I was interrupted yesterday by the Captain, who came 
to get us to stand on the passerelle with him and see the 
approach to Helsingfors. The bay has widened out into 
a sea, and the harbour seems important. There are lots 
of ships and steamers — also small boats going backwards 
and forwards between them and the quais. The men in 
the boats wear a red cap, something like the Neapolitan 
fishermen. The town stands out well — there are high 
cliffs rising straight out of the sea, and a great many 
steeples (not the green and pink cupolas of Moscow). 

We found Richard and our Consul waiting for us on 
the Quai, and we drove at once to the hotel, and break- 
fasted. The steamer remains until 12 o'clock to-night, 
so we have ample time to see the town. Just as we were 
finishing breakfast a gentleman appeared, a director of 
something (Postes et Telegraphes, I think) who came 
to do the honours in the absence of the Governor. He 
had an open carriage with a pair of nice little Russian 
horses, and drove us all over the town. Helsingfors is 
the capital of Finland, and I believe flourishing enough. 
The town is small and rambling — entirely surrounded 
by water, and quantities of little islands connected by 
bridges. I think we must have crossed about 20. Some 
of the villas are large with nice gardens. The Director 
showed us his, which looked pretty and comfortable. 
The streets are narrow — not much movement. The 
names of the streets are written in three languages — 
Russian, Swedish, Finnish. All the functionaries are 
Russian, the small merchants and shopkeepers Swedish, 



130 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

and the peasants and sailors Finns. They (Finns) have 
a very marked type of their own, not particularly Rus- 
sian, nothing of the Tartar, only very Northern. 

We dined at the famous Cafe du Pare. W. invited 
the Director and the Consul to dine with us, and we had 
a pleasant little dinner, fairly good. There was a good 
orchestra, who had evidently been told who we were, for 
as soon as we arrived they played the "Marseillaise" very 
well. It caused quite a sensation among the people who 
were dining, as they evidently hadn't noticed particularly 
the quiet party which came in — all of us of course in 
travelling dresses. The chef d'orchestre asked our Di- 
rector if we would like to hear some national airs — 
which they played very well, and then I asked for the 
Polonaise from Glinka's "La Vie pour le Czar," which 
they always played in Moscow whenever the Imperial 
cortege arrived. 

At ii o'clock the Consul's steam launch came (the 
cafe is on the water), and he took us all about the inner 
harbour, most curious and interesting, and then outside. 
It was a beautiful moonlight night, and we went some- 
times so close up to one of the islands that we could have 
spoken to anyone on the shore if there had been any- 
body to speak to — sometimes we were in what seemed a 
great lake, with no perceptible outlet. We cruised about 
until midnight, then went back to the hotel, and walked 
down to the steamer. The light had changed — was 
rather like dawn, but perfectly light. There were people 
and carriages, children, badauds, loitering about the 
wharf. They told us a steamer had started two or three 
hours earlier with tourists on board to see the midnight 
sun. 

We stayed on deck about half an hour to see the de- 
part. The light was getting much stronger — Richard 



i88 3 ] TWO ENGLISH GIRLS 131 

read a letter quite easily, and at 1 o'clock, when I went 
down to the cabin, the sun was shining bright. I am 
writing now on deck after breakfast. Young Moltke, a 
Dane, came on board last night, and asked if he might 
have his meals with us. He too had been at the Corona- 
tion, and found the standing all those hours very tiring. 
The day is beautiful — the sea perfectly calm, and the 
long, lazy hours on deck most resting. 

This morning I was interviewed by two English girls 
— both young and rather pretty, the fair English type. 
One was a governess going back to her place, somewhere 
near Stockholm, in the country; the other was just going 
out on a venture, had no engagement, knew no language 
but her own, and had merely made the acquaintance of 
the other girl on the boat. I suggested it was rather a 
risk coming so far without anything definite; but she said 
she was sure she would find something, and she had a 
little money. I asked her how old she was — 17. "How 
could your parents let you start off like that?" "Oh, 
there are so many of us, and I am strong." They then 
asked me if I would tell them something about the 
Coronation — so I talked to them a few minutes. They 
asked me if I saw many Nihilists — as if they were a 
marked class — and did the Empress look nervous. 

I have also managed to talk a little to the stewardess, 
or rather to understand her — as I have made out that she 
is married, and has young children, and no one apparently 
to leave them with while she is cruising about. 

I wish I could sketch, there are so many charming lit- 
tle bits of scenery that I would like to bring home with 
me. We are getting near Abo, and I must stop. To- 
night is to be our rough night in the Baltic. At the 
present moment the sea is like glass, but the Captain says 
there is always movement crossing over to Stockholm. 



132 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

I should like to go on forever in the boat. The long, 
long hours on the deck with this soft grey sea and sky, 
with nobody to talk to, and no dressing of any kind are 
enchanting. I have got a book, Tolstoy's "Guerre et 
Paix," but I don't seem to get on much — I am always 
looking at something. 

8 o'clock. 

We have just got back after a lovely afternoon at Abo 
(the old capital of Finland). The approach was very 
picturesque as we went some distance up a narrow river 
to the town, which is not directly on the sea. Our Vice- 
Consul was waiting on the quai with a carriage, and we 
drove all over the place. It is now a dead city — all the 
life and interest of Finland is absorbed by Helsingfors, 
but it is interesting. We saw the Cathedral, the public 
gardens, and then drove some distance into the country 
to see the oldest church in Finland — a little old, grey 
building that looks any age. The country is very pretty, 
always charming views of the sea, and a few villas dotted 
about, but nothing like as many as at Helsingfors. It 
seems people come sometimes in summer for sea air, 
bathing, and fishing, and occasionally English yachts stop 
a day or two. 

We got back about eight, and I am writing now before 
supper. We found the boat all dressed with greens, as it 
is the St. Jean, and they tell us we shall see lights, bon- 
fires, and torches on all the little islands, as they always 
celebrate the St. Jean here with greens and lights. My 
next letter will be from Stockholm. 



i88 3 ] ARRIVAL AT STOCKHOLM 133 

To H. L. K. 

Stockholm, 
Sunday, June 24th, 1883. 

Well, Dear, we arrived at 12 o'clock this morning, and 
I was quite sorry to leave the boat and my nice big cabin, 
and the good-natured stewardess. Last night was en- 
chanting. We sat on deck until 12.30. W. treated us 
all to Swedish punch and cakes. It was decidedly cooler 
— for the first time I had on the warm, long, blue cloth 
coat I started in from Paris, and there was rather more 
motion. How it would amuse you — I wish you were 
here. The deck looks quite picturesque — lots of little 
round tables with groups of three or four people, all 
drinking something, and most of them playing cards. 
Between 11 and 12 there is a sort of night, or darkness, 
so they brought up some lamps, which looked weird, and 
gave a faint, flickering light. We run sometimes so 
close to the islands, between several, in a narrow channel, 
that one would think it was impossible to pass, but evi- 
dently it is deep sea everywhere, and we go steadily on 
without slackening. I am delighted we decided to come 
by sea. It is again a most novel experience, and such 
a contrast to our Moscow stay — all gold and glitter, and 
colour and courtiers. 

We were just getting out of the little channels and 
islands and making for the open sea when I went down- 
stairs. The captain came and sat with us a little while, 
and told us where we were. Some of the lights on the 
small islands looked as if they were rising straight out 
of the sea. The water was grey, and the rock grey — 
one only saw the light. 

We didn't meet many ships — a few sailing boats as we 



134 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

left Abo — but no steamers or big ships. We were up 
fairly early, as they told us the entrance to Stockholm 
was so beautiful. Coming by water it rises straight out 
of the sea like Venice. There were quantities of islands, 
but much greener than those of the Finnish coast, and 
the cliffs higher. Villas everywhere, close down to the 
water's edge, and running up the hills. Little pleasure 
boats and yachts skimming all over the harbour. As it 
was fete St. Jean all the peasants and country people 
were out in flat-bottomed boats, crowded with women 
and children down to the water's edge — the boats quite 
covered with green boughs and leaves, the women in 
costume — a white skirt, coloured bodice embroidered in 
gold or silver — silver charms and big pins in their hair. 
It really was fairy-like for quite two hours before we 
arrived. 

We got in at twelve exactly, and breakfasted on 
board. The river is so deep that big ships run straight 
up into the town. The American frigate, Lancaster, 
which arrived last night, is anchored directly in front of 
the hotel, under our windows. 

We took a most cordial leave of our Captain, who 
expressed great gratification at having had us on board 
— hoped we were satisfied and would recommend his 
boat to any of our friends who wanted to make the same 
trip. W. and Richard were astounded at the cheapness 
of the journey. I think they made out it was about 
50 francs apiece — tout compris. We were three nights 
on board, and had all our meals except the day at 
Helsingfors. 

We found various people waiting for us at the quai 
— one of the secretaries of our Legation — the gerant of 
the Hotel de l'Europe — one or two members of the 
French colony here, and M. Mathias, a French engineer 



i88 3 ] THE FRENCH MINISTER 135 

who lives here. We went across to the hotel in a ferry- 
boat and found charming rooms, with windows and bal- 
conies on the river. The proprietor informed us with 
much pride that the last distinguished foreigner that had 
occupied the apartment was Mdme. Sarah Bernhardt. 

We found quantities of letters, unpacked a little — 
I wasn't sorry to get out of my blue cloth into something 
lighter, as it is warm. They say it is going to rain, and it 
has been dull and grey all the morning. M. Patenotre, 
French Minister, has sent word that he will come and see 
us about 2.30. The King is here, and will receive W. 
The Queen and Princesses are away, so I have nothing 
to do. The Royal Palace is opposite — a big square 
building. 

7 o'clock. 

Patenotre and all his Legation appeared. They 
brought us some picture papers with the Coronation, 
proclamation (the Heralds dressed in cloth of gold, and 
preceded by trumpeters) and ball. They say the 
Graphic is the best, but they hadn't it, you might per- 
haps, June 10th. We went for a drive with M. Mathias, 
who will be our cicerone here, as he knows Stockholm 
well. We went to the Royal Park, which is handsome 
— fine old trees and allees, and to the Observatory, from 
which generally there is a beautiful view of Stockholm 
and its surroundings — but it was grey and misty, rain- 
ing even a little, so we didn't see much. 

We are to dine quietly here and go after dinner to a 
camp where soldiers and peasants play games and dance 
and sing, in honour of St. Jean. 

The river is still covered with little green boats dart- 
ing about in every direction. 



136 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 



To H. L. K. 

Hotel d' Europe, Stockholm, 
Monday, June 25th, 1883. 

My Dear, this is the most enchanting place. The sun 
is out this morning, and the river and green hills too 
lovely. The river is most animated, quantities of sail 
boats and ordinary little rowing boats flying about in all 
directions, and plenty of life on the quais. Our expedi- 
tion last night was not very successful. M. Mathias 
came to dinner early, at 7 (almost everyone dines at 6), 
and we went off to the camp. It was a pretty drive all 
along the river, and would have been nice if it had been 
clear, but it was a cold, grey evening, and began to rain 
a little before we got home. We found plenty of people 
looking on — various carriages drawn up, and it is evi- 
dently a thing to do — on a fine night people get out 
and walk about in the crowd, but as it was misting a 
little and decidedly muddy, we merely looked on from 
the carriage. One of the military bands played very well, 
a sort of quickstep, and the people danced with a cer- 
tain entrain, but there were no particular steps, nor 
national dances, nothing very different from what one 
would see in a French assemblee when the people dance 
on the pelouse before the Mairie. When they were all 
dancing round a may-pole dressed with greens, it was 
pretty, with soldiers and the Dalecarlian women — there 
were policemen, but not many, and the people looked 
quite peaceable and happy, evidently enjoying them- 
selves immensely. There were quite a number of chil- 
dren — little tots that looked as if they could just walk, 
joining in the ring. Some of the costumes were pretty. 



i88 3 ] AN AMERICAN VIEW 137 

The Dalecarlian women looked well — they wear a high 
black cap which is very effective on their fair hair, which 
is plaited in heavy braids, and goes around the head 
like a turban ; a white bodice, bright coloured apron, and 
gold or silver charms and hair-pins. The language 
sounded hard — no more the soft Russian tongue — and, 
alas! I am afraid no more the long, beautiful Russian 
twilight. The sky is grey and the clouds low. They 
say we are going to have a spell of rain. 

Mathias says the language is not at all difficult to 
learn, and it is absolutely necessary to know it, par- 
ticularly for anyone who is here in any sort of business 
capacity. 

We got home about 10 and went in to pay a visit to 
the Baldwins, who have the rooms next to us. They 
had intended going too to the camp, but the rain 
frightened them off. We told them they hadn't missed 
much. The Admiral is charming — has been everywhere, 
seen everything, and takes such a practical American view 
of everything. He was not at all impressed with all the 
magnificence of Moscow — "All show (not much of a 
one) and hollow. What is there underneath?" How- 
ever, I said I thought the show was pretty good as far 
as it went, and certainly no other country in the world 
could offer such a sight; to which he replied, smilingly, 
that I had been so long away from America that I had 
forgotten what it was like. I stuck to my guns, and said 
that certainly not all the intelligence, energy, education, 
and money of America could produce such a pageant. 
What was so wonderful was the contrast. All the mod- 
ern life and luxury grafted upon that old half-Eastern, 
half-barbaric world. I think I shall never again see 
anything like the dinner of the Emperor and Empress 



138 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE Dune 

the day of the Coronation. It looked exactly like some 
old mediaeval picture as they sat there in their robes and 
crowns in that old dark-vaulted room of the old palace. 
We had quite an animated discussion. I fancy he always 
takes the opposite side on principle. 

This morning we have been very energetic. Mathias 
came at 10 o'clock, and we started off sight-seeing. We 
walked across to the Palace, which is directly opposite, 
and were there about an hour. There is not much to 
see, the rooms are large and high, all very simply fur- 
nished. Those that give on the river are very gay with 
all the water life of the city passing under the windows. 
There is one large gallery "des glaces" rather like the 
famous one at Versailles, which they told us was beauti- 
ful when it was lighted. There are quantities of por- 
traits everywhere, and these, of course, are interesting; 
also some fine china, large vases. We saw, of course, 
Bernadotte's room, left exactly as it was when he died 
there. It was a curious mixture of French and Swedish, 
several French papers and brochures lying about on the 
tables just as he had left them, quite yellow with age and 
the print fading, also note-books and "projets de loi" an- 
notes in his handwriting. They say he never knew a 
word of Swedish and yet was so popular. There was a 
fine portrait of him over the fireplace, a handsome man, 
with fine soldierly bearing. 

We found a nice open carriage waiting for us at the 
door of the Palace and drove off to Drottningholm, one 
of the Royal residences on Lake Malar. The drive was 
charming, through pretty green country, and as soon 
as we came near the Lake, villas (generally white) in 
every direction. We crossed various little arms of the 
lake before we arrived at the Chateau. It is an enor- 



i88 3 ] A ROYAL RESIDENCE 139 

mous pile, and stands very well in a large park. The 
Governor, a fine old soldier (who rather reminded me of 
Marshal MacMahon), was waiting for us with his son, 
and showed us everything. The rooms are large and 
bright and exceedingly simple. It seems the Royal 
Family are very fond of the place. There is so much 
room that they can have as many people staying as they 
like, and they all live on the water. We drove through 
the park, and saw the Governor's villa, not far from the 
Palace. As we had been going since 10 o'clock the idea 
of tea was not disagreeable, so we consulted our coach- 
man (at least Mathias did, as we couldn't talk), and he 
told us there was a good little cafe in the park, at one 
end, far from the Chateau, where the public were al- 
lowed, so we stopped there and had a very good cup of 
tea. It was cool and green, and we rather liked sitting 
there with the lake before us in the drowsy quiet of a 
summer afternoon. However we had to get back to 
Stockholm, as W. had to make a visit to the Ministre 
des Affaires Etrangeres. He sent him word just as we 
were starting that the King would receive him to-mor- 
row at one o'clock. He must also see if he can borrow 
anywhere a Swedish grand cordon. He sent all his deco- 
rations back to Paris with his uniform, quite forgetting 
that he might want some on his way home, and they tell 
him he must have his, that the King is very particular 
about such matters, and wouldn't be at all pleased if he 
presented himself without his order. Patenotre's is no 
good, as it isn't the same order. 

We left W. the carriage and walked home, stopping 
and looking at all the shop windows. I don't know that 
there is much to buy, but we are going on a real shop- 
ping expedition to-morrow morning. Mathias showed 



Ho LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

us some queer old streets and houses and a famous shop 
where there were all sorts of fishing outfits. He is very 
anxious that we should go on to Norway, see Christiania 
and some of the famous fiords. He says the country is 
much finer than any part of Sweden, and there is much 
more "couleur locale." It is just the season for it. I 
should like it extremely, but I am afraid W. won't. He 
wants to get home, and must stay three or four days at 
Copenhagen, where there is a fine collection of medals. 

Now I am sitting writing at the window, waiting until 
it is time to dress for dinner at the Legation. The river 
is a perpetual enjoyment, always something going on. 
A big boat has just put off from the American man-of- 
war. The men look a fine sturdy lot, and come up in 
great style with a good, long stroke. They attract much 
attention, for as soon as the boat left the ship a little 
crowd gathered and watched their progress. 

Here is W., who enjoyed his visit to the minister very 
much — found him easy and intelligent, and much inter- 
ested in the Coronation. They will send him a plaque 
and a ribbon from the jewellers, so he will be quite cor- 
rect to-morrow. Adelaide is much disturbed because I 
have neither fine dress nor jewels for the dinner to- 
night. It really is not of the slightest consequence, as 
I am the only lady (Patenotre is a bachelor), and we are 
going to the gardens afterwards. I shall wear Delan- 
noy's blue and white striped silk, half long, and take my 
hat in my hand, as it must go on for our outing. 

12 o'clock. 

We have just come in from our dinner, which was 
pleasant and very good, merely the three, Mathias, 
Patenotre, and one of his secretaries, M. de Bondy. The 
house is large, nice, and looks very pretty, as the Minister 



i88 3 ] SWEDISH CUSTOMS 141 

has been both in China and Persia and has brought back 
some beautiful things, carpets, tentures, and curios of all 
kinds. He evidently didn't find Pekin a very pleasant 
or healthy residence, says the cold is something awful. 
He likes Stockholm, says the Swedes are pleasant, kindly 
people, lead simple lives, and do all they can to make it 
pleasant for the Corps Diplomatique. There are few 
large fortunes — very little life, and little private enter- 
taining. The Court gives several balls and dinners every 
year. 

About 8.30 we went off to the gardens and restaurant 
Haselbach, where all the beau monde of Stockholm as- 
sembles in summer, but the season is over and there 
were not many people there — of Society; people there 
were, plenty. The gardens are large, well lighted, a very 
good band was playing, and everyone walking up and 
down the broad allees, or seated at little tables with tea 
and punch. We sat there about an hour. Patenotre 
pointed out various notabilities to us, but said he didn't 
know many people. 

Now we are discussing routes with maps and books. 
We shall start for Copenhagen to-morrow night via, 
Malmo, and must send in the morning to engage our 
sleepings. It is a long journey. We leave here at 8.30, 
and don't get to Copenhagen until 4.30 the next day. 

Tuesday, June 26th. 

It is lovely again this morning. Richard and I and 
Mathias have been wandering about the streets shop- 
ping. There isn't much to buy — Norwegian knives with 
carved wooden handles in a leather case, Scandinavian 
charms, buckles, and brooches roughly worked, but 
rather pretty and curious shapes — furs, too, of course, but 
we didn't want any more. I was rather tempted by a 



H2 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

large white stuffed bear. I thought it would look so well 
in the hall in the country ; but of course the only reason to 
have a bear in the house is when you shot it yourself, and 
that was not possible in the streets of Stockholm in the 
month of June. The day is divine — sky blue and water 
dancing. The whole aspect of the place is much gayer 
than anything we saw in Russia. People don't look sad 
or preoccupied; there are always babauds hanging over 
the bridges and exchanging jokes or remarks with the 
watermen. 

Richard and I breakfasted tete-a-tete, as W. had gone 
off for his Royal audience. His plaque and grand cor- 
don came in time from the jeweller, so he was quite 
proper. I shall go and see about the trunks, and as soon 
as W. comes back we shall start again for some last sight- 
seeing, the Museum, churches, etc. We dine at 6 and 
start at 8 from the hotel. Richard has decided to wait 
a day longer and go and see the Falls of Upsala, which 
are quite worth seeing. Mathias will go with him, and 
he will join us at Copenhagen Thursday. The Baldwins 
have just come in to say good-bye. They, too, are leav- 
ing to-morrow. 

I will finish, as I have a quiet hour before dinner. I 
left the gentlemen at the Museum, as I was not very well, 
and thought better to rest a little before starting this 
evening. W. came in a little after two, having enjoyed 
the hour with the King very much. He says he is a 
tall, handsome man, very intelligent, and well up in 
everything. He received him quite informally in his 
cabinet de travail, which he said had also been Ber- 
nadotte's. There was a good picture of him on the walls. 
He was much interested in the Coronation, though he 
had heard all about it already from his son, but he was 
anxious to have W.'s impressions. He said he personally 




M. William Waddington. 
From a copyright photograph by Russell & Son. 



i88 3 ] SWEDISH EMIGRATION 143 

had never been very anxious about a Nihilist plot at that 
time. He didn't think they would choose that opportu- 
nity. He was much interested in everything French, 
literature, politics, theatres, and asked W. if he was 
going back to Petersburg as Ambassador. He also 
asked him if he had ever been in America, as he believed 
he had married an American, and was much surprised to 
hear he had never crossed the big pond. He told him 
too just what some of the Swedish diplomats told me, 
that all his best young men went to America. They got 
such high wages, and got on so well, that they were all 
leaving Sweden. I remember Sandford telling us years 
ago in Paris, that all the workmen on his orange planta- 
tions in Florida were Swedes. 

W. had just time to get out of his dress clothes, and 
send back his order when Mathias appeared, and we went 
for a last tournee. First to the Church des Chevaliers, 
where all the Swedish Kings are buried, up and down 
some old streets where there are curious old houses, and 
wound up at the Museum. I only stayed there half an 
hour, saw some of the pictures and souvenirs of Charles 
IX, and then came home, leaving the others. 

Now we have finished packing, I have on my trav- 
elling dress, and am seated quietly at the window with 
my book, Tolstoy's "La Guerre et la Paix," but I don't 
make much progress — I am always looking out. A 
big steam yacht has just come in — ran straight up the 
river alongside of the "Lancaster." About twenty little 
boats have immediately started out, going close up to the 
yacht, and they have sent off a steam launch, which has 
come up to the wharf in about five minutes. 

Patenotre and his secretary have come to say good- 
bye, and to say that all the orders are given for this 
evening, and we shall have our sleepings. I wonder 



144 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

if you have seen Pontecoulant. He said he would go 
at once to find you. He has been saving up all he heard 
about the Americans and their frock coats and grey 
trousers (when everyone else was covered with gold em- 
broidery and orders) for you, and hopes to get a good rise 
out of you. 

My next letter will be from Copenhagen — then Ham- 
burg and home. The gentlemen have come in — found 
the Museum very interesting, and w r e shall dine in a few 
minutes, so this must stop and will go off from here by 
the evening courier. 

To H. L. K. 

Copenhagen, 
Wednesday, June 27th, 1883. 

We arrived at one o'clock to-day, Dear, not tired at 
all, as our journey was easy. We had a capital waggon, 
a large sleeping carriage, a bed on each side, and a good 
toilette. We started punctually at 8.30, through fairly 
pretty country, nothing very picturesque, but a general 
impression of verdure. At 10.30 we stopped some- 
where, had tea, and the man came and made the beds. I 
slept quite well. We took the steamer at Malmo, break- 
fasted on board, and enjoyed the crossing. The sea was 
beautiful and there were quantities of boats of all kinds. 
There was a thick fog for about half an hour, which was 
very uncomfortable, for we knew how many boats there 
were all around us, and as soon as our own whistle 
stopped, we heard many others unpleasantly near. How- 
ever it lifted as we neared Copenhagen. 

The approach is good, but not nearly so fine as Stock- 
holm. There are no islands and the country all about is 
very flat. The quantity of boats of all kinds made it a 



i88 3 ] IN COPENHAGEN 145 

very pretty sight. We found M. de Kergorlay, Charge 
d' Affaires, waiting for us on the quai with a carriage, and 
drove at once to the hotel. We wanted a little time to 
change, read our letters (we found a quantity, two from 
you), which you may imagine I was glad to have. I 
am so glad the boy has kept well — I am getting very 
homesick for him now that our faces are turned home- 
wards. M. de Kergorlay said he would come back at 
4 and take us a drive. W. too found various letters and 
papers. We started again at 4 and had a beautiful drive 
to the "Deer Park" for some distance along the sea, with 
quantities of villas, casinos, cafes with music all the way. 
There were some very pretty carriages, officers riding, 
and every description of pleasure boat, big and small, on 
the sea. Just as we were leaving the sea and turning 
into the forest we met a big break, with the Prince Royal 
driving himself and his family. The carriage was full of 
children. He recognized of course Kergorlay, then W. 
— however they are all in the country. We shall have 
no visits nor audiences of any kind. I am rather sorry 
not to see the Prince. He was in Paris and dined with 
us the Exhibition year, when W. was at the Quai d'Or- 
say, and I found him most sympathetic, and very good- 
looking. 

It was so pretty driving through the deer park. We 
had tea in one of the casinos, standing high over the sea, 
with a splendid view. We dined quietly at the hotel at 
a small table in the dining-room. We saw there General 
Appert and his family dining. They had come to Co- 
penhagen to see their son, who is military attache here 
(Madame Appert is a Dane), also Harry Whitehouse, 
who said they were in the country, but not far, and would 
certainly come in and see us. I have written a few notes 
since dinner, and W. has also sent one to be given early 



146 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

to-morrow morning to the Conservateur des Medailles 
at the Museum. The hotel is very comfortable, we have 
an enormous salon on the front, and good bedrooms. 
Adelaide has fraternised with the Apperts' maid, and is 
delighted to have a compatriote to go about with. I 
was interrupted, as W. suggested we should go out and 
make a little turn in the streets while he smoked a cigar. 
The town is much less gay than Stockholm. All the 
houses are built of grey stone, and are high and narrow, 
rather like New York. There are a good many people 
in the streets and in the trams, of which there seem 
plenty. 

Thursday, June 28th. 

It is again a beautiful day, and at 10 o'clock W. and 
I started. I took Adelaide, for I knew W. would be 
absorbed at once by the medals, and I didn't care to 
come home alone. We were received with much em- 
pressement by the Director. As I supposed, the Con- 
servateur des Medailles carried off W. at once, and a 
sub. of some kind was deputed to show me the Histori- 
cal Museum, which really is very interesting, costumes 
and interior groups of figures of the whole world. They 
say it is very exact, but what a work it must have been. 
We saw it very well and fairly quickly, as it wasn't a 
public day, and the young man only showed us what 
was worth seeing. We walked home. It wasn't far, 
and he explained the route to us. I really needed the 
exercise. The town is decidedly gloomy, even in the 
bright sunlight, and might be any Northern town any- 
where. 

I breakfasted alone at a small table in the dining-room, 
and had the big room almost to myself — two gentlemen 
were breakfasting at one end. Almost as soon as I got 



i88 3 ] AN AFTERNOON DRIVE 147 

upstairs I had some visits. First Richard appeared, very 
pleased with his excursion, said it would have been a 
pity not to see the Falls, being so near; then came Col. 
Wyckham Hoffman and Whitehouse. Hoffman was 
much interested in hearing about the Coronation, as he 
was five years secretary in Russia and knew all the 
people. He and Mrs. Hoffman are at Elsinore for the 
summer and want us very much to come down and dine 
and stay over night, but I am afraid we can't. W. wants 
all his time here for the coins, and it would take quite a 
day to really see the place. Kergorlay came with a car- 
riage at three, and he and I and Richard started again for 
the same drive. It seems all Copenhagen does it every 
afternoon. The sea looked enchanting, and I think 
there were more boats than yesterday — several big 
steamers, English bound they tell us — and such quanti- 
ties of pleasure boats. We drove rather further into 
the forest, as we had more time. It is really very lovely 
— had tea in another casino with the same view of 
the sea. We met various private carriages with good 
horses, a certain number were breaks full of nurses and 
children; and some rather smart-looking officers well 
mounted. We didn't meet the Royal break again. It 
seems they are all (a big family party) at one of their 
chateaux near Copenhagen, and come into town very 
often. Kergorlay seems to like Copenhagen — not the 
climate, he says it is cold and foggy, there are days when 
one never sees the sun. It makes rather a gloomy im- 
pression on me. If I lived here I too would want to 
come every day to the Deer Park, which wouldn't be 
convenient perhaps for domestic arrangements. 

The streets are curiously banal — I wonder why? Of 
course one didn't expect to find the colour and half- 
Eastern look of Moscow, nor the gay half "bains-de- 



148 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

mer" impression of Stockholm, but I am disappointed. 
One thinks of Danes as descendants of the Vikings, 
heroes, enormous men with long limbs and yellow hair. 
Do you remember the poem we were so mad about in 
the days of our youth, "Word was brought to the Danish 
King that the love of his heart lay dying"? I can see 
Mrs. Lawrence sitting at the table, and reading it in her 
full rich voice. I don't remember now who wrote it, 
but I am sure you will — and Copenhagen looks singu- 
larly unpoetical and modern. We found W. on the bal- 
cony when we got back, with his papers and his cigar, just 
tired enough after a long day's work in the Museum to 
appreciate a quiet hour. It has been warm all day, and is 
still. We felt the difference as soon as we turned into 
the streets, and we haven't the river under our windows 
as we had at Stockholm, and always a breeze. 

4 o'clock. 
Richard and I are just back from an expedition to 
Tivoli — the great garden here. We dined quietly at 
home, and I tried to persuade W. to come with us to the 
garden, but he declined absolutely, so we left him talking 
and smoking with General Appert, and we two started 
off in a fiacre. We were rather pleased with ourselves 
and the way we got along in a strange place and a strange 
tongue. We even made out strawberries and cream — 
"med" and something else I forget now. I don't know 
which was strawberries and which was cream, but we got 
them, and med was evidently one or the other. The 
garden is very pretty, very well arranged, with every 
variety of entertainment. We sat and listened to the 
band (a very good one, military) while we had med and 

, and then went into one or two of the small 

theatres and concert halls. All this too was modern, 



i88 3 ] THE THORWALDSEN GALLERY 149 

might have been Paris or London. We saw one or two 
of our diplomatic friends disporting themselves at one 
of the theatres where there were "poses plastiques" very 
well done. I think they were "en garc,on" — the pink 
flower hats they were alongside of didn't give me a 
family impression. 

We rather enjoyed our evening lounging about. A 
fortune teller, a rather pretty girl, evidently wished to 
tell our fortunes, that we made out by signs and the cards 
she had spread out before her, but we didn't think our 
knowledge of the Danish tongue was sufficient to under- 
stand all she would tell us of a brilliant future. Rich- 
ard is delightful to go about with. He likes to see every- 
thing and know about everything, and certainly succeeds 
in some curious way getting all the information he wants. 
W. was poring over his notes when we got back. We 
told him all our experiences, and then talked a little 
about our day to-morrow. 

Friday, June 29th. 
It has been frightfully hot all day. I stayed at home 
all the morning. W. and Richard went off early to the 
Museum. I had a visit from Kergorlay. He has an in- 
teresting face, is a widower, poor fellow, with four chil- 
dren, one boy of two and a half. They say he is so 
devoted to the children. I told him I should like to see 
them, and he will send them — at any rate we shall see 
them to-morrow night, as we dine at the Legation. Rich- 
ard came back to breakfast. He said it was cool enough 
in the Museum, and we started off for the Thorwaldsen 
Gallery. Of course some of the statues and bas reliefs are 
very fine, but they are enormous, almost more than life 
size. We went on to the Frauen Kirche to see his statues 
of the 12 Apostles which are there. They were strangely 



150 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

familiar. We must have seen them reproduced in plaster 
at home. Both St. Peter and St. John I knew quite well, 
and didn't like them much. While we were loitering 
about the church the Suisse told us a wedding was just 
going to take place, it might perhaps amuse us to see it, 
so we stepped into one of the side aisles and saw the 
cortege. The bride was the regulation white-veiled fig- 
ure, I think she had a green wreath (it may have been 
myrtle like the German brides), the man was in uniform. 
What was really interesting was the dress of the two 
pastors. They wore black coats with white ruffles, just 
as they did in Luther's time. That reconciled me a little 
to this very uninteresting town. 

It was still very warm, but we did a little shopping, 
photographs and one or two trifles. Richard leaves to- 
night at 7.30, and we shall dine early with him. He 
is to stop a day or two with Mary at Meiningen, pick 
up his mother who is there, and bring her back to 
France. Mary wanted us to come, and I wish we could 
have managed it. It would have been nice to have been 
there all together, and they would have enjoyed hear- 
ing all our impressions while they were so absolutely 
fresh, particularly Charles, who leads a very quiet life now 
ever since his accident at the Quai d'Orsay. It is extra- 
ordinary how the last thing seen remains in one's mem- 
ory. Already Moscow and that splendid pageant is fad- 
ing a little, and I see Stockholm, and the green islands, 
and the dancing river. 

Saturday, June 30th. 

It is still frightfully hot — not a breath of air. I have 
made as much of a draught as I can by opening the door 
into the passage. It isn't very convenient, as we are just 
at the head of the big staircase, but I have put a high- 



i88 3 ] A CLIFF WALK 151 

backed arm-chair between me and the passers by. It was 
really very warm until 1 1 o'clock last night. We dined 
downstairs with Richard, and were very sorry to see 
him go. Then we went to Mrs. Baldwin (the Admiral 
had gone off for two days) to ask her if she would drive 
with us. We made the usual turn, the only variety being 
our tea place — we take a new one every time. The 
gerant of the hotel explains to the coachman where to 
go, and he chooses very well. It was lovely driving, and 
so cool on the top of the cliff that we walked about a 
little after tea. There is always a long, clear evening, 
not like Russia, but still very pleasant and pretty, such a 
soft light over everything. The moment we turned away 
from the sea back into the town we felt the difference, 
but the long drive had cooled us. I have asked for my 
breakfast upstairs in the salon. I really can't dress and 
sit in that hot room in this weather. W. is at the 
Museum, but comes back at 4 with the Director, who 
is to show us some of the treasures of the town. I 
am getting on very well here with "La Guerre et la 
Paix," as I am not distracted all the time as I was at 
Stockholm. I think you would like it, the Russian side 
of Napoleon's great campaign is so interesting, also the 
pictures of the society of Moscow at that time, which 
they say is extremely well done. 

W. came in about 4, not very warm, as he says the 
rooms of the Museum are cool, with such thick walls, and 
while we were waiting for Monsieur Warsoe, the Direc- 
teur, Mr. Vivian, English Minister, paid us a visit. He 
is very anxious we should come and see them at Elsinore, 
says it is most interesting (all memories of Hamlet). I 
should like it extremely, but W. thinks we must get 
home. I liked Vivian very much. He talked very easily 
about everything — he is going to dine with us at Ker- 



152 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

gorlay's, says all the colleagues are most anxious to hear 
about the Coronation. M. Warsoe appeared about 4.30 
and we drove at once to Rosenburg, an old chateau 
where there is a fine collection of all sorts of things. 
Some of the Danish porcelain was lovely, also some fine 
tapestries. They showed us with much pride their 
tresor, jewels, and gold and silver services, but really 
after Moscow and the quantities of gold, silver, enamel, 
crowns, and jewels of all sorts that one had seen the 
others made no effect, though of course there were some 
handsome stones, rubies. What I did like was the 4 lions 
(couchant) of massive silver, which are always put at each 
side of the throne whenever there is a great ceremony 
at Court. They must look splendid. 

We went again to the Frauen Kirche, as W. had not 
seen it, and the second time I liked the Apostles better, 
a little better. I think it was too hot, and I was too 
tired when I was there before. We drove out to an old 
bridge, which was curious, and in some old street where 
I had never penetrated. The trams worry me, they are 
so frightfully civilized and up-to-date, however they were 
crowded, so evidently the Danes are not of my way of 
thinking. 

Our dinner at Kergorlay's was very pleasant and 
handsome. Adelaide was again frightfully put out at my 
garment, and she is right, it is really a street dress, and 
this time there are several women. I don't know why 
I didn't keep out one evening dress. It was rather 
stupid to send everything back. However, I made my 
excuses to the ladies, and said I was "en touriste." They 
were all very elegantes, though they were all already 
settled in the country, and went off about 10 o'clock by 
the last train. Kergorlay's children came in before din- 
ner. The eldest girl is 10, and the baby two and a half. 



i88 3 ] DINING "EN TOURISTE" 153 

It was so pathetic to see them in their white dresses and 
black sashes and to think whom the mourning was for. 
The dinner was very gay. We had Count and Countess 
Toll (he is Russian Minister here, and a brother of Count- 
ess Pahlen), Marochetti (Italian Minister) and his wife (a 
Frenchwoman, nee Grandval), Vivian (she didn't come, 
was in the country and rather exhausted with the great 
heat), General and Madame Appert, and two secretaries. 
Count Toll was very keen to hear all about Moscow, and 
what we thought of the great show (he speaks English 
quite well). I told him we were enchanted, and that one 
of the great features was Comte Pahlen with his velvet 
coat and white staff of office with a big sapphire at the 
top. He certainly took no end of trouble, and looked 
his part very well. They all seem to like Copenhagen 
pretty well, except for the climate, which seems most try- 
ing. Countess Toll was in white with handsome pearls. 
I felt rather like a pensionnaire in my simple little dress 
— foolish, too ; I ought to have known better. 

We got home quite early, so I can still have a little 
Tolstoy before I go to bed. Adelaide instantly inquired 
what the other ladies had on and was much put out. 
"C'etait Madame l'Ambassadrice qui etait le plus mal" 
— "oh ! cela oui, et de beaucoup." I suppose it reflects 
upon the femme de chambre when the mistress is not up 
to the mark. 

Sunday, July 1st. 
It is still frightfully hot. I did not go out all morning, 
though they sent a notice of services at the English 
Church. We shall leave to-morrow night for Ham- 
burg. W. says two days more of medals will give him 
all he wants. After breakfast I went tp see Mrs. Bald- 
win, whom I found gasping, sitting with open doors and 



154 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

windows; also Madame Appert, who looked quite cool 
and comfortable, as did her two daughters, pretty girls; 
however, they said they didn't feel cool. When I got 
back to our rooms I found several cards, and then Mrs. 
Hoffman appeared. She was very nice and friendly, sent 
all sorts of messages to you and Anne, and wished Anne 
would come and stay with her at Elsinore. She likes 
Copenhagen very much, says the people are friendly and 
hospitable and invite the diplomats; also that some of 
the country places are very fine, quite in the English 
style. She made a great appeal to me to come to El- 
sinore with her this afternoon, I could come back to- 
morrow in plenty of time for the night train, but I 
couldn't manage. W. was still at the Museum, and 
would have been in a great state of mind if he had come 
home and found not me but a note saying I had departed 
for Elsinore. While she was still, here, young Moltke 
appeared, our compagnon de voyage from Helsingfors 
to Stockholm. He hopes to be sent to Paris or London. 
I told him if it was Paris he must look us up. He is a 
very nice young fellow, very good-looking, tall, and fair. 
We have had our usual drive. We dined at 5 and 
started out rather earlier. If possible there were more 
people than we had ever seen before, as it was Sunday and 
fete. All Copenhagen, high and low, were on their way 
to the Deer Park. A stream of conveyances of all de- 
scriptions, some peasants' carts with straw at the bottom 
filled with women and children, everybody in a good 
humour. There were fewer officers riding, and fewer big 
boats on the sea, but endless little pleasure yachts. As 
we came back it was really a pretty sight, all the cafes, 
casinos, etc., brilliantly lighted, all the villas, too, and 
people sitting on the verandas, some playing cards, 
some at tea tables, some walking about in the gardens, 



i88 3 3 OUT-DOOR LIFE IN SUMMER 155 

we could see the light dresses fluttering about in the 
shrubberies; animation, laughter, voices, music every- 
where. We stopped as usual for tea at one of the high 
casinos — the sea blue and calm at our feet some distance 
down, and the whole summer out-door life of Copen- 
hagen behind in the woods and hills. It was delicious 
driving back, and even the streets were pretty to-night, 
so many people, and the cool air such a relief after the 
terrible heat of the day. We have decided to start at 
8.30 to-morrow evening. 

I tried to glean some information from a Danish paper 
this afternoon. Col. Hoffman told me that if one knew 
English or German one could read Danish quite well, giv- 
ing oneself a little trouble, but I can't say that was my 
experience. It might have been Hebrew for all I made 
out. I suppose I didn't keep at it long enough. It 
doesn't sound easy when one hears the language spoken 
all about one, rather harsh. I mastered a little Swedish 
(to understand it) much more easily. 

To H. L. K. 

Copenhagen, 
Monday, July 2d, 1883. 

The heat is something awful to-day, — I think the 
worst day we have had. I was up early, as the salon is 
cooler than the bedroom, more doors and windows. W. 
is off to his medals until 5, and we leave to-night for 
Hamburg. The trunks are made (almost for the last 
time), as we shall stay only one night in Hamburg, and 
arrive in Paris Thursday morning. I had a nice visit 
from Kergorlay. He can't come to the station to see 
us off, as he dines with the King in the country, but 
will send his chancelier to see about places, luggage, etc. 



156 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

We talked a great deal about his children. He feels such 
a responsibility, and it is hard for a man to have such a 
young family to look after. He said their mother was 
so devoted to them — it seems hard she couldn't have 
been left to them a little longer. 

I breakfasted downstairs, had a little talk with the 
Apperts, and then went to the reading-room for a little 
while to see if there was any news. The Comte de 
Chambord is very ill, dying they say. I wonder if his 
death will make any difference now — I suppose not. He 
has been only a memory practically all these years, as he 
never came to France, and only a few, a very few fideles 
clung to him in his exile. I must say I rather admired 
him always. According to his lights (limited I grant), 
he was absolutely consistent. 

I had another visit from Col. Hoffman, who came to 
see if we were really going to-night. We have a de- 
spatch from Richard saying that we will have much diffi- 
culty in getting into any hotel in Hamburg — the town 
is very full. There are races going on, also a scientific 
congress of some kind — however, the proprietor of this 
hotel says it is all right, they will keep us rooms. W. 
came in at 5, having been working steadily since 9.30 this 
morning. He took a cordial leave of the various Con- 
servateurs and Directors, but thinks they were not sorry 
to see him go, and take up their quiet life, two or three 
hours a day in the cabinet instead of 6 or 7. 

My next letter will be from Hamburg — and after that 
I will tell all I have seen and done, which will be much 
easier than writing. 



i88 3 ] THE JOURNEY TO KIEL 157 

Railway Station, Kiel, 7 a.m., 
Tuesday, July 3d. 

We have two hours to wait here, so I will scribble a 
line to you, which will help to pass the time. We got 
off very early last night. Some of the young men from 
the Legation were waiting at the station with a servant 
to help us with our baggage. It really was not neces- 
sary, as we have only two trunks, and the porter of the 
hotel is most helpful and energetic. It was very warm 
even at that hour, and the compartment was stuffy, a 
good many passengers. We got to Korsoe about 11. 
The boat was directly opposite the station, and we went 
on board at once. There was some delay getting the 
baggage on board, so we sat quietly on deck and had our 
tea, and cooled off. The cabin felt so hot when I went 
down to leave my things that I couldn't make up my 
mind to install myself, particularly as the crossing (the 
Belt) was short, about 5 hours. The Captain said we 
should arrive between 4 and 5 at Kiel. We stayed on 
deck till nearly one o'clock. It was a lovely night, the 
sea quite calm, but a good breeze once outside, which 
freshened considerably as we drew away from the land. 

I went down about one, but didn't get much sleep, 
and was quite ready to go up on deck when they called 
me at 4.30, and said we were approaching Kiel. Almost 
all the passengers were on deck. The approach is not 
particularly interesting. I heard two gentlemen discuss- 
ing us in English. They had seen our trunks all la- 
belled Waddington, Couronnement, had taken renseigne- 
ments from the Captain, who assured them W. was the 
French Ambassador. They thought he must be mistaken. 
"That man is an Englishman — he is speaking English 
now to the lady — I have heard them talking always in 
English. They certainly are not French." They hovered 



158 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

about us, and then looked rather bewildered, for Ade- 
laide came up to ask me something, and then W. and I 
finished our talk in French. We speak sometimes 
French, sometimes English, it depends upon our milieu. 
The harbour is fine as one gets up to it. How hard for 
the Danes to give it up, and how they must hate the 
Germans. We got off about 5.30. The city was still 
wrapped in sleep. We walked about a little, and it was a 
curious sensation to walk about in apparently a dead 
town. We had some breakfast at the station, and have 
been out again. Then (7 o'clock) the town was quite 
lively, workmen moving about. We shall start in about a 
quarter of an hour, and have about two hours and a half 
to Hamburg. The long wait here has been tiresome, 
nearly three hours. The movement on the water and 
the quais was amusing, but really until after 7 not a 
soul was stirring, at least not in this quarter, and no trains 
coming or going. 

To H. L. K. 

Hamburg, 
Tuesday, July 3d, 1883. 

No words can tell, Dear, how uncomfortable we are, 
hot and cross. We arrived at 11, after a very hot, dusty 
journey. The town is crammed, even at this hotel where 
they had kept rooms for us (and such nasty little rooms, 
a small salon, giving on the street it is true, so that we 
can see all that goes on, and two minute bedrooms on one 
side) we can't get our trunks, nor apparently our break- 
fast. The hotel people are quite affoles. There are 
races (with a German Prince of some kind either presid- 
ing or running horses, I can't make out which), a horti- 
cultural show, a cattle fair, and an anniversary of some- 
thing). 



i88 3 ] IN HAMBURG 159 

We said we would take a carriage this afternoon and 
drive about the city, and we might just as well have asked 
for a balloon — nothing to be had before 7 o'clock. I 
should think every carriage in Hamburg was out — quan- 
tities of all kinds and large omnibuses are passing under 
the windows, filled with women in light dresses, and 
a generally festive appearance. They hope to give us 
one then. 

We have had breakfast — the dining-room large, fairly 
cool, and empty (as it was late everyone had breakfasted 
and flown). They brought us the Figaro. The Comte de 
Chambord is dead, and the Comte de Paris starting for 
the funeral. Just as we had got upstairs again the man 
of the hotel came and asked if Madame l'Ambassadrice 
de France would receive Madame 1'Ambassadrice de 
France. We were rather puzzled, but said of course we 
would receive anyone who came, and in walked M. et 
Mdme. de Courcel, and M. de Pina, our Consul here, M. 
de Sancy, the military attache at Berlin. We were de- 
lighted to see them. The Courcels had been paying a 
visit to the Duke of Sagan in his splendid place, and, 
being not far from Hamburg, had come on to see the 
town. They were going to the races with M. de Pina, 
and wanted us to come, but we didn't care to (and in- 
deed I don't know how we should have gone, as they 
had a small carriage which just held them, and we had 
none). M. de Pina asked us to dine with the Courcels 
at 8.30, and that we were very glad to do, as the prospect 
of a dinner in the big dining-room, with all the crowd 
of hungry people back from the various festivities, was 
not alluring. Pina told us as we couldn't get a carriage 
we had better take one of the small steamers that ply 
about in the inner harbour, and have an hour's sail. He 
was sure we would find it pretty and interesting. It 



160 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

would certainly be cooler than sitting in that stuffy little 
salon. 

There is nothing to see now in the streets, as the whole 
population is out of town, and the rumbling of carriages 
has ceased for the moment. W. is lying back in an arm- 
chair, with a cigar, in his shirt sleeves, groaning with the 
heat ; and very hot it must be to reduce him to that state. 
I have a theory that no Waddington knows what heat 
means. No words can describe what I feel. Certainly 
fine feathers make fine birds, and I think no one would 
recognize the gold embroidered, bejewelled couple that 
went in the coupe d'Orsay to the gala dinner at the 
Palace. 

ii o'clock. 
We are just in from the Consul's dinner, and as it 
is cooler in the salon with the windows open than in my 
room, I will finish my letter to-night. We start to-mor- 
row morning at 9 o'clock for Cologne and Paris. Now 
that we are getting so near I am very homesick for the 
boy, and for my own house. The constant moving 
about and living in hotels for the last fortnight has been 
tiring. I have got nothing left either to say to anybody 
— I have described the Coronation so many times that it 
is almost mechanical now — the words come by them- 
selves — a steady stream, like the paper that rolls off 
the telegrams. I think I should never do for a perma- 
nent Ambassadress if six weeks of functions have ex- 
hausted me physically and mentally. As usual tho' last 
impressions are the strongest. I have already forgotten 
Moscow a little, and see the journey from Petersburg to 
Stockholm more clearly than anything else. I am sorry 
now that I didn't write a regular journal. Almost all the 
gentlemen did, and it would have been no trouble if I had 



i88 3 ] THE INNER HARBOUR 161 

made up my mind to it, and written regularly, but un- 
fortunately my writing-table at Maison Klein was on the 
court, and as soon as I established myself all sorts of 
interesting things immediately began to take place under 
the window, and the ink was bad and thick, and I got 
it all over my fingers, and even up in my hair — I hate so 
to write. 

We sat all the afternoon indoors until 6 o'clock, when 
a little breeze sprang up, and we walked down a few steps 
only to the wharf from which the little steamers sail. 
It is about an hour, the tour round the lake, or inner 
harbour — quite charming — all the shores covered with 
pretty houses and villas, with lawns, and gardens full of 
flowers, sloping down to the water's edge. One would 
never have dreamed of finding anything so pretty and 
so country in this very business-like place. Many of the 
villas had nice little jetties and piers that ran out quite 
far into the water, and pretty boats and boat-houses. 
It seemed incredible to find all this so close to the 
hot, crowded hotel where we had been all day. The 
boat was quite full — principally business men going back 
to dine and sleep at their country houses — all Germans 
— we were certainly the only foreigners on the boat. It 
rather reminded me of Staten Island at home — the after- 
noon boat with all the business men on board, only one 
didn't have the broad expanse of the beautiful New 
York Bay, but a small land-locked lake. 

The sail and breeze (such as it was) revived us, and 
we had time to dress comfortably for our dinner. We 
didn't see the great port — divined it only, with the forest 
of masts of all sizes. 

Our dinner was very pretty and pleasant. Our host 
was some time in Holland, and has some lovely specimens 
of blue Delft, and some fine carved furniture. We had 



1 62 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

only M. and Mdme. de Courcel (who arrived very late, 
having been caught in the file of carriages coming from 
the races), M. de Sancy, the first magistrate of the city, 
the Burgomaster, all in black, a plain tight coat, with a 
white fraise, very stiff and high around his neck, and a 
long gold chain. Also two of the principal merchants 
of Hamburg — the Courcels were staying with one of 
them, as they could get no rooms anywhere. The house 
was almost shut up — all the family out of town, and a 
femme de charge to look after them. They said the 
rooms were very comfortable, and they took their meals 
at a restaurant or with M. de Pina, who is certainly most 
hospitable. 

W. was delighted to see Courcel and tell him all about 
the Coronation, and his impressions of all the people he 
had seen. The Burgomaster, too, was very keen to hear 
what we thought about everything. He is a clever old 
man, speaking French fairly well. They all evidently 
think there is much discontent in Russia, and some day 
there will be a great upheaving — de Sancy told me that 
Radziwill, Aide-de-Camp to the German Emperor, told 
him that our equipages, horses, etc., were so good. We 
thought so, but were not perhaps quite impartial. Rich- 
ard says we all used to sit up talking after every cere- 
mony, and say how well we did things. 

After dinner M. de Pina showed us some of his curios, 
which are interesting and very well arranged. One of 
the two merchants, I quite forget the name, has a beau- 
tiful villa on the Elbe, some little distance from Ham- 
burg, and wants us very much to come and make them 
a visit. I was much tempted — it would be amusing to 
see a bit of German business life, and I think W. would 
not have minded if the invitation could be accepted at 
once — but we would have to remain on here for two 



i88 3 ] THE PORT BY MOONLIGHT 163 

days, as the gentleman is going somewhere else before 
he goes home, and really two days in these horrid little 
rooms would be impossible. M. de Pina told us the 
villas of some of these merchant princes are beautiful, 
with splendid gardens and all the luxe that money can 
give. He says they spend much more for their country 
houses than for their town establishments. 

We broke up about 10, as everyone was tired. It was 
a beautiful moonlight night, so we told our coachman 
to take us round by the great port. It was most curious. 
The water was black except just where the streak of 
moonlight fell on it, and there were thousands of ships of 
all kinds from all quarters of the globe — smoke coming 
out of the chimneys of some of the big steamers, evi- 
dently preparing for an early start to-morrow morning, 
and millions of masts tapering up against the sky. Lights 
in every direction, some high, some low, and even at 
that hour of the night little boats flying about. One 
saw a dark object start off from the wharf — suddenly 
stand out well crossing the moonlight streak, and then 
disappear — there was a constant sound of oars and row- 
locks, and long creaking noises like pulleys, and heavy 
things being hoisted on board a ship. They say the 
animation, and noise, and dust, and smells are extraordi- 
nary in the daytime — but at night-time all looked ex- 
tremely picturesque. 

Cologne Gare, 10 o'clock Mercredi soir, 

4 Juillet. 

We got off this morning at 9.30 from Hamburg, and 
had a long, hot, dusty journey — nothing very pretty to 
see. We arrived here about 6.30, found the Consul, Mr. 
Brandt, waiting at the station with a carriage. He pro- 
posed a drive — going first to the Cathedral, to see it by 



1 64 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

daylight, and then to dine with him at the station, where 
there is a very good restaurant, so we sent all our small 
things over to the private room, and started off to the 
Cathedral. I was delighted to see it again after so many 
years. Do you remember it was the first European 
Cathedral we saw after Notre Dame, that first year when 
we came down the Rhine. How magnificent it is, out- 
side and inside — the long, stately vaulted aisles, so high 
and so still. There was no one in the church at that 
hour, and we had a delightful half hour. We walked all 
around the outside, and then went back to the station 
to dine — and a very good dinner it was, in the same 
room where we breakfasted when we started for Russia, 
now nearly two months ago, when all seemed so vague, 
and rather a plunge into the unknown. We shall cer- 
tainly have souvenirs for all our lives. 

As we were finishing dinner the Chef de Gare came to 
say that a "lit-salon" was reserved for us, and he would 
have all the "kleines gepack" put into the compartment, 
and tell us at the last moment. The train starts at 10.30, 
and we get to Paris at 10 to-morrow morning, so we 
thought we would go out again and drive about a little, 
as we had so long to wait. We had a nice turn in the 
moonlight — the Cathedral looked beautiful, and we 
crossed the Rhine and drove some little distance on the 
other side of the river to have the view of the city. Now 
one or two Frenchmen who are here are talking to W. 
They have brought us tea, and I am scribbling this to 
you. 

It is delightful, Dear, to think that to-morrow at break- 
fast I shall be telling you all this, and Baby sitting up in 
his high chair, looking at me hard out of his round, blue 
eyes. There is one good thing in getting home, I 
needn't write any more letters. 



i88 3 ] ARRIVAL IN PARIS 165 

To G. K. S. 

Paris, 
31 rue dumont d'urville, 
July 5th, 1883. 

We got back this morning at 10 o'clock. The jour- 
ney was very comfortable — there is nothing like those 
French "lits-salons." Our departure from Cologne was 
rather amusing. The Chef de Gare summoned us at 
the last moment — all the passengers had taken their 
places, the doors were shut, officials careering up and 
down the platform, and yet the train didn't start. Va- 
rious heads were put out of the windows, and one or two 
irate gentlemen inquired what they were waiting for, 
and why didn't we start. Then we appeared strolling 
leisurely down the platform, with a small suite of gentle- 
men, officers, etc. The adieux were again a little long, 
and really one man was bursting with rage, and not at 
all mollified when he heard it was an Ambassador return- 
ing to France after the Coronation; "he supposed Am- 
bassadors could be as punctual as anybody else, and when 
an express started at 10.30, it was 10.30 for everybody." 

We were very pleased to find Hubert and the coupe 
waiting for us at the Gare de l'Est, and Baby and 
Nounou in the street at the door of the porte cochere. 

Well, the Moscow Coronation is over — I wonder what 
the next turn of the wheel will bring us. 



PART II 
TEN YEARS IN ENGLAND 



To G. K. S. 

Boulogne-sur-Mer, 
August, 1883. 

Here we are after all settled for a month at the sea. I 
really needed the change and the sea-air after the fatigues 
of Moscow, and I was glad to get out of my own house, 
which is still crowded with boxes and huge cases labelled 
Waddington Couronncment, which now will not be un- 
packed, but go direct to London, as all the Court dresses, 
gala liveries, harness, etc., will be needed there. 

We decided just at the last moment to come here, and 
consequently couldn't get a house near the big hotels in 
the real "quartier des baigneurs," so we have taken one 
quite the other end of the town near all the fishing boats. 
They are a never-failing attraction. We love to see them 
go out, and, above all, come in, when all the women, 
bare-legged, and with flat baskets on their backs, go out 
to meet them and bring in the fish. W. wanted us to 
come here, as he was in London and thought he would 
often get over from Saturday to Monday. 

I made my first visit to the Embassy on the 15th of 

August (Journee de l'Assomption). W. thought I had 

better come over and see the house before arriving in 

November to take possession. We started quite cheer- 

167 



1 68 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Aug. 

fully. It was warm and bright with a good breeze — a 
few white-caps, but nothing out of the way. We saw 
the boats dance a little as they came in, but didn't real- 
ise what a gale was blowing until we got on board of 
ours. The wind was howling through the rigging, and 
the Captain told us he couldn't start, as the wind was 
blowing the water off the bar. It increased very much 
while we were waiting, and several passengers left the 
boat and stayed over in Boulogne until the next day. 
However we had promised to go; we are fairly good sail- 
ors, and W. had just two idle days he could give us 
in London — so we started. It was certainly the worst 
crossing I have ever made. The boat rolled and pitched 
terribly, we shipped heavy seas all the time, and arrived 
at Folkestone shivering and drenched. All the way to 
London we felt little streams of water running down our 
backs, and our hats were a curiosity — filled with water 
like a bowl. We emptied them on the quay, but the 
feathers, of course, were finished. We were met at Vic- 
toria by two swell young secretaries, in evening dress, 
with gardenias in their button-holes, who had come to 
meet their Ambassadress; and I have wondered since 
what impression they had of the limp, damp, exhausted 
female they extracted from the reserved saloon carriage. 
It was only a few minutes' drive to the Embassy at Al- 
bert Gate, where we were received by a stout porter and 
a most distinguished "groom of the chambers," dressed 
in black, with a silver chain around his neck. We dined 
alone in a fair-sized dining-room, with splendid Gobelin 
tapestries on the walls. W. came in about n, having 
had a man's dinner with Gladstone. 

The next day we went all over the house, which is 
neither handsome nor comfortable. It is high and nar- 
row, like a cage, with no very large rooms, and a general 



i88 3 ] THE EMBASSY AT ALBERT GATE 169 

appearance of dinginess and accumulated dust. How- 
ever, the Minister has promised to paint and clean, and 
to do over the small drawing-room entirely, just as I like. 
Of course I shall have blue satin — you remember how I 
always like blue everywhere, on me and near me. The 
situation is delightful, on the Park — just at Albert Gate. 
The windows and balconies of the drawing-rooms give 
on the drive, and the "Row" is so near that I could 
easily recognise horses and riders. The season is prac- 
tically over, but I have just seen a pretty group pass; a 
lady mounted on a fine chestnut and a child on each side 
of her on nice, small fat ponies; close to the little girl, 
about eight years old, with her fair hair streaming down 
her back from under a blue cap, rides an old groom, evi- 
dently much pleased with his little lady's performance, 
and watching her so carefully. 

Our inspection of the house took us all the morning. 
The kitchen, offices, servants' hall and rooms are enor- 
mous, and in very bad order. I should think it would 
take weeks to get it clean and habitable, and need an 
army of servants to keep it so. I am thinking rather 
sadly of my little hotel in Paris, so clean and bright, with 
not a dark corner anywhere. 

We went out driving in the afternoon, and I had my 
first experience as Ambassadress, as the coachman drove 
down Constitution Hill — a right of way reserved for 
Royalties and the Corps Diplomatique. We went 
straight to Mrs. Brown, the famous milliner, in Bond 
Street, to get ourselves new hats, as ours were quite im- 
possible after our very lively passage, and the house- 
maid at Albert Gate had a handsome present of two 
hats with drooping feathers and a strong smell of sea 
and salt. London was of course empty, but a few car- 
riages were in the park, and it amused us to drive about 



170 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Aug. 

and see all the shops, and the general look of the streets, 
so different from Paris. 

We spent our evening quietly at home looking over our 
installation with W., horses, carriages, servants, and in 
fact the complete organisation of a big London house, 
which is so unlike a French one. I shall bring over all 
my French servants and add as many English as are 
necessary. I don't quite see Hubert, our French coach- 
man, driving about the London streets, and keeping to 
the left. I should think we should have daily discussions 
with all the drivers in London; however, we must try. 
I wonder if I shall like being an Ambassadress, and I also 
wonder how long we shall stay here. My brother-in- 
law R. says perhaps two years. 

We got back three days ago — started on a bright sum- 
mer's day. The Ambassador and secretaries came down 
to the station to see us off, and W. promised to come 
over and spend Sunday. We had an ideal crossing — 
blue sky, bright sun, and few passengers, and, notwith- 
standing our hard experience in the first passage, we are 
glad to have been over and made acquaintance with the 
personnel of the Embassy, also to have seen the house 
and realized a little what I must bring over to give it a 
look of home. 

This morning we have the news of the Comte de 
Chambord's death, and I am wondering if it will make 
any political complication. However, for years past he 
has only been a name — a most honourable one certainly — 
but one wants more than that to deal with the present 
state of France. 

After all W. never came over. Although London was 
empty, he had always some business to attend to, and on 
Sunday usually went to see some friends in the country. 
Last Sunday he spent with Lord Granville at Walmer, 



i88 3 ] BOULOGNE-SUR-MER 171 

which he said was delightful. The castle so close to the 
sea that the big ships passed almost under the windows; 
Granville himself a charming host. He knows France 
and the French well, having been a great deal in Paris 
as a boy when his father was British Ambassador to 
Louis Philippe (1830-4); Lord Palmerston was then 
British Foreign Secretary. 

We are very busy these days making our "pacquets," 
as we leave in three days. I am sorry to go, as I have so 
much enjoyed the quiet life with the sisters and the chil- 
dren. We have seen few people, as we are not in the 
fashionable quarter, but we have become most intimate 
with all the fishing population. The young women and 
girls jibe at us when we go shrimp fishing, on terms of 
perfect equality — there are no distinctions in the sea — 
because we have not the sleight of hand necessary to jerk 
the shining, slippery little fish into the basket from the 
net. Some local swell, the Mayor, I think, came to see 
me the other day, and was told I was on the beach, so 
he came down and was much astonished when they 
pointed out to him Madame l'Ambassadrice in a hat and 
feathers, diamond ear-rings, very short skirts, and neither 
shoes nor stockings, walking up to her knees in the 
water with a fishing-net in one hand and a basket in the 
other, and followed by her little son and niece similarly 
equipped, all quite happy and engrossed with their sport. 
We have one or two country visits to make, and then I 
must have some time in Paris to dismantle my house 
and make my preparations for London. 



172 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Nov. 



To J. K. 

Mersham Hatch, Ashford, Kent, 
Wednesday, November 28, 1883. 

You will say I am taking up my old habits of writing 
to you always from the country, but you cannot im- 
agine how busy I have been in London since I came 
over just 2 weeks ago to-day. 

We came down here Monday afternoon to stay with 
W.'s old college friend and cousin, Charles Monk. The 
house and park are charming — quantities of large, com- 
fortable rooms, and capital shooting. The gentlemen 
brought down a great many pheasants yesterday. The 
party in the house are Lord and Lady Abinger and Miss 
Scarlett, Sir George and Lady Chetwode, Mr. Leveson- 
Gower, a brother of Lord Granville, with a most polished 
courteous manner; a Mr. Price W. Powel, and a young 
Wm. Gladstone, nephew of the Premier. Monk has no 
wife, and three unmarried daughters; the eldest, Julia, 
does the honours very well and simply. I absolutely de- 
clined the 9.30 breakfast and asked to have my tea sent 
up to me. 

Yesterday I came down about 12, took a little turn in 
the garden until one, and at 1.30 had luncheon. Then 
we went for a drive to Eastwood, the Duke of Edin- 
burgh's place. The house is not so large as this, but 
the park is charming, with quantities of deer. We had 
tea when we came in — some of the gentlemen appeared 
and we dined at 8, all the ladies most gorgeous in satin, 
lace, and diamonds, the girls generally in white. After 
dinner we talked a little, then some of them played 
whist, and the young ladies sang. This morning the 
gentlemen have started again shooting, and I shall sit 



i88 3 ] A COUNTRY HOUSE IN KENT 173 

in my room quite quietly until 12, which gives me an 
hour and a half with the ladies before luncheon. 



Thursday, 29th. 

W. is off again "running for partridges," whatever that 
may mean, and at 3 we go back to London. He has a 
big dinner somewhere to-night. Yesterday two ladies 
came over to luncheon, and in the afternoon Julia Monk 
and I took a drive in the pony carriage to meet the 
sportsmen, who had a very busy day. In the evening 
we made a little music, Miss Scarlett played very well. I 
expect to be very busy all this next week in London. 
The workmen will be out of the drawing-rooms, and I 
shall get all kinds of little odd tables and chairs and un- 
pack my own bibelots. The carriages arrive, too, and 
we must decide about horses. Two English giants are 
engaged as footmen, of equal height, to go on the gala 
carriage, and we have our own two Frenchmen, one of 
whom is very tall. He and Adelaide came down here 
with us, and Adelaide is much entertained at the respect 
with which she is treated. She looked quite a swell yes- 
terday with her black silk dress, but she says the other 
maids are much more dressy, attired in black velvet and 
satin and open dresses. Soon there will be nothing left 
for the mistresses. 

I will stop now, as I must be down a little earlier this 
morning. I hope you will soon be settled in Washing- 
ton, and that the children will have no more scarlet fever 
or measles complications. 



i74 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S .WIFE [Dec. 

To H. L. K. 

French Embassy, Albert Gate, 
December i, 1883. 

I am gradually settling down, but everything, hours, 
service, habits, servants, is so different that I still feel 
rather strange. I quite sympathised with Francis, who 
was already unhappy at leaving Paris and his dear "Nou- 
nou," and very much put out with his new German 
governess who was deadly ill crossing. His woes cul- 
minated on arriving at Albert Gate, when he was sol- 
emnly conducted upstairs by a very tall footman to his 
room (a nice large nursery and bedroom giving on the 
Park), and he wept bitterly and refused to eat any dinner 
or to have his coat and hat taken off. A great many people 
have been to see us, and we shall have some quiet din- 
ners — and a shooting party at Mr. Monk's one of these 
days. 

The shooting party at Mr. Monk's was pleasant. He 
has a fine large house and capital shooting. The ladies 
walked about a little and followed some battues, and 
everyone assembled in the drawing-room for tea. All 
the women in full dress and diamonds for dinner. 

Our Harcourt dinnner was pleasant. Sir William is 
charming — such an easy talker, with no pose of any kind. 
It is decided that Lady Harcourt presents me to the 
Queen. Lady Granville is away, and it falls upon her 
as wife of the Home Secretary. Sir William had been 
to Windsor, and had told the Queen of the curious co- 
incidence — the French Ambassadress, an American, pre- 
sented by the wife of the British Home Secretary, also an 
American,* and an amie d'enfance of Mrs. Waddington. 

* Lady Harcourt is a daughter of the late John Lothrop Motley, the his- 
torian. 



i88 3 ] A VISIT TO WINDSOR 175 

I had some little difficulty in finding out what I was to 
wear (as there is little etiquette at the English Court 
upon these occasions), but they finally told me ordinary 
visiting dress, so I shall wear my blue velvet. We go 
down to lunch and see the Queen afterward. 

December 7, 1883. 

I have had my audience to-day, and will write to you 
at once while I still remember it all. First I must tell 
you about Francis. He heard someone asking me the 
other day if I had been yet to see the Queen. I saw his 
face change a little, so when we were alone, he said, 
tremulously, "Tu vas voir la Reine?" "Oui, mon fils." 
"Est-elle toujours si mechante?" "Mais la Reine n'est 
pas mechante, mon enfant." "Elle ne vas pas te faire 
couper la tete?" Evidently his mind had been running 
on the Tower of London, where we went the other day, 
and where the block on which Anne Boleyn and Lady 
Jane Grey had their heads cut off was of course shown. 
When he heard I was going to see the Queen, his heart 
failed him, and I had some difficulty in comforting him, 
and explaining that sovereigns in these days didn't have 
recourse to such extreme measures (at least in civilised 
countries. I suppose the Shah of Persia wouldn't hesi- 
tate to dispose of a head that was in his way). 

Lady Harcourt and I started for Paddington at 1 
o'clock, and got to Windsor a little before two. We 
found a landau with two servants in plain black liveries 
waiting for us, and we drove at once to the Castle. It 
was a beautiful bright day, but snow had fallen heavily 
in the country, so that the old gray walls and round tow- 
ers stood out splendidly as we drove up. We drove 
through several courts and finally drew up at an entrance 
where there were five servants in the royal red liveries 



176 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Dec. 

with crape on their sleeves (all the Queen's household are 
always in mourning), a big Highlander in full dress, and 
a butler in black who ushered us into a large drawing- 
room with an enormous bow-window looking on the 
Park. Instantly there appeared Lady Erroll, lady in 
waiting, and four maids of honour. Lady Erroll shook 
hands and introduced the maids of honour, who made us 
low curtseys. Then came Lord Methuen — Lord in wait- 
ing — and we went at once in to luncheon. Everything 
was served on silver plate; there were four footmen and 
a butler, but the repast was of the simplest description — 
an ordinary English luncheon — roast mutton, fowl, pud- 
ding, apple-tart, etc. After luncheon we talked a little, 
and then Sir Henry Ponsonby appeared to give Lady 
Harcourt her last instructions. It was the first time 
she had presented an Ambassadress in a private 
audience. Precisely at three a servant in black ap- 
peared and said, "Will you come to see the Queen?" 
Lady Harcourt, Ponsonby, and I proceeded down a 
handsome long corridor rilled with pictures, vitrines, 
of china principally, and old furniture, to a room at 
one end where a footman was standing. Sir Henry 
opened the door, Lady Harcourt made a low curtsey 
at the threshold, saying, "I have the honour to pre- 
sent the French Ambassadress," and then immediately 
backed herself out, and I found myself in the room. 
I made a first low curtsey, but before I had time to make 
another the Queen, who was standing in the middle of 
the room with Princess Beatrice, advanced a step, shook 
hands, and said, with a very pretty smile and manner, 
"I am very glad to see you." She asked me to sit down, 
and talked a great deal, was most gracious, asked me if I 
was getting accustomed to the climate and the stairs, 
whether I had seen all my "colleagues," and how many 



i88 3 ] AUDIENCE WITH THE QUEEN 177 

children I had. When I said one little boy whom I had left 
in London, she asked me what he was doing; I thought I 
would tell her about his fears for his mother's head, so I 
replied he was trembling at home until his mother should 
return. She looked a little surprised, but was really 
amused, and laughed when I told her his preoccupations; 
said, "Poor little boy, how glad he will be to see his 
mother back with her head on her shoulders." 

Princess Beatrice took no part in the conversation. 
She looked smiling and very intelligent. The Queen 
was very simply dressed in black, with her white widow's 
cap and veil, no ornaments, but a gold chain and pearls 
around her neck, and a medallion with a portrait of a man 
in uniform, whom I supposed to be Prince Albert. 
I think the interview lasted about fifteen minutes. Then 
the Queen arose, shook hands, and said she hoped my 
husband and I would like the life in England. Princess 
Beatrice shook hands — I backed myself out, and it was 
over. I was very much impressed with the Queen's per- 
sonality. She is short, stout, and her face rather red, 
but there is a great air of dignity and self-possession, and 
a beautiful smile which lights up her whole face. 

I never could find out any minor details in dress, as to 
taking off veil, gloves, etc., but I did as I had done with 
other Royalties and took off veil and gloves, which I hope 
was right. 

Lady Harcourt and Ponsonby were waiting for me in 
the corridor, and seemed to think my audience had been 
longer than usual — were also surprised that the Queen 
made me sit down. It seems she sometimes receives 
standing all the time, at a first formal presentation. 

As we had some little time before starting for the sta- 
tion, Ponsonby showed us part of the Castle. The great 
halls, St. George's and Waterloo, are very fine, and it was 



178 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Dec. 

interesting to see the great pictures which one has always 
seen reproduced in engravings — the Queen's Marriage, 
Coronation, Reception of King Louis Philippe, Baptism 
of the Prince of Wales, etc. One room was beautiful, 
filled with Van Dycks. We went back to the station in 
the same carriage, and Lady Harcourt and I talked hard 
all the way home. It was certainly a very simple affair; 
as little etiquette as possible, but the Castle was fine. 
The old gray fortress and its towers and crenellated walls, 
the home of the sovereign who lives there with little 
pomp and few guards — guarded by her people, in the 
same Castle, and the same surroundings as when she be- 
gan her long reign, a mere girl. When one thinks of all 
the changes she has seen in other countries — kingdoms 
and dynasties disappearing — one can realise what a long 
wise rule hers has been. It is such a contrast to my last 
Royal Audience at Moscow, which now seems a con- 
fused memory of Court officials, uniforms, gold-laced 
coats, jewelled canes (I can see one of the Chamberlains 
who had an enormous sapphire at the end of his staff), 
princes, peasants, Cossacks, costumes of every descrip- 
tion, court carriages, Russian carriages, the famous at- 
telage of three horses, every language under the sun, 
and all jostling and crowding each other in the courts 
of the Kremlin — with its wonderful churches and domes 
of every possible colour from pink to green — only sol- 
diers, soldiers everywhere, and the people kept at a dis- 
tance — very unlike what I have just seen here. 

Sunday, December 16, 1883. 

This afternoon we have had our audience of the Prince 

and Princess of Wales — W. and I together. We got 

to Marlborough House a little before 4, and were shown 

at once into a room on the ground floor, where we found 





: ' 






1 


Mi 







J. J. Jusserand, Counsellor of the French Embassy, i£ 
Recently appointed French Ambassador to the United State 
From a photograph by Walery, Paris. 



i88 3 ] AT MARLBOROUGH HOUSE 179 

Miss Knollys and a gentleman in waiting. In a few 
minutes Sir Dighton Probyn, comptroller of the house- 
hold, appeared and took us upstairs to a large, handsome 
salon. He opened the door, and we found the Prince 
and Princess standing. The room was filled with pretty 
things. The Princess was dressed in blue velvet (I too 
— I daresay Fromont made both dresses), and looked 
charming, no older than when I had seen her in Paris 
three or four years ago, and with that same beautiful 
slight figure and gracious manner. 

While the Prince and W. were talking she asked me 
a great deal about Moscow and the Coronation, and 
particularly if the Empress was well dressed always, as 
she had been rather bothered with the quantity of 
dresses, manteaux de cour, etc., that she was obliged to 
have. The Prince remembered that I was the grand- 
daughter of Rufus King, who had been United States 
Minister to London under George III. He was very 
pleasant, with a charming, courteous manner. The 
Princess instantly referred to Francis and his fears for 
his mother's head, of which she said the Queen had told 
her. 

Friday, 21st. 

This afternoon we had tea with the Duke and Duchess 
of Albany. She is a German Princess, and was rather 
shy at first, but when the tea came it was easier. The 
Duke is very amiable, talks easily. He looks, and is, I 
believe, delicate. We have a few dinners before us, and 
I am gradually getting to know all my colleagues. 
Mohrenheim is Russian Ambassador; Miinster German; 
and Nigra Italian. Miinster is practically an English- 
man. His second wife was Lady Harriet St. Clair, a 
sister of Lord Rosslyn. He is evidently English in his 



180 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE I Jan. 

tastes and habits, rides regularly in the Park, and drives 
a coach with four chestnuts that are known all over Lon- 
don. Mr. Lowell is United States Minister, and is much 
liked and appreciated in England. Mrs. Lowell is in 
bad health and goes out very little. 

To H. L. K. 

Albert Gate, 
January 5, 1884. 

This afternoon we had our audience from the old 
Duchess of Cambridge. We found her in handsome 
rooms in St. James's Palace, and one lady in waiting with 
her. She was lying on a sofa — she is very old, eighty- 
four — has seen and known everyone, and talks easily 
both French and English. It really seemed a page of 
history to listen to her. She asked us to come back, and 
Lady G. told us that when she felt well, visits were a great 
pleasure to her, and also that she was always glad to see 
any members of the French Embassy. 

We got home to tea — and then I had various skir- 
mishes with the servants. It really is difficult to make 
French and English servants work together. The butler 
is an Englishman, and directs all the men of the house. 
It is not easy to make the Frenchmen take their orders 
from him. They all want to be in direct communication 
with me. There are always two together in the hall — 
one Frenchman and one Englishman, and the result of 
that is that when anything goes wrong, and the bell is 
not answered, the Frenchman tells me he was not there, 
it was the Englishman's turn; and of course the English- 
man the same — so now I have told Holmes (the butler) 
to make me out a regular paper every Monday with the 
men's names and their hours of service — Yves et George, 
10-12; William and Charles, 12-2 — I hope that will work. 





The Duchess of Cambridge. 
From a photograph by Walery, Loudon. 



i88 4 ] MR. GLADSTONE 181 

As to Hubert he hasn't driven me yet. He goes about 
London all day in a brougham, with one of those non- 
descript English servants, half French, half English, that 
we got from the British Embassy in Paris. I find the 
domestic part of the Embassy rather a bore, but I sup- 
pose things will settle down. The housemaids are a 
delightful institution, though I was amazed upon inquir- 
ing one day from my own maid as to who was a young 
lady with a red velvet dress, and a large hat and feathers, 
I had met on the stairs, when she replied, "C'est Alice, 
Madame, la seconde fille de chambre." It seems that my 
maid remonstrated with her for spending her money on 
clothes, to which she replied that all housemaids in big 
houses dressed like that, and that she herself would be 
ashamed if she dressed as plainly as my maids. The two 
thrifty Frenchwomen were scandalised. 

London, 
January 9, 1884. 

I paid a visit to-day to the Dowager Lady Stanley of 
Alderley. I found her at her tea-table in her drawing- 
room, with Mr. Gladstone having his cup of tea with 
her, and talking easily and cheerfully about all sorts of 
things (never a word of politics); no one would have 
imagined that he was to make a gre^t speech that even- 
ing in the House. He really is an extraordinary, many- 
sided man. In the course of conversation the talk fell 
upon the Roman Catholic religion, and its extension in 
many countries, particularly in America. He said, turn- 
ing to me, that a great friend of his, an American, Mr. 
Hurlbert, certainly the most brilliant talker he had ever 
heard, and one of the most intelligent, had told him how 
much the Roman Catholic religion was gaining ground 
in the Northern States of America. I rather demurred 



1 82 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Jan. 

to his statement, even though it came from Mr. Hurl- 
bert. His intelligence and brilliancy are undeniable, but 
I should have thought his views were a little fantastic at 
times. "I rather agree with you," said Mr. Gladstone; 
"but I have recently had letters from my friends Bishop 
P. of New York, Bishop A. of Massachusetts, and other 
distinguished Churchmen in the United States, who tell 
me that the Roman Catholic religion is making certain 
progress; their preachers are so clever, and know so well 
how to adapt themselves to the liberal views they must 
have in America." We then talked some time about 
the various Bishops and clergymen he knew in America, 
the slight difference between the two Prayer Books, etc. 
One would really have thought it was a Church of Eng- 
land clergyman, who has passed all his life studying 
theological questions. A few moments after something 
turned his thoughts in another direction, and he was dis- 
cussing with Lady Stanley the translation into English 
of an Italian sonnet which he thought was badly done. 
"Too literal, really not understanding the poetry, and 
the beautiful imagination of the writer." It was extra- 
ordinary. I was rather mortified when he asked if I 
knew the two Bishops. I didn't, but it is fair to say he 
understood when I said how many years I had been away 
from America. 

Lady Stanley is a delightful old lady. She has seen 
and known everyone worth knowing in Europe for the 
last fifty years, and it is most amusing to hear her down- 
right way of talking. She was killing over the "Profes- 
sional Beauties," a style of modern woman she couldn't 
understand. She asked me to come in again and have a 
cup of tea with her, and I shall certainly go, as one doesn't 
hear such talk every day. 

We dined with Mr. Childers, and there was a big re- 



i88 4 ] POLITICS AT RECEPTIONS 183 

ception in the evening, with all the celebrities of the 
Liberal party, the Harcourts, Hayters, Lord North- 
brook, Tennyson (son of the poet), and many others, but 
of course in a crowd like that one can't talk. I hope I 
shall remember the faces. About 1 1 o'clock we went on 
to Lady Stanhope's, where there was a big reception of 
the Conservative party. There I found the Lyttons and 
some few people I knew, and many more were presented. 
They were all talking politics hard; said the Ministry 
couldn't last another week, as there is to be a vigorous 
attack on them in both Houses on Tuesday. Everyone 
says the Lyttons are going to Paris when Lord Lyons 
leaves. She will be a charming Ambassadress, and he is 
so fond of France and so thoroughly well up in French 
literature that they will be delighted to have him in 
Paris. 

The political talk was exactly like what I have heard 
so often in Paris, only in English instead of in French, 
and the men talking more quietly, though they abused 
one another well, and with less gesticulating. Also they 
don't carry politics into private life as they do with us; 
the men of opposite sides lavish abuse upon each other in 
the House, but there it ends, and they meet at dinner 
and chaff each other, and the wives are perfectly inti- 
mate. In France there is a great gulf between parties, 
even moderates, royalists, and republicans, and I was 
astounded when I first mixed in political life in France 
to see people in society turn their backs upon some per- 
fectly distinguished, honourable gentleman because he 
had not the same opinion as themselves in politics. 



1 84 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Jan. 

To H. L. K. 

Sandringham, 
January 12, 1884. 

We arrived this afternoon at two o'clock, and I am 
writing in my room, as we have come up to bed, and the 
gentlemen have retired to smoke. We came down at 
2-§, found a saloon carriage reserved for us, and the 
Mohrenheims installed — father, mother, and daughter. 
We got to Wolverton at six, one of the Prince's gentle- 
men was waiting for us with two or three carriages and 
footmen. We had all sent our servants and baggage by 
an earlier train, as it had been suggested to us. The 
house looked large and handsome as we drove up. The 
party was assembled in a great hall, with a long low tea- 
table at which the Princess presided. It was easy 
enough, and I should think a nice party. The Goschens, 
Lady Lonsdale, the Master of Magdalen, Lord Carling- 
ford, and others. The three young Princesses, Prince 
Eddy, and the Prince were all there. We talked some 
little time and then the Princess said Miss Knollys would 
show us our rooms. I found two large comfortable 
English rooms opening into each other, a blazing coal 
fire in mine, which I immediately proceeded to demolish 
as much as I could. Miss Knollys had told us not to 
bring low dresses — merely open bodices. 

We went down to the drawing-room about 8^, and 
a little before 9 the Prince and Princess and Prince Al- 
bert Victor (better known as Prince Eddy) came in. 
The dinner was handsome and pleasant, footmen in royal 
red liveries, men in black in culottes and silk stock- 
ings, and a Highlander in full dress, who stood behind 
the Prince's chair, and at the end of the dinner walked 
solemnly round the table playing the bagpipes. The 



i88 4 ] HOUSE PARTY AT SANDRINGHAM 185 

evening was pleasant. The Prince showed us the new 

ballroom just redecorated with Indian stuffs and arms, 

and at 1 1 we went upstairs with the Princess, bidding her 

good-night at the top of the stairs, and the men went to 

the smoking-room. 

Sunday. 

This morning we went to church, the ladies in an omni- 
bus with the Princess and her three daughters, and the 
gentlemen walked across the Park, the Prince appear- 
ing as the sermon began. It is a pretty English country 
church in the grounds. In the afternoon we walked 
about the grounds; I was much interested in the large 
stables, where there are certainly over fifty horses. 

We had changed our dresses after lunch for walking, 
and the Princess looked marvellously young in her short 
walking skirt and little toque. One could hardly believe 
she was the mother of her big son, twenty-one years 
old. After the walk we assembled again in the big hall 
for tea, a substantial meal with every variety of muffin, 
crumpet, toast, cakes and jam that can be imagined, but 
it seemed quite natural to consume unlimited quantities 
after our long walk. The Princess and English ladies 
were in very dressy tea-gowns, velvet and satin with lace 
and embroidery; Madame de Mohrenheim and I in ordi- 
nary tailor costumes. The evening was pleasant; I re- 
marked the absence of the Highland piper at dinner, and 
asked the Prince if he was not going to play. "Oh, no," 
he said, "not on Sunday, he certainly wouldn't; I 
shouldn't like to ask him to, and if I did I am sure he 
wouldn't do it." We all leave to-morrow, the Prince 
going with us to London. We have enjoyed our visit 
very much, the Princess always charming and lovely 
to look at, and the Prince a model host, so courteous 
and ready to talk about anything. 



1 86 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Jan. 

Monday. 

We got off this morning at n o'clock. There is one 
curious custom. The Prince himself weighs everyone, 
and the name and weight are written in a book. Some 
of the ladies protested, but it was of no use, the Prince in- 
sisted. One young lady weighed more than her father, 
and was much mortified. 

I went downstairs to breakfast, which I don't generally 
do; I keep to my old habit of a cup of tea in my room. 
It was a most informal meal. None of the Royal family 
appeared, except Prince Eddy, who was going to hunt, 
and his red coat made a nice patch of colour. All the 
rest of us sat down anywhere, and the servants brought 
the menu. We travelled up with the Prince in his pri- 
vate car, and had luncheon in the car, served by two tall 
footmen, and everything on silver plate and hot. The 
Prince himself quite charming, talking a great deal, and 
seeing that everyone had enough to eat. I should think 
all servants, railway guards, and small functionaries 
generally would adore him. He has always a pleasant 
word and a smile. 



To H. L. K. 

Albert Gate, 
January 31, 1884. 

We have had two days in the country with the D.s at 
their little hunting box at Bicester, one of the great 
hunting centres. It was my first experience of an Eng- 
lish hunt and hunt ball, and amused me perfectly. The 
house is small, with enormous stables and splendid horses. 
His four in hand is well known, one of the best in Eng- 
land, and the coach and servants so perfectly turned out. 



i88 4 ] AN ENGLISH HUNT 187 

We have two young German secretaries, good-looking 
Teutons, and two girls who have just returned from a 
four months' excursion in the tropics with the Brasseys 
in their beautiful yacht, the "Sunbeam." 

We started on the coach on Tuesday at 10.30, well 
wrapped up, as there were occasional showers and violent 
gusts of wind, particularly when we stopped at cross- 
roads to see which way the hunt was going. The meet 
was at Middleton Park, Lord Jersey's fine place, and the 
park was a pretty sight as we drove up. A good many 
people, almost all the men in pink, but not so many wom- 
en as I had expected to see. We really followed very well, 
as D. knows the ground perfectly and apparently at what 
spot the fox was to cross the road, which he did close to 
us, followed by the whole hunt, all jumping out of the 
field on to the road and back again into the other field, 
very good fences, too, but the horses evidently knew just 
what they had to do. We drove about till 3 o'clock, and 
then went back to Middleton to have luncheon. We 
found a most hospitable table, and it was funny to see 
the people dropping in at intervals, some of the men in 
their red coats, one or two ladies, and two or three chil- 
dren who had been scampering about on ponies. Evi- 
dently the meal had been going on for some time, and the 
supply inexhaustible; we had a very good hot luncheon. 

After lunch Lady Jersey (who is charming, very intel- 
ligent, and interested in everything) showed us the 
house. Beautiful pictures and old furniture, a massive 
silver table that was the dressing table of Queen Eliza- 
beth. Of course we hadn't time to really see all the 
interesting things in the house, as it was getting late, and 
we still had a fair drive before us. Notwithstanding the 
good and late luncheon we were very glad to have tea 
when we got home. I certainly eat much more here, I 



1 88 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Feb. 

suppose it is the climate, and then the food is a little 
different from what we are accustomed to, and I think 
very good. 

The hunt ball was really very pretty, the ballroom 
well arranged with foxes' heads, brushes, etc., all the men 
in pink. Everyone was "en train," and everybody of all 
ages dancing. I should think W. and D. were the only 
men in the room who didn't dance. They went home 
about 12, but H. and I stayed until 2. We heard after- 
ward that the Master of Hounds was much depressed all 
the evening, as he knew he must take the French Am- 
bassadress to supper (of course, he didn't know that I 
was American born, and could speak English), and the 
prospect of a long conversation in French with a woman 
he didn't know filled him with dismay. However we 
made friends (in English), and I hope he didn't find the 
supper hour too tiresome. There are two reasons why 
an Englishman hates to speak French; first, a sort of 
natural timidity which they all have more or less, and 
then a decided objection to doing anything he doesn't 
want to do, or which bores him. This country is cer- 
tainly a Paradise for men, from the nursery days when 
all the women of the household — nurses, maids, and sis- 
ters, are slaves of the boys, to manhood, when equally 
all the women do exactly what the men want, and regu- 
late their lives to suit the men of the family, who have 
everything their own way. 

London, 
February, 1884. 

I made my debut in the official world last night at a 
reception at Mr. Gladstone's in Downing Street. There 
were four large men's dinners (and receptions afterward) 
for the opening of Parliament. Lord Granville and Mr. 



i88 4 ] A RECEPTION AT MR. GLADSTONE'S 189 

Gladstone, Ministerial; Lord Salisbury and Sir Stafford 
Northcote, "Her Majesty's Opposition." 

The Gladstone house is small and dark (that is one 
of the things that strikes me here — the rooms are so 
much less lighted than in Paris), and always the chintz 
covers left on the furniture, which makes the rooms look 
ordinary. We found a great many people there. The 
Duke of Cambridge had been dining and was presented 
to us. He looks a fine old English soldier (was in uni- 
form), was very amiable, and spoke to me in French, 
which he speaks very well. Quantities of people were 
presented to me, I can't remember half the names. Al- 
most all the women were in black, half-high and no display 
of jewels. Mrs. Gladstone is an old lady, very animated 
and civil, she wears a cap, with blue ribbons, rather as I 
remember Mother. I was also presented to Countess 
Karolyi, Austrian Ambassadress, very handsome, and 
charming manner; she speaks English as well as I do. It 
seems strange to me to hear so much English spoken, it 
is so long since I have been in a purely English salon. 
W. brought me up various old friends of Rugby and 
Cambridge days; also some of the minor diplomats, as of 
course I have not yet seen all my colleagues. 

Albert Gate, 
February, 1884. 

I am rather bewildered by the number of people I see 
and the quantity of cards left at the Embassy. I shall 
have to ask an English friend of mine to look over my 
list and tell me who the people are, and, above all, which 
cards I must return personally (or even make a personal 
visit) and which can be distributed by the Chancellerie. 
I drive about every afternoon for two hours leaving 
cards, and as no one has regular reception days here as 



190 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Fek 

in Paris, I rarely find people. We have had various din- 
ners, political chiefly, at Mr. Gladstone's, Lord Stan- 
hope's, Lord Northbrook's, a child's party at Marl- 
borough House, which was very pretty. Francis made 
great friends with the two charming little daughters of 
the Duchess of Edinburgh, and sat between them at tea, 
the Duchess herself supplying them with cakes and sand- 
wiches. 

Yesterday there was a pleasant dinner at Lord Gran- 
ville's. Two tables of 12; one presided over by him and 
one by Lady Granville. Her table was covered with red 
tulips, and his with yellow — nothing but flowers on the 
table. The drawing-rooms are large and handsome, and 
he has some splendid pictures. One thing seems curious 
to me — all the furniture at this season is covered with 
ordinary chintz housses or coverings — and the effect is. 
strange with all the guests in full dress, diamonds and 
orders, servants in powder and breeches. We would 
never dream of doing it in Paris. When we have dis- 
tinguished people of any kind to dine we make our 
salons as pretty as possible, and would want particularly 
to uncover our handsome furniture. Here it seems they 
consider that the season only begins after Easter. 

Apropos of powder, it was rather an affair to put the 
two French footmen in powder, as they of course had 
never worn it or seen it. Francis was much excited at 
Yves' appearance in blue velvet breeches and powder, 
Yves being a young Breton, his own special attendant. 
I think the maids powdered him in the laundry. How- 
ever Francis came flying downstairs holding the reluc- 
tant Yves by the hand, to my room, saying, "Oh, 
Maman, viens voir Yves, il est joli, joli !" with the youth 
naturally much abashed at being so complimented in my 
presence. 



i88 4 j COMMANDED TO WINDSOR 191 

To H. L. K. 

February 29, 1884. 
We are commanded to Windsor this evening to dine 
and sleep. It is inconvenient, as we have to put off a din- 
ner of twenty-one people. The chef is tearing his hair, as 
of course all his dinner is ready. When my maid came to 
pack the trunks she had rather a flustered look; I thought 
it was on account of the Windsor visit. Not at all. It 
seems a friend of Juteau's (our chef), who is also a chef in 
one of the great houses, heard that we were going to 
Windsor, so he wrote him a note telling him that his wife 
(my maid) must be well dressed and take a low or open 
bodice to Windsor for their dinner. The maid was most 
indignant for being supposed not to know what was right, 
and answered the note saying, "she had accompanied her 
mistress to every court in Europe, and knew quite well 
how to dress herself." 

Windsor Castle, 
March i, 1884. 

Our dinner last night went off very well, and was not 
so stiff as I had expected. We took the 6 o'clock train 
from Paddington, and found the Russian Ambassador, 
Baron Mohrenheim, and his wife at the station. At 
Windsor two or three carriages and footmen were wait- 
ing, but no equerry as at Sandringham. We were driven 
to a side door at the Castle, where two servants in plain 
black were waiting, who showed us at once to our rooms. 
We had a pretty apartment furnished in yellow satin, with 
beautiful pictures, principally portraits; a small salon with 
a bedroom on each side, bright fires burning, and a quan- 
tity of candles. They brought us tea, beautifully served 
all on silver, with thin bread and butter (no muffins or 
toast), and almost at the same moment Sir John Cowell, 



192 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [March 

Master of the Household, came to pay us a visit. He 
told us who the party was, said dinner was at 8.45, that a 
page would come and tell us at 8.30, and that we should 
assemble in the great corridor. Quite punctually at 8.30 
they notified us, and we proceeded down the long corri- 
dor, W. in black breeches and stockings (no order, as 
he hadn't the Legion d'Honneur, and couldn't wear a 
foreign order), I in white brocaded velvet and diamonds. 
We found the party assembled, the Mohrenheims; Lord 
and Lady Kimberley; Nigra, Italian Ambassador; Lady 
Churchill (who was in waiting) ; Lord Kenmare (Lord 
Chamberlain), and Lord Dalhousie (Lord in waiting) 
and one or two other men. We moved up to a door just 
opposite the dining-room, and about 9 the Queen came 
with the Duchess of Edinburgh and Princess Beatrice. 
She shook hands with me and Madame Mohrenheim; 
bowed very graciously to all the others, and passed at 
once into the dining-room alone. Mohrenheim followed 
with the Duchess of Edinburgh; Nigra with Princess 
Beatrice; W. with Madame Mohrenheim; and Kimber- 
ley took me. The table was handsome, covered with 
gold and silver plate, quantities of servants in red livery, 
plain black, and two Highlanders in costume behind the 
Queen's chair. 

The conversation was not very animated. The Queen 
herself spoke little, and the English not at all — or so low 
that one couldn't understand them — however, my Am- 
bassador couldn't stand that long, so he began talking- 
most cheerfully to the Duchess of Edinburgh about Mos- 
cow, Kertch, and antiquities of various kinds, and as the 
Duchess is clever and inclined to talk, that corner became 
more lively. I can't say as much for our end. I think 
most Englishmen are naturally shy, and the presence of 
Royalty (the Queen above all) paralyses them. 



i8S 4 ] THE QUEEN'S CERCLE 193 

After dinner, which was quickly served, we all went 
out as we had come in, and the Queen held a short cercle 
in the corridor, in the small space between the two doors. 
She stood a few minutes talking to the two Princesses, 
while she had her coffee (which was brought for her 
alone on a small tray), and then crossed over to Madame 
Mohrenheim and talked a little. She sat down almost 
immediately, Madame Mohrenheim remaining standing. 
She then sent for me, Lord Dalhousie summoning us all 
in turn. She was very gracious, saying that she could not 
yet stand or walk, which worried her very much — asked 
me a great deal about my life in London, did I find every- 
thing very different from Paris, and had I found little 
friends and a school for Francis? The conversation was 
not easy. She sat on rather a low chair, and I standing 
before her had to bend down always. She was dressed in 
black, with her usual little cap and veil, opal necklace, 
diamonds and orders. While she was talking to the 
others the two Princesses moved about and talked to us. 
It was pleasant — the whole cercle lasted about an hour. 
The Queen and Princesses retired together, all shaking 
hands with me and Madame Mohrenheim, and bowing to 
the others. We finished the evening in the drawing- 
room with the household, staying there about half an 
hour, and a little after eleven we broke up. W. has gone 
off to smoke — at the extreme end of the Castle, as the 
Queen hates smoke and perhaps doesn't know that any- 
one dares smoke here — and I am writing with about 
twelve tall wax candles on my table. 

It is a bright moonlight night, and the Castle looks 
enormous. A great mass of towers, vaulted gateways, 
walled courts, and the beautiful grass slopes that look 
quite green in the moonlight. The lights at the far end 
seem like twinkling tapers. It is certainly a magnificent 
Roval residence. 



194 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

Saturday, March 1884. 
We got back for lunch, leaving the Castle at 10.30. 
We breakfasted with the household at 9.30; no cere- 
mony, people coming in as they liked, and sitting down 
anywhere. We loitered a little in the corridor until it 
was time to start, looking at the pictures, portraits, and 
the curious cabinets and the bits of old furniture which 
are interesting. 

To H. L. K. 

Albert Gate, 
March 14, 1884. 

To-day was our first Drawing-room, and we turned out 
in great force, I had three secretaries' wives. We had 
out our two carriages. W. and I in the gala carriage 
with Count de Florian, Secretary of Embassy, Hubert 
driving us, and two English giants behind; then came 
the landau with merely one footman on the box, all 
in full dress livery, blue breeches, silk stockings, and 
powdered wigs. There was a great display of troops, 
and a crowd waiting on the pavement outside the door 
at the Embassy to see us start. There are no porte- 
cocheres in London, so you go straight out into the 
street to get your carriages, and a carpet is kept in the 
hall, which is rolled down the steps every time you go 
out. The streets were crowded as we came near Buck- 
ingham Palace. 

We entered the Palace by a side entrance, leaving our 
wraps in one of the rooms, and went up the great stair- 
case, which was a pretty sight. Quantities of plants and 
flowers and a long procession of women with handsome 
Court dresses, splendid tiaras, and a few men in uniform 
—of course women preponderate. We walked through 
various rooms all filled with Court functionaries, officers 



i88 4 ] A DRAWING-ROOM 195 

in uniform, and finally arrived in the large salon open- 
ing into the Throne-Room where all the Corps Diplo- 
matique and English people who had the entree were 
assembled. Countess Granville, wife of the Foreign 
Secretary, Earl Granville, looked most distinguished, 
tall and fair, in black with a handsome tiara. Countess 
Karolyi, Austrian Ambassadress, was beautiful in her 
Hungarian costume and splendid jewels. The Russians 
also most picturesque in their national court dress, red 
velvet trains heavily embroidered in gold, white veils 
spangled with gold, and the high head-dress (kakoshnik) 
in velvet studded with jewels. 

When the doors were opened the Foreign Secretary 
and his wife passed first and took up their station close 
beside the Princess of Wales, to name the members of 
the Corps Diplomatique. Then the Master of Cere- 
monies gave his hand to the Doyenne — the Austrian 
Ambassadress — her train was spread out by two pages, 
— and they entered the Throne-Room, making low bows 
or curtseys on the threshold. One makes 3 curtseys; one 
on entering the room, one half way and a third as one 
gets close to the Princess. We followed quickly, I with 
my ladies coming directly behind the Russians. The 
Court was small — Princess of Wales, Princess Beatrice, 
Prince of Wales and Duke of Cambridge. The Princess, 
a charming graceful figure dressed in dark velvet with 
coloured embroideries and jewels and orders; Princess 
Beatrice in mauve, and the two Princes in uniform of 
English Field Marshal. The Princesses shook hands 
with us chefesses and bowed to the young ladies — the 
Princes the same. There was no sort of trouble about 
the train; they are down only for a moment, just as you 
pass the Queen or Princess — a chamberlain picks them 
up most adroitly, puts them in your arm, and one never 



196 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE imar. 

gives them a thought. As soon as we had passed the 
group of Princes we turned into a deep window recess 
and stood there until the end. That was most amusing, 
as we faced the door and saw everyone come in. It 
amused and interested me extremely to see how differ- 
ently people passed. Most of the women looked well, 
their fresh, fair skins standing the test — and a pretty 
severe one it is — of full dress, white feathers and veil at 
three in the afternoon of a cold March day. Many had 
been dressed since 12, first sitting a long time in their 
carriages, and then waiting a long time in the diawing- 
room at the Palace, until their turns came. They were 
generally timid and nervous when they passed — some 
bracing themselves as if they were facing a terrible ordeal, 
some racing past very quickly, forgetting to take their 
trains in their arms, and pursued down the room by an 
impatient chamberlain, and some, especially the debu- 
tantes, making carefully and conscientiously the low 
regulation curtsey to each Prince, and trembling with 
shyness. When the last person had passed the Court 
turned and made us bows and curtseys — the Princess' 
half curtsey is charming — and it was over. We all got 
away quickly. 

The great hall was an interesting sight, filled with 
women and uniforms of every kind, and a band playing 
in the great square. We had the usual "Drawing-room 
tea" to show our dresses. I wore the blue embroidered 
Court dress I had made for Moscow, with blue feathers 
and diamond tiara. All the English women wear white 
feathers and veils, which naturally does not suit every- 
one, particularly if they are not well put on. Some of 
the coiffures were almost eccentric, one rather high 
feather, and a long one very low running down one's 
back. The young men were pleased, as they had many 



1884] THE DERBY 197 

compliments for our carriages and liveries. We were the 
only Embassy that had out two carriages. 

To G. K. S. 

London, 
May, 1884. 

We went to the Derby this morning with Lord Cork. 
I had never been, and W. not for many years. We went 
down by train — (special, with the Prince and racing co- 
terie) and I enjoyed the day. We were in the Jockey 
Club box, and it was a curiosity to see the crowd on the 
lawn, packed tight, and every description of person, all 
engrossed with the race, and wildly interested in the 
horses. There was almost a solemn silence just before 
the Derby was run. This time there was a tie, which 
is rare, I believe. It was rather amusing driving home 
from Victoria, as all the balconies along the road were 
decorated, and crowded with people, but I believe the 
great fashion of driving down had almost disappeared. 
Nearly everyone now goes down by train. 

London, 
June 28, 1884. 

This morning H. and I went to the second meet of the 
Coaching Club on D.'s coach. It was a pretty sight; a 
bright beautiful morning and Hyde Park crowded with 
equipages, riders, and pedestrians — quantities of pretty 
women all much dressed, principally in white, with hats 
trimmed with flowers, and light parasols. The tops of 
the coaches looked like flower beds. Everyone en- 
grossed with the teams, criticising and admiring with 
perfect frankness. The fly-drivers were killing, knew 
all the horses, and expressed themselves freely on the way 
they were handled. 

We drove through the Park, and then on to Richmond 



198 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

(not all the coaches), where we breakfasted at the "Star 
and Garter." The breakfast was good, and at dessert we 
had "Maids of Honour," the famous cakes that one always 
gets there. We walked about the Park a little after 
breakfast; it was delightful under the big trees, and then 
mounted our coach again and went back by Hurlingham 
to see a polo match. The road was crowded and driving 
very difficult, but D. is a capital whip, and I wasn't in the 
least nervous, though sometimes it did seem as if the 
bit of road they left us was rather narrow. However D. 
drove straight on without slackening — and they do make 
way for a coach. I think it is a sort of national pride in 
a fine team. 

Hurlingham is very pretty and there were quantities 
of people there. We saw very well from the top of the 
coach, and I must say the game was beautifully played. 
Of course the men all rode perfectly, but the ponies were 
so clever, quite as keen as the riders, and seemed to know 
all about it. We got back to the Embassy about 8, and 
happily had no one to dinner, but sat on the balcony all 
the evening, W. smoking, and talking about his confer- 
ence, which is not going smoothly. The English are 
stiff, and the people at home unreasonable. I can't im- 
agine how French and English can ever work together 
— they are so absolutely unlike. 

London, July, 1884. 

W. went to Paris this morning and H. and I are left 
to our own devices. I dined alone at the Speaker's and 
it was pleasant. After dinner we went down to the 
terrace and walked and sat about. It was so warm 
that we all sat there with bare arms and necks. It was so 
pretty; boats passing on the river, all the bridges lighted, 
and so cool and dark on the terrace that one could 




M. and Mme. Waddington and Their Son. 
Frnm a photograph by Cesar, Paris. 



1884] THE MURDER OF GORDON 199 

hardly recognise the people as they walked up and down. 
I went back to the Embassy to get H., and we went to 
Devonshire House, where there was a big reception — 
all the world there, and the house very handsome, a fine 
staircase; Lord Hartington receiving us, as the Duke is 
an old man and couldn't stand the fatigue. 

To G. K. S. 

Albert Gate, 
February 9, 1885. 

This morning we have the news of the fall of Khar- 
toum and the murder of Gordon. W. is in the country 
trying horses, so I put on my hat and went out into the 
Row to hear what was going on. It was crowded with 
people talking and gesticulating. The Conservatives 
furious, "such a ministry a disgrace to the country," and 
a tall man on a handsome chestnut, talking to Admiral 
C. most energetically, "I am a moderate man myself, but 
I would willingly give a hand to hang Gladstone on this 
tree." They are much disgusted — and with reason. 

Monday, February 23, 1885. 
It seems to be my week, Dear Gertrude, so I will at 
any rate begin this morning. We are now in full tide 
of dinners and routs, which last is the most frightful spe- 
cies of entertainment that the human mind has ever de- 
vised. They consist of 400 or 500 people packed close 
in a house which holds about 150 — so warm in the rooms 
that you almost stifle — and so cold on the staircase and 
halls where the door is always open wide that I always 
wonder how I can escape without a fluxion de poitrine. 
We had a banquet ourselves last Tuesday, Harcourts 
Munsters, Corks, etc., followed by a mild dance, which 
was however successful, as Pourtales, who is a gay little 



200 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Feb. 

fellow, led a spirited cotillon, and there were 22 couples. 
I performed 2 quadrilles, which, naturally, is the extent of 
my dancing now, unless I take a stray turn with an old 
partner. 

Of course the great excitement has been the departure 
of the Guards for Egypt, as it takes the husbands, sons, 
and brothers of half London away. It does seem such a 
useless campaign and sacrifice of human life. 

There was a child's party at Marlborough House on 
Friday afternoon which was very successful. Mimi and 
I were bidden, or commanded, as the correct phrase is, 
at 4 o'clock, so we took ourselves off, he in his white 
sailor suit, with blue collar, and I in blue velvet. Both 
Prince and Princess were very amiable, and the Duchess 
of Edinburgh was very good to Mimi, as she always is, 
making him sit by her daughters to see the conjuror, and 
at her table for tea. The children had their tea in 
the dining-room, with a great many little round tables, 
we had ours with the Princess. It is very informal, she 
always makes it herself, and everyone sits down. The 
Princess Louise was also there, looking very nice, and 
such a pretty figure. After the tea the children had a 
fine romp, ending with a most animated Sir Roger de 
Coverley, in which all the Princes — I mean the 2 young- 
er ones, Prince Eddy and Prince George — joined, and 
all the Aides-de-Camp. We didn't leave till 7 — and the 
afternoon was rather long, but still I must say I enjoyed 
myself. 

Yesterday we had a pleasant dinner at Lady Hayter's 
— a Liberal political salon. She has big dinners — recep- 
tions every Saturday. It was pleasant at first, until many 
more people came than the house would hold, but that is 
what the "Maitresse de Maison" particularly aims at. 

Everyone here sympathises with Lowell on the death 



i88 5 ] LORD SALISBURY AS A SPEAKER 201 

of his wife. She was so very peculiar. I wrote him a 
little note, as he was always very amiable to me and com- 
plimentary about Father and Grandpa. This evening 
we had a dinner at Julia, Lady Tweeddale's, who is 
chaperoning her niece, Sir Robert Peel's daughter. 

Tuesday. 
I couldn't finish last evening, so take up my let- 
ter now at 7 o'clock, while I am waiting to dress for 
dinner. It is a quiet dinner at the Miss Monks' — two 
cousins, maiden ladies — and I shall wear a high dress, 
which is much easier to get into. Our dinner last 
night was pleasant and swell — Duke and Duchess of 
Leeds, Lord and Lady Delawarr, Lord and Lady Claud 
Hamilton (she a beauty, with a fine figure; he an 
attractive Irishman, son of the Duke of Abercorn) and 
others. They danced afterwards, and we stayed till 12 
o'clock. The pose of the fast young married set is not 
to dance. There is no one to dance with, the Guards 
are gone. The Row was lovely this morning, like a 
May day, everybody out. I hope to begin to ride again 
next week. I am in treaty for a very handsome chest- 
nut, if the man will come down a little in his price. 

Albert Gate, 
February 25, 1885. 

We have been to-day to the House of Lords to hear 
Lord Salisbury speak and the vote of censure passed. 
The House was full — the Prince and Duke of Cambridge 
there. Lord Salisbury spoke well ; very calm, very nasty 
for his adversaries, and as he had the beau role he was 
much applauded. The defence was weak, the orator 
feeling evidently that his cause was a bad one, and the 
temper of the House against him. I should think Lord 



202 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

Salisbury would be a most unpleasant adversary, though 
always perfectly courteous in manner. 



To J. K. 

Ambassade de France a Londres, 
Monday, March 9, 1885. 

This is my week again, Dear Jan, and I will begin to- 
day. 

We are going on in a wildry dissipated manner. Last 
week was very full. We went to a very pretty ball given 
by the Artillery Company of London to the Prince and 
Princess. The Duke of Portland, a young fellow, is 
colonel of the regiment, and the thing was very well 
done. Both Prince and Princess danced several -times. 
The supper was very pretty. When it was ready every- 
body made a line all down the ballroom, and then 
the procession, with the Princess first and the Duke of 
Portland, then the Prince with me and various other 
Princes and swells, walked down the long room, the band 
playing the "British Grenadiers," and all the people bow- 
ing and curtseying. The Royal party supped on a plat- 
form and there were 1,000 people seated at supper at 
long narrow tables, everyone looking hard at the Prin- 
cess. 

Thursday, 12th. 

I never got any further and never have had time since, 
but I will begin this morning and finish my letter this 
evening. To-day is the first Drawing-room of the sea- 
son. As Countess Karolyi doesn't come, I am the 
Doyenne, and shall have to go in first, led by Sir Fran- 
cis Seymour. Mr. Lowell has asked me to take his 
presentation. However there is only Bessie V. R., 



i88 5 ] FRENCH ARTISTS 203 

Eugene's daughter, who is pleased at being presented 
by an Ambassadress. She will also see the Diplomatic 
Corps pass. I wish Jess were here, and so does 
Adelaide, who would be so delighted to dress her. 
Last night we had a very pleasant dinner at Lady 
Jersey's. Such a handsome woman was there, the young 
Duchess of Montrose. After dinner we went to the 
Speaker's reception, which was crowded, but rather 
amusing — such funny looking people and such dresses. 
I am overrun with artists. There are several French 
artists of all kinds here, and I must make them play 
once, so I have decided upon next Friday afternoon. It 
is my day and I shall invite all the musical and entertain- 
ing people I know, as of course they all wish to be 
heard. One girl really does play very well on the violin, 
and wants me very much to sing with her accompani- 
ment, which, naturally, I shan't, and another sings, not 
very remarkably, and a third, Marie Dubois, plays really 
beautifully — premier prix du Conservatoire. I will write 
you all about it when it is over. 

7 o'clock. 
Well, we have performed the Drawing-room — it was 
short, not more than an hour and a quarter, and I must 
say very few pretty faces or pretty dresses — Bessie V. R. 
looked very well, very distinguished. She followed di- 
rectly behind me — even in front of my secretaries' wives, 
and was the third lady in the room. There were quite a 
lot of Princes — Prince and Princess of Wales, Prince 
Waldemar of Denmark, Duke and Duchess of Edin- 
burgh, Duke of Cambridge and Prince Edward of Saxe- 
Weimar. Mme. de Bylandt, wife of the Dutch Minister, 
presented Mme. and Mile, de Brenen, Dutch ladies, both 
mother and daughter handsome and well dressed. The 



204 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

Princess looked charming in white and gold. The Duch- 
ess of Edinburgh had a dark green velvet train. We 
all came back here to tea and had various visitors to 
look at the dresses, including Baron Pawel-Rammingen, 
husband of Princess Frederica of Hanover, who also 
happened in and was much amused at finding such an 
etalage of trains — happily we have nothing this evening. 
Next week is the marriage of the Duke of B.'s daughter. 
It is to be at Westminster Abbey and very swell, the 
Prince and Princess going. There is to be a party 
Tuesday night, where all her jewels are to be shown, 
which they say are splendid. I am sorry not to go, but 
we have a dinner and a dance ourselves. I shall go to 
the wedding. She is small and quiet — rather shy. I 
don't know whether one of those mysterious changes 
will take place which one sees sometimes after marriage 
— coronets and trains do a great deal. I must finish, 
as I have of course several notes to answer. I hate it 
so, when people wait for answers. I suppose I shall 
have a fine account of the Inauguration from Gertrude. 
I hope the girls have enjoyed it. 

To G. K. S. 

London, 
March 12, 1885. 

I went yesterday to say good-bye to Lady R. They 
are leaving for Bombay, where he is named Governor. 
It is for five years; I think I should be unwilling to go 
so far, and to such a trying climate, but she seems plucky 
enough and will certainly do well. 

Francis and I were driving up Constitution Hill yes- 
terday just as the Queen arrived, so we had a very good 
look at her. She was in an open carriage with Princess 
Beatrice and her fiance, Prince Henry of Battenberg 



i88 5 ] AT WESTMINSTER ABBEY 205 

(such a handsome man), and the usual escort of Life- 
Guards. She recognised me perfectly, and always has a 
gracious bow and smile. Just before she came one of our 
English friends who was walking about with her daugh- 
ter (a young girl who had never seen the Queen) sud- 
denly spied me (as mine was the only carriage that was 
allowed to stand) and asked me if she and her daughter 
could get into the carriage with me, as that would be such 
a good chance for the girl to see the Queen. I of course 
was delighted to have them, as Francis and I were alone, 
and the girl saw perfectly. So many English people, ex- 
cept those who go to Drawing-Rooms, never get a chance 
to see the Queen at all. 

Sunday, March. 

We have been to Church this morning at Westminster 
Abbey, such a magnificent service. The Dean always 
gives us seats, and I love the music, the boys sing very 
well, and the hymns are grand as they echo through the 
fine old church. In every direction there is some his- 
torical souvenir; tombs, old glass windows, tattered flags, 
crests, — all England's past. We walked home through 
Green Park, and it is curious to notice the absence 
of equipages — so many English people don't take out 
their carriages on Sunday (to rest the horses and let the 
servants go to church), again such a striking contrast to 
Paris, where every kind of conveyance is out on that day. 
I think of the little grocer near H. who goes out every 
Sunday as soon as it is at all warm with his whole family 
and 2 or 3 dogs in his little covered cart. All the 
"Societe" is out also; at the big concerts, reviews, races, 
etc. Sunday is the great Parisian holiday. 

This morning before starting I had my head out of 
the window on the other side of the Embassy, looking 



206 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

at the Guards pass on their way to the little church just 
behind the Embassy in Knightsbridge. They came 
down from the barracks at a swinging pace, a fine body 
of men, the sergeants with their canes, and several offi- 
cers. The band, a very good one, plays all the time (to- 
day they marched to the French tune "Le Pere Victoire") , 
and takes up its station, always playing, at the door of 
the church. They play until the last man files in, then 
suddenly the music stops, and the band goes in also. It 
always interests the French servants immensely, the two 
maids had their heads out too, and said to me just now, 
"C'est bien beau, Madame, quel dommage que cela ne 
se passe pas comme cela chez nous." The service in the 
Guards' Chapel at Wellington Barracks is also a fine one, 
the chapel filled with soldiers, a mass of red (as one sees 
only their tunics), and the singing very good — a little 
loud sometimes when it is a favourite hymn and all 
join in. 

To H. L. K. 

Albert Gate, 
Marcb 13, 1885. 

We have had our second "Drawing-room" to-day, and 
were asked to come in "demi-deuil," as it was the first 
time the Queen had received any of the Corps Diplo- 
matique since the Duke of Albany's death. There are 
always more people when the Queen holds the Drawing- 
room, as it is the only chance so many of her subjects 
ever have of seeing her. She rarely comes to London, 
and stays only two or three days. She was dressed with 
her little closed diamond crown, the blue ribbon of the 
Garter, and many diamonds. I thought the black be- 
coming generally. 



!88 5 ] THE UNIVERSITY BOAT RACE 207 

March 16th. 

At our dinner to-day at Lord A.'s Mr. Campbell was 
next to me, and told me he was most anxious to be re- 
called to the French Ambassador, that he had been his 
fag at Rugby, and had never seen him since. Of course 
they made acquaintance again after dinner, and plunged 
into all sorts of recollections of their school days. The 
other men who were smoking with them said the talk was 
most interesting and curious, as their careers in after life 
had been so very different. At every turn W. finds 
someone who had been at Rugby or Cambridge with 
him. 

To H. L. K. 

April 9, 1885. 

This morning it is pouring, so I gave up the Oxford 
and Cambridge boat race. W. and Count de Florian 
started all with light blue rosettes (Cambridge). W. 
was on the umpire boat. Cambridge won easily, which 
was of course a great pleasure to him (having rowed 
himself so many years ago in the Cambridge crew), 
in the evening. He said he was so much cheered when 
he got up to speak — young men standing on chairs to 
see him — that he had to wait some time before he could 
begin. He is certainly the only foreign Ambassador that 
ever rowed in the Cambridge eight. He was quite pleased 
when he came home, so many old memories of happy 
boyish days had been brought back. We talked for 
some time after dinner, and recalled all sorts of Cam- 
bridge experiences — once when the Queen came with 
Prince Albert to Cambridge the students were all as- 
sembled in the court-yard as her carriage drove up. It 
had been raining, and the Queen hesitated a moment in 
getting out, as the ground was wet and there was mud. 



208 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Apr. 

Instantly W. had his gown off and on the ground, the 
others followed his example, and she walked over a carpet 
of silk gowns the few steps she had to make. W. said he 
had never forgotten her smile as she bowed and thanked 
them. 

To J. K. 

The Garth, Bicester, 
Sunday, April 19, 1885. 

I believe this is my week, Dear Jan. I am staying 
here at a queer little hunting box in Oxfordshire with 
Hilda Deichmann (nee de Bunsen). It is literally an 
enormous stable, with a cottage attached, but they have 
added a story and wings and it is the most wonder- 
ful-looking place, very low — but comfortable. W. went 
off to Paris Sunday, and I came down here last Saturday 
with Mimi. He is very fond of the children — a big boy 
of 1 1 and a girl of 7 — and has enjoyed himself thor- 
oughly. We feel awfully cut up at Pontecoulant's death. 
He has been such a good friend to us, and so completely 
associated with all our political life. It seems incred- 
ible that a strong man should be carried off like that in 
4 days from a cold. Henrietta will miss him awfully, as, 
now that we are so much away he was always there and 
attending to anything she wanted done. 

Of course everyone is talking and speculating about 
the Anglo-Russian question. W. thinks the English 
must fight, and that they will. I think this government, 
with Gladstone at its head, will never make up their minds 
to fight seriously or in time, judging from the way the 
Soudan campaign has been conducted. 

We have been driving all over the country, which is 
charming, flat, but all grass (Oxfordshire is a regular 
hunting country), and since three days the weather has 



i88 5 j BLENHEIM 209 

been enchanting. Yesterday we made a lovely ex- 
cursion to Blenheim on Deichmann's coach. We picked 
up 2 neighbours, nice, pretty English girls, and had a 
beautiful drive over the downs. Mimi had never been on 
a coach before, and was in a wild state of delight when 
all four horses galloped up the hills, and they blew the 
horns at all the railway stations and passing thro' the 
villages. I had forgotten how magnificent Blenheim was. 
The house is rather dismantled, as the present Duke has 
sold all the books and some of the handsomest pictures, 
but there are plenty left — Van Dycks, Rubens, etc., and 
the rooms and halls are splendid. There were lots of 
portraits of the Dukes and Duchesses, from the great 
Duke down, some curiously like the present Church- 
ills, particularly the women. When we had finished 
sauntering through the house, we drove about the park 
looking for a shady place to lunch, and then established 
ourselves; the horses were taken out, the lunch basket 
opened, and we had a very good lunch on the top of the 
coach. We drove back through Woodstock and 
stopped for tea at Dashwood Park, one of the great 
places of the country. They gave us tea, with every 
variety of toast, cake, and bread that can be imagined, 
in a beautiful room as large as a church, opening 
on a stone terrace, and the most lovely (English) 
views of grass meadows and trees, stretching miles 
away. There were quantities of family portraits there, 
too, but we hadn't time to see them. We got home at 
7 o'clock, rather exhausted, but having had a lovely 
day. 

I began my letter this morning before breakfast and 
will finish it now. The children are off to the woods with 
the German tutor after primroses, but it is too warm 
for us — so we shall take a walk after tea. I am very 



210 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

fond of Hilda Deichmann. She is very clever — knows 
a great many things — draws well, paints well, is a good 
musician, and is womanly and practical. We fraternised 
from the first moment. We are going back to London 
to-morrow afternoon. Mimi's school begins on Tues- 
day, and I think he has had a good outing for the pres- 
ent. I haven't an idea what we shall do this winter. 
Perhaps when W. comes back he will have some plans. 
With this new Ministry, it is difficult to make any. I 
am so afraid of their proposing some beastly measure, 
like the exile of the Orleans Princes, or something of 
that kind to be popular before the election. The Wales' 
visit to Ireland seems to be progressing most delightfully 
and much more quietly than people thought. He has 
such wonderful charm of manner. I should think per- 
sonal contact with him would always work wonders. I 
must stop now or my letter will not go this afternoon. 



To G. K. S. 

May 6, 1885. 

We had yesterday a typical London Season evening. 
We dined at Lady Vivian's — a large, handsome dinner, 
everybody rather in a hurry to get away, as there were 
two big parties; Lady Derby's in St. James's Place, and 
Lady Salisbury's in Arlington Street. We drove down 
Piccadilly with much difficulty, getting along very slowly 
in spite of our "white card," but finally did arrive at Lady 
Derby's. The staircase was a mass of people struggling 
to get in, an orchestra playing, and about 1,200 people 
in rooms that would hold comfortably about half. Of 
course on such occasions one doesn't talk. We spoke 
to our host and hostess, were carried on by the crowd, 



i88 5 ) TWO RECEPTIONS 211 

made the tour of the rooms and got down again with 
much waiting and jostling, as there were two currents 
coming and going. However, we did finally get our car- 
riage, and then with many stops and very slowly, got to 
Arlington Street, where apparently the same people were 
struggling on the staircase, the same orchestra playing, 
and just as big a crowd (I should think the whole Con- 
servative party), for though the house is larger they had 
invited more people, so the result was practically the 
same. We did exactly the same thing, exchanged a few 
words with Lady Salisbury, made the tour, and came 
home. We were two hours performing these two re- 
ceptions, but I suppose it was right to do it once. How- 
ever, the English certainly enjoy the sight, and don't 
mind the waiting. Lady Jersey, who is a grandmother, 
told me this afternoon she had bored herself to death 
last night. "Why did you go?" I said, "you must know 
these big political parties by heart." "Oh, I like the 
parties," she said; "only I didn't get to either," and then 
she explained her evening. She started alone in her car- 
riage at 10 o'clock for Lady Derby's, was kept waiting 
an interminable time in Piccadilly, and when she finally 
did reach Lady Derby's door, a friendly link-man ad- 
vised her not to go in as everybody was coming away, 
and she would never get up the stairs, so she turned back 
and proceeded to Arlington Street. She had the same 
crowd, the same long wait, and when she arrived at Lady 
Salisbury's the party was over, and no one could possibly 
get in. It was then midnight, and she drove home, hav- 
ing passed her whole evening since 10 o'clock alone in 
her brougham in Piccadilly. 



2i2 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 



May 9, 1885. 
This afternoon we have had a conference "sur Racine" 
in the big drawing-room. A good many people came 
and apparently listened, and I hope it may do the young 
lady good. Mile, de B. wishes to get up classes of 
French literature for ladies, but I hardly think it will 
succeed here in the season; on a bright day no one will 
shut herself up in a smallish room to hear about Racine, 
Moliere, etc. I was amused by one of our colleagues 
whom I invited. He refused promptly, "he really 
couldn't do that even for me. He hadn't thought about 
Racine since he left school, and hadn't felt it a blank in 
his life." Mile, de B. did it very well; she sat on a little 
platform with a table in front of her, and all the swells in 
red and gilt arm-chairs facing her, and looking at her 
hard. She was a little nervous at first, but soon got over 
that, and her language was good and well chosen, she 
knew her subject perfectly, and spoke in a pretty clear 
voice. This was the invitation : — 

MADAME WADDINGTON 

SERA CHEZ ELLE 

le Samedi, 9 Mai, 2 a 4 heures, 

Mile, de Bury lira une etude de critique litteraire sur Racine, son 
milieu, et sa tragedie de Be're'nice. 

Do you think it would have tempted you? I am afraid 
Schuyler wouldn't have come. 



1885] IN THE ROW 213 

To H. L. K. 

London, 
May, 1885. 

We are having most beautiful weather, Dear, and our 
morning rides are delightful. If only the Park was a 
little bigger. We always get a good gallop on the other 
side by the Marble Arch, but it is small, and one goes 
round and round. When I ride with W. we generally 
make three or four turns as fast as we can go, he hates 
to dawdle. When I ride with the military attache, or 
some other friends, we do the Row, and amble up and 
down, talking to the people walking as well as the riders. 
The children always delight in scampering along on their 
ponies, and they certainly begin young. A friend of 
ours, who has a nice sturdy boy of about six, was won- 
dering whether he should begin with his child on a nar- 
row pony, thinking he was still rather young, so he con- 
sulted Lady P., a beautiful rider, and an authority on all 
matters connected with riding. "You mustn't begin too 
early with boys," she said ; "one must be careful ; I never 
put any boy of mine on a horse until he was two years 
old." 

May 13th. 
To-day we have had a very long Drawing-room held 
by the Queen, which of course attracts everyone. She 
rarely stays more than an hour, just long enough to re- 
ceive the Corps Diplomatique and the people who have 
the entree. The Queen looked very well, merely shook 
hands with me, but talked some little time to W., said 
she had enjoyed her stay at Aix-les-Bains so much, and 
that everything had been done to make her comfortable. 
I watched her while she was talking and I never saw 



2i4 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

a smile make such a difference in a face. Hers is quite 
beautiful and lights up her whole face. It was tiring 
to-day — unending. Lord R. told me there were 400 
presentations, and at the end said about 1,200 people 
had passed. They say the Queen is sometimes made sick 
by the quantity of people curtseying before her — the 
constant movement of the people bending down and ris- 
ing has the same effect upon her as the waters of the 
sea. I can understand it. 

The long Drawing-room to-day was a god-send to 
Lady A., — one of Lord C.'s daughters. She is a "de- 
butante," had a very pretty new dress, and was much ex- 
cited over her presentation, had started very early with 
her mother so as to see the Queen (who stays only a 
short hour). The early start and the long waiting in the 
row of carriages and also the ante-room, exhausted her 
absolutely. She was sick and faint; they did all they 
could, brought her brandy, put her near an open win- 
dow — nothing did any good. She had to retire from the 
room, go downstairs, have her dress cut open (there was 
a knot in the lace and they couldn't unlace her bodice), 
and remained extended on a sofa in the hall — train, veil, 
feathers, all in a heap. After a rest of two hours, and a 
cup of tea (procured with great difficulty, as there is no 
buffet on these occasions) she felt better, and her mother 
hearing from a friend upstairs, who was "de service," that 
the Drawing-room was still going on, was most anxious 
that the girl should pass, so they arranged her veil, hair, 
and feathers as well as they could, tied the bodice of her 
dress, and filled in the intervals with some bits of tulle 
cut from her veil. She passed, and I don't believe any- 
one noticed anything wrong with her dress, and she was 
so thankful not to have to go through that long waiting 
again. It is a most fatiguing day for those who haven't 



i88 S ] HATFIELD HOUSE 215 

the entree, as they must sit so long in their carriages in 
the file. 

Hatfield, May 30th. 

We came down yesterday to this most beautiful old 
place. A large Elizabethan castle, standing rather high, 
with courts and terraces in every direction. We found 
Lady Salisbury at her tea-table on the terrace with a 
lovely view of park and woods on all sides. Various 
members of the family and house-party sauntered up, 
some of the young ladies in their habits, having been 
riding; and some guests having walked up from the 
station, which is quite near at the end of the Park. 
After an hour's talk Lady Salisbury took me to my 
room (miles away through the long hall and up a 
great staircase), and told me dinner was "easy 8." 
The room is large, all panelled in oak which has be- 
come almost black with age, an enormous bed (they 
have always had their sheets made especially for these 
beds for more than 200 years, in Germany I think, as no 
ordinary sheets could cover more than half). The beds 
are very long and almost square. They would easily 
hold Brigham Young and all his wives. Do you remem- 
ber the picture in Mark Twain? Mine was so high I had 
to take a footstool to clamber into it. W.'s room, next, 
about the same. We went downstairs at 8.10 and cer- 
tainly didn't dine until after 8|. We were about 30 in 
the great dining-room, a splendid hall with portraits of 
Queen Elizabeth (one in fancy dress, most curious with 
bright red hair), Henry VIII, Mary Queen of Scots, etc. 
We played cards in the evening and broke up rather 
early. This morning Lady Salisbury showed me the 
house — most interesting, full of treasures and memories, 
a great library with all sorts of letters from the time of 
Elizabeth, and in the drawing-room a vitrine filled with 



216 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

relics of the "Virgin Queen." It was curious to see her 
gloves, shoes, hat. I think Lady Salisbury was some- 
what surprised at my interest in these last things, but 
I told her she must make allowances for the American, 
who was not accustomed to old family traditions and 
souvenirs of that kind. When I think of our Revolution, 
then it seems ages ago to me. We enjoyed our visit 
extremely, they are all so nice and simple. 

We got back to London this morning and of course 
dined out somewhere. I was amused by one of the ladies 
saying to me after dinner, "Did you really enjoy your 
visit to Hatfield? Aren't they all dreadfully clever?" I 
don't think I should have applied the same adverb, but 
clever they certainly are. Lord Salisbury has such a 
fine, thoughtful face. 

To H. L. K. 

June, 1885. 
We went to Ascot this morning, a beautiful day, and 
the lawn like a flower garden with all the women in their 
light dresses dotted about. We lunched with the Prince 
and Princess of Wales. The Maharajah of Johore was 
there, and had brought down his own cook, attired in 
yellow satin with a large flat hat on his head. He made 
a sort of curry for his master, which everybody tasted — 
except me — I don't like culinary experiments, and I 
think the yellow satin garments didn't inspire me with 
confidence. I told Juteau when he came up for orders 
just now how far below the mark he was as to costume. 

June 29th. 
I went this afternoon with Francis to Lord Aberdeen's, 
where they had a hay-making party. They have a pretty 
little cottage, or rather a small farm about an hour's 



i88 5 ] A COURT CONCERT 217 

drive from London. There were plenty of people, and 
all sorts of amusements for the children; Punch and 
Judy, lawn-tennis, and two tea-tables on the lawn. 
After tea they all rushed down a steep hill to a field 
where there were quantities of little heaps of hay, and 
harmless wooden pitchforks. They had a fine time roll- 
ing and tumbling about in the hay and making hay- 
stacks. Then a cow appeared on the scene, dressed 
with flowers and ribbons, and the maids made syllabub 
on the spot, which the children enjoyed immensely. 

June 30th, 1885. 

We dined at Lady Molesworth's with the Due d'Au- 
male, who is always charming, and makes everything 
easy, as there are always bothering little questions of 
official etiquette with non-reigning Princes. He is a 
fine type of the soldier-prince. It seems hard that a man 
of his intelligence and education shouldn't play a great 
part in his own country. 

Albert Gate, 
July, 1885. 

We had the Court concert this evening. The Due 
d'Aumale was there, looking so well and so royal. He 
is always charming to us, and we were very proud of our 
French Prince. H. came with us and enjoyed herself 
extremely. The entrance of the Court amused her very 
much, the two tall Chamberlains with their wands walk- 
ing backwards. She says she never saw anything so 
pretty as the curtsey the Princess of Wales made to the 
assembled company as soon as she got into the room. 
What always appeals in some sort of way to our irrever- 
ent American minds is the singing of the "God Save the 
Queen," all the company, including Prince and Princess, 
rising and standing. 



218 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

To J. K. 

Chevening, Sevenoaks, 
Sunday, July 27, 1885. 

I will begin my letter here to-day, Dear Jan, from the 
Stanhopes' place, where we came last evening to spend 
Sunday. It was awfully hot yesterday. I almost died 
on the way from London down, fortunately it was only 
an hour. We are a party of 14 — Lord and Lady John 
Manners, Lord Derby and his step-daughter, Lady Mar- 
garet Cecil, Mr. and Mrs. Edward Stanhope, Mr. and 
Mrs. Jeune, Lord Boston, a nice young fellow, and a Mr. 
Praed, a riding man, who has travelled everywhere. We 
had tea on the terrace overlooking a lovely garden and 
lake, and dined at 8. After dinner we sat on the terrace, 
and it was charming, a beautiful full moon, and not a 
breath of air. Friday we had the closing festivity of the 
season at Marlborough House. A beautiful ball it 
was, about 600 people, all the creme de la societe 
and beautiful dresses and jewels. I wore my pink 
and green Moscow dress (my Russian garments have 
done me good service this year), and it was much 
admired. All the Battenberg family were there in 
great force, and I renewed acquaintance with the 
Prince of Bulgaria, whom I used to know. They 
had covered in a great part of the garden, and the room 
was beautifully arranged with the Prince's Indian carpets 
and arms. The supper room, also built out in the gar- 
den, was so pretty — a collection of small round tables for 
8 or 10 persons, with flowers and handsome silver. 
Prince Albert Victor took me in, and I had a young 
Battenberg next. Neither Phelps nor Harry White was 
there, on account of Grant's death, which I thought 
very nice of them. I danced once or twice after supper, 



i88 5 ] A COUNTRY HOUSE PARTY 219 

and we came away at 2. I hear they kept it up until 5, 
having begun at 11. There is a reception at Lady Salis- 
bury's on Tuesday, which will be really the end of all 
things, and purely political, as all the swells go off to 
Goodwood Monday. 

11.30. 
We have just come upstairs after a very hot day. I 
didn't go to church, as I knew I could not stand the heat, 
and talked a little and read very happily in the big draw- 
ing-room till luncheon. Lady Stanhope took me over 
the house, which is not very large, but interesting. There 
is a charming library full of books and manuscripts and 
letters, some from Lord Chesterfield to his son, written 
in French, and beginning "Mon cher ami, comment vont 
les graces et les manieres." After luncheon, we sat 
out under the lime trees, and after tea I made a little 
tournee with Lord Stanhope and prowled about the park, 
and went also to the church, where there are several 
interesting monuments. This evening we have been 
sitting again on the terrace, quite delicious. I in my 
white dress, with nothing on my shoulders. 

London, 
Tuesday, 28th. 

We got back yesterday at 2 o'clock and the weather 
has changed to-day. It was very hot all day yesterday. 
I spent the afternoon on my sofa until 6.30, when 
we went for a ride and met the few last people who 
are still here. Last night we discussed our summer 
plans, and I shall go over to France on Saturday 
with Francis, stay three or four days in Paris, and 
then go down to St. L6ger. It is curious how London 
is suddenly empty. There were not 5 carriages in the 
park yesterday. This morning I have been careering 



220 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Dec. 

about the stable-yard trying a new habit. They are so 
difficult to make in these days, so tight that the least 
change of saddle makes them go every way but the right 
one. I don't know if I wrote after the Harwoods 
lunched with us. W. was much pleased with them and 
found them a most attractive family. The girls are 
charming, so pretty and simple. I must stop, as Holmes 
(the English butler) is waiting for me to tell him all 
sorts of final arrangements before we start. 



To G. K. S. 

Albert Gate, 
November 9, 1885. 

The young King of Spain is dead. The Ambassador, 
M. de Casa La Iglesia, was to have dined with us. He 
sent a note at 5.30 saying that he must give up the 
pleasure of dining with us for a "bien penible raison," but 
without saying what it was — so one of the secretaries 
went off "aux informations" and came back with the 
news that the King was dead. Poor young fellow, his 
reign was short. 

December 5 th. 
We had a service at the Spanish chapel in Manchester 
Square for the King of Spain. All the Diplomats and 
official world there. It was very long — all the ladies 
were in black — Comtesse Karolyi (Austrian Ambassa- 
dress) and Comtesse de Bylandt (wife of the Dutch Min- 
ister) in crepe, long veils. They told me I was not at 
all correct, that a crepe veil was "de rigueur" for 
crowned heads. I thought I was all right in black 
velvet, a tulle veil, and black gloves (in fact was rather 
pleased with my get-up), but the ladies were very stern. 



i88 5 ] A LONDON FOG 221 

London, 
December 15, 1885. 

I wish you were here this morning, Dear, as the Em- 
bassy is a curiosity — might just as well be in Kam- 
tchatka as far as the outside world is concerned — for 
nothing exists beyond the walls of the house. When 
they drew back my curtains this morning I couldn't really 
think for a moment where I was. Adelaide had a lighted 
candle in her hand (it was 8.30 o'clock in the morning) 
and I thought my window panes had been painted a dirty 
yellow in the night. However it was only a yellow Lon- 
don fog; I could literally see nothing when I went to the 
window. It has lightened now a little, but we have had 
lamps for breakfast, and I am writing with my candles ! 
The big shops opposite are all lighted, and one sees little 
glimmers of light through the fog. I can't see across 
the street. The fog gets into everything — was quite 
thick and perceptible in the hall when we went down to 
breakfast. The coachman has been in and said he 
couldn't take out his horses, not even with a link-boy 
running alongside, so let us hope it will brighten up a 
little in the course of the afternoon. 

December 16th. 

The fog did lift about 4; but the day was trying and 
the traces most evident the next day, as everything in 
the house was filthy — all the silver candlesticks and little 
silver ornaments that are on the tables; the white cur- 
tains — in fact everything one touched. I should think 
laundresses would make their fortune in London. My 
maid came to my room about 3 o'clock, just as I was 
going out, with her apron really black with smuts. I 
said, "What in the world have you been doing, cleaning 
the chimneys ?" "Non, Madame, je n'ai fait que travailler 
chez Madame et dans la lingerie; j'ai voulu montrer mon 



222 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Dec. 

tablier a Madame, c'est le troisieme que je mets depuis 
ce matin ... !" 

December 17, 1885. 

Yesterday I made an excursion to the city with Hilda 
Deichmann and her husband to buy things for our Christ- 
mas trees. It was most amusing ransacking in all the 
big wholesale houses, and reminded me of my childish 
days and similar expeditions to Maiden Lane. There 
is so much always in England that recalls early days. I 
think it is not only the language, but the education 
and way of living are the same. We have read the same 
books and sung the same hymns, and understand things 
in the same way. Our shopping was most successful. 
All the prettiest things come from the German shops. 
The ginger-bread animals were wonderful, — some horses 
and dogs with gilt tails and ears most effective. The 
decorations were really very pretty — the stars and angels 
quite charming. When we had finished our shopping 
Deichmann took us to Pym's, a celebrated oyster cellar, 
to lunch. A funny little place well known to all City 
people. We had a capital lunch — all oysters. 

This afternoon we have been playing, 8 hands, two 
pianos, which was interesting. Two of our colleagues, 
Princess Ghika, Roumanian Legation, and Countess de 
Bylandt, Dutch, are excellent musicians. They lead, and 
Hilda and I follow as well as we can. I am the least 
good, but I manage to get along, and of course when- 
ever I know the music my ear helps me. We have two 
fine Erard grand pianos in the drawing-room, which is 
large, and fairly light for London. I was much tempted 
by a beautiful Steinway piano, but thought it right at the 
French Embassy to have Erards, which are of course fine 
instruments. I fancy Steinway is more brilliant, but I 



i88 5 ] A FAREWELL DINNER 223 

think we make noise enough, particularly when we are 
playing Wagner — the Kaiser March for instance. 

December 23d. 
It was not very cold this morning, so I tried the 
new horse, and he went very well. I have had a thick 
hunting habit made, and was quite comfortable, except 
the hands, which were cold at starting. I fussed all day 
over the Christmas tree which we are to have on the 
26th, and this evening we had a small farewell dinner for 
Nigra, the Italian Ambassador, who is going away to 
Vienna. I am very sorry, as he is a good colleague and an 
easy and charming talker. He sat a long time with me 
the other day talking over his Paris experiences and the 
brilliant days of the Empire — Tuileries, Compiegne, etc. 
It was most interesting and new to me, as I only know 
Paris since the war (1870) and have never seen either 
Emperor or Empress. I suppose I never shall see her, 
as she never comes to London, and lives a very secluded 
life at Farnborough with a small household, and some 
Paris friends who come sometimes, not very often, to 
see her. What a tragic "fin de vie" hers is, having had 
everything and lost everything. We had also the Rus- 
sian and Spanish Ambassadors — Staal charming, clever, 
easy, simple — "simpatico," the only word I know in any 
language which expresses exactly that combination of 
qualities. Casa La Iglesia, the Spaniard, is a tall, hand- 
some, attractive-looking man. He made havoc in the 
various posts he has occupied, and when we want to 
tease him we ask him about his departure from Berlin, 
and all the "femmes affblees" who were at the station 
to see the last of him. Henrietta and Anne have arrived 
for Christmas, laden of course with presents and sou- 
venirs for everybody, and Francis is quite happy with 
his aunts. 



224 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Dec. 



To G. K. S. 

Albert Gate, London, 
December 24, 1885. 

The sisters and I have been shopping all day getting 
the last things for the tree, which is to be on the 26th. 
The streets are most animated, full of people, all carry- 
ing parcels, and all with smiling faces. The big toy-shops 
and confectioners crowded. "Buzzard," the great shop 
in Oxford Street, most amusing; hundreds of Christmas 
cakes of all sizes. There are plum cakes frosted with 
sugar icing, the date generally in red letters and a sprig 
of ivy or evergreen stuck in at the top. We had ordered 
a large one, and they were much pleased to do it for the 
French Embassy, and wanted to make the letters in "tri- 
color," red, white, and blue. We wound up at the 
Army and Navy Stores, and really had some difficulty 
in getting in. They had quantities of Christmas trees 
already decorated, which were being sold as fast as they 
were brought in. 

There were splendid turkeys, enormous ; and curiously 
enough they told us many of them came from France, 
from a well-known turkey farm in the Loiret. I must 
ask the Segurs, who live in that part of the country, if 
they know the place. There were quantities of plum- 
puddings of all sizes and prices, and it must be a very 
poor household that doesn't have its plum-pudding to- 
morrow. We were glad to get back to tea and hot but- 
tered toast — a thoroughly English institution. I would 
like some of my French servants to learn how to make it, 
but I don't suppose they will. In fact I don't know 
exactly who makes it here — I am quite sure neither 
Juteau nor his "gargon de cuisine" would condescend to 



i885] CHRISTMAS AT THE EMBASSY 225 

do anything so simple. I suppose it isn't the "odd man" 
who seems to do all the things that no one else will, but 
I sha'n't inquire as long as it appears. 

We had a quiet evening — talked a little politics while 
W. was smoking. Henrietta always sees a great many 
people of all kinds, and tells him various little things 
that don't come to him in his official despatches. The 
house is comfortable enough, though there is no calor- 
ifere, and it is a corner house. There are enormous 
coal fires everywhere, except in my bedroom and dress- 
ing-room, where I always burn wood — and such wood — 
little square pieces like children's blocks. 

Christmas Day. 
It was dark and foggy this morning, we could hardly 
see the trees opposite, and the lamps are lighted in the 
house and the streets. Francis was enchanted with his 
presents. I think the billiard-table from Paris and the 
big boat ("aussi grand que Monsieur Toutain" — one of 
our Secretaries) were what pleased him most. There is a 
sort of sailing match every Sunday morning on the Ser- 
pentine. Some really beautiful boats (models) full- 
rigged, and it is a pretty sight to see them all start a 
miniature yacht race across the river. Francis always 
goes with Clarisse, and Yves, his own little Breton foot- 
man, carries his boat, which is much bigger than he is, 
also Boniface, a wise little fox-terrier who knows all 
about it, and gallops around the top of the lake to meet 
his master's boat on the other side. They have also one 
of the Park keepers and a gigantic policeman, who is al- 
ways on duty at Albert Gate, to look after them. Not a 
useless precaution, as the boat often gets entangled in 
the reeds, and has been known to go to the bottom of 
the lake, and Boniface always gets lost and is brought 



226 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Dec. 

back by a policeman or a soldier, or a friend — Hilda 
Deichmann brought him back one day. 

We had a cheerful Christmas dinner — all our person- 
nel — M. Blanchard de Forges, Consul General, and Vil- 
liers, the correspondent of the "Debats" in London. We 
did a little music after dinner. I tried for some Christ- 
mas carols "We Three Kings of Orient Are" (do you 
remember that at Oyster Bay? how long ago it seems), 
but the English-speaking element was not strong 
enough. We danced a little, winding up with a sort of 
Scotch reel — Henrietta, Waru (our Military Attache), 
and Petiteville being the chief performers. 

December 26th. 

We are all rather exhausted after the Christmas tree ; 
however, the children were quite pleased, and the tree 
really very pretty. A gigantic pine, reaching to the top 
of the ceiling in the ballroom, a star on the top and very 
well lighted. We had 34 children of all ages and nation- 
alities, from Nadine Karolyi, aged 18, daughter of 
Count Karolyi, Austrian Ambassador and Doyen of the 
Corps Diplomatique, to Florence Williams' baby girl 
of 16 months. The little ones were sweet, speechless at 
first, with round eyes fixed on the tree, and then little 
fat arms stretched out for something. The children's 
tea-table looked pretty, arranged with coloured candles 
and holly, and an enormous Christmas cake in the middle 
with a wreath of holly around it. Nadine Karolyi cut 
the first slice of cake, as daughter of the Doyen she sat on 
Francis's right hand, and Thekla Staal, daughter of the 
Russian Ambassador, on his left. W. was much amused 
at the correct placing of the young ladies. We start to- 
morrow for Knowsley and Luton Hoo, and the packing 



i88 5 ] RECALLING ROME 227 

is quite an affair. I take 10 dresses, besides jackets, hats, 
etc. I must have short costumes to follow the battues 
for fine and bad weather— a swell day dress, as we are to 
lunch at Croxteth, Lord Sefton's place near Knowsley; 
and two ball dresses, as there is to be a county ball for 
all the neighbourhood at Luton, New Year's night, and 
a small dance with a cotillon (which is unusual in Eng- 
land) the next night. Adelaide is rather fatigued, as be- 
sides my trunk she has to finish off her toilettes, and she 
has just come in to ask me if she shall take the regulation 
black silk, or a blue silk, which is more dressy ; as they 
tell her the ladies in the housekeeper's room are very 
dressy at Luton. I said the blue silk by all means — she 
must be up to the mark. The fog has kept up pretty 
well all day. I hope it will clear to-morrow, we are 
going straight into the coal country. Knowsley is near 
Liverpool, and I fancy it is always dark there. 

I was telling Nigra the other day about our first Ro- 
man Christmas and what an impression it made upon us. 
Such a splendid winter, always a bright blue sky, and 
roses straggling over all the old grey walls. The 
Pifferari singing to the Madonnas at all the street cor- 
ners, the midnight Mass and mysterious Pastorale in St. 
Peter's at early dawn with the tapers trembling on the 
high altar so far away; and the grand Christmas cere- 
mony at St. Peter's, with all the magnificent pomp of the 
Catholic Church in Rome. We talked on for some 
time about "Roma com' era," which of course he doesn't 
regret, and I told him of our last night in Rome, when we 
all went "en bande" to drink at the Fountain of Trevi 
(which is supposed to act as a charm and to bring people 
back to Rome). I remember quite well how tearful I 
was when we left. I didn't think then that life was worth 
living out of the shadow of St. Peter's, and think so a 



228 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE LDec. 

little still even now, though my lines have lain in very 
different places. 

We leave Francis in the sisters' charge, with the joys 
of a pantomime before him. 



To H. L. K. 

Knowsley, 
December 29, 1885. 

We arrived here late yesterday afternoon. It is a long, 
uninteresting journey (almost to Liverpool), was cold 
and foggy all the way down, and we found snow when 
we arrived in the Park — also a perfect gale of wind, the 
enormous bare, black winter trees swaying like poplars. 
The large house, with all the facade brightly lighted, 
gave us at once a cheerful welcome. Lady Derby was 
waiting for us in the long, low drawing-room with tea, 
and we went up almost immediately to dress for dinner. 
We had sent the servants by an earlier train, which was 
convenient, as they had time to unpack and have every- 
thing ready for us. We have a charming apartment — a 
very good-sized salon, with bedrooms large and comfort- 
able on each side. The salon furnished in a bright chintz, 
and good pictures, mostly family portraits, on the walls. 
There were blazing fires everywhere — these enormous 
rocks of Liverpool coal one sees here. I instantly pro- 
ceeded to demolish mine in my bedroom. Adelaide had 
already tried to make the housemaid understand that her 
lady didn't like warm rooms, but the other one pointed 
to the snow under the windows, and heaped on her pieces 
of coal. 

Dinner was at 8 punctually (which was a contrast to 
Hatfield, where we had been staying the other day. 
There dinner was easily half past eight, and after we had 



i88 5 ] AT KNOWSLEY PARK 229 

been at table some little time various friends and mem- 
bers of the family appeared, and slid quietly into their 
places at the end of the very long table). There is a 
large family party here and some other guests, including 
the two historians, Froude and Lecky, both most in- 
teresting. 

We dined in a fine hall with family portraits of all the 
Derbys, from the first one at Bosworth down to the pres- 
ent Earl, who is the 16th Earl of Derby. There was 
beautiful plate on the table — fine racing cups — as the 
Stanleys were always quite as much racing men as states- 
men. These are such curious things in England, the 
love of sport is so strong. Fancy any of our statesmen, 
Thiers, Guizot, Dufaure, etc., with racing stables. Lord 
Derby is very easy and rather inclined to chaff Americans 
a little, but I didn't mind. The evening was short after 
we adjourned to the drawing-room. Lady Derby is 
rather delicate, and is suffering just now from a bad eye. 
I sat some time in my comfortable room upstairs, but was 
glad to get to bed early after the cold journey. W. 
went off to the fumoir, and had a most interesting talk 
over Ireland and Irish questions with Mr. Lecky. This 
morning was awful; snow, sleet, and a cold rain — how- 
ever, the sportsmen were not to be deterred by any such 
mild obstacle, and started at 9.30 in a big break with four 
horses. I watched the departure from my window, and 
was very glad I was not going to make any such expedi- 
tion. I had my breakfast upstairs, and had an amusing 
explanation with the housemaid who appeared at 9.30 
with an enormous tray and breakfast enough for a family 
— tea, beefsteaks, cold partridges, eggs, rolls, toast, po- 
tatoes, buns and fruit — you never saw such a meal. She 
couldn't believe that I only wanted tea and toast and an 
egg (which was an extra, but as I knew we should only 



2 so LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE IPec. 

lunch at two, and I am accustomed to have my dejeuner 
a la fourchette at 12, I was sure I should be hungry if I 
didn't take something), and asked me most respectfully 
if I was not well, and would like something else — "a little 
soup perhaps." 

I went downstairs about 12 and found the ladies in the 
drawing-room all complaining of the cold. Lady Derby 
took me over the house — it has not the beautiful propor- 
tions of Hatfield — is long, low, and rambling, but most 
comfortable. The library is a fine room with deep win- 
dow recesses, and most comfortable with a bright fire 
burning. The librarian was there and showed us some 
of his treasures, among them an old copy of the "Roman 
de la Rose," and various old manuscripts. We went on 
to the dining-room, and Lady Derby explained the family 
portraits to me. The long, unbroken line of Earls of 
Derby is most interesting, and the change in the portraits 
for the two or three generations where the French blood 
shows itself, most curious. The wife of the Earl of 
Derby who died on the scaffold, giving his life for his 
King, was the famous Charlotte de la Tremouille, who 
defended her castle — Lathom House — so gallantly 
against Fairfax and his Roundheads. Do you remember 
one of our school-room books in America, "Heroines of 
History," where there was a description of the siege of 
Lathom House, and a picture of the Countess of Derby 
standing on the ramparts in a riding habit and hat and 
feathers and apparently loading a cannon herself and 
showing a gunner how to point it? 

The portraits are most interesting; first the regular 
Saxon type, then the French streak, pale oval faces, and 
dark eyes and hair (not unlike the Stuarts, who have 
always a foreign look); then the true British, more and 
more accentuated down to the present Earl. They have 



i88 S ] NEW YEAR'S EVE SERVICES 231 

also in one of the halls the block on which the Lord 
Derby knelt who was beheaded in 1631. 

The sportsmen arrived about tea-time, apparently 
neither cold nor tired, and having had a fine shoot. 

New Year's Day, 1886. 
We are leaving this afternoon for Luton, Mme. de 
Falbe's place, where there is a ball and cotillon to-night. 
We were to go and join the shooters yesterday, but it 
was rainy and cold, and the ladies didn't care to go out. 
The talk at luncheon was pleasant ; Froude is brilliant and 
easy. His American experiences and stories were amus- 
ing, but I told him he mustn't take the very eccentric 
ladies and gentlemen whom he had encountered as speci- 
mens of Americans. I didn't know any such people, that 
really most of us were quite quiet and ordinary, and like 
everybody else. Lord Derby rather urged him on, and 
was amused at our perfectly amicable discussion. We 
drove over to Croxteth, Lord Sefton's place, after lunch. 
The park is fine and they have capital shooting. Our 
evening was quiet, and we broke up early, as they always 
have a midnight service in the chapel on New Year's eve 
for the family and servants and any of the guests who 
like to attend. We left the drawing-room at 10.30, so 
that the servants might put out the lights, finish their 
work, etc., and also to have time to get out of our low 
dresses and jewels. A little before 12 Lady Margaret 
Cecil (Lady Derby's daughter by her first husband, Lord 
Salisbury) came for us and we went to the chapel. I 
had put on a dark cloth dress and jacket, nothing on my 
head. The chapel was full, all the servants (including 
my French maid) and household. Lady Margaret, look- 
ing like a saint in her plain black dress, and beautiful ear- 
nest expression, sat at the little organ, and everybody, 



232 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Jan. 

gardeners, keepers, coachmen, cooks, housemaids, joined 
in the singing. It was very solemn and impressive. At 
the end of the service we all went out first, and then Lady 
Margaret and her brother Lord Lionel stood at the head 
of the stairs and shook hands with all the guests, and all 
the servants, wishing all a "Happy New Year." It was 
a nice beginning of the New Year. Lord Derby hopes 
our next one will be also in England and at Knowsley, 
but everything is so uncertain, and of such short dura- 
tion in our country (especially Cabinets) that we can 
hardly look forward a year. 

Luton, 
January 3, 1886. 
Our journey yesterday from Knowsley was not very 
long, and some of the country all about Matlock, in 
Derbyshire, quite wild and lovely. Our host here is M. 
de Falbe, Danish Minister, who married Mrs. Leigh, 
owner of this charming place. We found the house 
party, mostly young, assembled in the morning-room 
with tea, the ladies all, as usual, in very dressy tea- 
gowns. I can't quite get used to that fashion, though 
I see it is very practical in the country at this season. 
Everyone goes out (in all weathers generally) from 
luncheon till tea-time, and of course one must get out of 
short skirts and muddy boots before coming down to the 
drawing-room. We went up early to dress, as Mme. de 
Falbe wanted to dine precisely at 8, on account of the 
ball afterwards. The house is large, with endless corners 
and corridors, fine drawing-rooms, library, and a large 
chapel with a fine organ. The dinner was handsome and 
very well arranged, five round tables, and quantities of 
silver, flowers, servants, etc. About 10.30 the company 
began to arrive, many county neighbours, Salisburys, 
Lyttons, Caledons, etc., bringing their house parties with 















Ms 
















|mH 






\ 


i 

( 






The Late Earl of Derby. 


Frol 


i a photograph by Franz Baum, London. 



i886] HOUSE PARTY AMUSEMENTS 233 

them. We had a very pretty cotillon. At the end the 
children's pony came in carrying two big baskets filled 
with presents. The poor little thing was very gentle, 
but was evidently afraid of slipping on the parquet floor. 

Sunday, 3d. 

To-day has been charming; first the service in the 
house chapel, very good organ music — Mme. de Falbe is 
musical and arranges everything. After breakfast they 
organized a paper hunt for the "jeunesse" in the park, 
and the older people walked about. The rendezvous 
was the dairy — a model one, quite delightful with tiles, 
and creepers running along the walls and peeping every- 
where in at the windows. One by one the young 
people assembled, flushed and exhausted with running, 
and all clamouring for tea. Comte Jacques de Pour- 
tales (one of our Secretaries), a young officer of the 
Blues, and Forbes, Mme. de Falbe's son-in-law, were 
the hares and got in some time before the hounds. 
After tea Falbe took me over to the stables, where there 
were plenty of horses, and also to the "vacherie," which 
was perfect. They have 40 small Alderney cows, all the 
same breed and colour, pretty little beasts, and so won- 
derfully clean, kept like pet dogs. 

The dinner and evening was most lively, choruses, ban- 
jos (which is a favourite instrument in English houses), 
and every kind of game, including musical chairs — M. de 
Falbe at the piano. I think everyone played except the 
Falbes and ourselves. W. and Falbe retired afterwards 
to the smoking-room, and were deep in foreign politics. 
Falbe is a perfect type of the diplomatist, tall, good-look- 
ing, and a charming, courteous manner. We ladies went 
off about 11, and an hour later we heard the most un- 
earthly noises in the house. All the men parading the 



234 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Jan. 

corridors with banjos, bells, gongs, etc., and singing (if 
singing it can be called) at the top of their voices. They 
stopped at every door to serenade. The party breaks 
up to-morrow, and we all go back to London. 



To G. K. S. 

London, 
Sunday, January 17, 1886. 

We had a musical dinner last night for Miss Griswold 
and Albanesi, and they sang and played all the evening. 
Albanesi has a charming, delicate touch, and plays with 
all the Italian brio. He told me — what surprised me — 
that he was always frightfully nervous when playing in 
public, and much preoccupied with the "composition de 
la salle" — if he saw one or two unsympathetic faces he 
had at once a disagreeable sensation ! Gertrude Gris- 
wold has always the same lovely voice with a beautiful 
clear ring in it, and sings most artistically. 

This morning we have been to church at St. Paul's. 
It is a fine service, a splendid organ, and very good well- 
trained choir — but not at all solemn. I felt as if I was 
in one of the great Catholic cathedrals in Italy. People 
were coming and going all the time, and walking about 
the church. It is so enormous that it is quite a walk from 
the big doors to the small (comparatively) enclosed space 
where the congregation assembles. 

I have been at home all the afternoon receiving — men 
only, which is a regular London custom. Adams came in 
at tea-time. He and W. always like to have a good talk 
over old times. They were at school and college to- 
gether, and Adams, when he was Charge d'Affaires at 
the British Embassy, used to have all sorts of questions 
to treat with W., who was then Ministre des Affaires 



i886] OPENING OF PARLIAMENT 235 

Etrangeres in Paris. They always began their conver- 
sations in French, and then fell into English, which of 
course they had always spoken together. 

To-night we have a small dinner for Rustem Pacha, 
and I have asked one or two people in the evening. I 
should like to be at home always on Sunday night, as we 
did in the Champs Elysees, but they tell me no English 
will come. Many of them don't go out on Sunday night, 
and don't take their horses out, and give servants a rest. 
I asked Lady A., who is very mondaine, if she would 
come to dinner to meet a few colleagues, and she said — 
"Dear Mme. Waddington, let me come another night; 
I never take out my carriage and servants on Sunday." 

Jean Gordon dimming is very much exercised over 
what she calls my French ways, and constantly tells me 
people don't do such and such things in England; but I 
always tell her the French Embassy is not England; how- 
ever, she is rather worried over me, and finds me un- 
English (which is not surprising) and unconventional, 
which is also not surprising, considering my nationality. 



To H. L. K. 

January 21, 1886. 

We have had a great function to-day, the Queen 
opened Parliament. We all went in gala, Countess D'A. 
and P. with us, the men in uniform, I in red satin, low, 
with diamonds and feathers. The road was lined with 
policemen and mounted soldiers in lieu of infantry, as 
there would have been with us. As we passed through 
the Horse-Guards the trumpeters saluted. We went at 
once into the great hall of the Lords', which was a fine 
sight. All the peers were there in their scarlet robes 
trimmed with white fur, and the women in low dresses, 



236 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Jan. 

diamonds, and feathers (feathers play a great part in all 
English toilettes). The Judges also were in full dress, 
with wigs and gowns. About 1.30 the Princes began to 
arrive, Prince of Wales, Dukes of Edinburgh, Con- 
naught, and Cambridge all also in scarlet robes with 
bands of ermine and gold, and the collar of the Garter. 
We sat close to the Throne (Countess Karolyi didn't 
come, so I was Doyenne), then Madame de Staal and the 
Duchesses Bedford, Hamilton, Sutherland, and others. 
The Prince of Wales stood next to me some time, pre- 
senting the Duke of Connaught, whom I had not seen, 
and talked pleasantly enough, explaining various things 
to me; also said he was rather shy at taking his seat on 
the raised platform until the last moment. He had an 
arm-chair on the right of the Throne. I asked him for 
whom the other arm-chair was and he said it was his 
father's, had never been used since his death, and showed 
me the Saxon arms on it. The three brothers, Wales, 
Edinburgh, and Connaught, remained standing together. 
The other Princes, Christian, Duke of Teck, and Henry 
of Battenberg, were opposite to us; Battenberg, who 
has a slight, stylish figure, looking handsome in British 
Volunteer Uniform (dark green) with the collar of the 
Garter. Teck looks badly, older and thinner. He must 
have been a very handsome man (which, by the way, he 
tells one frequently). When Prince Alexander of Bat- 
tenberg was at one of the Court balls everyone was talk- 
ing about him and saying what a magnificent man he was. 
Teck, who was dancing a quadrille with me, was much 
put out, and said to me, "Do you really find Battenberg 
so very handsome? It is a pity you didn't know me 
when I was his age; I was much handsomer," and ap- 
pealed to Count D., Austrian Ambassador, an old friend 
and "compagnon d'armes," to support his statement, 



i886] IMPOSING CEREMONIES 237 

which I must say he did most warmly, and one can quite 
see it. 

All the Ambassadors and men of the Corps Diplo- 
matique faced us — the English women were upstairs. 
About 2.30 (we had been there since 1.30) we heard a 
trumpet call, and all the company stood up. We women 
dropped our cloaks, and the Prince took his place stand- 
ing on the dais. Presently appeared the Garter King-at- 
Arms and various officers of the household. The Duke 
of Portland stood on the right of the Throne holding a 
Royal crown on a cushion. Lord Salisbury (Premier) 
carried a large sword with a double handle, and then 
came the Queen followed by Princess Beatrice and 
Princes Eddie and George of Wales. The Queen was 
dressed in black satin with a long train, lined and trimmed 
with ermine, quantities of diamonds on her neck and cor- 
sage, the blue ribbon of the Garter, and a regular closed 
crown of diamonds, and white veil. As she came in the 
Prince of Wales advanced, touched the ground with one 
knee, kissed her hand, and led her to the Throne. He 
did his part most easily and gracefully, and didn't look at 
all shy. The Queen's train was carried by Sir Henry 
Ponsonby and two pages in red and gold. Princess 
Beatrice and the Duchess of Buccleuch (Mistress of the 
Robes) stood behind the Queen on her right, Princes 
Eddie and George on her left, Lord Salisbury, Halsbury, 
Lathom, and some others were also on the dais. As 
soon as the Queen was settled on her Throne she bowed 
to us all right and left. We made deep curtseys, and 
then she made a sign that we were to sit down. There 
was a few moments' silence while they went to summon 
the Commons. Then one heard a noise of scrambling 
and racing in the corridors — and they appeared; the 
Speaker, looking very well in his wig and gown, came 



238 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

first, fairly shot into the hall like a bomb by the impa- 
tient crowd behind him. Then the Lord Chancellor, ask- 
ing the Queen's permission, read her speech in a clear, 
distinct voice, so that one heard every word. It was very 
short, and as soon as it was over the Queen went away 
with the same ceremony as when she came. When she 
got to the foot of the dais she made a very pretty half 
curtsey. The Princes left directly afterwards — we too. 
The crowd in the street was tremendous, everyone always 
is anxious to see the Queen, and much excited over the 
cream-coloured Hanoverian horses which she uses when 
she goes anywhere in semi-state. As they only go out 
very seldom it is rather a responsibility for the Master 
of the Horse to see that they are perfectly quiet. 

Windsor, March 8, 1886. 

We are at Windsor for the second time to dine and 
sleep, and we are "Doyens" now, so have a sweller apart- 
ment in one of the towers — the walls so thick that they 
make splendid deep window recesses (and a piano). We 
had asked an audience of Princess Beatrice, who received 
us before dinner about 7. I wore my brown velvet in 
which I had come down, and we found her in a small 
salon with a piano and pretty pictures and bibelots about. 
She was in an ordinary red costume, and was rather cold 
and shy at first, but thawed when Battenberg appeared. 
He has a delightful easy way, that sort of charm that 
so many Poles have. The party was a small one — no 
other diplomats but Mr. and Mrs. Phelps, both charming, 
and some English. The ceremony was quite the same 
as before. The Queen came about nine and went alone 
into the dining-room, and had her two sons-in-law. 
Christian and Battenberg, on each side. W. took in 
Princess Beatrice, and Mr. Phelps me, so I was quite 



i886] AT WINDSOR AGAIN 239 

happy. The Queen spoke little, in German, principally, 

to her neighbours, the English scarcely at all, and almost 

in whispers. I don't know what would happen to me if 

I dined often at court, I couldn't sit at table for an hour 

without talking to someone. Mr. P. says American 

women are not made for courts and convenances. They 

lose all their charm if they are not natural, and I think 

he is right. The cercle lasted about an hour. The Queen 

and I talked music. She regrets Minister, who is going 

to Paris. 

London, March 9. 

We were asked this morning if we would like to drive 
to the Mausoleum before we went back to town, which 
we accepted of course. W. and I went in an open 
carriage, a pair of horses and postillion, and Lord Thur- 
low, Lord in Waiting, with us. In the next came Mr. 
and Mrs. Phelps with Mrs. F., Lady in Waiting. We 
drove down the "long walk" to the Mausoleum, which is 
not very far from the Castle. It is a handsome building 
with a fine marble floor like some of the old Italian 
chapels. The tomb of the Prince Consort is very fine, 
with a recumbent marble statue and a place beside it 
for the Queen when her turn comes. There is a pretty 
monument "In Memoriam" to Princess Alice (of Hesse) 
with her child in her arms, and a tablet to the memory 
of John Brown as "a grateful tribute from Queen Vic- 
toria to the faithful servant and friend of 34 years." We 
then drove to Frogmore and saw the farm, basse-cour, 
dairy, etc., and took the 12.30 train back to London. 
This evening we have had a handsome dinner and recep- 
tion at the Russian Embassy; the whole house open, band 
playing, and all London there. The Duchess of Edin- 
burgh dined. Corti made his first appearance in the 
"grand monde" as Ambassador. He is much pleased to 



240 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

be in London. I don't know if he and W. will be very 
cordial colleagues, as Corti decidedly resented W.'s at- 
titude in the Berlin Congress. 

To J. K. 

Clieveden, Maidenhead, 
Sunday, March 29, 1886. 

I will begin my letter this evening, Dear Jan, in this 
most lovely place of the Duke of Westminster's which 
Karolyi, the Austrian Ambassador, always hires, until 
after Easter, as his wife hates to spend the winter in town. 
We came down yesterday afternoon with one of their 
secretaries, a nice young fellow. We found the Karolyis 
alone in a charming library filled with books in all 
languages, and with the most enchanting view of the 
Thames — quite like the view from Richmond Terrace, 
if you remember it. They gave us tea — and about 7 we 
went up to our rooms. Mine is the one the Duchess al- 
ways has, and W. has the dressing-room next, a large 
room, all hung with rose-coloured silk, faded into yellow 
now, an enormous bed with yellow silk curtains and 
counterpane, a bath-room with marble bath opening out 
of a little passage, quite complete, and always the same 
divine view. The rooms are filled with pictures, sou- 
venirs of all the Sutherlands (whose place it was orig- 
inally), Westminsters, and all the English Royal family 
of all ages. At 8 a gong sounded and we went down 
to the library (where they live entirely), and found them 
there with the addition of Count Victor Karolyi, a 
cousin. The dinner was good, 4 servants, their chas- 
seurs, in Hungarian uniform, 2 in black and one in 
plain livery. After dinner the 2 Karolyi men sat 
down to cards, W. and the young man talked, also 







1 




J^t^X 






w 






^ 






ffij 






»^S@B^5^ 






dK^WC 






N" '^/ 






















The Countess Fanny Karolyi, 18S8, the Austrian Am- 
bassadress. 


From a photograph by Walery, London. 



i886] CLIEVEDEN 241 

Mme. K. and I — and all the men smoked. It was 
easy enough, as everyone talked a great deal. We 
broke up at 11. This morning we had breakfast at 10, 
and afterwards Mme. K. showed me the house, which is 
very handsome, one large, beautiful drawing-room open- 
ing on the terrace and river view. They live only in the 
library, as the rest is so enormous to light and heat. At 
12 M. and Mme. de Staal, the Russian Ambassador and 
his wife, arrived, and we went for a stroll in the grounds. 
Went out again after lunch for a long walk down by the 
river in short skirts and thick boots, as it was very damp 
— almost always is on the banks, generally low, of the 
Thames. It looked very pretty and gay, quite a number 
of boats and some people we all knew, staying in one of 
the houses near, got out of their boats and walked along 
with us. We came in for tea at 5.30, and after that 
adjourned to our respective rooms till dinner. The 
evening was pleasant, as we were more numerous and 
Staal talks a great deal. Now I am going to bed, as it 
is 1 1 o'clock, and we breakfast at a quarter to ten to- 
morrow, and get back to London at 11.30. 

London, Monday, 30th. 

We got back this morning at 1 for lunch, and have 
been in a wild state ever since with the bad news from 
Tonkin and the defeat of our troops. The Ministry is 
out, and Heaven knows what will happen. W. is as blue 
as indigo over the news, as he had been very cocky over 
Tonkin, as compared with the English blunders in the 
Soudan. Already there are despatches in the clubs here, 
saying W. has been asked to take the Foreign Office. 
Of course he hasn't been asked, and I hope he won't 
be, for I should hate to begin that official life in Paris 
again, and I am very happy here now — however, one 



242 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE 

never knows in political life. Do you know any- 
thing about Phelps? W. is very anxious to have your 
opinion. He says you ought to know about a Vermont 
man. He will have a difficult "succession." Mr. Lowell 
is much liked and admired. 

London, 
April 10, 1886. 

We have had a pleasant morning luncheon at Roll's 
Court with Lord Esher, who showed us a quantity of 
most interesting old manuscripts. A letter from "Bloody 
Mary" to Cardinal Pole announcing her "grossesse" (the 
arrival of a Prince), also the confession and signature of 
Guy Fawkes after torture, such a wavering, faint signa- 
ture, "Guido." It is extraordinary how all the papers 
and handwriting have lasted. All these old-world things 
are so interesting to me, I seem to realize history so much 
more. I hope to get over to Paris for a little this month. 
We had a nice party (music) at Louisa Lady Ashbur- 
ton's this evening, and an interesting collection of people, 
fashionable, literary, and Salvation Army. The house is 
crowded with statues, pictures, and artistic treasures of 
all kinds. 

To J. K. 

Ambassade de France A Londres, 
Sunday, May 29, 1887. 

We seem to have a gleam of sunshine this afternoon, 
Dear Jan, after weeks of bleak east winds and grey skies, 
and we are going to take advantage of it to drive out to 
White Lodge, Richmond Park, and see the Tecks. We 
are revelling in Whitsuntide recess, and no dinners or ban- 
quets until Friday, the second Court Concert. Last night 
I went to the Opera with the Staals. It was "Faust," 
very well given, with Albani, Scalchi, and Gayare. The 



i88 7 l A FOREIGN OFFICE RECEPTION 243 

house was fairly brilliant, but not full — the Prince and 
Princess of Wales, Rothschilds, and a certain number of 
people, who came to hear Albani (she is such a favourite 
here). I should think it would be a losing operation. 
Tell Janet Mile, de Staal looks so nice, is so much 
more animated, really very pretty, so high bred and al- 
ways well dressed. Lady Salisbury's reception at the 
F. O. on Tuesday for the Queen's Birthday was very 
brilliant; there were quantities of Princes; a Danish 
Prince, brother of the Princess of Wales; a young 
Russian Grand Duke, a son of the late Prince Frederick 
Charles, brother of the Duchess of Connaught, and any 
quantity of Maharajahs, covered with gold and silver 
embroidery and diamonds and emeralds as big as eggs. 
They always make a great fuss over the Indian Princes 
at Court — treat them like Royalty, and give them very 
good places. The Corps Diplomatique always protests. 
The lion of the evening was Herbert Bismarck. From 
the Prince of Wales down everyone, men and women, 
was overwhelming him with attentions. I didn't think 
the Danish Prince looked much pleased. He remarked 
that "Bismarck had a most disagreeable voice." Lizzie 
P. was wandering about looking very handsome. I 
didn't see Buffalo Bill, which rather surprised me. I 
suppose he is genuine, isn't he? He professed to remem- 
ber Captain King perfectly when I said I had a brother 
who had been some time on the plains with his regiment. 
Certainly the "Wild West Show" is most original and 
entertaining. The Indians look savage enough to satisfy 
anyone, and Buffalo Bill and the King of the Cowboys 
are splendid specimens of frontiersmen. 

Monday. 

I will finish this morning; it is still dark and rainy. We 
went out yesterday to White Lodge and had a pleasant 



244 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

visit. It was much too cold to sit out, so we had tea in 
the gallery and enjoyed it very much. Princess Mary is 
always so easy. The young Princess May looked very 
nice in a light tweed with a white waistcoat. She asked 
after Janet, and wanted to know if she was to be here this 
season. I asked Princess Mary what she was going to 
wear at the Jubilee Te Deum at Westminster. She said 
she had no idea, but she had been told long dress, smart 
bonnet, decorations and diamonds. It seems the Queen 
is going to wear a white bonnet covered with diamonds. 
I have asked no questions and mean to wear a short dress 
— no one will see, as we do not join any cortege. We 
arrive quite simply and go straight to our places. I 
shall wear white lace with mousse velvet, and a 
mousse bonnet with pink roses. Tell Janet, I am con- 
vinced I shall never wear my moire apricot dress from 
Roulf, that I couldn't wear last year at any of the Court 
fetes. I am sure the German Prince will die. They say 
he may at any moment, as the excrescence in his throat 
may increase, and then he would suffocate. Wouldn't it 
be strange if that old Emperor outlived the son. Neither 
sled nor fans have yet arrived. I suppose they will ap- 
pear soon. We have one or two things we mean to send 
out, as soon as we have an opportunity — gloves, etc. I 
should think some of the 75,000 Americans who are 
coming over would go back in the course of the sum- 
mer. Princess Mary told me yesterday that a pretty 
American girl — an heiress — she couldn't remember the 
name — did I know? — is probably going to marry a 
Count Btetju, aide-de-camp to the Prince of Denmark. 
It seems he saw her here and fell in love with her at once. 
I must stop now. Have any quantity of notes to write. 



i88 7 ] THE HAWAIIAN QUEEN 245 

To G. K. S. 

London, 

June 14, 1887. 

London is getting ready for the Jubilee and the streets 
are crowded. Various Royalties have arrived, and one 
meets Royal carriages, escorts, and strong squads of 
police at every turn. It is warm and lovely to-day — so 
was yesterday. W., Francis and I drove out to Sheen, 
where W. plays tennis in Lord F.'s private court. I wan- 
dered about under the trees, and Francis sailed his boat 
in the pond and was quite happy. It is such a rest to 
get a few hours in the country when one is going out all 
the time as we are here — and above all not to have to 
talk. We had a remarkable entertainment last night, 
given by the Hawaiian Secretary (who is a German- 
American) for his Queen, of the Sandwich Islands. We 
arrived in due time, I rather protesting. 

There was a large reception after dinner and the mis- 
tress of the house asked us if we wouldn't stand by the 
Queen and make a sort of cercle, and a funny contrast 
we made — Mrs. P. beautifully dressed in white satin and 
lace, Lady R. with splendid jewels, I wore my pink 
brocade and old Venetian lace. It really was too absurd. 
I talked a little to the Princess, who is intelligent 
enough. The Queen is a great stickler for etiquette, 
and insisted upon the same honours as any other Roy- 
alties, an escort of Life Guards; — wouldn't accept any 
less distinguished escort. 

London, 
June 18, 1887. 

We have had rather an amusing afternoon. I think 
I wrote you that we wanted to leave Westminster Abbey 
the minute the ceremony was over, get through the line 
of troops, and back to a friend's house in Piccadilly to see 
the cortege — we being Mrs. Phelps and I. Our respec- 



246 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

tive husbands were most discouraging (as men always 
are), but we dined last night with Knowles to meet the 
Duke of Cambridge, and I told His Royal Highness what 
we wanted to do, and asked him if he could help us. 
After some little discussion he said he would advise us to 
go directly to Sir Charles Warren (Chief of Police) and 
see what he could arrange for us. Again our husbands 
remonstrated, "Warren was overrun with applications of 
all kinds, worked to death, and it was very unreason- 
able," but backed by the Duke we determined to try. 

I told His Royal Highness I should put on my most 
becoming Paris bonnet and beard the lion in his den. 
He said, "Quite right, my dear, a man is always flattered 
when a woman tries to please him," so accordingly about 
3 Mrs. Phelps and I started for Scotland Yard. George 
was rather surprised when I gave the order. We drove 
through one or two courts and were stopped once by a 
huge policeman, who let us go on when we said it was the 
French Ambassadress. We were shown at once into Sir 
Charles's room, and I must say he was charming, most 
kind and courteous. We had arranged beforehand that 
I was to be spokeswoman, and I went at once to the 
point. He was sitting at his table with letters and papers 
and telegrams, the telegraph ticking all the time, de- 
spatches and telegrams being brought in, and as busy a 
man as I ever saw. He immediately sent for maps of 
the route, distribution of the troops, etc., and said he 
thought he could manage it. We must have a light car- 
riage (of course we must go to the Abbey in state in the 
gala coach) waiting at the Poets' Corner, as near the 
door as it can get; he will send us a pass to break through 
the lines, and will have three or four policemen waiting 
for us at the corner of Piccadilly and one of the smaller 
streets to pass us through the crowd. We really didn't 



i88 7 ] JUBILEE STREET SCENES 247 

derange him very much. The whole conversation lasted 
about ten minutes, and he was rather amused at this 
sudden appearance of the two "femmes du monde" in his 
"milieu" of clerks, policemen, telegraph boys, type-writ- 
ers and a hurrying, bustling crowd of employes of all 
kinds. We returned triumphant to our respective 
houses. 

We had a fine reception last night at the Austrian Em- 
bassy in honour of Prince Rudolph. We arrived late, 
having dined out. The Prince is very good-looking, 
slight, elegant figure, and charming manners and smile. 
All the world was there — quantities of pretty women, 
and pretty dresses — the Countess Karolyi always the 
handsomest. 

London, 
June 20, 1887. 

London is really a sight to-day, the streets gay with 
flags, draperies, stands, illuminations, and quantities of 
people gaping all day long. I went for a drive with 
Mary Sheridan, daughter of Mr. Motley, late Minister 
from the United States to the Court of St. James. We 
didn't attempt going down Piccadilly, as we saw what a 
dense crowd and block there was, so we crossed to Con- 
stitution Hill. We went all round Westminster Abbey; 
I wanted to see the Poets' Corner where we are to go in 
to-morrow, and the House of Commons stand where she 
is to be with her sister. We were blocked for a quarter 
of an hour standing close to the Embankment. Some 
of the mottoes are very nice. I like the humble ones best, 
"God bless our Queen." We were a long time getting 
back to the Embassy, Piccadilly almost impassable. It 
was amusing, as everyone was arranging their balconies, 
and we recognised various friends standing at windows, 
and on balconies directing the arrangement of chairs, 



248 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE TJune 

plants, flags, etc. After dinner W. took his cigar and we 
walked about a little in Piccadilly. Some of the illumina- 
tions had already begun and the crowd was dense, but 
no jostling or roughs, everyone good-humoured and 
wildly interested in the decorations. London is trans- 
formed for the moment and looks like a great continental 
city, all lights and flags and an "air de fete." We didn't 
stay out very late, as we have a long day before us to- 
morrow. They say the Queen is well, but rather "emue" 
and a little nervous, which must be expected. I shall 
wear white, the only objection to that being that jewels 
won't show out, as they would on a darker colour. 



To H. L. K. 

Albert Gate, London, 
June 22, 1887. 

I am still exhausted, Dear, with the visions of a brill- 
iant, motley, moving crowd, when I shut my eyes. Yes- 
terday was beautiful, a glorious summer day. I was 
waked up at 6.30 by the dull rumble of carriages, and 
people already on the move. I thought they must have 
forgotten to call me, but the house was still wrapped in 
slumber, and though it was only 6.30 the Park was full of 
carriages, men in uniform and women in full dress. We 
started at 9.30 in the gala carriage, W. in uniform, and 
were followed by a second carriage, landau, the men 
equally in gala. We remained blocked for a long time in 
Piccadilly, it didn't seem possible to get on; distracted 
policemen, mounted and on foot, and officers did what 
they could, but there we remained, curiously enough 
all the Ambassadors' carriages together. Finally an or- 
der was given to let the Ambassadors' carriages pass, 
and we got on a little. Various Court carriages passed 



i88 7 ] IN WESTMINSTER ABBEY 249 

us — one so pretty with the three little daughters of the 
Duke of Edinburgh all in white with straw hats, and long 
white feathers, sitting on the back seat, and smiling and 
bowing, and looking quite charming with their fair hair 
streaming down their backs. They had an equerry in 
uniform with them on the front seat. Once past St. 
James's Street we went quickly enough thro' long lines 
of soldiers, and behind them quantities of people waiting 
patiently to see the great show. We went into the 
Abbey at the Poets' Corner, where an entrance was re- 
served for the Corps Diplomatique and Court function- 
aries. It was a fine sight; tier upon tier of seats covered 
with red cloth and filled with men in uniform, and women 
in handsome dresses. The Peers and Peeresses sat just 
below us and looked very well; as it was Collar Day, all 
the Garter men wore their white shoulder-knots, which 
were most effective. It was very difficult to distinguish 
people, the building is so enormous, but as we were close 
to the dais we saw all the Royalties perfectly. At last 
various members of the Royal Family came in, and the 
first Sovereign to enter was Her Majesty of the Sand- 
wich Islands with her cortege; then came quickly the 
King of the Belgians, King of Denmark, various other 
Princes, and they all took their places on a platform fac- 
ing the Queen's dais. We waited some time, and then 
came a flourish of trumpets which announced the 
Queen's arrival. It was most interesting to see her come 
up the aisle — quite alone in front — her three sons, Wales, 
Edinburgh, and Connaught, just behind her. She was 
dressed in black with silver embroidery, a white lace bon- 
net with feathers, and lace caught back by diamond pins. 
As she reached the dais she stepped on it quite alone, and 
advancing to the front made a pretty curtsey to the as- 
sembled Royalties. Then came a long procession of 



250 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

family Princes, headed by the Prince of Wales and the 
German Crown Prince, who looked magnificent in his 
white uniform, and the Princess of Wales and the Ger- 
man Crown Princess. They all passed before the Queen, 
and it was most striking to see her seated there, a 
quiet figure dressed in black, very composed and smil- 
ing, yet "emue" too, as the long line of children and 
grandchildren representing all Europe passed to do her 
homage. It was a gorgeous crowd of uniforms, orders, 
jewels, and really glittering garments of all kinds; but 
every eye was fixed on the central figure. The service 
began at once and was impressive. The Prince Con- 
sort's "Te Deum" sounded magnificent with organ and 
full band. I must own to considerable distraction dur- 
ing the service, as I was quite taken up with looking at 
everything. When the ceremony was over — or nearly 
— we started at once, found our carriage (ordinary 
landau) at the Poets' Corner again, and drove quickly 
around by Belgravia and Albert Gate (breaking the lines 
of troops once or twice, but with no difficulty, as orders 
had been given), to the corner of Hamilton Place and 
Piccadilly. There we had to leave the carriage, but it 
was merely a few steps to my friend's house where we 
were to see the procession pass; however we should 
never have got there if we hadn't found the 4 gigantic 
policemen who were waiting for us, and who deposited 
us rather pulled about, but intact, at the door. We 
found the balcony prettily decorated and filled with 
people, and had an excellent view of the procession. The 
Queen's carriage was handsome, an open landau red and 
gold, with six cream-coloured horses with red and gold 
trappings, and running footmen. She was alone on the 
back seat; the Princesses of Wales and Germany on the 
front seat. The escort of Princes was very brilliant. 




Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the State Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 
From a photograph, copyright, by Hughes & Mullins, Ryde, England. 



i88 7 ] THE PROCESSION 251 

The Prince of Wales looked well on a fine horse, and the 
German Crown Prince superb, towering over everyone 
else, and his helmet shining in the bright sunlight. The 
cheering was tremendous as the Queen passed, and one 
felt it was absolutely genuine (nothing commande), her 
people (I always like that phrase so much, "My people," 
when she uses it in a speech or proclamation) really de- 
lighted to have her still with them. Another who also 
was much cheered was Princess Mary of Teck. They 
love her, and she looked so happy and smiling as she ac- 
knowledged the salutation. She has such a gracious 
manner always to everyone — never seems bored. How- 
ever I must say that for the Prince of Wales; no matter 
what the function is (and he must be bored very often) 
he never looks it, but always does graciously, and as if 
he liked it, whatever he undertakes. There was a very 
substantial lunch provided for us at Lady Borthwick's, 
and as soon as the cortege disappeared I clamoured for 
something to eat, as it was nearly 3.30, and I had had 
nothing to eat but my early cup of tea and piece of 
toast about 8.30. I went straight back to the Embassy 
after luncheon — even then, at 4 o'clock, we had to go 
at a foot's pace thro' the crowd — and I didn't stir again 
all the afternoon, but I had visitors at tea-time, as of 
course the windows and balconies giving on the Park 
were most attractive. There were thousands of people 
still in the Park, and Royal carriages and escorts coming 
and going; music, flags, and a general impression of 
movement and colour everywhere. 

In the evening we started at 10 for the Palace, and 
they thought there would be such a crowd that we had a 
mounted policeman, but we had no trouble. Everyone 
made way for the carriage, though, of course, the general 
traffic was stopped, and everybody (including our own 



252 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

secretaries, who weren't invited to the Palace, merely 
the "chefs de mission") in the middle of the streets, look- 
ing at the illuminations. There was great confusion at 
the Palace — dinners still going on and servants hurrying 
backward and forward with dishes, and piles of plates on 
the floor as we passed through the long corridor. We 
had to pass through the great hall where the numerous 
"suites" were dining — and we naturally hesitated a mo- 
ment as they were still at table — but Colonel Byng came 
forward and ushered us upstairs, and into one of the 
large rooms. There were very few people — the "chefs 
de mission," the Nunzio who had come expressly, Lord 
and Lady Salisbury, and Lord C, Indian Secretary 
(as there were many Indian Princes). We waited nearly 
an hour and were then summoned to the ball-room, 
where the Queen and Court were assembled. The 
Queen was standing, dressed just as she always is for 
a Drawing-room, with her small diamond crown and 
veil, and again the background of Princes and uni- 
forms made a striking contrast to the one black-robed 
figure. The Prince of Wales stood a little behind, on 
her right, also Lord Lathom (Lord Chamberlain). We 
all passed before her, two by two, with our husbands, and 
she said a few words to each one, but no real conversa- 
tion ; it was evidently an effort, and we felt we must not 
stay a moment longer than necessary. I talked to one 
or two people while the others were passing. The Ger- 
man Crown Princess came over and talked to us. I 
asked her if the Queen was very tired. She said not 
nearly as much as she expected, it was more the anticipa- 
tion of the day that had made her nervous, that she was 
very agitated when she started, but that wore off, and 
she was not very tired this evening, and very happy, as 
were all her children. I said, "You might add her 



i88 7 ] THE CHILDREN'S FETE 253 

people, Madam, for I never saw such a splendid outburst 
of loyalty." The Crown Princess herself is perfectly de- 
lightful, so clever and cultivated, and so easy, with such 
beautiful, clear, smiling eyes. Do you remember how 
much I admired her in Rome the first time I met her? 
She is always so kind to us. W. loves to talk to her; 
they don't always agree, but she quite understands people 
having their own opinions, rather prefers it, I think, as 
she must necessarily be so often thrown with people who 
never venture to disagree with her. The Crown Prince 
of Sweden also came and recalled himself to me, and the 
Due d'Aoste. The Queen remained about an hour; then 
the Royal party moved off in procession, and we got our 
carriages as quickly as we could. I have written you a 
volume (but you must say that doesn't happen often from 
my lazy pen, but I felt I must write at once, or I should 
never have the courage). Please send the letter to the 
family in America. I am dead tired, and my eyes shut- 
ting by themselves. 

London, June 22, 1887. 
We went this afternoon with the Florians, Comte dc 
Florian, Secretary of the Embassy, and Comtesse de 
Florian, Francis, Baroness Hilda Deichmann and her 
children and some of the Embassy men, to the chil- 
dren's fete in Hyde Park. It was very pretty, and very 
well arranged; 30,000 children from all parts of Lon- 
don, and amusements, food, and jubilee mugs provided 
for all. We got there a little after 3, and it was warm 
and fatiguing standing and walking about. There were 
various refreshment tents for the "quality committee," 
etc., and the children got iced cream and cakes to their 
hearts' content, also each a jubilee mug with which they 
were much pleased. The Prince and Princess of Wales, 



254 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

with some of the foreign Princes, came about 4 (and 
horribly bored the foreigners looked — naturally). We 
stood and walked about until 6, when the Queen arrived. 
Her procession was rather pretty, just a troop of 
mounted police, then the Life Guards, the Indian 
contingent, and the Queen in an open carriage with 
4 horses, the postilions in black, and two Highland 
servants in costume behind. The Crown Princess of 
Germany, Princess Christian, and Duke of Edinburgh 
in the carriage with her; and the Duke of Cambridge 
(Ranger of the Park) riding at the portiere. Several 
Royal carriages followed, all the women in smart 
clothes, and the men in uniform, as the Queen was 
to make her formal Jubilee entree into Windsor on 
leaving London after the fete. There was such a press 
and jostling when the Queen came — even the women 
pushing and struggling to get to the front, that I should 
have been nearly crushed with the two children (I had 
Hilda and Francis with me) if Prince Hermann of Saxe- 
Weimar hadn't recognised me and come to my rescue. 
He is very tall and broad, so he made way for me, put the 
children in front, and then stood behind me so that no one 
could get at me. I must say it was a fine struggle, the 
ladies used their arms valiantly. A small slight woman 
would have had no show at all. The Queen didn't get 
out of her carriage. The Prince stood bareheaded at the 
carriage door all the time the Queen was there, and va- 
rious people were brought up and presented to her. I 
found plenty of people to talk to, among others the Ger- 
man Crown Prince, who they say is in a very bad way; 
he doesn't look changed, perhaps a little thinner, but the 
voice has gone. He spoke in a whisper. He noticed the 
children, said Francis was very like his father. I told 
him Hilda was a little compatriote, and named her to him. 




The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the Uni- 
form Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration, Lon- 
don, June, 1887. 

From a photograph by Loescher & Petsch, Berlin. 



i88 7 ] A BALL AT LANSDOWNE HOUSE 255 

He knows her parents well. The Queen was much 
cheered as she drove off ; then there were more cheers for 
the Prince, who acknowledged them most graciously, as 
he does always. We had again rather a struggle to get 
through the crowd and across to the Embassy, and then 
at 6.30 I had some tea, got into a tea-gown, and refused 
to move again. W. tried to entice me to the Foreign 
Office where there was a big reception, but I was utterly 
incapable of another word (the heat always tries me so); 
so he departed sadly, but didn't stay long — merely 
showed himself. He said the crowd was awful, and Lord 
Cranborne, the son of the house, in a wild state on the 
stairs, with his supper list, as he couldn't find half the 
people. W. told him not to worry about us, as he was 
going home, and I was in bed. 



To H. L. K. 

London, 
June 24, 1887. 

Yesterday I had rather a quiet day, I was still so dead 
tired after the children's fete. Jean and I drove about 
in the afternoon. She wanted to see the "Black 
Queen," as the Queen of the Sandwich Islands is called, 
and we crossed her once or twice driving in the Park. 
It does look funny to see her sitting up in the Royal car- 
riage with red liveries. We had a beautiful ball last 
night, given by Lord and Lady Rosebery at Lansdowne 
House for all the Royalties. The House was beautifully 
arranged; the ballroom panelled half way up the wall 
with red roses and green leaves. I danced a quadrille with 
the King of Greece, who is easy and talks a great deal ; 
he speaks English perfectly well. He asked about the 



256 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

Schuylers, and spoke most warmly of them- — said Schuy- 
ler was one of the few perfectly intelligent men he had 
ever met, "knew everything about everything." I must 
write it to them. The supper was very well arranged, 
small tables of eight or ten. Almost all the Royalties 
were there, but not the Hawaiian Queen. I asked our 
host why he hadn't invited Queen Kapiolani; but he said 
he really couldn't. The ball was small, and Lady Rose- 
bery left out many of her friends, who naturally were not 
pleased. W. actually stayed to supper — I was so sur- 
prised, as he hates it. 

June 24, 1887. 

This afternoon all the swells went to Ranelagh to see 
a polo match, but I thought I would reserve myself for 
the Palace Ball. The Queen didn't appear, but we had 
two others, the Queen of the Belgians, and always Kapi- 
olani. It was badly managed at first, the result being that 
when the Court came we had a crowd of people, officers, 
pages, etc., about four deep in front of us, so that we 
could neither see nor be seen, nor hardly move. When 
the first "quadrille d'honneur" was being danced we saw 
nothing, so after a consultation we all left the ball-room. 
Then there were various "pourparlers," and they finally 
did what they should have done at first, enlarged the 
circle, so that we were out of the crowd and near the 
Court. There was also a great rush at supper, so that they 
had to shut one door for a moment. I didn't see many 
people to talk to, but of course it was very difficult. The 
Grand Duchess Serge looked beautiful, with splendid em- 
eralds (she is the daughter of Princess Alice), and the 
Duchesse de Braganza (daughter of the Comte de Paris) 
was charming, so very high-bred, tall and slight, with a 
pretty little dark head. I always find the Princess of 



1887] REVIEW OF THE VOLUNTEERS 257 

Wales the most distinguished looking. She stands out 
everywhere. Our "Doyenne," Countess Karolyi, was 
superb — also with magnificent jewels. The Indian 
Princes made a great show, of course, with their silk, 
heavily embroidered tuniques, and the quantities of jew- 
els, but they are not often well cut, nor well set, and they 
themselves are certainly off color — they look barbarians, 
and have such false faces — I wouldn't trust one of them. 

London, 
July 3, 1887. 

It is delicious summer weather now, and yesterday we 
went to Buckingham Palace to see the Queen review the 
Volunteers. I wore for the first time my Jubilee Medal. 
It came Friday with a note from the Duchess of Rox- 
burghe saying the Queen hoped I would wear it as a 
souvenir of her Jubilee. It is a plain little silver medal 
about the size of a two-shilling piece, with the Queen's 
head on one side and an inscription on the other, fastened 
to a bow of blue and white ribbon. We three Ambas- 
sadresses are the only women of the Corps Diplomatique 
that have it. All the Queen's household have it, Duch- 
esses of Bedford, Buccleuch, Roxburghe, etc. The 
Princesses, also, of course, but theirs are in gold. 

It was most amusing waiting in the courtyard of the 
Palace seeing everyone arrive. All the Royalties took up 
their positions at the foot of the Queen's tribune, and 
waited for her. Our tribune was on one side of hers, and 
one for the Indian Princes opposite. The Volunteers 
looked and passed very well ; as it was Saturday after- 
noon and the shops in London are closed early always 
Saturday, all the various butchers, bakers, and candle- 
stick-makers could leave their shops and parade, and ex- 
tremely well some of them looked; stout, heavy men 



258 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE Qulv 

moving quite lightly and at ease in their stiff uniforms. 
It was pretty to see the various Princes break away from 
their places on the Duke of Cambridge's staff and ride 
ahead of the various regiments of which they are honor- 
ary colonels. The Prince of Wales looked well on his 
handsome chestnut, which is perfectly trained and steps 
beautifully. The Duke of Connaught is a handsome sol- 
dier. We were a long time getting away, but as we had 
no dinner-party it wasn't of any consequence. It was 
such a pleasure not to put on a low bodice and diamonds. 
I always grumble about putting on my diadem — as a rule 
I never wear anything in my hair, not even feathers (ex- 
cept at Court), and the diadem is heavy. After dinner 
W. and I went for a drive along the Thames Embank- 
ment — our favourite recreation after a long, hot day. 
There are still people about, and a general air of festivity. 

London, 
July 21, 1887. 

It is just four years to-day since W. came to London. 
We got back from Moscow and the Coronation the 6th, 
and almost immediately the Minister offered W. London. 
My "beau-frere" said he would give us two years when 
we came over. I wonder how much longer it will last. 
We had a big dinner to-night, and Lord Lathom, the 
Lord Chamberlain, was next to me. He said no one 
could imagine how difficult it had been to arrange every- 
thing for the Jubilee ceremonies; that the Queen was 
consulted on every point, as she knew more about 
etiquette and court ceremonies than anyone else. One 
day he had 42 telegrams from her. We told him we 
thought everything was well managed (except the ball, 
where all the young officers crowded in front of us, and 
stepped on our toes, and on our trains). He quite ad- 



i88 7 ] THE NAVAL REVIEW 259 

mitted that that might have been better done, but also 
remarked that he thought the Corps Diplomatique a lit- 
tle exacting; so, as usual, there are two sides to every 
question. 

To H. L. K. 

London, 

July 25, 1887. 
We have had a nice outing, Dear, thanks to the Naval 
Review ; two such beautiful interesting days. I am 
burned brown as a berry, but, as the season is over, that 
is of no consequence, and I shall have plenty of time at 
Bourneville to bleach. We started Saturday at 9.30 for 
Portsmouth with the Florians, Waru, and R., Naval At- 
tache, in a special train. The harbour looked so pretty 
as we came in sight of it. Every description of vessel 
(even the "Victory," Nelson's old ship, now a training 
ship), and all sorts of ironclads, big steamers, yachts, and 
the smallest sort of pleasure-boat, dressed with flags. We 
went at once on board the "Helicon," a small despatch 
boat, especially destined to the Corps Diplomatique and 
distinguished strangers. There were about 150 people 
on board, all colleagues, also the Arch Duke Regnier of 
Austria, and the two young sons of the Due d'Aoste with 
their suites. Directly after us came two great English 
transports painted white, one for the Lords, and one for 
the Commons, and all around us a fleet of ordinary 
rowing-boats and barges filled with people — quanti- 
ties of women and children. We steamed slowly 
across the Solent to Osborne to meet the Queen, 
and passed close to the great ironclads, which looked 
monsters, and formidable ones. We had a hand- 
some substantial lunch on board, to which we all did 
honour. There were not many foreign ships. Our 
two looked very well and were much admired, an old 



26o- LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

frigate, the "Iphigenie," now a training ship, with the 
midshipmen on board, and the "Elan," a pretty little de- 
spatch boat. There were only two other foreign boats : 
a German and a Dutchman. The Italian ships put into 
Spithead, and then went off to Dartmouth, no one knows 
why exactly. Some say they were not satisfied with their 
place (they arrived after the French ships, and would 
have been decidedly farther off, and behind ours), others 
that they were not in good condition, not smart enough ; 
however, they were not there and the Italian Princesses 
who had expected to sleep on board, and meet their 
brother who is on one of the ships, were much disgusted. 
As soon as the "Osborne," with the Queen, the Prince of 
Wales, and the King of Greece (we didn't understand 
the Greek flag at first, as we didn't know the King was 
on board), had passed, we followed and went down the 
line. It was a beautiful sight, and England could cer- 
tainly be proud of her great ironclads filling the harbour, 
and showing her strength as a naval power. We went 
slowly, and it was amusing to hear the criticisms and 
appreciations of all the assembled foreigners on the show 
— however, I suppose all ironclads now are pretty much 
alike, only England happens to have three times as many 
as any of the rest of us. About 6 o'clock there was a 
halt. We of course had tea on deck, and suddenly we 
saw quantities of steam launches coming across the water 
in all directions. They looked like enormous white birds 
in the distance. They were almost all white, low in the 
water, and going very fast. The captains of all the ships 
had been called on board the Queen's yacht to be received 
by her. This made a long delay, and our colleagues were 
getting impatient, as they foresaw that they would be 
very late in getting back to London. We took that op- 
portunity to ask the Captain of the "Helicon" to bear 



i88 7 ] ON BOARD THE IPHIGENIE 261 

clown toward the "Iphigenie," as we were to dine and 
sleep on board. We changed our course a little, and in 
about 10 minutes two very smart French boats ran along- 
side, coming up in grand style. The three English offi- 
cers stood on the bridge and helped us off, and I must say 
it was all done admirably — not the slightest confusion, 
and we were a big party. Our fellow-passengers de- 
cidedly envied us. The Bylandts (Dutch Minister) were 
much put out. They had asked the Captain of their ship 
to let them dine and sleep on board, but he refused ab- 
solutely ; said he had just arrived from a long cruise, and 
was not prepared to receive anyone. We got to the 
"Iphigenie" in about 15 minutes. The Commandant, 
Noccomore, was standing on the bridge. W. got out 
first, then T., and as soon as W. put his foot on the 
deck, where all the sailors, officers, and midshipmen were 
drawn up, there was a salute of drums and clarions (they 
couldn't give the regular salute of guns to the Ambas- 
sador, as, when the Queen is in the harbour, no one else 
can be saluted). The Commandant gave me his arm, 
and we went at once to his quarters (or rather "carre," as 
they say on board ship). We passed through a fine room 
or hall, the entire width of the frigate, where a good-sized 
dinner-table was ready. The Commandant asked when 
we would dine; we said in a "quart d'heure," just the time 
to wash our faces, which were black with smoke and red 
with sun, and he showed W. and me our quarters (his 
of course), and most comfortable. The cabin large, 
with a wardrobe, and a large "cabinet de toilette," with 
English wash-stand, bath-room, etc. For one person it 
was perfectly roomy. Of course when a second bed was 
put in the "cabinet de toilette" it was a little small. 
Mmes. de Florian and Heurtel had the second officer's 
cabin, and the men hammocks in some part of the ship. 



262 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

The dinner was good and handsome. I had the 
"Aumonier" on the other side of me. He was intelli- 
gent, ready to talk about anything, and the dinner was 
very agreeable. Plenty of talk. W. talked a great deal, 
and the naval officers were interesting, as they always 
are. They have seen so much, and had such varied ex- 
periences. After dinner we had coffee in the Command- 
ant's salon, and then went on deck, where we spent a 
delightful evening. The sea was perfectly calm, not a 
ripple, and lights everywhere — all the ships illuminated 
and sending off fireworks at intervals. We could hardly 
see our own, but the little "Elan" looked very smart and 
natty. We broke up about n, and I don't know when 
I have enjoyed anything so much as that perfectly quiet 
summer night on the water; such a rest after the long 
day, and early start from London. We promised to be 
ready at a quarter to 10 for Mass, and the visit of the 
ship. You would have been amused to see how well 
Drejet did my service (they asked me if I could do with- 
out my maid for one night, as they really didn't know 
what to do with her). He told Adelaide he could do 
everything for me except my hair, and tying my sash, 
which seemed to be a serious performance to him, and 
really all my dressing things were put out and a "saut de 
lit" disposed gracefully over the back of a chair just as 
A. always did. I supposed she coached him. I was stir- 
ring early enough the next morning, but I couldn't tie my 
sash either, so I wandered out on the deck to have my 
early tea, and Countess de Florian helped me to finish 
my toilette. We went all over the ship before Mass. 
The midshipmen's quarters are small, but of course beau- 
tifully kept, and the young men all looked as smiling 
and prosperous as possible, and were much pleased at the 
Ambassador's visit. At 10 o'clock we assembled on deck 




Comtesse de Florian. 
From a photograph by W'alery, London. 



i88 7 ] MASS ON BOARD SHIP 263 

for Mass. Part of the deck was covered in with flags, 
and as a compliment to my nationality they had put the 
"Stars and Stripes" immediately over my head. I was 
much pleased, as it is a good many years since I have sat 
under the old flag. I suppose I can't say my Hag any 
more, but I feel it all the same. There were three arm- 
chairs directly in front of the altar — two big ones for 
W. and me and a smaller one between for the Command- 
ant. As soon as we were seated the Abbe came, made a 
bow to W. and me, and began his Mass. It was very 
impressive — so still, not a sound except the little waves 
beating against the side of the ship, and the word of 
command for the marines at the raising of the Host, when 
there was a fine salute of drums and bugles. We had a 
very gay breakfast, the Captain of the "Elan" coming 
to join us, and at 1 o'clock we left our hospitable frigate 
for the "Elan" which was going to cruise about with us 
all the afternoon. They certainly received us most hos- 
pitably and charmingly; I shall often think of those 
quiet hours on the deck, and the Mass this morning, which 
impressed me very much. We had a lovely afternoon on 
the "Elan," practically doing the Review over again, and 
going close up to the big ironclads, such ugly, heavy 
masses as they seem when one is near them. We crossed 
over to Cowes, went alongside of the Prince of Wales' 
yacht, but didn't stop. The captain gave us an interest- 
ing account of their reception on the "Osborne." It 
seems there was some mistake in the orders brought by 
the Aide-de-Camp of the Admiral of the Fleet. The 
Commandant of the "Iphigenie" thought he could 
take several officers with him, and when he appeared 
on the "Osborne" with 5 or 6 officers, the Admiral 
was much embarrassed, and didn't know what to do, 
as the Queen intended to receive only the Command- 



264 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

ants. However the Prince of Wales, with his never- 
failing tact, said he would put it all right, and in a 
few moments they were told that the Queen would 
be very pleased to receive all the French officers. 
They told us they saw a lady in deep mourning, with 
perfectly white hair, standing behind the Queen, who 
looked so earnestly at the French uniforms, and was 
agitated when they passed; they only realised afterward 
that it was the Empress.* I wonder if I shall ever see 
her, I would like to so much. We dined on board, 
anchored just off Portsmouth, and got back to London 
about 11 o'clock, having enjoyed our two days im- 
mensely. It was a beautiful ending to the Jubilee, and 
a beautiful sight. The "cadre" was so lovely for all 
those big ships. All the line of the Isle of Wight is so 
pretty, beautifully green, and the Solent covered with 
boats of all descriptions, and plenty of room for all. 
Some of the small row-boats seemed dangerously near 
the big steamers, but nothing ever happened. When I 
get back to Bourneville and take up my quiet life in the 
woods, these last days will seem a sort of fairy-tale. 

London, 
July 29, 1887. 

We are starting to-morrow. I had a farewell ride this 
morning, hardly anyone in the Row, Dandy going beau- 
tifully (you know he is the chestnut I called after the 
famous horse in one of Charlie's stories), except a good 
kick from time to time, which is a bore, not only for me 
(I lost my hat the other day), but for the neighbours. 
We dined at Lord A.'s last night, and he gave us a funny 
account of his experience on the House of Lords boat. 

* Empress Eugenie, widow of Napoleon III., who has lived in England 
for many years. 



i88 7 J UNFORTUNATE EXPERIENCES 265 

To begin with he had much difficulty in getting tickets, 
and could get none for his daughters, only himself and 
Lady A. (and he is Hereditary Lord Chamberlain), and 
when he finally did get on the boat he found it crowded 
with all sorts of unknown people, very few peers, and 
very little food. They were faint with hunger before 
the end of the day, so I told him about our handsome 
dinner and hospitable reception on our frigate. Bylandt 
then told us how badly they fared. They cruised about 
for some time in the "Helicon" after we got off, then 
finally the passengers begged to be landed. They were at 
last deposited at Portsmouth, and then made a rush for 
the buffet in the railway station, but that had been com- 
pletely "devalise," there wasn't a crumb, not even a dry 
biscuit. Then they were conducted with much pomp to 
reserved carriages which were locked, and there they re- 
mained for over an hour, seeing various trains start, and 
at last arrived in London at one o'clock in the morning. 
Poor Bylandt was much disgusted. We thought a little 
of asking to keep the "Elan" for a week, and of doing the 
Cowes week, but W. thought on the whole it would be 
close quarters, and was not very keen about it. I should 
have liked it. We had all the staff who remain to dine 
to-night. London is curiously empty — all the chairs 
being taken away from the Park, which gives it a decided 
air of "fin de saison." 



To G. K. S. 

Albert Gate House, 
March 2, 1888. 

I have been back about two weeks and am quite settled 
again. I have always two or three disagreeable days 
when I first come back from France. The coal fires try 



y- 



266 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

me very much and I think regretfully of the enormous 
chimneys at Bourneville and the trees that we burned 
there. We have a fog and it is very cold. Francis and 
I went to skate yesterday at the Botanical Gardens. The 
ice was very bad, there was very little room, and swarms 
of children struggling along on their little skates, but the 
outing was pleasant. I also went one day with a friend 
to Wimbledon, and that was better. We drove down 
and had a pleasant afternoon, but the ice was soft, and 
it was the end. Really though, in March in England, 
one could hardly expect to skate. 

March 8th. 

Hilda came in this morning with very bad news of the 
German Emperor. The Crown Prince was to start from 
the Riviera, and I am afraid he is in a bad way too. He 
looked such a magnificent man at the Jubilee Fetes. Of 
course even then his voice and colour showed that some- 
thing was wrong, but it was difficult to believe that a 
mortal disease was mining his strength. We have had 
telegrams all the afternoon, and at 5 they told us the 
Emperor was dead. We sent immediately to Mrs. Jeune, 
where we were engaged to dine to meet Prince and 
Princess Christian of Schleswig-Holstein, to know if her 
dinner was put off; but the answer came back that the 
dinner was to take place. We went of course, and found 
Princess Christian and Lady Salisbury. Prince Chris- 
tian, as a German Prince and a relation of the German 
Royal Family, did not come ; neither did Lord Salisbury, 
who had received a telegram from Berlin announcing the 
Emperor's death. The Princess looked anxious and was 
evidently very much worried at the journey of the Crown 
Prince in such weather, in his delicate state. She left al- 
most instantly after dinner. The Drawing-room is post- 



i888] A FUNERAL SERVICE 267 

poned. The Crown Prince starts to-morrow morning. 

All eyes are upon him, and will follow his journey with 

hopes and fears. 

Sunday, March 18th. 

We all went to the funeral service for the German Em- 
peror this morning in the German Lutheran Chapel close 
to Marlborough House. I was quite correct this time, 
and was swathed in crepe; Mrs. Lecky has lent me her 
long crepe veil, which will serve again probably, as every- 
one seems to think the Emperor Frederick is doomed. All 
the men were in uniform with crepe on their sleeves and 
sword hilts (the Germans with their helmets covered with 
crepe) and the women in woollen dresses with crepe veils. 
Almost all the Princesses were there (not the Princess of 
Wales), but the Princes were in Berlin. The service was 
long, and curiously enough was not the Lutheran service, 
but the regular Church of England service translated into 
German. It was done, it seems, for George II, who was 
obliged to follow the Church of England service, and 
who didn't understand a zvord of English. There was 
much chanting, two addresses, and a sermon. 

Everyone of course is talking and speculating over 
what will happen in Germany. All the doctors say the 
Emperor Frederick is near his end. No one seems to 
know exactly what will be the attitude of the present 
Crown Prince. He is young, intelligent, with an iron 
will; all good qualities in a sovereign, but he has little 
experience and an absolute confidence in his own judg- 
ment. 

To H. L. K. 

London, April 25, 1888. 

We hear a great deal now here about Boulanger, and 
there seems to be the most extraordinary "engouement" 



268 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [April 

for him here as well as in France. Roustan, the Naval 
Attache, has just come back from Paris and says the state 
of things is very serious, people have lost their heads 
over Boulanger. He (R.) thinks it is the most serious 
crisis France has passed through since the Commune. 
W. is less blue — he knows the famous General very little, 
but doesn't think there is much character or backbone 
there. 

We had a big dinner the other night at Lord Roths- 
child's, and Lord Hartington, a well-known political and 
social figure, sat between me and the Princesse de Wa- 
gram. He naturally asked us, the only two Frenchwomen 
at table, what we thought of Boulanger. The Princess 
spoke most enthusiastically of him. The one man in 
France who could regenerate the country, and who would 
be supported by all parties. I said exactly the contrary, 
and that I thought his popularity and power very much 
exaggerated. Lord Hartington was rather amused at 
the two opinions so absolutely at variance. 

The Deichmanns came to see us the other day, just 
back from Berlin, and in despair over the Emperor. 
Deichmann said he came into the room with the same 
straight, soldierly bearing he had always had, and ex- 
cept that he was thinner, looked unchanged ; but he 
couldn't speak, and his friends fear the worst. He is 
worried too over the friction between the Empress and 
Bismarck — too such strong wills in conflict. 

London, 
April 26, 1888. 

I woncler if you are as cold as I am to-day. I have 
been driving about shivering in the open carriage and my 
seal-skin felt like a foulard. I think I got cold last night. 
We had a pleasant dinner at Lord Knutsford's. I had 



i888j A LONDON CRUSH 269 

Count Kufstein next to me. He was for years in Paris 
at the Austrian Embassy just when I was first married 
and making my debut in the official world. He is here 
now for the sugar conference, and we were delighted to 
go back to old times, as he knows everybody in Paris of 
all kinds : Imperialists, Royalists, and Republicans. It 
wasn't always easy for a foreigner to get along and not 
offend somebody. On our way home W. suggested that 
we should go in for a moment to the W. H. Smiths' who 
had a big political reception. In a weak moment I 
agreed. It is not really necessary to go to those big 
parties — one can be written down in the book by one of 
the secretaries, or give the names to the lady of the 
Morning Post who sits with her hat and coat behind 
the door, and puts down as many names as she can man- 
age. I should think she would have perpetual rheuma- 
tism, as the hall door is open and the draught something 
awful. The moment I set my foot in the hall my heart 
sank, such a crowd on the stairs, I should think all the 
House of Commons and all their female relations. There 
was a double current going and coming, and I was thank- 
ful not to have my dress torn to bits. We met Tom 
Leigh coming down. He said he had been 15 minutes 
on the same step. However we did manage to get up- 
stairs — tried to find either host or hostess, but they had 
evidently left the door — so after struggling through one 
or two rooms packed tight with people I discovered a 
high wooden stool behind one of the doors which had 
evidently been used for lighting the candles and been 
forgotten, so I seated myself on that and told W. I 
would wait for him there, as he thought he would 
try and find some one of the family. I sat there 
some little time rather interested in the stream of 
perfectly unknown faces which passed until I was 



270 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

rescued by Correa, the Brazilian Minister, who couldn't 
believe that it was really the French Ambassadress 
sitting alone on a three-legged stool behind the door. 
W. came back in about a quarter of an hour not 
having seen any one he knew, and then we started down 
the staircase where we had the same struggle, and the 
cold air blowing in upon my bare shoulders. I was cross 
when I got home — however I suppose exactly the same 
thing happens when we have a big reception, as the Em- 
bassy is not nearly large enough. The other night when 
the Duke of Cambridge dined with us we had a party 
afterward. W. went down to the door with him and 
never got up again, there was such a crowd on the stairs. 

To H. L. K. 

London, May 19, 1888. 

The season is animated enough and we are out every 
night (not all day, as so many people are, as we refuse 
all lunches and teas). Our music the other evening with 
Wolff, the young Dutch violinist, and Mdme. Kleeberg, 
was nice. We had invited only about 50 people, all musi- 
cal. Everyone could sit down (which the men appre- 
ciated, as they usually stand in the doorway all through 
the concert), and also we were not obliged to have those 
rows of gilt chairs which grate so on my nerves. I know 
the women hate it so when they are all seated in rows 
very close to each other and not a man anywhere near. 
Wolff played divinely, with so much tone and sentiment. 
He had a great success. Mdme. Kleeberg always plays 
beautifully. She is well known here and much liked. It 
was the first time Wolff had played in London, and he 
was a little nervous. 

Last night we dined with Lady Delawarr to meet 



A RECEPTION AND MUSIC 271 

Princess Louise and Lord Lome. The Princess is 
charming; a pretty, graceful figure and attractive man- 
ner, absolutely what the Italians would call "simpatica." 
Lord Lome took me to dinner, and I found him most 
entertaining and original. He talked a great deal about 
Canada and America, and certainly knows and appreciates 
"the States." He said if he hadn't been born the eldest 
son of an English Duke he would certainly emigrate to 
the West of America and pitch his tent there. 

There was a reception and music in the evening, Wolff 
playing beautifully, but, alas! no one listening. Lady 
Borthwick (who is a good musician) and I moved into 
the large drawing-room at his request when he began to 
play, and I really don't think anyone else scarcely listened, 
and certainly no one realised when, after playing a few 
moments under great difficulty (people coming and going 
and talking all the time) , he calmly laid his violin on the 
piano and stopped. He came up to me to explain, what 
I quite understood, that he could hear neither his own 
violin nor the accompaniment, and I could not urge him 
to continue. It is very hard on the artists, an evening 
like that. If they don't play well, everyone criticises ; and 
if they stop altogether, people think it is high-handed, 
and criticise equally. I have learnt now by experience 
and never invite many people when I have music. 

May 22, 1888. 

We had a pleasant evening last night at Sir Arthur 
Sullivan's who had a dinner for the Prince of Wales and 
the Duke and Duchess Paul of Mecklenburg. There 
were all kinds of artists — singing, reciting, and dancing. 
An American girl, with a very pretty voice, sang very 
well, and Letty Lind was charming. The Duchess Paul 
looked very pretty and chic, and was most amiable. The 



272 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

Prince is so nice to artists — always a gracious word and 
smile. Sullivan is an excellent host, and keeps every- 
thing going. Just as we arrived the electric light went 
out. I couldn't imagine why the house looked so dark 
as we drove up, for I knew the Prince was dining, and 
there was the red carpet which always indicates Royalty, 
so there could be no mistake, but the hall-door was open 
and lamps and candles being brought in from all quarters. 
We took off our cloaks in the dark, but in a very few 
minutes things w r ere put right, and the rooms brilliantly 
illuminated. W. never remains long on these occasions, 
but I stayed until the end, even for supper, which was 
very gay. 

London, May 24, 1888. 

My small musical tea for the Duchess Paul was very 
successful I think yesterday. I could not have Johannes 
Wolff, the violinist, which I regretted extremely. He 
plays quite beautifully, with so much "entrain" and senti- 
ment. I think I have already written to you about him, 
he is a Dutchman who was sent to me by Mdme. de Zuy- 
len (you remember Zuylen who was so long Dutch Min- 
ister in Paris). It was a little discouraging at first, there 
is such a tremendous concurrence in London, and Eng- 
lish people like to hear the same artists, whom they know 
well; Joachim, Sarasate, and Mdme. Neruda have it all 
their own way. However, I made a small party for him, 
all musical people, Lady Borthwick, Mrs. Ronalds, Tosti, 
Lord Lathom, etc., and he conquered his public at once. 
It was splendid playing and a style quite his own. We 
replaced him by Mdme. Le Valloit, who plays very well ; 
and had besides Picolellis (from Florence), who plays 
well (cello), and Carpe, the Italian baritone who has a 
big voice and sings in the Italian style. The audience 



GRIEG AND THE PRINCE 273 

listened pretty well at first, then came tea and the clatter 
of tea-cups in the blue room where all the jeunesse had 
congregated, talking and laughing and having their tea 
with a fine unconsciousness of the music going on in the 
next room. They are really very tiresome. That re- 
minds me of Grieg who was very "difficile," and who 
couldn't stand a sound when he was playing. He and his 
wife came to the Embassy one night and played and sang 
quite charmingly, and everybody was delighted. Quite 
at the last moment one of the Royalties talked a little 
while he was playing, and I saw the moment when he 
would get up from the piano. However, Wolff and I be- 
tween us managed to calm him. When it was over I told 
him what a success he had had — that the Prince had en- 
joyed his playing so much, to which he replied — "Ja, der 
hat es laut gesagt." 

Duchess Paul was very amiable, stayed until after 7 
and seemed to enjoy it; at least she listened and spoke 
very nicely to the artists afterward. I had just time to 
dress for a dinner at the Austrian Embassy. 

May 26, 1888. 

We dined to-night with our cousins the Ivor Herberts, 
a dinner for the Duke and Duchess Paul of Mecklenburg. 
We were asked for 8.15, and they never came until 9, 
looking quite unconcerned. I can't imagine how the 
cooks manage. Juteau tears his hair when we are so late, 
but he is getting accustomed to English hours now, and 
doesn't get ready himself until a quarter of an hour after 
the time fixed. We were a perfect bore to all our friends 
at first with our French punctuality, and arrived once or 
twice before the master of the house. W. consulted Lord 
Granville, who told him his rule was to leave his house 
at the hour named for the dinner; but as we dine sometimes 



274 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

around the corner, and sometimes at Kensington that is 
not always practical. People in Paris are very punctual 
and never wait more than a quarter of an hour for anyone. 
I remember quite well when I was first married, and my 
husband was a Cabinet Minister, being late for dinner at 
Comte Paul de Segur's. When we arrived they were at 
table. Among the guests was the Due d'Audifret-Pas- 
quier, President of the Senate — he had arrived in time 
and they wouldn't keep him waiting more than the "quart 
d'heure de grace." I was very much surprised, as after 
all my husband was a personage, but I must say I think 
the rule is a good one. I was next to the Duke and found 
him very pleasant. He is a brother of the Grand Duch- 
ess Wladimir, and he talked about the Coronation, and 
some of the curious, half barbaric ceremonies. He had 
been lunching at Sheen with the Comte de Paris, and was 
much impressed with the dull, sad look of the place. It 
does look gloomy, enclosed in high walls, such a contrast 
to Eu and the beautiful, bright sunny homes where the 
Orleans Princes spent their childish years. 

Albert Gate, May 30th. 
To-night we have a quiet evening, and are glad to have 
a chance to talk over Boulanger (who is coming here) 
and various troublesome questions. We dined last night 
with the Duchess of Westminster to meet Princess Mary 
and the Duke of Teck. The dinner was handsome and 
pleasant, and there was a small ball afterward. They 
danced in the picture gallery, a beautiful, large room, 
where the dresses and jewels showed to great advantage. 
We didn't stay very late as W. never dances, not even 
the regulation "Quadrille d'Honneur" at Court. He and 
Karolyi are the only diplomatists who never dance. 



A DINNER AT WHITE LODGE 275 



To H. L. K. 

London, June 5, 1888. 

Yesterday was a beautiful summer day, the ideal Sun- 
day of Bishop Keble — "The bridal of the earth and sky." 
We walked through the "Church Parade" coming back 
from Westminster. There were quantities of pretty girls 
dotted about the Park, looking so fresh and cool in their 
white dresses. I had various visits. Sunday is the man's 
day in London, and the afternoon is generally interesting. 
The Spanish Ambassador came in. He had been lunch- 
ing at Sheen with the Comte de Paris, and told me that 
the Prince asked him if he had seen his Collegue de 
France lately, and what he thought of the state of things 
in France, and particularly what he thought of Boulanger. 
I told him I didn't think the French Ambassador shared 
the Comte de Paris' enthusiasm for that hero,, but that 
he had better ask him. 

About 5.30 W. and I started for White Lodge, Rich- 
mond Park, to dine with Princess Mary and the Duke 
of Teck. We found quite a party assembled in the gar- 
den around a tea-table, the Princess making the tea 
herself, Princess May and some of the young ones help- 
ing. The talk was pleasant and easy, Princess Mary is 
a charming hostess and likes to talk (which is certainly 
not the case with all English women). She is very stout, 
but has a beautiful head and fine presence. Tosti and 
Picolellis dined, and played divinely after dinner. The 
evening was enchanting. We all sat in the big drawing- 
room opening on the garden. There was not much light, 
the moon shining through the trees, and the two artists 
playing as if inspired anything anyone asked for, from 
a Spohr sonata to an Italian canzonetta. I thought we 



276 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

should stay there all night — no one wanted to go home. 
The drive home was lovely, the London streets are so 
quiet Sunday night. 

June 6th. 

This morning was the great meet of the coaches, and 
our terrace of course is in great request as it gives di- 
rectly on the Park. It is always a pretty sight as every- 
one turns out. Lord Fife had the Prince of Wales with 
him, and the Princess was driving about with her three 
daughters in a victoria. The news of the German Em- 
peror is very bad. 

June ioth. 

This afternoon we had lovely music at Frank 
Schuster's. Both Wolff and Hollman played divinely. 
They are great rivals, both Dutchmen, and both great 
favourites (Hollman is 'cello). A trio with them and 
Mdme. Kleeberg at the piano is absolutely perfect. 

Our dinner at the Monks' was pleasant. I had Sir 
Rivers Wilson next to me, and he is a charming neigh- 
bour, has been everywhere, knows everybody, and talks 
easily without any pose. There was a concert in the 
evening — very good — Trebelli, Lloyd, Nordica, etc. I 
made acquaintance with Nordica, who is an American, 
Miss Norton, from Boston I think. She sings beauti- 
fully. I said to her (they were all talking hard between 
the songs), "What a noise ! Can you ever begin?" "Oh, 
certainly," she said, "I shall make much more noise than 
they do," and she was quite right. Her voice rang 
through the room. One of her songs was Delibes' 
"Filles de Cadiz," which she sang splendidly. 

June 1 2 th. 

This afternoon we have been sight-seeing. Jean came 
to breakfast, and we started off with Jusserand and St. 



THE PANORAMA OF NIAGARA 277 

Genys to see the Panorama of Niagara, which they say 
is extremely well done. I wanted the foreigners to have 
an idea of our great Falls, for I think in their hearts they 
were rather disposed to agree with a statement in one of 
the Swiss guide-books in speaking of the falls of the 
Rhine at Schaffhausen, "generally supposed to surpass 
the celebrated Falls of Niagara in America." However 
they were agreeably disappointed and were much pleased 
and interested. The Panorama is really very good. It 
is so many years since I have seen Niagara that I had 
forgotten how magnificent the Horse Shoe Fall is, and I 
almost expected to hear the roar of the cataract, and to 
see the little Indian boy selling moccasins and maple 
sugar. I wonder if I would like maple sugar now. One 
of my French friends, Mdme. Casimir Perier, to whom 
I offered as a great treat some American home-made gin- 
gerbread, could hardly swallow it, and assured me that 
I couldn't eat it either if it had not been a "souvenir d'en- 
fance." On leaving Niagara we went to the Aquarium 
to see a dog show. There were some fine specimens, 
but I didn't think any of the fox terriers as good as my 
Boniface. We also saw a swimming match, young ladies 
disporting themselves in the water in most wonderful 
costumes. Then to change our ideas we went into West- 
minster Abbey, just getting there for the end of the after- 
noon service. We heard the anthem, which was beauti- 
ful. It is such a good choir — some of the boys' voices 
divine, and they look like such little angels in their white 
surplices. A good many people were waiting to go 
round the Abbey at the end of the service, and we had 
some difficulty in getting away from the various guides 
who haunt the church and fall upon strangers. We 
wandered about with Jusserand for our cicerone. He 
knows everything about everything, and we had an in- 



278 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

teresting hour. Some of the old tombs are so curious. 
We got back to the Embassy for tea, having enjoyed our- 
selves immensely. I think in her heart Jean was rather 
shocked at the Aquarium performance — didn't think it 
was exactly the place for me — that was the reason I liked 
it, I suppose, I am so often now in the place where I 
ought to be. 

To H. L. K. 

London, 
June 12, 1888. 

It is beautiful again to-day. We had a nice canter 
in the Row. Everyone was talking about the German 
Emperor, and speculating over the future. There is a 
curious mistrust of the young Prince. No one seems 
to know exactly what he will do, and what will be his 
attitude toward England. This afternoon we have been 
out to Chiswick with the Florians, and Francis, to 
launch a torpilleur built for the French Navy by 
Thornycroft. We found Thornycroft and some of his 
friends waiting for us at the entrance of the dockyard. 
They took us to a platform covered with red cloth erected 
quite close to the boat — which was prettily dressed with 
flags — the men said her shape was wonderful (for a tor- 
pilleur, which never can be graceful). They gave me a 
bottle of champagne, and told me what to do. I flung 
the bottle as hard as I could against the stern of the boat, 
saying "Success to the 'Coureur.' " It broke into a thou- 
sand pieces, the champagne spattering all over my dress. 
We then adjourned to a summer-house overlooking the 
river for tea, and afterward went over the boat. There 
are accommodations (such as they are) for two officers 
and nine men, but it must be most uncomfortable, par- 
ticularly in rough weather. However, she was built for 



A DAY AT ASCOT 279 

speed, Thornycroft told us, and everything was sup- 
pressed that was not absolutely necessary. I hope she 
will make a good record. 

June 13th. 

Yesterday I decided quite suddenly to go to Ascot. It 
was a beautiful day, not too hot, and the Florians were 
quite ready to go with me. W. hates races and a long 
day in the country. We got down all right, hearing 
vague rumours on the way about the Emperor's death, 
but the Royal box was open, prepared evidently for the 
Princes, and there were quantities of people on the lawn. 
We were standing near the gate waiting to see the pro- 
cession appear, when suddenly Lord Coventry, Master 
of the Buckhounds, rode in alone. Instantly everyone 
said there must be bad news from the German Emperor 
(which was true). The Prince of Wales had a telegram, 
just as he was getting into his carriage, from the Queen, 
to say the news was very bad, and none of them must go 
to the races. Very soon some of the gentlemen of the 
Prince's party arrived, among others Karolyi, who said 
the Emperor was dying — dead probably at that moment. 
The Prince's servants and lunch were sent back as soon 
as possible (of course all their provisions and servants 
had been sent to Ascot, as they have a big lunch party 
there every day), so we all lunched with Lord Cov- 
entry. I went up after lunch to the top of the stand to 
see the race, and had the satisfaction of seeing the French 
horse come in an easy last. 

We went to tea with Lady Diana Huddleston, who has 
a pretty cottage close to the course, and sat under the 
trees some time. I had refused a dinner in London, and 
was in no hurry to get back. We quite expected to see 
the Emperor's death in the evening papers, but he seems 



280 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

to have rallied again a little. Poor man, how terrible it 
is the way he fights for his life — and he has known from 
the first, they say, that there was no hope. I am so 
sorry for her — she is so clever, so ambitious, and would 
have done so much for Germany. 

Woburn Abbey, 
June 15, 1888. 

We arrived here yesterday for tea. It had rained 
hard in the morning. W. and I were riding and were 
taking our usual quick canter at the far end of the Park 
(Marble Arch) when the storm began. We got home 
as fast as we could, but were dripping, both of us. The 
water poured off my hat like a shower-bath when I 
took it off. We had just time to get dry and dress be- 
fore starting for the station where we found the Duke's* 
regisseur waiting for us with a "wagon-salon." We 
had a short railway journey through pretty English 
village country; then a drive of half an hour brought 
us here. The Park is enormous, fine trees and beau- 
tifully green — such a rest after London smoke. The 
house is very large, with a great square court and 
corridors running all around it filled with family and 
historical pictures. The Duchess and her daughters 
were waiting for us in the morning room. We had 
tea and almost immediately went upstairs, as it was 
late. I have a charming big room with such views 
over the Park. There are always in these large houses 
lovely bits of old furniture, pictures, old china, etc. 
The dinner was handsome — quantities of gold and silver 
plate, and the table covered with azaleas. The Duke 
talked a great deal. He speaks French and German like 
a native (was brought up in Germany) and has the 

* The Duke of Bedford. 



i888] AT WOBURN ABBEY 281 

courteous, dignified manner of the old-fashioned English 
gentleman — a little stiff perhaps (they say people, even 
his children, are afraid of him), but I find him most at- 
tractive, particularly in these days when people haven't 
time apparently to be polite. The house party is small — 
Lord Tavistock , son of the house, with his handsome 
wife, Lady Ampthill, widow of Lord Ampthill (whom 
you will remember well as Odo Russell in Rome, and who 
was for years British Ambassador in Berlin). We saw 
him there when we stopped three or four days on our 
way to Moscow for the Coronation. They loved him in 
Berlin, just as they did in Rome. Do you remember how 
much put out all the women were there when his engage- 
ment was announced? Lady Ampthill looks sad, and is 
of course most anxious about the Emperor Frederick, and 
eager for news, she knew him and the Empress so well 
at Berlin. There is also Bohm, the sculptor, and one or 
two young men. The evening was short, everyone 
talking of course about the Emperor. The Duke says his 
death will be an immense loss to the whole world. The 
ladies came upstairs about 10.30 — the men went to the 
smoking-room. This morning it is showery — I didn't 
go down to breakfast, but about 12.30 I found my way 
to the drawing-room, and the Duchess showed me the 
house before lunch. It would take weeks to see all that 
is in it. The gallery that runs round the court is filled 
with portraits of Russells of every degree, also various 
Kings and Queens of England. There are splendid pict- 
ures all over the house — one drawing-room absolutely 
panelled with Canalettos. When we had been over the 
house we went into the garden to dedicate a fountain 
which Bohm had made, and also to see a full length 
statue of the Duchess which he had also just completed 
for the garden. I am very glad to know Bohm. He is 



282 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

intelligent and sympathetic, original too. He and W. 
had a long talk last night in the "fumoir," and it seems 
he was much struck with W. and said afterward to the 
Duke "Der weiss alles." 

After lunch, just as we were starting to have tea at 
Ampthill, we received two telegrams — one from the Em- 
bassy, and one from Deichmann — telling of the Emper- 
or's death at n this morning — so that long struggle is 
over. We drove over to Ampthill, and walked about in 
the garden with umbrellas and waterproofs, but of course 
the place looked triste and dark as there are great trees 
close to the house. There was a very good picture of 
Lord Ampthill in one of the drawing-rooms, and souve- 
nirs of their diplomatic life in every direction; signed 
photographs of all sorts of distinguished people — snuff- 
boxes, medals, etc. 

June i 6th. 

It is still grey and damp, but no rain. The Duchess 
took us for a beautiful g?'ass drive through miles of 
rhododendrons, quite enchanting — I have never seen 
anything like it; — but again the want of sunlight made 
a great difference. The contrast between the deep green 
of the lawn and the extraordinary amount and variety 
of colour was most striking. We left about 3 — imme- 
diately after lunch. I had quite a talk with the Duke 
while we were waiting for the carriage. He told me he 
had been so pleased to have had W. at his house and to 
hear him talk. He said — "I am not a Republican, but 
I must say that so long as the Republic finds men like 
him to serve her, there can be nothing better for France." 

London, June 24th. 
We all went to the funeral service for the Emperor 
Frederick this morning, all of us smothered in crepe with 



i888] DINNER AT THE MANSION HOUSE 283 

long crepe veils. It was precisely the same service over 
again as we had had for the old Emperor a few months 
ago. The heat was something awful — so many people — 
and it was very long. I dined in the evening at Hurling- 
ham with Sir Roderick Cameron, and that was nice; de- 
liriously cool, lights all about the place, and the Hun- 
garian band playing. 

To H. L. K. 

London, 
July 12, 1888. 

Last night I had a novel and most amusing experience. 
I went with Count and Countess de Florian (they are al- 
ways ready to do anything I want) to dine at the Mansion 
House. W. could not go. As soon as we arrived they 
roared out my name, or rather my official title — "Her Ex- 
cellency the French Ambassadress," and I walked alone 
(the Florians a little behind) up the great hall lined with 
people to where the Lord Mayor was standing, with his 
robes, chains, etc., a mace-bearer on one side, and a sort 
of trumpeter on the other. He stood quite still until I 
got close to him, then shook hands and asked my permis- 
sion to remove his robes (ermine). We then went in 
to dinner. The Lord Mayor and his wife sat side by 
side, and I was on his right. The dinner was fairly good 
(a regular banquet, 70 or 80 people), with music and 
speeches. I rather like the ceremony of the "loving cup." 
The cup was a handsome heavy gold tankard, with 
handles and a cover, and was brought first to the Lord 
Mayor. He rose — I did the same, and he asked me to 
take off the cover, which I did, and held it while he drank. 
Then he wiped the edge with his napkin, and passed it to 
me. The man next to me got up and held the cover 



284 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

while I drank. (The cup is very heavy and I had to 
take it with both hands.) The same ceremony was re- 
peated all around the enormous table, and it was a pretty 
and curious sight to see a couple always standing — the 
women in full dress and jewels standing out well be- 
tween the black coats of the men. It seems it is a very 
old custom, a remnant of rough feudal times, when the 
man drinking was obliged to have a friend standing next 
to him, to ward off a possible blow, his hands being occu- 
pied. I don't know what we drank — I should think a 
sort of hot spiced wine. Of course one just touches the 
edge of the cup. A wonderful man, in old-fashioned 
garb and a stentorian voice, stood always behind the Lord 
Mayor's chair, and called out all the names, toasts, etc. 
We went in afterward to Mrs. Oppenheim, who had a 
musical party — all the pretty women, and Mme. Nordica 
singing beautifully, with the orchestra of the Opera. 



London, 
July 14, 1888. 

I am rather tired to-night, but I think you must hear 
about the comedie while it is still fresh in my mind. It 
really went very well. We arranged a sort of rampe 
with flowers and ribbons (Thenard's suggestion) at the 
end of the ball-room, and made up the background with 
screens, curtains, etc. The little troupe had been well 
drilled by Thenard, who took a great deal of trouble, not 
only with their diction, but with their movements. At 
first they were always standing in a heap and tumbling 
over each other, or insisting upon turning their backs to 
the audience. "Ce n'est pas bien joli, ce que vous mon- 
trez au public, mes enfants," says Thenard. Here is the 
programme : — 



A FRENCH COMEDY 285 

AMBASSADE DE FRANCE A LONDRES 

Samedi, 14 Juillet, 1 888 



L'EDUCATION A LA MODE 

PAR BERQUIN 

MADAME VERTEUIL Mlle. Beatrice de Bunsen 

MADAME BEAUMONT Mlle. de Langhe 

LfiONORA, sa niece Lady Mary Pepys 

DIDIER, son neveu ) ,_ ■ 

„ ntTT1 ' ., „ , , }■ ..M. Francis Waddington 

M. DUPAS, Maitre de danse ) 

TRUETTE, soubrette Mlle. Cameron 



I was very proud of my little troupe. Beatrice looked 
very well and stately in powder, black satin, and lace. 
Mile, de Langhe and Daisy very well got up, and the two 
children charming. Lady Mary Pepys was too sweet, 
and they danced their minuet perfectly. There were roars 
of laughter when Francis appeared as "Maitre de 
Danse" with a white wig and his violin. The children 
were not at all shy, enjoyed themselves immensely. B. 
was a little "emue" at first when she saw how many 
people there were, but it didn't last and she was excel- 
lent, so perfectly correct, and unfrivolous, and boring. 
Francis said his little poetry, "Le bon Gite" of Deroulede, 
quite prettily. W. was rather surprised and quite pleased, 
and Thenard beamed, as she had coached him. She re- 
cites some of those "Chants du Soldat" of Deroulede's 
divinely. It is a perfect treat to hear her recite in her beau- 
tiful rich voice "Le Petit Clairon," also "La Fiancee du 
Timbalier," with an accompaniment of soft music. 

All the children (as we had invited Francis's young 
friends to see the performance) had tea together after- 
ward, and they wound up with a dance. The men of the 



286 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Aug. 

Embassy were much pleased, particularly Jusserand, who 
is rather "difficile." They complimented B. very much; 
said she spoke so distinctly and with very little accent. It 
was rather trying for her to play before all the Embassy 
and an ex-member of the Comedie Franchise. Francis's 
blue velvet coat and lace ruffles were very becoming to 
him. Wolff told him how to hold his violin, I wish you 
could have seen it. It was much prettier than the orig- 
inal little play at Bourneville, when we executed as well 
as we could a menuet. 

We had a very select public, among others Wyndham 
of the Criterion, who is an interesting man and a 
charming actor. When you come over I will take you 
to see his David Garrick, which I consider a perfect 
bit of acting. I wrote and asked him to "assister aux 
debuts d'un jeune collaborateur." The funny formal 
old-fashioned Berquin phrases amused him. He knows 
French well. 

London, August. 

We have decided to go to Scotland with Sir Roderick 
Cameron and his family, and are starting in a day or 
two. London is dull and empty, has suddenly become 
a deserted city. Even the shops are empty, and the 
Park a wilderness. All our colleagues have gone. I 
think W. is the only Ambassador in London, and he 
wants to get off to France and have a few days on the 
Aisne before he goes to the Conseil General. We means 
Francis and me for Scotland. 

To H. L. K. 

Inveraylort, 
August 17, 1888. 

I will try and give you an account of our journey, Dear. 
We arrived in this most lovely place for late dinner yes- 



i888] IN SCOTLAND 287 

terday, and went almost at once to bed, having begun our 
day at 7 o'clock. We left London Tuesday morning by 
the Flying Scotchman, and a tremendous pace we came. 
There were quantities of people at the station, all going 
apparently by our train — children, dogs, guns, fishing 
rods, provision baskets, tall footmen racing after dis- 
tracted French maids, and piles of luggage. We had our 
saloon carriage reserved (as we were a fair party — C, 
the four girls, Duncan, a friend Miss W., Francis and 
I and two or three maids). We had also a fair amount 
of baskets, shawls, cushions, etc. It was a lovely morn- 
ing, not too warm, and I think W., who came down to 
the station to see us off, was half sorry he was not 
going too. 

We stopped for luncheon at York, and got to Edin- 
burgh at 6.30. The pace was frightful, but we went so 
smoothly that one hardly realised the speed. We went 
straight to the hotel to see our rooms and order dinner, 
and then went out for a walk. The streets were 
crowded ; omnibuses and cabs with luggage in every di- 
rection. The old town and castle looked most pictu- 
resque in the soft summer light. Daisy and I went out 
again after dinner, and after loitering a little near the 
hotel we saw a tramcar, asked where it went, and 
mounted on the top, telling the man we would go as far 
as we could, and then come back. It was a beautiful 
moonlight night, and we were very cool and comfortable 
perched on the top of the car. When the man came to 
get the money for the places I discovered that I had no 
change — merely a sovereign. The old gentleman, a tall, 
white-bearded Scotchman, grumbled a good deal, and 
made various uncomplimentary remarks to himself in a 
low tone. However after some little time he appeared 
with a handful of silver. I took the money mechanically 



288 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Aug. 

and began to stuff it into my portemonnaie, as he looked 
at me severely and said — "First count your money to see 
that it is right, and then give me what you owe for your 
places." 

We were up early the next morning — breakfasted at 9 
o'clock as we wanted to see a little of Edinburgh before 
starting for Oban at 12 o'clock. It was an enchanting 
morning, not too warm, and we went first to the Castle. 
There is not much to see inside — always a beautiful view 
of sea and hills. There is a chapel and some old rooms 
which various Kings and Queens of Scotland have inhab- 
ited at various times. A company of Highlanders in 
Cameron plaids were being exercised in the courtyard, 
and a fine stalwart set of men they were. 

From there we drove through some of the old streets 
(Cannongate, etc.) to Holyrood, which was most inter- 
esting. The children of course were most anxious to see 
the spot where Rizzio was murdered, and the blood-stains 
on the floor, but they have disappeared years ago. We 
were delighted with the pictures. There are quantities 
of course of Mary, Queen of Scots — one large portrait 
with that beautiful, sad Stuart face — as if they all fore- 
saw their destinies. I had forgotten how small and low 
the rooms are. In these luxurious days no ordinary lady 
would be satisfied with Queen Mary's bedroom and bou- 
doir ; and the servants, accustomed to be quite as com- 
fortable as their masters, would give warning at once. 
We drove straight from the Palace to the station, where 
our carriage was waiting for us. All our wraps, 
cushions, etc., neatly arranged; and started for Oban, 
a most lovely journey, particularly all about Loch Awe. 
We got to Oban about 7, and I shall often think of that 
lovely evening. The harbour filled with yachts and sail- 
boats of all kinds — the water blue and dancing, and the 



TARTANS 289 

most divine soft pink lights on the hills, a little like what 
we used to love at Capri and Ischia — quite beautiful. 
Daisy and I did some shopping before dinner — bought 
clean collars for the children, who were decidedly the 
worse for the two days' journey, and we also interviewed 
the well-known Ewan at the tartan shop with a view 
to kilted skirts. D. found their tartan at once of course 
as there are so many Camerons — ours was rather more 
difficult as there are few Chisholms left (my Mother-in- 
law was born Chisholm) and the authorities in London 
told us we could certainly wear the family plaid. The 
shop people promised to get it for me. The man was 
much interested in the skirt for Miss W. Being an 
American there was no family tartan to be looked up, and 
she couldn't quite make up her mind. However he came 
to the rescue, telling her that "all the American ladies 
take the Royal Stuart, Miss." We had an excellent din- 
ner at the very small hotel where we were obliged to go — 
all the swell hotels were full — and there are quantities of 
people in the streets, and boats coming and going from 
the yachts. The Englishwomen all look so nice in their 
yachting dresses, almost all of dark blue serge and a sailor 
hat or regular yachting cap. The cap is rather trying, 
but the young and pretty women look charming in it. 
Some of the trippers and their ladies are wonderful to be- 
hold. We stood near a couple who were just starting 
for Skye on one of the steamers. The man was in a 
wonderful checked suit, and the lady in a brilliant red and 
green tartan (not unlike the Chisholm), on her head was 
a Scotch stalking cap, which was not becoming to a red, 
round face. However slie was satisfied and so was her 
companion, who looked at her most admiringly, saying — 
"I say, you are fetching in that cap." "II y en a pour 
tous les gouts." When we got back to the hotel we 



290 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Aug. 

found that Sir R. had quite changed our "itineraire." 
He had seen the boat, a fine large one which made the 
outside passage to Arishaig, so instead of taking the 
Caledonian Canal and landing at Fort William where 
carriages and carts were ordered for us, he decided that 
we should go by sea, and take our chance of finding some 
means of transport. He did, however, send a telegram 
to Arishaig, as the hotel man told him he would never 
find any conveyance for such a large party. 

We started at 9 o'clock, and the sail was enchanting. 
About 12 we ran rather close to a small headland, and 
the Captain told us we had arrived. Apparently we 
were in broad Atlantic with a rocky shore in the distance 
— however a boat appeared, one of those broad, flat boats 
which one sees all over in Scotland. Our disembarka- 
tion was difficult as we were 1 1 people with quantities of 
trunks and parcels. Happily the sea was quite smooth. 
All the passengers were wildly interested in the opera- 
tion and crowded to the side of the steamer. When all 
the party had finally got off with trunks, bags, a bird in 
a cage, and a kitten in a basket, one of the passengers re- 
marked — "They only need a pony in that boat, to make 
the party complete." 

To say we found a landing-place would be absolute 
fiction. As we neared the shore we saw a quantity of 
black, slippery rocks, and on these we landed, the boat- 
men holding the boat as near as they could, and we climb- 
ing, and slipping, and struggling to get on shore. Our 
baggage was dumped on the rocks and there we were — 
not a habitation or a creature in sight. At last we found 
a sort of house behind a mass of rocks, and saw several 
carriages in the distance which we supposed were for us. 
Not at all ! Sir R.'s telegram had not been received and 
those were carriages waiting for a "Corps" which was 



i888] ARISHAIG 291 

being conveyed across on a yacht. We tried to persuade 
them to take some of us at any rate, and at last with great 
difficulty one carriage was given to us. The negotia- 
tions were extremely difficult, as nobody spoke anything 
but Gaelic, except an old woman, and she was so cross 
and apparently so suspicious of the whole party that we 
got on better by signs and a few extra shillings. Sir R. 
and the maids walked (4 miles through lovely country) 
and we all finally arrived at the little fishing village of 
Arishaig, where there is a good inn. It is a little place, 
three or four fishermen's cottages, a post-office, and two 
churches, a large Roman Catholic Cathedral and a small 
Established Church. We had a good lunch and 
started at 3.30, getting here at 5.30. Such a beautiful 
drive — all blue sky, and heather almost as blue — and great 
grey mountains. We walked up two very steep hills, but 
had such glorious views at the top that we didn't mind the 
climb. 

This place is charming — the house fairly large. It 
stands low on the lake or arm of the sea, and has pine 
woods and high mountains behind. It is absolutely lonely 
— no houses near, except one or two (agent's and farm- 
er's) that belong to the estate. The country is lovely, 
wild and picturesque, but it would be a terrible place to 
be in except with a large party. There is nothing nearer 
than 10 miles, and no real village or settlement for 25. 
We are about half way between Fort William and Aris- 
haig (each 20 or 25 miles away). I think all our pro- 
visions come from Fort William. A stage passes twice 
a day, morning and evening. Our baggage arrived at 
10.30, and we were all glad to go to bed, as we had be- 
gun our day early. It is so still to-night — I am writing 
in my room — the lake looks beautiful in the moonlight, 
and there is not a sound. 



292 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Aug. 

Inveraylort, 
Sunday, August 19th. 

We have settled down most comfortably in the house, 
which is fairly large, but we are never indoors except to 
eat and sleep. We had a lovely drive yesterday all 
through this property, and to a neighbour's where there is 
a pillar to show where Prince Charlie landed. There are 
many Roman Catholics in these parts, which accounts for 
the large church in the little fishing village of Arishaig. 

This morning we had a service in the "Wash-house" 
— a red-headed Scotch peasant was the "Minister." It 
was a curious sort of independent service, impromptu 
prayers, and a long sermon. The congregation consisted 
of ourselves and the household. Miss Cameron, the 
owner of this place, who is staying at her agent's cottage 
on the place, some friends of hers, and the people of the 
little inn where the daily coach from Fort William stops 
for rest and luncheon. There are no other habitations of 
any kind except a few crofters' cottages across the lake. 
After luncheon we went for a long walk along the stream 
where there are plenty of fish, and came home over the 
hills. They are blue and deep purple, with heather, and 
there are divine views in every direction. 

Thursday, August 2 2d. 
It is again a beautiful day. We intended to row down 
to see some friends of Sir R.'s about 5 or 6 miles off 
at the mouth of the lake, where it runs into the sea, 
but there is some trouble about the boats. Our "pro- 
prietaire," Miss C, seems to have singular ideas as to the 
respective rights of owners and tenants. It was so fine 
and cool that we decided to walk, and the B.'s promised 
to send us back in their boat. It was long, but the path 
was not too steep all along the lake, and we arrived not 



i888] A CROFTER'S COTTAGE 293 

too exhausted. They gave us tea, showed us the house 
and garden, and we started back about 9. The row home 
was enchanting, but weird — not a thing to be seen of any- 
kind, except seals, which came up close to the boat. I 
had never seen one near, and thought at first they were 
dogs and was so surprised to see so many swimming 
about; not a sound except the splash of our oars in the 
water when we turned our backs to the sea, the heather- 
covered mountains shutting us in on all sides. It was 
quite wild and beautiful, but a solitude that would be 
appalling if one lived altogether in the country. 

Inveraylort, August 27th. 

After all they are not going to stay the month, Sir R. 
and his proprietor can't come to terms, and I think they 
will probably take a yacht and cruise about a little. The 
lake is decidedly rough this morning, but still we thought 
we must row across to some crofters' cottages. They 
told us they were of the poorest description, and we 
wanted to see what their life and houses were. Most 
wretched little houses (our horses much better off in their 
stables), generally one room, sometimes two; no floor, 
merely the earth trodden hard, and covered with straw. 
To-day it had been raining; there were puddles in the 
corners and the straw was decidedly damp. A peat fire 
was burning, and the only opening (no window) was 
a hole in the thatched roof, which lets the smoke out 
and the rain in. An old woman was spinning and an 
old man was sitting in the corner mending a fishing net. 
They were tall, gaunt figures — might be any age. They 
spoke nothing but Gaelic, but soon a young woman ap- 
peared on the scene who knew English. She looked as 
old as her mother, but had a keen, sharp face. I was 
rather interested in the spinning-wheel, so the two 



294 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Aug. 

women suggested that I should try; but I could do 
nothing. Either I went too fast and broke the yarn, 
or else the wheel remained absolutely motionless. I 
bought some yarn, as I had broken various bits, and 
then we started home, carrying away an impression of 
wretched poverty and hard lives of toil, with little to 
lighten the burden. 

Oban, August 29th. 

We are back here after a most eventful journey from 
Inveraylort. We started in the rain, the mist closing 
round us and blotting out the whole landscape. We had 
two carriages, but the pony cart came to grief, and the 
two girls and Francis were thrown out. Miss W. had 
an ugly cut on her face, but poor N. was lying on the 
ground, pale and suffering, convinced that her arm was 
broken. When we got up to them we took her into the 
waggonette and got on as quickly as we could to Caupar, 
our destination, where we had been told of a wonderful 
bone-setter who was well known in all these parts. He 
saw at once what was wrong — her shoulder was dislo- 
cated, and said she must not continue the journey, so 
we left her there with her sister and brother, and we 
came on here. They all appeared this afternoon — N. 
with her arm in a sling and looking fairly well. She 
said the man set it so quickly and gently she hardly had 
time to feel any pain. 

Oban, 
September 3d. 
We had a beautiful day yesterday for our excursion 
to Staffa and Iona. The sea was perfectly calm, and 
the lights and shades on the mountains enchanting. It 
was a lovely sail ; sometimes we ran into little shaded 
harbours with two or three cottages and a hotel perched 



i888] THE PARIS EXHIBITION 295 

high up on the top of a mountain, and sometimes passed 
so close to land under the great cliffs that one could 
throw a stone on the shore. The islands are most in- 
teresting, with their old churches and their curious stone 
crosses, and there were not too many people on the boat. 
The return was delicious as we sat on deck, watching all 
the colours fade away from sea and hills. 

We leave to-morrow for London and Paris, and I am 
very sorry to go. We have enjoyed our three weeks 
immensely. The country is so beautiful, and then it was 
a great pleasure to be with some of my own people; we 
have been away so long that the family ties get weaker. 
Francis was quite happy with some cousins to run about 
with. 

To G. K. S. 

Albert Gate, 
May 21, 1889. 

I got back from Paris last night, rather sorry to come. 
The weather was enchanting, warm and bright, and, of 
course, quantities of people for the Exhibition. It isn't 
half ready yet, but is most interesting — so much to see. 
I dined and breakfasted there several times at the vari- 
ous restaurants — one evening with the Walter Burns and 
a party, and we went afterward to see the "fontaines 
lumineuses," which are really fairy-like; but such a 
crowd. I also heard the two American prima donnas 
— Miss Eames, who is very handsome, has a fresh, 
young voice, and is an ideal Juliette. She is a vision 
really in her bridal dress as Juliette. Miss Sanderson 
is also very handsome, but in quite a different style. 
Her voice is very high and true; she was singing "Esclar- 
monde" at the Opera Comique. Massenet has taught 
her everything. I have found quantities of invitations 



296 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE 

here, in fact was obliged to come over, as we have ig 
dinner the day after to-morrow, and the Court ball. 

Tuesday, May 28, 1889. 
We had our first encounter with Boulanger this morn- 
ing. W. and I were walking our horses down the Row 
when we met three gentlemen cantering toward us. As 
they passed we heard they were speaking French, but 
didn't pay any particular attention. I merely said, "1 
wonder who those men are," one so rarely hears French 
spoken in the Row. A few minutes later we met Lord 
Charles Beresford, who took a little turn with us, and 
said to W., "The other distinguished Frenchman is also 
in the Row," — then we divined. A few moments after- 
ward (the Row is so small one crosses people all the 
time) we met them again, Boulanger in the middle rid- 
ing his famous black horse — a man on each side riding 
good horses, chestnuts. They all wore top-hats, which no 
Englishmen do now in the morning. The men all wear 
low hats, the women also, and covert coats, the girls 
cotton blouses; not at all the correct style we used to 
admire as children in Punch when those beautiful women 
of Leech's riding in the Park filled our childish hearts 
with envy. I was rather curious as to what w T ould hap- 
pen, as W. knows Boulanger slightly, and went to him 
when he was Minister of War about something concern- 
ing the military attache; however, there was no diffi- 
culty, as Boulanger was apparently too engrossed in 
conversation with his companions to notice anyone. I 
wonder if we shall meet him anywhere? They tell us 
that some of the society people mean to invite him, but I 
suppose they will scarcely ask us together. 



i88 9 ] A DRAWING-ROOM EPISODE 297 

Thursday, May 30th. 
Yesterday was the last Drawing-room of this season. 
I rather feel as if it were my last in London, but one 
never knows. We (Corps Diplomatique) were still all 
in black, the English in colours. It was long and tiring. 
We dined at Lord Sudeley's — I rather wishing I had no 
engagement. I am always tired after those hours of 
standing, and the diadem is heavy, and the train, too, 
held over one's arm; however, I was quite repaid, as I 
had a charming neighbour. I didn't know at all who 
he was, as they rarely introduce in England, so we em- 
barked on one of those banal, inane conversations one 
has with a stranger of whom one knows nothing, and 
were talking on smoothly about nothing at all, when he 
remarked, casually, "I suppose you never go to church." 
This I at once resented vehemently, so he explained that 
he didn't know, as I was a Frenchwoman, probably a 
Catholic (as if they didn't go to church), etc. He 
turned out to be Canon Rogers, a charming, intelligent, 
well-known man, most independent in his words and 
actions. He is rector of St. Botolph's, a church in 
Bishopsgate, the most disreputable part of London. We 
became great friends, and he asked me if I would go 
and lunch with him one Sunday, and he would show me 
Petticoat Lane. I agreed of course, and we decided for 
next Sunday. He said he had never had a French lady 
and an Ambassadress as a guest, and didn't quite know 
what to do. Should he ask the Prince of Wales and 
order champagne? I told him my tastes were very 
simple, and if I might bring my cousin Hilda, and one 
of the Secretaries, I should be quite happy — also I liked 
apple-pie, which he says his cook makes very well. I 
haven't had such a pleasant dinner for a long time. 



298 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

Monday, June 3d. 
We made our expedition to Bishopsgate yesterday, 
and most interesting it was. I went with Hilda and M. 
Lecomte, one of the secretaries, who knows English, and 
is very keen to see anything a little out of the way. We 
had a long drive to the church through the city, and 
arrived only to hear the end of Canon Rogers' sermon, 
which was strong and practical. As soon as the service 
was over we went down to the door and found him and 
his curate waiting for us. The first thing he did was 
to send away my carriage, which had already attracted 
much attention with the tall footman, velvet breeches, 
cockades, etc. He said he would never venture into 
Petticoat Lane in such an equipage, and would we please 
share his modest conveyance; so Hilda and I got into 
his victoria, and Lecomte and the curate walked close 
to the carriage behind. We had two policemen in front, 
two behind, and a detective. I rather demurred to such 
a display of municipal strength on my account, but he 
said it was necessary, he much preferred having them, 
he was afraid people would crowd around us and insist 
upon my buying something. The street was narrow, 
crowded with people, as there was also a fair going on 
and everything imaginable being sold (it is the one place 
in London where you can buy one shoe or one stocking!). 
The people were almost all Jews, and I must say they 
were a bad-looking lot, frightfully rough specimens. 
Some of the women, girls too, with such sullen, scowl- 
ing faces. We went at a foot's pace (the only carriage), 
and hadn't the slightest difficulty in making our way. 
Everyone knew Mr. Rogers and spoke to him — "Good 
morning, Governor," "God bless you, Sir." Two or 
three children ran up to him, one a pretty little dark-eyed 
girl breathless to tell him she was in church, though she 



i88 9 ] IN PETTICOAT LANE 299 

came late. He was so nice to them all, called them all by 
name, patted the children on the head, and exhorted some 
of the women to keep their husbands out of the drinking 
shops, and to wash their children's faces. They say he 
does an immense amount of good down there, but it must 
be uphill work. I have rarely seen such a forbidding 
looking set of people. Some of the women came up 
rather close to the low victoria and made comments on 
our garments. (We had dressed very simply at his 
request. I wore my blue foulard and a blue straw bonnet 
with iris on it. Hilda was in light grey with a black hat.) 
"You have got a beautiful bonnet, my lady. Oh, look at 
her umbrell!" The "umbrell" excited much attention. I 
couldn't think why at first, as it was also rather dark and 
plain; when I remembered that it had a watch in the 
handle upon which, of course, all eyes were fixed. I 
think the detective kept his eye upon it too, as he came 
up rather close on my side. The detective took Lecomte 
to a famous jeweller's shop near in Whitechapel, where 
there had been a murder some days ago. We drove all 
through the fair surrounded by these villainous faces 
(here and there a pretty, fair, innocent, childish face) and 
I wasn't sorry to get back to civilisation and the rectory, 
though I am very glad to have seen it. The rectory is a 
large old-fashioned house in Devonshire Square, shut in 
with high houses and high trees, and never, I should 
think, could a ray of sunshine get anywhere near it. 
One felt miles away from London and life of any kind. 
It was a curious contrast to the turbulent, noisy, seeth- 
ing crowd we had just left. We had a charming break- 
fast, Mr. Rogers talking all the time delightfully, so 
original and so earnest, convinced that everyone in their 
small circle could do so much to help, not only the poor 
but the really bad, if only by example and a little sym- 



300 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

pathy; he says no one ever helps the bad ones, only the 
deserving poor get looked after. 

About 3.30 we started again to see the People's Pal- 
ace, which he takes great interest in, and hopes he may 
succeed in keeping the men away from the drinking 
shops in the evening. It looked comfortable and prac- 
tical, the reading-room particularly, which is large and 
airy, with all sorts of morning and evening papers (some 
foreign ones), illustrated papers, and good, standard 
books. The librarian told me that Walter Scott was 
always asked for, also some American books, particu- 
larly Indian stories, and travels of all kinds. I was 
rather interested in hearing that, as whenever W. gives 
books to a school library, or prizes in France, Walter 
Scott or Fenimore Cooper are still the favourites (trans- 
lated, of course. I read the "Last of the Mohicans" 
in French, and it was very well done). There were not 
many people, but Mr. Rogers says on a fine, warm Sun- 
day, they all prefer to be in the open air. There is also 
a large swimming bath, given by Lord Rosebery. We 
parted from our host at the door, having had a delightful 
afternoon. It is a long time since I have heard anyone 
talk who interested me so much. 

The drive home along the Embankment was nice — 
quantities of people out, quite like a Sunday in France. 
We dined quietly at home. W. was much interested in 
my day. I think if he had known exactly where I was 
going, and that an escort of police was necessary, he 
wouldn't have agreed to the expedition. 

To H. L. K. 

Thursday, June 4, 1889. 
The Court Ball was brilliant last night. The Prince 
opened the ball with Princess Louise, and the Princess 



i88 9 ] THE SHAH OF PERSIA 301 

with Lord Fife. The engagement of Princess Louise of 
Wales to Lord Fife is just announced, and has of course 
created quite a sensation. Of course there are two cur- 
rents of opinion — the old-fashioned people are rather 
shocked at the idea of a Royal Princess marrying a sub- 
ject; but I fancy the entourage of the Prince and Prin- 
cess of Wales are pleased, — and Fife is a general favour- 
ite. It is not very easy for the English princesses to 
marry. They must marry Protestants, and there are not 
many Protestant princes who are not near relations. 

I talked a little to the Shah, but I didn't find that very 
amusing. He knows very little English or French, and 
has a most disagreeable way of looking hard at one. He 
planted himself directly in front of me, very close, and 
said "he thought he had seen me before," which of course 
he had, in Paris. , 

It seems that one of the Princesses pointed out to him, 
in the supper-room, a lady neither very young nor very 
beautiful, who was covered with splendid jewels, think- 
ing they might interest him. He stopped short in front 
of her — then turned his back at once, saying "monstre." 
They say he finds no woman handsome who has passed 
twenty. 

Tuesday, July 2d. 

It was a splendid summer day yesterday, ideal, for the 
Shah's arrival by water. We drove down to the Speak- 
er's to see him come. The streets were lined with troops, 
and there were quantities of people about. They let us 
drive through the Mall and to Westminster between the 
lines of soldiers (all the traffic was stopped). Almost 
all the houses and balconies on the way were draped with 
red, and crowded with women in their light, gay sum- 
mer dresses. There were a good many people at the 
Speaker's, who gave us some tea and strawberries. The 



302 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

Royal Barge arrived very punctually. It was not very 
beautiful — an ordinary river steamer, painted light grey, 
with gold lines, and fitted up with palms, red cushions, 
and carpets, etc. The Thames was a pretty sight, such 
quantities of boats of all kinds. We saw everything 
quite well. There was a fair procession of state carriages, 
and an escort of Life Guards; but what a barbarian the 
Shah looks, with his embroidered coat and his big jew- 
els, and his coarse, bad face — however he was smiling, 
and seemed pleased with his reception. 

We waited to let the crowd disperse a little, and then 
came home the same way through Constitution Hill. We 
met the Prince and Princess coming back from Bucking- 
ham Palace. Both looked very well — he in uniform, and 
she in white, extraordinarily young in face and figure. 
The two princes, Eddy and George, were with them, and 
they were much applauded as they passed. In the even- 
ing we had a musical party at Blumenthal's. The garden 
was lighted and everyone sitting outside. The party was 
in honour of Princess Louise, and the music very good, 
as it always is there. Mdme. Grondal, a Swedish woman, 
played beautifully, and Plunkett Greene sang very well. 
He always brings down the house with "I'm Off to Phil- 
adelphy in the Morning." Lord Lome took me to sup- 
per. I always like to talk to him. He was not much im- 
pressed with his Persian Majesty either — thought the 
days of Eastern potentates were over. I asked him what 
he had come for, and why the English were so civil to 
him; to which he replied, "Oh, I suppose some of the 
swells want concessions, or railways." 

Monday, July 8, 1889. 

We went to Hatfield this morning, where there was a 
luncheon party for the Shah. It was decidedly grey and 



LUNCHEON PARTY AT HATFIELD 303 

uncertain, in fact, raining a little when we started, and 
I looked once or twice at my creme linon trimmed with 
Valenciennes — but as I had ordered it especially for that 
occasion, I decided to wear it. I put on a long cloak for 
the train. The Hatfield parties are always very well ar- 
ranged — trains starting every ten minutes. It is hardly 
three-quarters of an hour from London. There were 
lots of people, and the short trajet passed quickly enough. 
All the women were looking at each other to see the 
dresses, as the weather was really bad. At Hatfield, one 
of Lord Salisbury's sons was at the station to receive the 
swells. I got separated in the crowd from W., so Lord 
Edward put me into a brougham, and asked me if I 
would take another Ambassador, as mine was missing 
for the moment. I agreed, of course, so Comte Hatz- 
feldt came with me. There was a large party staying in 
the house, including the Prince and Princess, the Shah, 
and various members of the family and Court. Lady 
Salisbury was standing at one of the big doors opening 
on the terrace. Lord Salisbury, she told me, was taking 
the Shah for a drive in the park. We all loitered about a 
little on the terrace. The rain had stopped and, though 
there was no sun, the house looked beautiful with its grey 
walls and splendid lines. The first person I saw was the 
Due d'Aumale, and we had quite a talk while waiting for 
luncheon. The Prince also came out and talked. Lunch- 
eon was served at small, round tables in the great dining- 
room. As Doyens we were at the Royal table. The 
Prince took me, and I had next to me the Grand Vizier, 
who had taken in Lady Londonderry. She is very hand- 
some, very well dressed, and the Grand Vizier enjoyed 
himself very much. It seems he is a very difficult gen- 
tleman, and at some man's house party, Ferdinand Roths- 
child's, I think, he was not pleased with his reception, 



304 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

or his place at the table, and declined to come downstairs. 
There were about 70 people at luncheon, and as many 
more, they told me, upstairs. Quantities of flowers, sil- 
ver, servants, etc., and a band playing. After breakfast 
we all adjourned to the terrace and some photographic 
groups were taken. There was some wonderful shooting 
by some Americans which interested the Persians very 
much, and one of the Shah's suite was most anxious to 
try his hand at it, and forcibly took a rifle from the 
American, who protested vigorously, but the Persian 
kept hold of his gun and evidently meant to shoot, so 
the American appealed directly to the Prince, saying 
there would be an accident if he was allowed to go on ; 
and the Prince interfered and persuaded the irate Orien- 
tal to give up his weapon. 

They had asked a great many people to tea, but evi- 
dently the rain had kept many away. The toilettes were 
most varied — every description of costume, from the 
Duchess of Rutland in white satin and diamonds (large 
stones sewed all over the body of her dress) to the 
simplest description of blue serge, covert coat, and even 
a waterproof carried over one's arm. I was thinking of 
going to get a cup of tea, when I crossed again the Due 
d'Aumale, who was also looking for the tea-table, so we 
went off together and had a pleasant "quart d'heure." 
He is always so nice to W. and me, and is so distin- 
guished-looking wherever he is — such extraordinary 
charm of manner and so soldierly. He had been much 
amused by the stories he had heard of the eccentricities 
of the Persian suite. One of the ladies staying in the 
house found two gentlemen sitting on her bed when she 
went up to dress for dinner. I must say I think it was 
awfully good of Lady Salisbury to ask them all to stay. 




Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the Shah of Persia, July, 8, 1889. 

The following are among- those in the picture : Prince of Wales: Lord Salisbury; Shah of 
Persia; Princess of Wales; Rustem, Turkish Ambassador ; Hatzfeldt, German Ambassador; 
Lord Halsbury, the Lord Chancellor; M. de Staal. Russian Ambassador; Due d'Aumale ; 
Countess of Cadogan ; M. Waddington, French Ambassador ; Madame Waddington ; Countess 
of Galloway; Duchess of Devonshire. 

From a photograph by Russell & Sons, London. 



i88 9 ] A ROYAL MARRIAGE 305 

Saturday, July 27th. 

Princess Louise of Wales and Fife were married this 
morning in the small chapel at Buckingham Palace. 
Very few people were asked, no diplomats except Falbe, 
Danish Minister, who is a great favourite at Court, and 
asked always. The streets, especially Piccadilly, were 
crowded with people. We had to go round by Belgrave 
Square and Buckingham Palace to get to Marlborough 
House. We were invited at 2 o'clock to see the bride 
and the presents. The wedding party drove up just as 
we arrived. Fife's coach, dark green with green and gold 
liveries, was very handsome. The Princess of Wales 
looked radiant, and the bride charming — beautifully 
dressed and just pale enough to be interesting. The 
King of Greece and Crown Prince of Denmark were both 
there. The presents were beautiful — every imaginable 
thing in diamonds and silver. The Prince and Princess's 
tiara very handsome — also Fife's. There was a buffet 
and tea in the garden, also in the drawing-rooms; and 
we waited to see the young couple start. They looked 
very happy and smiling. Their carriage was very hand- 
some, with four black horses and an outrider. Every- 
one cheered and threw rice after them. They started 
with a Royal escort, but at the top of the park Fife sent 
it back, and they made their entry into Sheen in his car- 
riage only. They said he made a condition that there 
should be no lady-in-waiting, that his wife should be 
Duchess of Fife only; but of course she can never lose 
her rank. None but Ambassadors were asked to the re- 
ception at Marlborough House — no other diplomats. 

July 30th. 

We had our last dinner this season — musical and all 
Italians, Tosti, Vinci, and Picolellis. Mme. de Florian 



306 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Jan. 

came in late with her dinner guests, among others the 
Duchesse de Richelieu, who is very fond of music. Tosti 
is delightful once he gets to the piano, sings (with no 
voice) and plays whatever one wants — his own music, 
anybody's, and always so simply. It was very warm. 
We all sat and stood on the balcony when we were not 
playing and singing. 

To G. K. S. 

Hatfield, January 8, 1891. 
We came down last night for dinner. It was very 
cold, snow and ice in London, and skating everywhere. 
We are not a very large party — the family, some of Lord 
Salisbury's secretaries, Casa Laiglesia (just made Am- 
bassador — very happy. Spain had only a Minister here 
till now), the Duke and Duchess of Newcastle, etc. After 
dinner the older members of the party played whist, and 
the young ones danced in the great hall. This time we 
have King James I.'s rooms, an enormous bed (with a 
Royal crown on the top) where he really slept. We 
have been out all day; the gentlemen went off early to 
shoot, and I got down about 12. I found some of the 
young women, Ladies Cranborne and Northcote, in the 
hall and we decided we would go and skate. It was bit- 
terly cold, but no wind, and the pond is not far, just at 
the end of the terrace. There was a little wooden house 
on the edge where we put on our skates, and plenty of 
chairs and canes. Ladies Northcote and Gwendoline 
Cecil skate very well. Lady Salisbury came down to the 
pond, took a broom from one of the numerous sweepers, 
and swept hard to keep herself warm. 'After lunch I 
went for a sleigh ride with Lady Salisbury in a pretty 
little one-horse sleigh she had bought at the Exhibition. 




Lord Salisbury. 
From a photograph by Lambert Weston & Son, Dover. 



i8 9 i] SKATING 307 

It was very good going in the park, but we bumped occa- 
sionally going across the fields. To-night we broke up 
rather early; we were all tired with the first day's skat- 
ing, and the men with their shooting. 

Friday. 

It has been again a beautiful winter's day, and we have 
skated all the afternoon until dark. Lady Salisbury came 
again with her broom and swept vigorously. It seems 
many doctors recommend sweeping now for women who 
need exercise and cannot ride or walk. We tried hard 
to make Casa Laiglesia come down to the pond, but he 
refused absolutely — that was not at all his idea of pleas- 
ure. We spent some time in the library looking over 
some of the old manuscripts of the time of Queen Eliza- 
beth and King Philip of Spain, and we saw him taking 
a short, very short turn on the terrace in the sun, 
wrapped up so as to be almost "meconnaissable." 

London, January 18th. 

It is still very cold — the Serpentine is quite frozen, 
and quantities of people skating. The ice is very bad, 
rather like a ploughed field, but it is amusing to see all 
the people. We have been this afternoon to Wimbledon, 
and there it was delightful. There was quite a large 
part reserved and beautifully smooth, belonging to a 
club; so Comte de St. Genys (one of the secretaries), 
who was with us, sent in his card, saying he was there 
with the French Ambassadress; and they were most 
civil, brought us chairs, and begged us to come back 
whenever we liked. We saw some beautiful fancy skat- 
ing, both men and women. We skated afterward a lit- 
tle on the big lake to see the people. It was a beautiful 
day, and a very pretty sight, quite like a Dutch picture. 

I was interrupted by a visit from Mr. Bryce. He 



308 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Feb. 

came really to ask about you and to know if you would 
stay on at Alassio. He spoke so warmly and admiringly 
of Schuyler that it was a pleasure to hear him. He said 
he was certainly the cleverest, most cultivated American 
he had ever seen, that he had never met anyone who 
knew so many things well. He couldn't conceive how 
any Government that had such a man to place could have 
let any party feeling prevent them from giving him a 
prominent place, in their own interest. 

Albert Gate, 
Thursday, February 19th. 

We have had a funny day. There was a sale of horses, 
hunters principally, at Cricklewood, a place just outside 
of London, where they have very good horses. We have 
been there several times with Deichmann, who has al- 
ways fine horses, and have bought two or three ourselves. 
I am looking for a saddle horse, so W. and I drove out 
the other day, and I tried two which I liked very much 
(there is a riding-school where one can try). Then 
Newman, the head man, rode them over some hurdles 
to show me how well they jumped. They promised to 
let us know when the sale would be, and yesterday sent 
word we must come to-day. I drove out with Hilda in 
her pony carriage. We drew up close to the ring and 
the auctioneer's stand and saw everything well. Her 
horses were taken out and we made ourselves as com- 
fortable as we could with furs and couvertures. It was 
bitterly cold, with a high wind that cut one in two. W. 
and Deichmann wandered about in the crowd. The col- 
lection of people was most amazing, horsey to a degree; 
horse dealers, trainers, jockeys, racing men and women 
— a few gentlemen here and there, not many. There 
was a champagne lunch going on at Newman's, but that 



i8 9 A SALE OF HORSES 3°9 

we declined — so they brought us tea and excellent bread 
and butter to the carriage. The two horses I had tried 
were among the first and I hoped I should get one of 
them, but they brought much more than the dealers sup- 
posed they would. They looked extremely well when 
they were brought out first, galloped over the grass, and 
then jumping their hurdles beautifully, taking them eas- 
ily in a long stride (of course they were beautifully han- 
dled, every point made the most of). W. made various 
bids, but when it got beyond a certain sum he wouldn't 
give any more, as it was a fancy price and could have 
gone up indefinitely. I was rather disappointed, as I had 
set my heart on the black horse. It was cold driving 
home in the teeth of the wind. We dined with the Deich- 
manns, with some of our colleagues, and everyone was 
discussing the Empress Frederick's visit to Versailles. 
Until then everything had gone most swimmingly, but 
of course all French people were "froisses" at that. I 
don't exactly understand her going. She is so intelli- 
gent, and had apparently realised quite well how diffi- 
cult it would be for her ever to go to Paris. Years ago 
in Rome, where we met her almost every night, she told 
us she was so anxious to go to Paris, but she was afraid 
she could not manage it. She wanted very much to meet 
Renan — admired his books so much, and his great intel- 
ligence ; and I think she would have been delighted with 
him. He was a charming talker on every subject, and 
so easy. 

To G. K. S. 

Albert Gate, 
Tuesday, March 10, 1891. 

We had an awful storm yesterday, a regular blizzard, 
and a terrible night in the Channel. One of the good 



310 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

boats, the Victoria, was out all night, not daring to land 
at either Dover or Calais. One of our young attaches 
was on board, bringing over despatches, and they say he 
looked green when he finally did arrive. The trains were 
snowed up everywhere, even between Folkestone and 
London, and the passengers nearly frozen and starved. 
It seems incredible in such a short distance. The young 
men are generally rather eager to bring over despatches, 
but I rather think this one won't try it again, in winter 
at any rate. I am extraordinarily lucky in my crossings, 
because probably I am a good sailor. I go backward and 
forward in all seasons and always have good weather. 
The Florians have had some wonderful crossings, nine 
hours between Calais and Dover, both of them tied in 
their chairs, and the chairs tied to the mast. 

Thursday, March 12, 1891. 
Yesterday we were at Windsor to dine and sleep. The 
party was small — Staal, the Russian Ambassador, Lord 
Hartington, Sir Frederick Leighton, Lord and Lady 
Curzon, Countess Perponcher and Count Seckendorff in 
attendance on the Empress Frederick, and of course the 
regular members of the Queen's Household. Lady An- 
trim was in waiting. We assembled as usual in the long 
corridor close to the door by which the Royal party en- 
tered. We were all in black, as the Empress was there. 
The Queen and the Empress came in together. The 
Queen shook hands with me and the two Ambassadors — 
the Empress with me only, bowing to the others. She is 
still in deep mourning — her dress black (woollen stuff 
of some kind) covered with crepe, and a crepe veil ar- 
ranged in a point, or sort of Mary Stuart cap, on the top 
of her head, and falling behind to the edge of her skirt. 
The corsage was a little open, and she had a splendid 



i8 9 i] DINNER AT WINDSOR 3^ 

necklace of pearls, also a miniature of the Emperor Fred- 
erick set in diamonds fastened on the front of her bodice. 
The dress was very becoming — she looked very stately 
and graceful as she walked through the corridor. She 
gave her arm to the Queen, and they walked in first to 
the dining-room, the Empress sitting next to the Queen 
on her right. W. followed with Princess Beatrice, sit- 
ting on the Queen's left; Staal with Princess Marga- 
retta, and sat on the right of the Empress. Lord Hart- 
ington took me. The Queen talked a great deal to W. 
— the Empress joined in occasionally. They were both 
much interested in the Protestants in France, and wanted 
to know if the feeling was as strong as in the old days 
of Huguenots and Catholics. I think there is a very 
strong feeling, and it is rare when a French Protestant 
marries a Catholic — rarer still when they become Catho- 
lics. 

The dinner is always quickly served, and the conver- 
sation nil. Nobody talks except those who are next the 
Princesses. The cercle was, as usual, in the corridor 
between the two doors. The Queen stood a little, but not 
all the time. She spoke to me about Johannes Wolff — 
admired his playing so much. The Empress talked a 
long time to W., and spoke immediately about her visit 
to Paris and Versailles, which was rather awkward for 
him, as he regretted very much that she had gone. All 
the first part of her stay went so well. She told W. 
she had had nothing but respect, and even sympathy 
wherever she had been, and that she was much as- 
tonished and distressed when she saw the papers and 
found what a storm was raging in the press. The 
Queen said a few words to me about the visit, and 
seemed to think it was a radical demonstration 
against the Government. I answered vaguely that all 



3i2 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

radicals made mischief — it wasn't a very easy sub- 
ject to discuss. The cercle was not very long — 
about three-quarters of an hour — and then the Court re- 
tired, the two Sovereigns going out as they came in, 
together. We finished the evening in the drawing-room, 
but broke up early. W. went off to smoke, and I had a 
nice hour in the beautiful little yellow salon. I had a 
splendid fire, quantities of candles (always my mania — 
I hate lamps, particularly in these days of petroleum), 
and was quite happy. Adelaide was very eloquent over 
the style of the housekeeper's room, and was funny over 
Charles, our French footman, and his indignation at 
being excluded from the society of the valets and ladies' 
maids. W.'s man was ill, so he took the French foot- 
man, who has often done his service. That gentleman 
being in livery was considered one of the lower servants 
(sat some way below the salt) and when the swells (Ade- 
laide, of course, included) retired to the housekeeper's 
room for dessert and coffee he remained with the under 
servants. All these domestic arrangements are quite un- 
heard of in France — any distinctions of that kind would 
set the whole establishment in a storm. 

It was a cold night, snow lying thick on the ground, 
clouds dark and low, and the great towers looked grim 
and formidable. W. came in about 12 — said the talk in 
the fumoir was pleasant. He likes Count Seckendorff 
very much, finds him intelligent and moderate and sensi- 
ble in his opinions — like all men who have knocked about 
a great deal and who know, not only other countries but 
the people of the country. After all, churches, and pal- 
aces, and picture galleries have a certain "resemblance," 
but people are different, and sometimes very interesting. 
We came away this morning at 10.30. I did not see 
anyone except Lady Antrim, as I never go to the dining- 



i8 9 i] SOCIAL DIVERSIONS 313 

room for breakfast. I was ready a little before the time, 
and wandered about the corridor a little, looking at all 
the pictures. I met Staal doing the same thing. There 
is so much to see. 

It is a beautiful bright day, and Hyde Park looked 
very animated as we drove through. Everyone was 
waiting to see the Queen pass. She arrived about an 
hour after us, as there is a Drawing-room to-morrow. 
We had some music this afternoon — 2 pianos, 8 hands — 
and we play rather well a splendid symphony of Brahms' 
— not at all easy. We dined with Mr. Henry Petre, one 
of the most soigne dinners in London. It is always 
pleasant at his house — they say it is because he is a bach- 
elor, which is not very flattering to us, but I think it is 
true, I don't know why. As we were out we went on, 
as they say here, to Lady Aberdeen, who had a small 
dance, but did not stay very long, as it was rather a 
young company. People always say there is nothing 
going on in London before the season, but we dine out 
every night and often have (I at least) something in the 
afternoon — a tea, or music. I don't believe anybody 
ever dines at home in London. The theatres are always 
crowded, quite as much as in Paris. Hilda and I went 
the other night with Count Seckendorff to see "Charlie's 
Aunt," a ridiculous farce which is having a great suc- 
cess. He protested at first at our choice — would have 
preferred something more classic, but he was perfectly 
amused (though protesting all the time). The piece is 
absolutely stupid, but so well played that the house was 
in roars of laughter, and that is always infectious. The 
man who played the part of the maiden aunt was extra- 
ordinarily well got up. His black silk dress and mittens 
were lovely — he looked really a prim old spinster and 
managed his skirts so well. 



3H LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [April 

Saturday, April 4, 1891. 

We lunched to-day with Ferdinand Rothschild to meet 
the Empress Frederick. We were a small party, prin- 
cipally Diplomatists. The Deyms, Hatzfeldt, Soveral, 
Harry Whites, etc. The Empress came (punctually) 
with Countess Perponcher and Seckendorff. The lunch 
was very handsome, quickly served and very animated, 
everybody talked. I had Hatzfeldt on the other side (I 
sat between him and Rothschild) so I was quite happy — 
there is nobody I like so much to talk to. He is very 
clever, very entrain, speaks French beautifully and talks 
about anything — just enough "moqueur" to keep one's 
wits sharpened. We had a discussion as to what was 
the origin of "Mrs. Grundy." None of us knew. I 
must ask Jusserand, who will I am sure be able to tell us. 

We were all dressed in black velvet, one would have 
thought it was a "mot d'ordre." The Empress is very 
easy and likes to talk. She asked me if I knew Derou- 
lede, said she heard some of his poetry was charming. I 
told her the "Chants du Soldat" were delightful, but / 
couldn't send them to her (they are all about the Franco- 
German War). One of the ladies, Mrs. White I think, 
said she would. 

Tuesday, April 21, 1891. 

We had a pleasant little dinner Sunday night for 
Wormser, the composer of "L'Enfant Prodigue," which 
has had an enormous success here. Wolff came too, and 
they played all the evening. I haven't seen the piece yet, 
so I was delighted to hear the music. I promised him I 
would go on Wednesday, my first free night. 

Last night I went with Lady Northcote to the Opera ; 
it was "Lohengrin" with Miss Eames and the Reszkes. 
The girl looked beautiful, quite the patrician maiden, 
and sang very well; a little cold, but that was of less 



i8 9 i] "REINE DES FEES" 315 

importance in that opera than in "Romeo and Juliet," 
which needs more passion. The house was very full and 
she was much applauded. Jean de Reszke looked mag- 
nificent and sang divinely. What a voice it is, and how 
well he knows how to use it. I fancy Covent Garden is 
a much better salle to sing in than our great Paris Opera. 
The voices seem so far off there, and all the singers com- 
plain and get soon tired. W. came in late just as I did. 
He had had a delightful dinner at Mr. Murray's (the 
publisher) with Mr. Gladstone. He said Mr. G. was in 
great form, talking about everything: books, politics, 
theories, and always with a perfect knowledge of each 
subject expressed in beautiful English. He must have a 
marvellous memory. 

To H. L. K. 

French Embassy, 
June 6, 1 89 1. 

You will be amused, Dear, to hear that after all we 
have decided to have the children's comedy. The mo- 
ment is not exactly propitious in the height of the Lon- 
don season when every instant is taken, but I think we 
can make something pretty, and Mdme. Thenard is very 
keen about it. We shall take the "Reine des Fees" — but 
very much changed, and parts added for every child — 
also a gavotte and a chorus. I saw some of the mam- 
mas, Countess Deym; Mdme. de Bille; Ladies London- 
derry, Clanwilliam, etc., yesterday, and they will let me 
have their daughters. Thenard will direct the whole 
thing, with Count de St. Genys (Secretary of the French 
Embassy in London) as regisseur and also decorateur, as 
he has begun painting a charming decor (the interior of 
the bailiff's cottage). Mdme. de Langhe will undertake 



316 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

the chceurs and lecons de diction, and I don't quite know 
yet whom we shall get for the gavotte, or how many 
children we must have. The dresses will be pretty — two 
sets — Marie Antoinette and all her ladies in powder — 
Trianon costumes — and peasants, market women, etc. 
Of course the boys are a difficulty. There are so few 
who are here of Francis's old friends — they are all at 
school. Thenard has a little friend (girl) whom she will 
dress as a Marquis — she says she will look the part very 
well. Francis is much excited — he is to be the cruel 
bailiff who takes all the money and everything else he 
can get from the poor peasants. St. Genys will see 
about his costume, and make a croquis from some picture 
of the period. 

June 12, 1891. 

We are all (except the Ambassador) perfectly taken up 
with the comedie — and to-day we had our first repeti- 
tion of the gavotte in the drawing-room. I hadn't 
thought of saying anything about the dancing to the 
young men, and it seems the "chancellerie" went nearly 
mad; their rooms being directly under the salons, they 
heard everything — the music beginning the same thing 
over and over again — and the heavy little feet that 
couldn't stay long on the tips of their toes. I had some 
trouble in finding a dancing-mistress — I thought first of 
the American who had that dancing class here where all 
the children went, but she didn't seem to understand ex- 
actly what I wanted. Finally some one told me I had 
much better send for Mrs. Roffy — ballet-mistress at the 
Alhambra — who has sometimes arranged menuets and 
gavottes for "les femmes du monde"; so I wrote to her 
to come and see me. She knew exactly what I wanted, 
would undertake the whole thing — how many children — 
what sort of a dance — was most business-like — and we 



i8 9 i] REHEARSALS 317 

fixed the first repetition at once. There were about 20 
children, of all ages and sizes, varying from 3 years to 
14 — Muriel White, Gay Edwardes and her brother, a 
little de Breunen, Elsa Deichmann, etc. Mrs. Roffy 
looked very nice. She is very tall, but rather graceful — 
she had a little black bag in which were her black silk 
stockings and pointed slippers, and asked if she might 
have a room to arrange herself — so Clarisse took charge 
of her. I took the piano — and most distracting it was — 
as no two of the children ever began their steps at the 
same time. It was amusing to> see Mrs. Roffy. She 
moved extraordinarily gracefully for such a tall woman, 
and was so patient — holding up her dress, pointing her 
toes, and talking to them all the time — "Heads up, 
Dears — Heads up ! Look at me — very proud, please." I 
should have given up in despair after a quarter of an 
hour. All the little arms and legs went at wrong times 
in wrong directions, and no one seemed to have the 
slightest idea of time. She will give one or two private 
lessons to some of the very small ones. 

Madame de Langhe, too, has her hands full with the 
chorus, "Vive la Reine" — but I think she must have some 
one behind the scenes to sing the solo, and then the 
children will come out strong in the chorus. The roles 
are all distributed — Bianca Deym — a tall handsome 
girl — is to be Marie Antoinette; and the various other 
Court ladies are Lady Helen Stewart (Lady London- 
derry's daughter), Lady J. Meade (Lady Clanwilliam's 
daughter), Marguerite Phelps, Anna Lawrence, Elsa de 
Bille, etc. I think it will be pretty. 

June 15, 1891. 

Hilda and I have been half over London to-day for 
our stage scenes. We must have real ones representing 
a sort of wood where the market people have their 



318 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

stands, and the Queen and the ladies come to buy flow- 
ers — also sufficient space for the gavotte. The man 
promises to send it all the day before, as the children 
must rehearse at least once with the real scenes — for their 
entrees — that is always a little difficulty. The bigger 
girls do all right, but the little ones rush in — speak very 
quickly — and always to Thenard, who stands at one 
side — looking hard at her to see if they are doing right — ■ 
and paying no attention whatever to Her Gracious Ma- 
jesty Queen Marie Antoinette. Muriel White is very 
good, very deliberate, very careful, and taking all the 
French nuances and intonations very well. Gay Ed- 
wardes, too, is very good — her French is pretty and easy, 
she learnt it so young in Paris. One of the others (I 
forget which one) was having a private lesson in a cor- 
ner with Francis, who was trying to make her roll her 
Rs in a proper French fashion. She had a complaint to 
make of her garden — all about "carottes" et "giroflees," 
and the sentences had a true British ring. Francis is 
very important, takes himself quite "au serieux," and is 
most interested in the proper diction of all the young 
ladies. I sat some time in the drawing-room while St. 
Genys was painting his scenes. We had various visitors 
(even W., who was very complimentary over the decor), 
tea, and Thenard to settle about a rampe of flowers and 
tapestry curtain. 

Saturday, June 20, 1891. 
I am rather lazy this morning and feel as if I had sud- 
denly nothing to do. The comedie went off very well 
yesterday and was a pretty sight. Until the last moment 
I was doubtful, as we had so many peripeties. At the 
dress rehearsal on Thursday, Bianca Deym (Marie An- 
toinette) was so hoarse she could hardly speak. The 



i8 9 i] THE PERFORMANCE 319 

girl looked very handsome and distinguished in powder 
(tres bien coiffee) and one of her mother's handsome 
Court dresses, but Thenard wouldn't let her speak 
— said all her part herself, and told Bianca to pay 
great attention to her voice and gestures. Toupet 
(Francis), the cruel bailiff, had such a stiff neck and sore 
throat that he could hardly move — so he was rubbed 
hard with Elliman's Embrocation and sent to bed as 
soon as the repetition was over. His costume was very 
good — coat and long waistcoat of prune cloth — lace 
jabot — tricorne and gold-headed cane lent by one of 
his English cousins — a wig of course — which quite 
changed him. The girls looked charming — I don't know 
which was the most becoming — the powder and Court 
dress or the short skirts and high caps of the paysannes. 
The gavotte went very well. The small children in 
front and the bigger ones behind. I never could have 
believed that anyone could evolve anything like a 
gavotte from the whirling chaos of arms and legs that 
was my first impression. M. Lecomte (Secretary of the 
Embassy), who is a very good musician, was at the piano, 
and marked the time very exactly, which was absolutely 
necessary for such young performers. 

Various friends and Mammas came to look on and 
criticise — which was what we wanted — and all were 
pleased. Thenard and St. Genys were quite delighted — 
and as they have seen it from the first and noted the 
improvement, that was reassuring. Henry Edwardes 
came, much amused and slightly astonished at his chil- 
dren's performance (the boy was so good). He told me 
he considered it quite remarkable. He offered to take 
charge of the green-room the day of the performance, 
and I accepted with pleasure, as I am sure the children 
will be rather excited and probably unruly. 



320 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE LJune 

I had a note from Miss Knollys while the repetition 
was going on saying that the Princess of Wales and her 
two daughters, Princesses Victoria and Maud, would be 
present on Friday at the performance. I announced this 
at once to my young troupe, and they were filled with 
pleasure and dismay at the appalling prospect of play- 
ing before Royalties. I went for a ride Friday morn- 
ing with Pontavice and when I came in was given a wild 
note from the Countess Deym saying that Bianca 
had a complete "extinction de voix" and what could 
be done. If someone else could take the part (which 
was impossible at such short notice) she would send 
all her daughter's dress, which was very handsome, or 
Bianca would come and look the part and Thenard do 
the talking from the coulisses. Of course I chose the 
latter, and sent off Clarisse at once to the Austrian Em- 
bassy with a remedy that Mdme. Richard of the Opera 
gave me. Francis was all right, his neck quite straight. 
After breakfast I had a last practice with him and Le- 
comte for the gavotte. I got in a small piano from Erard 
(my big one took up too much room behind the scenes) 
and then I dismissed the whole thing from my mind, and 
went to dress. I told the children to be there at 4.30 so 
as to begin the minute the Princess arrived. She said she 
would come at five. 

The little blue salon was a pretty sight when it was 
filled with all the children in costume. Thenard's Mar- 
quis looked too sweet — she had dressed the girl so well 
in satin coat, ruffles, and silk stockings, and enormous 
paste buckles on her shoes. She did her part perfectly — 
so easy, and such pretty French. The Princess came 
punctually with her two daughters, and the play began at 
once. I think there were about 100 people — we couldn't 
seat any more as the stage took up a good deal of 




Violet Freeman. Francis Waddington. 

A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy. 

From a Photograph by Barker & Pragnell, London. 



i8 9 i] AFTER THE PLAY 321 

room. The prettiest scenes were the Trianon and the 
Maiket Place. In the Trianon, Marie Antoinette was 
seated surrounded by her ladies, and le Marquis tell- 
ing them "les petites nouvelles de la cour." The child 
was killing when she took out her snuff-box and made 
flowery phrases. The Market was very well arranged 
with flowers and vegetables. Violet Freeman made a 
splendid old woman at one stall, and Hilda Deichmann 
did her boy's part very well. After the Queen had made 
her round (her voice came back, though she was rather 
hoarse still) she and her ladies retired a little to the 
background, where the Court made a brilliant group, 
while the peasants sang their chorus, "Vive la Reine." 
Then came the gavotte, which really went extremely 
well. Mrs. Roffy was breathless with recommendations 
until the last moment. Both chorus and gavotte were 
encored, and there was much applause when the curtain 
fell. 

The Princess, who is always so gracious, asked me 
what I would like her to do, so I said if she would allow 
the whole troupe to defile before her I would name each 
one — and I knew it would give them great pleasure. 
She agreed at once, so the procession, headed by Marie 
Antoinette, passed, and the Princess shook hands with 
every one, talking a little to those she knew. They all 
applauded when Toupet, with his wig and cane, appeared. 
Then I named Mdmes. Thenard and Roffy — and I wish 
you could have seen those ladies' curtseys (Mdme. Roffy's 
particularly splendid), also St. Genys and Lecomte. The 
whole thing lasted a short hour, even with the repeti- 
tion of chorus and gavotte. We had tea in the draw- 
ing-room — the children downstairs. The Princess told 
me she thought it charming — quite wonderful. The only 
two French children were Francis and the Marquis, but 



322 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

I must say I thought the others quite wonderful. When 
the Princess went away all the children assembled in the 
hall at the foot of the stairs, bowing and curtseying — 
and it was a pretty sight, such a mass of colour and 
flushed, eager little faces. The Princess told them all 
again how much she had enjoyed the performance, and 
it was quite a happy little crowd that dispersed soon 
afterward to their respective homes. W. complimented 
Thenard very much, who had given herself no end of 
trouble — also Mdme. de Langhe, who had undertaken 
the chorus. Some of the ladies were rather anxious we 
should repeat the performance for the benefit of some 
charity, but W. didn't like to have a paying thing at 
the Embassy; and at one of the public halls it would not 
have been very easy — some of the ladies objected. 

I dined at home, but went to a concert in the evening, 
and had various compliments for my troupe. The 
Prince of Wales told me that the Princess had told him 
it was quite charming. I think on the whole W. was 
pleased. He was rather doubtful about inviting the Prin- 
cess — thought it was a little informal, and would bore 
her, but I don't think it did. 

Tuesday, June 23, 1891. 

We have had various notices in the French papers of 
the comedie; generally "une bonne presse," but one or 
two of the very Republican papers expressed great sur- 
prise at such a Royalist Demonstration — couldn't imagine 
why we had chosen that particular chorus, "Vive la 
Reine," at an Embassy representing the French Re- 
public ! 

I am sorry you couldn't come over — all the repetitions 
would have amused you so much. Nothing was funnier 
than to see Francis always in a corner with some of the 



i8 9 i] THE GERMAN EMPEROR 3 2 3 

girls. Madame Campan (Elsa de Bille) had a long thing 
to say, and was most anxious to have the correct accent. 



To H. L. K. 

London, 

July 8, 1891. 

I dined quietly with some of the personnel last night, 
and had Thekla Staal, as her mother and father had gone 
to Windsor for the State banquet for the German Em- 
peror. Mdme. de Staal came in for a moment on her way 
home — she said it was very handsome, very well done, 
as it always is at Windsor, only they were all rather un- 
comfortable, as they went down from London by special 
train in full dress — diamonds and feathers — and when 
they arrived at the Castle they were asked to take off 
their wraps in the hall, no dressing-room of any kind 
provided. I don't know what my erratic hair would have 
looked like. Of course I couldn't go on account of my 
mourning. 

All London was on the "qui vive" this morning, as the 
German Emperor was to make his formal entry into Lon- 
don. I thought I wouldn't go in the carriage and take up 
a position, so Mrs. Edwardes suggested that I should go 
with her to Constitution Hill, where she had places, and 
see the Emperor pass there; so we started off on foot 
quite cheerfully, but as soon as we got outside the Park 
and wanted to cross the Square, we were confronted by 
lines of soldiers and policemen, who refused to let us pass. 
I explained who I was and that I was merely going to 
cross to Constitution Hill, but they evidently thought 
nothing of an Ambassadress in a simple black dress with 
neither equipage nor servants, and we were getting 
rather discouraged when I saw a Park-keeper who knew 



324 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

me, so he instantly went after one of the heads of the 
mounted police, who appeared, made way for us and ac- 
companied us (he riding) across the Square. Some of 
our friends, who were looking on from windows in the 
houses opposite, were rather anxious — thought we had 
been arrested. We waited a little while and very soon 
the head of the procession appeared. We made ourselves 
as small as we could and squeezed close up to the gate, 
but the Horse Guards on their big, black horses came 
unpleasantly near and the least plunge or kick would 
have been disastrous. The Royal carriage passed quite 
close to us at a quick trot. The Emperor looked very 
wide-awake and soldierly in blue dragoon uniform; the 
Empress, tall and fair, in white, was seated next to him ; 
the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Edinburgh on the 
front seat. There was not much enthusiasm, a few hats 
(not all) lifted. The Emperor saluted all the time, 
mechanically. When he saw me he leaned forward, 
smiled and bowed in evident recognition. I can't think 
how he knew me, standing there in a crowd of nursery- 
maids and children. He had seen me but twice before, 
and then in the evening in full dress. I suppose it is that 
extraordinary memory, instinct almost, that all Princes 
have, and which does them such good service. Every- 
one is pleased and flattered at being recognised by a Roy- 
alty. I was, too. just like all the rest. I wasn't mistaken 
in thinking he knew me. He told one of our secretaries 
at the reception at the Palace that he had seen Mdme. 
Waddington standing in the crowd. 

Hilda came to dinner with Countess Eulenbourg (wife 
of the Master of Ceremonies of the German Court) and 
her boy. They were very late, as the Countess had been 
to Buckingham Palace to see the Empress. She said the 
confusion was something awful. She had great difn- 



r8 9 i] RECEPTION FOR THE DIPLOMATS 325 

culty in getting in, was sent from pillar to post and 
finally the carriage was allowed to enter through the 
stable-yard. She was glad to have a quiet evening. Her 
husband was at the gala performance at the Opera with 
the Emperor and Empress. She spoke a great deal 
about the Emperor, said it was impossible to be with him 
without feeling what a strong personality he is; that what 
he felt was right and best for Germany he would certainly 
do — also that he would never shirk a responsibility, or 
put the blame on others if he made a mistake. It seems 
curious to be suddenly out of everything. W. is still in 
France* and of course our deep mourning makes all 
Court and gala things impossible for us. I think W. 
must come back before the Emperor goes and try to see 
him in a private audience, if nothing else can be arranged. 

Thursday, 9th. 

All the Corps Diplomatique were received this morn- 
ing at Buckingham Palace — the men by the Emperor, 
the women by the Empress. Hatzfeldt presented the 
men. In W.'s absence, d'Estournelles represented the 
Embassy (with all the secretaries of course). As he was 
only Charge d'Affaires, he could not take W.'s place as 
Doyen at the head of the row — on the contrary, was 
quite at the end; after all the Ministers of the small 
Powers — however they made a little group apart. The 
Emperor talked a little while to d'Estournelles — re- 
gretted very much not seeing W. — knew that he was still 
in France, and told him to tell me that he had recognised 
me at once in the Park. He said a few words to each 
member of the Embassy. The ladies were presented by 
Mdme. de Staal — my young women told me she did it 
very well, passing down the line with the Empress and 

* Where he had been summoned on account of the death of his mother. 



326 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

naming every one. They also found the Empress very 
gracious, saying something to each one — of course there 
is never any real conversation on such occasions, people 
are usually in a hurry and anxious to get through their 
function. 

This afternoon was the garden party at Marlborough 
House — Mdme. d'Estournelles and Florian came in af- 
terward to tell me about it; also Mme. de Bille (wife 
of the Danish Minister), she is an American, nee Za- 
briskie. They said there was a great crowd, and such a 
hedge of loyal subjects around the Royalties that it was 
almost impossible to see them even. Princess of Monaco 
(nee Heine), who was with the Court (her husband 
being a "prince regnant," of a minute principality cer- 
tainly), made a sign to Countess de Florian to come and 
speak to her, and she also had quite a talk with Princess 
Amelie of Schleswig Holstein, cousin of the German 
Emperor, whom she had known as a girl in Pau, when 
her father, Marquis de Nadaillac, was Prefet there. 
Staal came in late, and hopes that W. will come back 
(he is always such a good colleague). He thinks it will 
make a bad effect, the French Ambassador being the 
only one absent. He thinks he ought to come over 
for the breakfast at the Mansion House, which is strictly 
official, and where the Emperor will probably make a 
speech. I will write to him to-night and tell him what 
they all say. 

Friday, July ioth. 
I rode this morning with Pontavice, the Military At- 
tache, and just missed the Emperor, who was riding with 
six or seven officers, all in uniform, which seems strange, 
as the officers never wear uniform except when they are 
on duty. We sometimes see the officer of the day riding 



i8 9 i] FETES FOR WILLIAM II 327 

in the Row in uniform, but never any other. In Paris it 
is quite different; all the officers of the Paris garrison, 
which is a very large one, always ride in uniform in the 
Bois in the morning. I went to the War Office after- 
ward to see the Emperor, Empress, and Prince and 
Princess pass on their way to the Lord Mayor's banquet. 
The display of troops was rather mesquin — the Grena- 
diers standing so far apart that there were groups of 
street boys in between. The Royalties were fairly ap- 
plauded (the Prince and Princess are always whenever 
they appear). The Emperor was in a white uniform, 
but his helmet is so big and heavy and so low on his face 
that one could hardly see him. Francis and I dined 
quietly at the Russian Embassy, and the Staals told us 
all about the various fetes. They said the getting away 
from the Mansion House was awful — when the gentle- 
men of the household were trying to make a passage for 
the Princess of Wales there was a general skirmish, one 
of the ladies of the Corps Diplomatique was struck on 
the shoulder by one of the gentlemen, and there was a 
fine row — the husband of the lady furious, the unfort- 
unate equerry protesting, saying he was incapable of 
such an enormity, etc. However, excuses were made 
and peace restored. 

Saturday, July nth. 

I rode this morning with Pontavice, and we met the 
Emperor, also riding, several times ; but he did not recog- 
nise me this time in my habit. He had six or seven offi- 
cers with him and two grooms. All the officers, the 
Emperor also, in uniform, and wearing those long Ger- 
man sabres that hang loose and make a great clatter. 
They all rode at a gallop and set all the horses in the Row 
by the ears. I really had some trouble with my quiet ani- 



328 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

mal, who was jumping and kicking all over the place. I 
had several visits at tea-time. My windows and bal- 
conies giving on the Park are most attractive, as there 
are quantities of people about — a sort of general excite- 
ment in the air, and royal carriages and soldiers passing 
all the time. D'Estournelles came in and told me about 
the review. He said the troops looked splendid, but the 
arrangements were very bad — no seats reserved — he and 
his wife and many ladies standing all the time. Mme. 
d'Estournelles was dead tired and had gone home to bed. 
W. came back for dinner; he looks grave and sad. We 
sat on the balcony after dinner while he smoked. He 
said he must go to the luncheon at Hatfield for the Em- 
peror and Empress. As long as he was Ambassador, he 
had no right to let any private grief prevent his taking 
part in a public function, particularly in this case, when 
his absence might be misconstrued. 

Sunday, July 18th. 
I went this afternoon to consult some of my colleagues 
about my dress for Hatfield. Of course I am in deep 
mourning, and I didn't know if I could meet Royalties in 
black. At some Courts, Russia for instance, black is not 
allowed — when people are in mourning they wear white. 
After various consultations, I decided that I would go in 
my black dress; so I have had some lace put on top of 
the flounce of "crepon de laine," which is really very deep 
mourning. 

To H. L. K* 

Tuesday, July 19, 1891. 
We had a most interesting day at Hatfield, and evi- 
dently we were right in going. We went down by a 
special, W. in deep mourning, I in my black crepon, my 
big pearls in my ears and around my neck, a little crepe 



i8 9 i] THE EMPEROR AT HATFIELD 329 

bonnet (with a soupcon of jet) and an ordinary dotted 
tulle veil. All our colleagues were most empresses and 
nice — said it had been so strange not to see either of us 
at any of the fetes. There were, as usual, a certain num- 
ber of young men, sons of the house, secretaries, etc., at 
the station at Hatfield ; plenty of carriages, and in a few 
minutes we were at the house. We passed straight 
through the rooms to the terrace, where a very smart 
company was assembled. Some of the young women in 
white satin and lace, high bodices of course, all very 
much dressed, and all with necklaces and jewels on their 
corsages. No one in particular received us. Lady Salis- 
bury was driving with the Empress, Lord Salisbury talk- 
ing with the Prince of Wales, and the Emperor riding. 
(The Salisburys had an enormous house party, all ar- 
rived the night before for dinner — the Emperor-and Em- 
press with their suite, also the Prince and Princess and 
theirs.) I was strolling about the terrace with Countess 
Deym when we came suddenly upon the Princess of 
Wales, walking about with her "Kodak" and looking 
about 25 in her simple grey foulard and big black hat. 
As we went up to speak to her, she made us a sign to 
stop, saying "I want you in my picture." We talked to 
her a little while and then she said she must go and make 
herself "smart" for the lunch-party. There was still 
some time before there was any sign of Princes — or 
lunch. Mr. Barrington asked us to stand near the per- 
ron, as he had charge of the placing of the people. The 
Emperor and Empress appeared first, and immediately 
made a sort of cercle. Lady Salisbury presented me at 
once to the Empress, and she was most amiable, regretted 
not having seen me at the reception at Buckingham Pal- 
ace, adding, "J'ai vu toutes vos jeunes femmes, plus jolies 
les unes que les autres." The Emperor, too, was easy and 



33° LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

pleasant, but so many people were brought up to him all 
the time that he couldn't talk much. It was interesting 
to watch him. He was of course the central figure, and 
there is always a certain curiosity as to what he will do. 
He holds himself very straight, has a stern face and 
rather a stiff manner, not particularly gracious, speaks 
English of course perfectly well (in fact looks like an 
Englishman, particularly in ordinary dress — of course 
the uniform changes him a little). I think he knew about 
everybody who was presented to him; soldiers, states- 
men, artists, and seemed to be interested in the very short 
talks he had with each one. He and W. had quite a talk, 
and he again expressed his regret at not having seen him 
before, and also for the cause which had kept him away. 
The Prince and Princess stood about on the terrace while 
all the presentations were going on, talking to their 
friends. After about half an hour there was a move to 
the great dining-hall. I think there were about 150 
guests. The Royalties and swells lunched in the great 
hall at small tables of ten, and the others in the ordinary 
dining-room. I was at Lord Salisbury's table, who took 
in the Empress; the Prince took me; Hatzfeldt (German 
Ambassador) Mdme. de Staal; Rustem (Turkish Am- 
bassador) Princess Maud; Soveral (Portuguese Minis- 
ter) Countess Spencer. At Lady Salisbury's table were 
the Emperor, Princess, Staal, W., etc. The talk was 
fairly easy at our table — Hatzfeldt said to me rather 
pointedly, "Je suis tres heureux de vous voir ici aujourd'- 
hui, Madame Waddington." The Prince also said we 
were quite right to come. I said I thought my plain 
black dress was rather out of place at such a brilliant 
entertainment, but he assured me it was quite correct. 
About half way through luncheon came the pearl neck- 
lace incident (which you saw in the papers). I suddenly 



i8 9 i] AN INCIDENT 331 

felt that my necklace was unclasped. It was sewed on 
the corsage in front, as the pearls are large and heavy, 
and I am always afraid of breaking the string. I asked 
Soveral, who was next to me, if he couldn't clasp it for 
me. He tried, but was nervous or awkward ; at any rate 
couldn't manage it, and we were both getting red and 
flustered when suddenly we heard the Emperor from his 
table calling W.'s attention to the fact that "le Portugal 
etait en train d'etrangler la France" ; also Staal, saying 
that his "Collegue du Portugal se livrait a une gymnas- 
tique etrange." They all made various jokes at my ex- 
pense, and the Prince said "Let me do it," but he couldn't 
either, and again we heard the Emperor remarking, 
"Maintenant c'est plus serieux — l'Angleterre s'en mele." 
W., who had his back to me and who couldn't see what 
was going on, was decidedly mystified, and wondered 
what on earth I was doing to attract so much attention, 
in fact was rather annoyed. When we got up from table 
the Prince and I retreated to a corner of the terrace, and 
he cut the stitches that held the necklace in front with his 
knife (which again looked funny to the people assembled 
on the terrace). He advised me to put the pearls, not in 
my pocket, but in a safe place, as they were very hand- 
some, so I put them inside my dress. Of course every- 
body asked me what had happened, and what the Emper- 
or was saying to me from the other table. I asked the 
Empress if she was never afraid of losing her pearls, but 
she said all her jewels were most carefully sewn on and 
strung on a very thick string or sort of silk cord. 

Very soon after lunch the Emperor and Empress left, 
as they were starting in the evening for Germany, and 
had to go to Windsor to take leave of the Queen. The 
Prince and Princess followed quickly, and then, of course, 
all of us. W. had again a talk with the Emperor, and all 



332 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Jan. 

his colleagues told him he was quite right to come. Any 
little incident between France and Germany always as- 
sumes gigantic proportions, and the papers, both French 
and German, would have been full of the marked ab- 
sence of the French Ambassador from all the fetes for 
the Emperor ; his mourning a pretext, etc. It was a beau- 
tiful entertainment — bright, perfect summer day, quan- 
tities of pretty women beautifully dressed (a great many 
in white) and representative people of all kinds. The 
general impression was that the Emperor was not a 
lady's man — he evidently preferred talking to army and 
political men. My talk with him was so perfectly banal 
that I can scarcely have an opinion, but I should think 
one might talk to him easily. His face is certainly stern, 
and the manner very cold, but his smile, like the Queen's, 
lights up and softens the face. I said to one of the 
pretty young women who had made a luncheon-party for 
him, that I had heard that it was beautifully done, and 
that he was much pleased. She said she hoped he was, 
that as far as she personally was concerned he hadn't the 
slightest idea whether she was 25 or 50. 

To H. L. K. 

London, 
January 12, 1892. 

W. and I came over yesterday in a snowstorm. 
It was beastly getting out of the train and on the 
boat at Calais. I am rather depressed, having left Fran- 
cis behind at a professor's near the Lycee Janson, to 
follow the cours there as externe. I shall miss him 
frightfully, but it was quite time for him to go to France 
and go through the regular course. He was forgetting 
his French here. Of course he and his father always 



i8 92 ] THE DUKE OF CLARENCE 333 

speak French to each other, but he went to a little Eng- 
lish school, Miss Quirim's, in Sloane Street (where 
there were quantities of little friends beginning their edu- 
cation), played all day with English children, heard 
nothing else spoken around him, and was rapidly becom- 
ing an Englishman. The house seems dreadfully quiet 
without him, and poor little Bonny, the fox-terrier, is 
miserable. He couldn't think why he wasn't with us to- 
day on our journey and galloped up to his room as soon 
as he arrived at the Embassy, asking everybody really 
with his eyes where his master was. Florian came in at 
once to see us, and told us that the Duke of Clarence was 
frightfully ill at Sandringham. He always looked rather 
delicate, tall and slight and colourless, but I hope his 
youth will pull him through. He had been rather more 
en evidence these last months since his engagement to 
Princess May, daughter of Princess Mary, Duchess of 
Teck. I think it is a marriage that pleases the nation. 
Princess May is young and pretty, with a pretty figure 
and essentially English — born and brought up in the 
country. Everybody adores her mother, Princess Mary, 
and I think it will be a very happy marriage. 



January 13, 1892. 

I am afraid there is no chance for the poor young 
Prince. Florian came in for a moment, just back from 
Marlborough House, where the bulletins are posted twice 
a day. There were crowds of people reading them and 
trying to get some detailed information. Florian saw 
one of the equerries, who told him there was no hope, he 
was sinking fast and would probably not live through 
the night. He told him the Princess never left him and 
was heart-broken, her eldest boy. It is hard for her. 



334 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Jan. 

They seem to think it was a neglected cold, caught out 
shooting, and not taken in time. All the personnel came 
in to see me and brought their New Year's present — 4 
pretty corbeilles for bonbons. They always give me 
something New Year's Day and I am much pleased to 
have the souvenirs. I can hardly realise that we have 
been here nearly 9 years. We came in '83 and thought 
we should stay perhaps two years. I am so accustomed 
to the life now that I feel as if I had always spent half 
the year in England and the other half in France. I sup- 
pose I shall miss a great many things when we retire into 
private life, perhaps most of all the family life with all 
the personnel of the Embassy. We have had various 
changes, of course, but I generally pull well with them 
all, and I must say they are always ready to help me in 
every way. I haven't had too many women, which is 
pleasant ; women are much more complicated to deal with 
than men — there are always so many small jealousies 
and rivalries. 

Thursday, January 14, 1892. 
The poor young Duke is dead at 9 o'clock this morn- 
ing, in spite of all that tender nursing and skill could do. 
He had not strength to fight against the malady. It is 
awfully hard at his age and in his position; just now, 
too, when his marriage was so popular. Florian came 
at once to tell us, and said there was such a crowd outside 
Marlborough House that he could hardly get through 
into the court, where the policeman showed him the 
Prince of Wales's telegram, "All is over." We had 
various visits at tea-time ; Deym among others, who had 
done just what we did — sent telegrams to the Prince 
and Princess and the Tecks at Sandringham. He told 
me he had dined at White Lodge with the Tecks on 



1892] FUNERAL SERVICES 335 

Christmas Eve (for their Christmas tree) and that they 
were all so happy. Princess Mary took him upstairs and 
showed him all the presents — coupons of velvet, brocade, 
etc., for dresses, also the wedding dress, and said to him, 
"Je suis si heureuse que j'en ai peur." Poor thing; per- 
haps it was a presentiment. I am awfully sorry for them, 
for her perhaps more than for Princess May, who is 
young and must of course get over it, as youth happily 
is elastic and rebounds; but Princess Mary is different. 
She has her share of worries and disappointments, and 
she was so happy and proud of the marriage. It must 
be an awful blow to her. 

Sunday, January 19, 1892. 

I went to the little church behind the Embassy this 
morning and am very sorry now that I didn't go to St. 
Paul's, where there was a fine service — the organ playing 
the Dead March in Saul, and all the congregation 
standing, a good many women crying, all in black. 
It was impressive in the little church — everyone in black. 
There is a general mourning ordered for three weeks, 
and Court mourning for six (which is a shorter time 
than I thought). (I send on a sheet apart what I would 
like you to order for me. I have nothing black but my 
black satin evening dress, which fortunately is all black, 
no white, lace, or colour). They sang the funeral hymn 
"Labourer, thy work is o'er," the first time I had ever 
heard it, and beautiful it was; read the prayer for the 
"Royal Family in affliction," and one for the influenza — 
which surprised me, as I should not have thought the 
epidemic was bad enough for that. The sermon, of 
course, was all about Prince Eddie and the young life 
cut short. It was very simple and earnest and the con- 
gregation certainly felt and showed great sympathy. I 



336 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Jan. 

went for a short turn in the Park afterward and walked 
about a little with Henry Edwardes and his children. 
He is rather down, poor fellow, as his conge drags on 
and they seem in no hurry at the Foreign Office to give 
him another post. I believe he didn't get on very well 
with his last chief, and of course all chiefs are not com- 
modes, but equally of course when there comes a ques- 
tion the secretary is always in the wrong. Edwardes is 
very clever and cultivated. W. thinks him an excellent 
agent. In Paris he always knew what was going on, 
and knew so many people of all kinds. 

This afternoon I had my usual Sunday visits — princi- 
pally diplomatists this time, and all talking about Prince 
Eddie's funeral. It seems a pity they don't make a grand 
military funeral, the procession passing through London. 
There was such a striking outburst of sympathy and 
loyalty when his death was announced that the people 
would have been glad to associate themselves with the 
last rites. They don't invite all the Chefs de Mission to 
the funeral at Windsor (which also seems strange, Prince 
Eddie being the heir), merely those of the "Cours ap- 
parentees." That will take in Hatzfeldt, German Am- 
bassador; Staal. Russian; de Bille, Danish Minister; 
Gennadius, Greece; Soveral, Portugese; and Solvyns, 
Belgian. All the others go to a special service at St. 
James's Chapel, in uniform. 

Wednesday, January 20, 1892. 
To-day is the funeral. Our flag is half-mast, and all 
the windows shut in the drawing-rooms. It is mild 
and damp, but not cold. Mdme. de Florian and I have 
been driving about this afternoon to have an impres- 
sion of the streets. All the shops are shut, blinds down 
in all the houses, flags at half-mast, and everyone in 



i8 9 2] DAYS OF MOURNING 337 

black. Some of the hansom cab drivers with bits of 
black ribbon or stuff on their whips, and everybody looks 
grave. I can't help thinking it was a pity not to let the 
people participate in the mourning and feel they were 
taking some part. In these days of democracy one 
should take any chance of strengthening the feeling of 
loyalty. W. went off in uniform, with crepe on sleeve 
and sword hilt, at 3, to the service at the Chapel Royal, 
St. James's, which seems to have been rather mild. The 
diplomatists (4 Ambassadors), Chefs de Mission, were 
received by Mr. Eric Barrington, Lord Salisbury's secre- 
tary; Mr. Thomas Sanderson, and Colonel Chaine. 

W. dined in the evening with Hilda, to meet Count 
Seckendorff and Biilow, who had come over from Ger- 
many to the funeral. They said the service was very 
simple and impressive, and that the Prince of Wales and 
Prince George looked badly, the Prince of Wales much 
agitated. Seckendorff said he could just manage to speak 
to them when they all filed past him after the ceremony. 
The Princesses were all in the chapel in a sort of gallery. 
Quite at the end the Prince stepped forward and laid a 
white wreath (given by Princess May) on the coffin. 

Saturday, January 30, 1892. 
It is still very mild and damp, rather dismal weather, 
and the streets are depressing, everyone in black — the 
mourning is very general, not at all confined to the fash- 
ionable world. Mdme. de Florian and I drove out to 
White Lodge, and cheerless it looked, so lonely and sad 
with the black winter trees all around the house. We 
did not see either of the Princesses ; they were in London, 
but Teck came out to speak to us. I never saw him ap- 
pear so well — he was so simple and distressed for his 
daughter. He said she was very quiet, but perfectly 



338 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Feb. 

heart-broken, and that he had always had a presentiment 
that something would happen — everything had gone too 
smoothly. He said the coming back there after the 
funeral was something too awful — all the wedding pres- 
ents and stuffs and laces scattered about the rooms — let- 
ters and telegrams of congratulation, bouquets of white 
flowers, in fact all the preparations for a wedding; and 
at the same time people waiting to try on mourning — 
telegrams of condolence, etc. What a tragedy ! He said 
he had no hope from the first. Prince Eddie was struck 
down at once, and he didn't think the Princess of Wales 
ever had a gleam of hope. She never left her boy until 
all was over. 

To G. K. S. 

Wednesday, February 10, 1892. 

I went as usual to have tea with the Countess de 
Bylandt this afternoon, who receives always Wednesday. 
She always has plenty of people and one has a pleasant 
hour. She was worried about her husband to-day, who is 
ill. He is not very young and I should think has always 
been delicate. He is Dutch Minister, and has been here 
for years. She is a Russian born, very clever and amusing. 
We dined with Baron Gevers, Dutch Secretary, at the 
new restaurant or club, l'Amphytrion, which is supposed 
to be the best and dearest in London. It is kept by Emile, 
a well-known Parisian. We were a young party, the 
Florians, St. Genys, and the Lataings (Belgian Lega- 
tion). The dinner was excellent, certainly — Emile knew 
that his Ambassador was coming and had done his best. 
He was always hovering about the table to see that all 
was right, and we complimented him very much on the 
way everything was cooked and served. I said to him 



is 9 2] IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM 339 

that he had very good material in London to work upon, 
to which he replied, with magnificent contempt for any- 
thing that was not French — "II n'y a pas de marche a 
Londres, je fais venir tout de Paris." When one thinks 
of Covent Garden, with its piles of splendid salmon, 
haunches of venison, hot-house fruits, grapes, pine- 
apples, and primeurs of all kinds, the answer was amus- 
ing. We went upstairs for coffee and cigarettes and had 
a very pleasant evening. It is so good for W. to be 
with young people occasionally. He talked a great deal, 
and the young men were interested in some of his Cam- 
bridge reminiscences. 

Thursday, February 11, 1892. 
It is still quite mild. After breakfast I went with 
Hilda to the British Museum to hear a young Oxonian 
lady lecture on Greek Antiquities and the Eleusinian 
Mysteries. She did it very easily — a pretty, cultivated 
voice and very distinct pronunciation. The lecture lasted 
about an hour. She had all sorts of photographs of bas- 
reliefs, statues, paintings, etc., and it was very interest- 
ing, much more so than I expected, as Greek antiquities 
are not much in my line. After the lecture was over, 
Mr. Thomson, the director of the Museum (a charming 
man), came to get us and showed us as much as we 
could see before 4, when it gets dark and the Museum is 
shut. The reading-room and library are enormous, and 
for London very light. The collection of missals, auto- 
graphs, etc., is splendid. Some of the old, old missals 
so beautiful still, the colours so wonderfully preserved. 
We went to Mr. Thomson's room in the Museum build- 
ing for tea. His daughter was there and gave us very 
good tea and muffins. Altogether we had a most interest- 
ing afternoon. We dined with Mrs. Mitford (widow of 



34° LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Feb. 

Percy Mitford, diplomatist). She has a very pretty and 
original house and is a very easy hostess, having lived 
much abroad. She is a great friend of Princess Mary and 
told me I ought to go and see her. Mr. Lincoln, the 
American Minister, was there, and we all teased him 
about the Presidential election (the papers say he is to be 
the next President). Mdme. de Bille and I told him we 
were racking our brains to think what we could ask him 
for our friends at home when he would be at the White 
House. He assured us there was no possible chance of 
it, and no one w T ould be as sorry as he himself if ever the 
thing came to pass. It certainly would be difficult to be 
a second President Lincoln. 

Friday, February 19, 1892. 

It is still very cold, snow lying on the ground (in 
the parks), which is rare in London. I have just had 
a little note from Princess Mary, asking me to come and 
see her on Sunday at White Lodge, as she leaves early 
in the week for the Riviera. Wolff came in late to ask 
me if I would take him out to White Lodge, as Princess 
Mary had also written to him to come. He had his vio- 
lin, so he played for about an hour, and most enchanting 
it was. I occasionally forgot about the accompaniment, 
listening to his beautiful long notes. He didn't mind, 
was standing in the middle of the room (playing by 
heart) and went on quite serenely until I caught him up 
somewhere and went on again. I dined quietly with 
Jean (as W. had a man's dinner at one of the clubs) 
and we made music all the evening. She is very busy 
translating a German book, Lady Blennerhasset's "Life 
of Madame de Stael." It looked easy at first, but I fancy 
is rather a formidable undertaking, as Lady B. has a very 
distinct style — very German, and I should think it must 



i8 9 2] A VISIT TO WHITE LODGE 341 

lose in translation. She had rather come to grief over 
one page. I looked over it, and said I didn't find it very 
difficult, and I know German well, upon which she re- 
plied, "Please read it out to me, then, in good English." 
I began, but came to grief at once. I had got the mean- 
ing right enough in my head, but couldn't at all express 
it at once in correct or fluent English, and I don't know 
that a dictionary would have helped me much. It was 
more the turn of the phrase and a peculiar form of ex- 
pression. 

Sunday, February 21, 1892. 

It is very mild to-day — a complete thaw. Wolff came 
to breakfast, also Mdme. de Florian, and we drove out to 
White Lodge for tea. It was pleasant enough driving, 
as there was no wind, but the park and place looked 
dreary. I had always seen it so gay, with so many young 
people about, that I could hardly realise that it was the 
same house. We were expected — two or three footmen 
in deep mourning were at the door and took us at once 
to the drawing-room. In a few minutes the three ap- 
peared: father, mother, and daughter. I was rather 
nervous, but they were so natural, it was such real grief, 
that we felt quite at our ease, and so sorry for them all. 
Princess May looked lovely. She has grown much thin- 
ner, and the long black dress covered with crepe, with 
the white collar and cuffs (that all widows wear in Eng- 
land), was most becoming. Her complexion was beau- 
tiful, so delicate, and her eyes had that peculiar bright 
look that one sees in people who have cried a great deal. 
Before tea I had a long talk with Princess Mary, who 
said that it all seemed a dream — the first days at White 
Lodge, when the young couple were so happy, making 
all sorts of plans, for their future seemed so bright and 



342 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Feb. 

brilliant; so convinced that long years of happiness and 
usefulness were before them that she was frightened 
sometimes, and used to tell them that there would be great 
cares and responsibilities in their position, and that they 
must both help each other as much as they could (she 
said Prince Eddie was naturally timid, and rather dis- 
posed to underrate his intelligence). Then came the 
sudden change. Those terrible days at Sandringham, 
where she hoped against hope, and then the coming back 
to White Lodge, which must have been heart-breaking. 
I only said a few words to Princess May as we were 
going away, but Mdme. de Florian had some talk with 
her. She said she felt stunned — could hardly believe that 
all was over, but that she must try and take up her life 
again. "It will be very hard; I suppose I was too happy." 

They are starting at once for the South, and I hope it 
will do her good. Various people came in, among others 
Mrs. Mitford, who is a devoted friend of the Tecks, and 
so sorry for them. She said it was melancholy to see 
them the first days after they got back to White Lodge. 
All the presents had to be put away or sent back ; all the 
letters and telegrams sorted and put away, and that 
Princess May moved about like a ghost. 

We had a quiet evening until some late telegrams came 
announcing a Ministerial crisis in France, for nothing 
apparently. W. and his secretaries were disgusted. 
There are so many changes in France, and we never 
know who is coming to the Foreign Office. I think it 
is time for us to go back. We have been away a long 
time, and it isn't good for a man to live too much out 
of his own country. 



i892] "VENICE" AT THE OLYMPIA 343 

Albert Gate, 
Wednesday, February 24, 1892. 

It is very cold and foggy this morning, impossible to 
ride; we see all the grooms exercising the saddle horses 
in the Park. I went for tea as usual to Mdme. de Bylandt. 
He is still in his bed, and very bad I imagine. This even- 
ing we have been to "Venice," the great show at Olympia. 
We went a family party (Embassy), Florians, St. Genys, 
Pontavice, d'Agoult. It is really very prettily done ; you 
must see it when you come over. We had a capital box 
directly in the centre of the house, but the director, hear- 
ing we were there, came to pay us a visit, and transferred 
us to the Royal box, which is very large and comfortable 
— seats twenty people easily. He sent us some ices, and 
said he would have two gondolas waiting at the end of 
the performance to take us through the lagoons. The 
performance was a sort of ballet — very pretty girls well 
got up in Venetian costume, very artistically grouped, 
and quantities of colour. As soon as it was over we 
went down to the "Canal," where we found two gon- 
dolas, the real thing, with Venetian gondoliers, who were 
much pleased when I spoke Italian to them. We went 
all around the show, passing under the Bridge of Sighs, 
and finally wound up at a Neapolitan cafe, where they 
were playing and singing all the well-known Italian 
songs, "Santa Lucia," "Bella Napoli," etc. Florian of 
course found a friend, one of the singers, who recognised 
him, having seen him in Rome when she was singing 
there; so of course we all fraternised, and we stayed 
there some time listening to all the familiar songs and 
accompaniment of guitar and mandoline. We had quite 
the impression of having spent our evening in Italy. W. 
was much amused when we told him of Florian's "con- 
naissance," as he always says he knows more people than 



344 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

anyone he has ever seen, and is related to half France. 
He is always going to some cousin's funeral in Paris. 
French people are so particular about funerals — never 
fail to pay that last respect to their dead friends; also 
wear mourning much more than we do. They are con- 
stantly in real mourning (not merely fancy black) for 
three weeks or a month, for a very distant cousin. 

Albert Gate, 
Monday, March 9, 1892. 

It is cold and snowing, not a very pleasant day for 
our excursion to Herkomer's studio, in the country ; how- 
ever, I had a line from Hilda saying they were quite 
willing to go if I didn't mind the weather, so I consulted 
with Lecomte, one of the secretaries who was going with 
us, and we thought we would go. It would be very diffi- 
cult for me to find another day, as London is filling up 
for its avant-saison, and we have quantities of engage- 
ments. We met the Deichmanns at the station, and there 
discovered that we had 40 minutes to wait, so we break- 
fasted there in the big dining-room, and it wasn't bad 
at all. Deichmann knows everybody and is well known 
at Euston — so thanks to him we had a really excellent 
breakfast (and it turned out very well, as we only got 
to Herkomer's for tea, and we should have been half 
starved). We had about three-quarters of an hour by rail 
to our destination, Bushey, in the county of Herts. It 
was bright and beautiful when we got to the station, but 
the trees were white with frost and snow everywhere. 
We found our host in a temporary installation. He is 
building himself an enormous castle, and all the work, 
stone-cutting, wood-carving, painting, etc., is done on the 
spot by his pupils, Herkomer himself superintending and 
directing everything. He is most interesting; full of all 



1892] AN EVENING AT WILHELMFS 345 

sorts of knowledge and fancies. We went over the stu- 
dios and saw everything. Some dull red wood they were 
using came from America he told me — I forget the 
name of the tree, I think a Californian. It would have 
amused you to see the eager, intelligent faces of the 
young workmen, especially when Herkomer was going 
about explaining his ideas and criticising or encouraging. 
It reminded me rather of an evening at Wilhelmj's (the 
great violinist) long ago in Germany. He had a villa 
near my sister-in-law's, Mdme. Charles de Bunsen, at 
Mosbach, near Biebrich-am-Rhein. We all went over 
there one night to a musical party when I was staying 
with my sister. His house was most artistically ar- 
ranged, all "Alt Deutsch," with an enormous music- 
room. He was waiting for us there surrounded by all 
his pupils, about 10, with their violins and music-stands, 
and all looking so eager and anxious to begin. He 
played himself quite beautifully, and when he was accom- 
panied by all the others it was a very pretty sight, he in 
the middle and all the young ones around him with their 
eyes fixed on him. He was one of Wagner's right-hand 
men and played often with him. They played among 
other things the prelude of "Parsifal," which haunted 
me for days afterward. You can't imagine anything 
more divine than those beautiful long notes of his and 
the soft arpeggio accompaniments of the violins. I 
couldn't hear anything else afterward. Someone asked 
him to play Schubert's "Ave Maria," which he did of 
course beautifully, but it sounded so tame after the other, 
which I told him; but he said I was quite wrong, that 
Schubert had written beautiful things, so melodious. All 
the same, I would have preferred remaining with the 
impression of that wonderful prelude. What reminded 
me of all this was the same sort of cadre — "Maitre et 



346 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

apprentis," for Herkomer is quite the old-fashioned em- 
bodiment of the "Master" with his pupils. We had tea 
in the studio, where there were some fine portraits. I 
think I like his men better than his women. It is so dif- 
ficult to make an interesting picture of a man in ordinary 
everyday dress. Herkomer has certainly succeeded in 
making some wonderful pictures, without uniform, or 
costume, or colour of any kind to appeal to the imagina- 
tion. We got back late for dinner. I was rather tired 
and cold after my long day — we had started early, and I 
persuaded W. with some difficulty to go to Lord Salis- 
bury's reception without me. However, he rather en- 
joyed himself. He didn't get much farther than the 
door, where he remained talking with Lady Salisbury, 
which he always likes. I don't think he was away more 
than an hour. 

Albert Gate, 
March 28, 1892. 

We had a nice canter this morning. There were a 
good many people out. We had a pleasant dinner last 
night at Lady Winifred Gardner's, one of those curious 
mixtures one only sees in London. The Brownlows, 
Lord Carrington, Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone, Hare the 
actor and his wife, also various stray men. I found Mr. 
and Mrs. Gladstone both much changed — much older — 
but he is marvellous — talked, eat, and drank like a man 
of 50. Hare talked a great deal, and a great deal to W., 
who found him clever and original. 

Wednesday, 30th. 

Well, my Dear, I opened my bazaar yesterday, and you 
will be surprised to hear that I was rather nervous — only 
for one moment, I must say, when they asked me, after 



i8 9 2] A CHARITY BAZAAR 347 

one or two speeches and a little "Marseillaise," if I would 
pronounce the sacramental phrase and declare the bazaar 
open. I, with the committee, was seated in a red chair 
on the platform. When I got up (the only person stand- 
ing) and saw the crowd of faces beneath me looking 
hard at me, for a moment I was shy, but that didn't last. 
They all cheered me, so I recovered myself and made my 
statement, I think in a clear voice. W. jibed at me well 
afterward when I told him. I made a tour of the bazaar, 
buying something at each stall, Lecomte bringing up the 
rear, carrying a large doll. Do you remember what Las- 
teyrie used to say when he was W.'s Chef de Cabinet at 
lTnstruction Publique — that one of his principal func- 
tions was to accompany Madame Waddington to all the 
"Ventes de Charite" carrying a "paquet de chemises de 
femme," which means that I get so tired of all the fancy 
boxes, and pin-cushions, and screens I accumulate at the 
various sales that I finally asked for "layettes" and "vete- 
ments de pauvres." Of course I can never have too 
many in the country. I was amused to hear one of my 
friends here who collects for the numerous "guilds" di- 
late upon the smallness of the objects sent her. She says 
she receives dresses and "brassieres" (a sort of body 
with sleeves) that would go on no child of any age that 
she has ever seen. It is rather my own experience — 
people usually give me very minute garments, also in the 
most delicate colours, and my children work in the fields 
and at the "tourbieres." 

After we had visited all the stalls we had tea (not in 
a private room) at a round table at one end of the hall 
near the buffet. M. Dupoutet de la Harpe, the Protes- 
tant pasteur who got up the bazaar, explaining that the 
people would so like to see us. I am always very dressy 
on those occasions, so I was dressed in black satin with 



348 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

a great deal of jet, and light blue feathers in my bonnet. 
I had just time to get home, have some tea, and see that 
my "orgue Mustel" had arrived and was properly placed 
and tuned to go with the piano, and to assist at a small 
rehearsal with M. Guillemain (organist at La Trinite 
in Paris), for whom I am having a dinner to-night, Me- 
rindol, and Miss Stuart, an American girl who has a fine 
voice. The "orgue Mustel" is small and looks like a 
harmonium, but it has wonderful tones, particularly 
when played by a master hand like Guillemain's. 

My dinner interested me very much — I hope the guests 
had the same impression. I called it my "dinner of or- 
ganists," and I tried to get as many of the great English 
organists as possible, but only two came (the notice was 
short), Dr. Stainer of St. Paul's and Dr. Bridge of 
Westminster Abbey. Both have splendid instruments, 
and it is a great pleasure to stay sometimes after a week- 
day service and hear a fugue rolling through those great 
vaulted aisles. I had only asked musical people, and 
warned them that it was serious. We were 24 at dinner, 
and about 100 in the evening. The music was in the 
ballroom and the organ sounded very well, quite a vol- 
ume of sound. Guillemain played, of course, beautifully 
and made it give all it could. The duos, organ and piano, 
were charming. Miss Stuart sang very well. I found 
Dr. Bridge most sympathetic. He and Florence Will- 
iams made great friends, and he promised to play her a 
gavotte whenever she likes if she would dance. I think 
you would have liked the evening — it wasn't banal. Staal 
was sympathetic and interested, and asked me what was 
the next original entertainment I was contemplating. 



i8 9 2] RIVER LIFE 349 

Wednesday, 31st. 

We have rather a worrying letter from Henrietta this 
morning saying their house in Paris was watched by the 
police, having been threatened by the dynamiters on ac- 
count of a judge who lives in the house. All the loca- 
taires are leaving, and she is bothered, and wants to 
know what she must do with Francis (who always goes 
to her Thursday and Sunday). I want W. to write to 
the Prefet de Police to ask for an extra man, but he 
doesn't seem to attach importance to it — says no harm 
ever comes when a thing is announced beforehand. I 
can't help feeling uncomfortable. 



To G. K. S. 

Albert Gate, 
April 3, 1892. 

It is rather nice to-day. After breakfast we drove 
down to Battersea Park, not a very fashionable resort, 
and walked about along the river, which is always alive 
— boats, barges, steamers, children in battered old scows 
that look as if they would break in two on the smallest 
provocation, and loungers of all kinds, some fishing, 
most doing nothing and keeping up a running fire of chaff 
and criticisms. The river life plays a great part in Lon- 
don — the Thames is such a thoroughfare all about Lon- 
don, and a beautiful pleasure ground higher up by Maid- 
enhead, Clieveden, etc. We dined this evening at Lady 
Mary Lloyd's. She sang very well after dinner, and 
we went later to Lady Ashburton's, who has a beautiful 
house crammed with pictures and curios of all kinds. 
She had a concert of "old music" with old instruments 
— spinet, viola, viol d'amour, etc. It was interesting in 



350 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [April 

its way as a souvenir, but sounded weak and tinkly. In 
these days of great orchestras no one would listen to it. 

Easter Tuesday, April 19, 1892. 
I am delighted to have Henrietta and Francis, the 
boy's first holidays since he has been in Paris, and he is 
enjoying himself extremely. He rides with his father 
every morning, and goes about all day with his friends. 
We are busy getting up a "toy symphony" — Mile. Levi- 
sohn, Francis's piano mistress, organises it. Francis has 
the piano, Comte Vinci, our Roman friend (who plays 
extremely well), is first violin; a little boy, a friend of 
Mile. Levisohn's, the 2nd, and the minor instruments are 
distributed among all the children, Edwardes, Lawrence, 
Billes, Deichmann, etc. We gave young Bille, son of 
the Danish Minister, the drum — but the unfortunate boy 
could do nothing with it, and his mother said he must 
have some lessons. I applied to Pontavice (our Military 
Attache), who said he was sure one of his friends, an 
officer in the Guards, would arrange it for me, so accord- 
ingly there appeared one morning a gentleman (Mr. 
Lloyd, I think) who said his friend, Comte de Pontavice, 
had told him that I wished to have some lessons on the 
drum, and that the drum-major of the regiment was 
quite at my service. I hastily explained that the lessons 
were not for me, but for a young friend who was to 
play that instrument in a toy symphony. He didn't 
seem at all surprised at my wishing to learn to play the 
drum, and yet I can't help thinking that he hadn't often 
been applied to for lessons on the drum for an Am- 
bassadress. He promised to send his man to the Dan- 
ish Legation, and Mdme. de Bille told me that all the 
household was upset, and the maids distracted by the 
magnificent drum-major who came three or four times, 



i8 9 2] A TOY SYMPHONY 351 

and retired to a sort of basement, where he and the boy 
rattled away on the drum. If I had ever imagined what 
an undertaking it was, I never should have agreed to 
the performance. The principal instruments, piano and 
violins, were all right, but all the small ones, quails, 
nightingales, and cuckoos (oh, the cuckoos!) were some- 
thing awful. The children distracted (sometimes they 
had 25 measures to count), the mammas and governesses 
equally so, and the impartial assistants (who had no chil- 
dren taking part) remarking to me with absolute frank- 
ness that it was the most awful noise they had ever heard. 
Comte Vinci, first violin, was a tower of strength, and 
kept them all in order. It is awfully good of him to come 
and play with all those children. 

Friday, April 22, 1892. 

I will write you about the performance at once, as I 
am too tired to do anything else, and have dined quietly 
at home. We had a last repetition this morning — Mile. 
Levisohn directing from a small platform covered with 
red cloth. For the first time I thought it would go — 
really almost all the instruments were in tune and in 
time. Francis had been giving private rehearsals all the 
morning to Wilhelm Deichmann (trumpet) and the 
child, I forget which one, that had the triangle. The 
performance began at 4, and the orchestra was most 
effective. All the young ladies were in white and the 
men in dress clothes and white boutonnieres. It was 
killing to see all eyes fixed upon Mile. Levisohn as she 
stood on her platform with her baton raised. It really 
went extremely well. Pfeffer happened in, and said he 
had never heard the Romberg Symphony better given. 
After the music was over Francis and Hilda Deichmann 
played a little comedy, "La Souris," really very well — 



352 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [April 

Mdme. Thenard had coached them both. They weren't 
at all shy, and looked funny perched on chairs, standing, 
afraid of an imaginary mouse. They wound up with a 
dance, Gevers leading a most spirited cotillon. Francis 
danced with Nannie, who looked very pretty. He was 
very proud of his American cousin. Mile. Levisohn had 
many compliments, and I think she was pleased. She 
certainly took no end of trouble. 

Albert Gate, 
Thursday, April 28th. 

I had a nice ride this morning with Pontavice. W. 
and Francis went off on Monday — W. to Laon and 
Francis to school. Last night Henrietta and I went to 
the Italian Embassy, where there was a contract party 
for Tornielli's niece, who is to marry the Marquis Pau- 
lucci, one of the secretaries. The fiancee looked charm- 
ing in pink satin, with a very pretty diamond tiara that 
her uncle had given her. There were a great many 
people. I had the Camerons with me — Nannie looking 
very pretty and chic in red satin with gold wings in 
her hair. I told her the dress was much too old and 
heavy for her, she should have been in white tulle, with 
nothing in her hair, but she says all the American girls 
wear satin. The Tornielli entertainments are always 
handsome; their full dress livery red is so effective. 
Henrietta and I have been driving about shopping. I 
never go near a shop alone, but Mrs. Edwardes told us 
there were wonderful "occasions"" for silks at Marshall 
& Snelgrove's. We did pick up several things not dear. 
The English, shops are not at all like the French ones. 



1892] MAY-DAY IN LONDON 353 

To H. L. K. 

French Embassy, London, 
May 1, 1892. 

It is very cold to-day, and I think generally is on the 
1st of May. One can't imagine a Queen of the May, 
crowned with flowers, dancing around a May-Pole. We 
are rather shivering, with a good fire in the room. It is 
true that we have been sitting for some time at the win- 
dow looking at the crowds of people pouring into the 
Park for their great demonstration (anti-capitalist). It 
seems to be all going quite quietly — there are processions, 
and banners, and brass bands (such horrors), the usual 
thing, and I am sure there will be no row and that noth- 
ing will happen — nothing ever does happen in England. 

The Salvation Army are also holding their service in 
the Park, so near that we can almost hear the hymns. 
There are always soldiers hovering near when they have 
their service; I wonder if it does any good. When we 
were at Dover last year I went quite often to their ser-, 
vice — they had one almost every afternoon, late, on the 
beach. It was a curious sight, such a motley crowd, 
rugged old fishermen, boys (half water rats), women, 
children, and occasionally a well-dressed, prosperous 
small tradesman, often soldiers — some lounging on the 
outskirts of the little circle, some sitting on boats, some 
reverent, some merely curious, but all joining in the 
hymns. I must say it interested me very much ; not the 
sermon, nor the preachers as a general thing, but the little 
earnest group gathered on the sands with the swash of 
the waves for an accompaniment, and the red coats of 
the soldiers making a patch of colour. Some of the 
women looked pretty even in their regulation poke- 
bonnets. 



354 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [May 

French Embassy, London, 
May 1 8th. 

It is a beautiful, fine day. I did not perform the Draw- 
ing-room, but walked about in the crowd with Ponta- 
vice, which was decidedly amusing. We saw a good 
many people we knew in the carriages and talked to some 
of them. Very tired they looked, having been for hours 
in the string. I wanted too to see some of the handsome 
English turn-outs, as when we go ourselves we hardly 
see anything but colleagues. The policeman, who knew 
us, let us stand where we liked — I told him to stop the 
French Ambassador's carriage when it came out. He 
did, and I jumped in, much to the astonishment of the 
crowd. We had a pleasant dinner at Lady Delamere's. 
About the middle the electric light went out and we sat 
for a few minutes in perfect darkness, except for a suc- 
cession of matches that Lord Wimborne, who was next 
to me, lit. The servants lost their heads, and didn't think 
at first of lighting candles which were on the table. It 
only lasted those few minutes. Of course such accidents 
will happen perpetually until the system is perfected and 
universally applied. 

Saturday, May 20th. 

We had a pleasant dinner to-night at Lord Tweed- 
mouth's and I went afterward to a very handsome ball 
at the Burtons' with Nannie and Pontavice. They have 
Chesterfield House — one of the best London houses — 
flowers and electric light everywhere, and such splendid 
pictures. All the smart women in London were there, 
and all with their tiaras, except one, who explained to me 
that tiaras should only be worn at Embassies, or when 
one was invited to meet Royalties, "which of course you 
understand, as you haven't put yours on" — so I didn't 



1892] ENGLISH WOMEN IN POLITICS 355 

tell the reason, which was that I had forgotten mine, 
I so rarely wear anything in my hair, and a tiara is 
heavy ; also I have to be "recoirfee," which I hate. My 
hair is done in the morning, and walks or rides all day, 
and is merely pulled out a little at night. 

Saturday, May 21, 1892. 

We dined to-night at the Trevelyans, all Conserva- 
tives. The Stanleys (African Stanley) were there. He 
looks as hard as steel, but I suppose couldn't do what he 
has done if he were not. Many say he wants to be an 
M.P. and is sure of his election. His wife can help him 
enormously. It is so curious to me to see all the women 
occupying themselves so energetically with politics. They 
go about the country canvassing for their husbands ; wear 
the colours of the party; and have affiches sometimes in 
their windows. I saw one well-known political woman 
in London who had large bills posted on her window, 
"Vote for Lord R." We should be hooted in France if 
we did that sort of thing. My husband has been candi- 
date very often, for many offices, but I have scarcely seen 
his name at the bottom of a circular and never heard him 
address a public meeting of any kind — in fact, have never 
been in the country when the elections were going on. It 
is rather curious, as women have such a strong position 
in France — a mere de famille, and above all a grand- 
mother, is somebody. A clever, strong-minded grand- 
mother is a power in her family and immediate circle. 

French Embassy, London, 
Wednesday, June 1, 1892. 

We had a funny experience to-night. We had been 
engaged for some time to dine with the Gladstones, to 
meet the Archbishop of Canterbury and Mrs. Benson. 



356 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [June 

Mrs. Gladstone wrote to me yesterday, asking me to 
come punctually at 7.45, as the Archbishop didn't like 
late hours (he is rather a delicate man) and had asked 
to dine early. We made a great effort to get there in 
time — and did; so did everybody else — except the Ben- 
sons. We waited one hour — then went to dinner (they 
had sent a messenger to Lambeth and the answer came 
back that the Archbishop and Mrs. Benson had started 
Jwurs ago. Everyone was worried and feared there must 
have been an accident. At 9.30 o'clock, when dinner was 
practically over (we had got to the jellies and ices), a 
message was brought to Mr. Gladstone. He left the 
room and reappeared with the Bensons. The explana- 
tion was that Mrs. Gladstone had written her invitation 
from Dollis Hill, a place belonging to Lord Aberdeen, 
some miles out of London. They often stay there, so the 
Archbishop naturally imagined he was to dine there, and 
they had been driving about in the country. The poor 
old lady was dreadfully put out — "The Archbishop might 
have known that we were in London." Of course the 
dinner was all brought back and our evening was long. 
However, we managed to go for a moment to the For- 
eign Office. I said to Lady Salisbury I hoped it wasn't 
the last time we were supping with her at the Foreign 
Office (everyone says the Liberals are coming in again). 
"Will you think me very rude if I say I hope so, though 
of course I shall always want to see my friends in Arling- 
ton Street" (their private residence). I think she and 
Lord Salisbury are both tired and will be glad to have 
a rest, not that they will socially, for they are always 
receiving, both in London and at Hatfield. We got home 
fairly early, though the streets were crowded, Piccadilly 
something awful. It is a regular London night — car- 
riages rolling in every direction, and all the world dining, 



1892] CONCERT BY A FRENCH BAND 357 

dancing, supping. W. was rather funny over the dinner 
and the long wait, but said that if he had been in Ben- 
son's place he would have gone straight home from 
Dollis Hill, and had a cup of tea in his library. 

Thursday, July 2, 1892. 
We had a small luncheon party this morning to hear 
the band of the Garde Republicaine, who have come 
over from Paris for a few days to the Exhibition. They 
play magnificently — we have been to hear them once or 
twice and I assure you when they play the "Marseillaise" 
it makes one's pulses leap. We had the Duke of Cam- 
bridge, Prince Edward of Saxe- Weimar, Staals, Coven- 
trys, etc. They played on the terrace — we had draped 
the balcony with red stuffs, and had some flowers and 
plants and about 70 chairs on the terrace. The Duke 
talked a great deal. As soon as luncheon was over he 
went straight to the library, which opens on the terrace. 
We presented the Chef-de-Musique, and they played at 
once a few bars of "God Save the Queen"; then the 
"Marseillaise," everyone standing. Someone said to the 
Duke, "It is very fine, but not an anthem like our 'God 
Save the Queen.' ' "Non," he answered, "mais c'est un 
magnifique chant de guerre." They played for about an 
hour, people coming and going and standing about on the 
terrace. Some of our friends passing couldn't imagine 
what was going on — there was quite a crowd collected in 
the Park listening. My dress hadn't come from Paris, 
so I wore white, trimmed with Valenciennes; I thought 
a little of wearing a tiny tricolour bow, but didn't after 
all. One of the prettiest women there was Mrs. Astor, 
in black, with a big black picture hat. 



35* LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

To H. L. K. 

Walmer Castle, 
July 17, 1892. 

We came down here yesterday and hoped (at least I 
did) to have a lovely day on the water. Lord Dufferin 
is a great yachtsman and cruises all about in his own 
little boat. At the present moment it is pouring — I can 
hardly see the sea — every now and then comes a partial 
break and I get a glimpse of a great grey expanse of 
water. We got down for dinner last night ; a small party, 
as there are not many bedrooms — Lord and Lady Wan- 
tage (he such a nice man, one of the few Englishmen who 
has the "Legion d'Honneur," which he got in the Cri- 
mean War), the Marchesa Chigi from Rome, and various 
young men. The dinner was handsome — Lord Dufferin 
always a charming host — and we finished the evening in 
the big drawing-room, where I always feel as if I were 
in the cabin of a ship, it is so directly on the water. It 
looks exactly as it did in Lady Granville's time, and in 
fact Lady D. told me she had not changed anything. 
When I went to the drawing-room this morning I found 
the three ladies talking and trying to persuade themselves 
that it would clear after lunch. I said I did not mind 
weather and could not stay in the house all day, so we 
agreed to equip ourselves suitably and go for a walk 
after lunch. In the meantime Lady D. took me over the 
house — we went to see Wellington's room (where he 
died). His little camp-bed is still there, and some inter- 
esting relics, bits of uniform, and one or two letters 
framed and hung upon the wall. The room is small, in 
one of the towers, nothing magnificent or ducal about it. 
In fact the whole house is simple and not large, one good 
drawing-room, looking straight out to sea, so that sitting 



i8 92 ] WALMER CASTLE 359 

inside you see the big ships pass apparently close under 
the windows — a fair dining-room, no library or billiard- 
room, and a few bedrooms — an ideal place for a water 
life. The moat has been changed into a garden and there 
is a tennis-court somewhere, though I didn't exactly make 
out where. We went for a walk along the sea wall with 
waterproofs and umbrellas, and I wondered if we should 
be blown over into the sea, the wind came in such violent 
gusts sometimes. It seems a child and a perambulator 
were blown off the other day, and strange to say nothing 
was hurt, neither child nor perambulator — only the nurse 
had hysterics. We walked to Deal and paid Lady Her- 
schell a visit. I rather demurred at going in, as my hair 
was decidedly ruffled and I was very wet, but they all 
wanted to and I didn't look any worse than any of the 
others. The Castle is fine, interesting — not so large as 
Walmer, but with always the same beautiful situation 
close to the sea. It is one of the Cinque Ports, and Lord 
Sydney had it as long as he lived. The Herschells walked 
back with us, and coming home was pleasanter, as the 
rain had stopped and the wind diminished a little. I 
came up after tea, as I was a little tired and thought I 
would take advantage of a quiet moment to write to you. 
I will finish to-night, as we have come upstairs early. 
We had rather an amusing evening. The young peo- 
ple proposed playing "Historical Portraits," and insisted 
upon our all taking part. I protested vehemently, as I 
never have drawn anything in my life. I remember the 
drawing class years ago at Mrs. Ward's, when we all 
copied a Greek girl with an amphora on her head, and 
the tears I shed over my performance. The amphora 
(that might have been anything) was crooked and top- 
pling over, and all her arms and legs were of different 
lengths. Even the drawing master was obliged to say 



360 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

I had no facility with ray pencil. The game is really an 
undertaking. Everyone is given paper and pencils and 
you have 5 minutes by the watch to draw a historical 
portrait or portraits. My neighbour, one of the sons, 
was doing something most elaborate — a quantity of fig- 
ures — my other neighbour, about my calibre, looked 
helpless, but said she must do something. What do you 
think she did? "The House that Jack Built," an infan- 
tine production with 4 lines and a chimney, the sort 
of thing that we all have done as children. That gave me 
courage, particularly as she had played the game before, 
and knew what could be received, so I drew the "Man 
in the Moon." Can't you see it — a large, round O with 
dots for eyes, nose, and mouth. Some of the drawings 
were really very clever — the "Field of the Cloth of Gold" 
with a great many figures, and Raleigh and his cloak 
before Elizabeth; Queen Elizabeth with a chignon and a 
short bicycle skirt. We amused ourselves very much. 
We leave to-morrow morning, W. by the first train, as 
he had an early rendezvous in London. I shall go a lit- 
tle later with the Wantages. 

London, 
Friday, July 22, 1892. 

W. and I drove out to Lyon House this afternoon to 
a garden party at the Duke of Northumberland's. It is 
a fine old place, about an hour's drive from London, with 
big iron gates, with the Percy lion with its tail straight 
out on top. The Duke did not appear — his daughter-in- 
law, Countess Percy (who is a daughter of the Duke of 
Argyll) did the honours. She showed us the great cor- 
ridor and large drawing-room with a fine Adam's ceiling, 
and then we went out into the garden, where there were 
quantities of tents, carpets, tea-tables — and half London. 



i8 9 2] PREPARING FOR A HOLIDAY 361 

Everyone was talking elections. I sympathised with 
Philip Stanhope, who has been beaten, and said, "Why 
didn't you spend more money while you were about it?" 
He was not in the least outraged at such a question, and 
replied promptly, "I should have certainly, if I hadn't 
been so sure of being named." They say a great deal of 
money has been spent this time. 

London, July 27th. 

We had our last outing for this year last night; a 
handsome dinner at Tornielli's for the Due d'Aoste. 
He is a tall, good-looking young fellow, decidedly dash- 
ing, and inclined to amuse himself. He is a curious con- 
trast to his father, whom I liked extremely, but who was 
cold and silent, looked like a Spanish grandee of the 
Middle Ages, or a soldier-monk — a very striking face 
and figure. Countess Somaglia (nee Gwendoline Doria) 
was among the guests, with her two daughters. We 
talked a little of old days in Rome. I remember so well 
when she was married. 

To-morrow I shall make our paquets, and we four, 
Francis and I, May and Beatrice, leave for Bayreuth and 
the Tyrol by the Club train on Saturday. I ordered my 
mountain dresses at Nicoll's — two skirts to one jacket — 
a real short one faced with leather for mountaineering, 
and a longer one, shortish too, for travelling, in blue 
serge; a shortish blue linen, and an alpaca. All the 
personnel dine to-night for good-bye. This is my 9th 
season in London — I wonder if I shall ever see it again. 
I have a presentiment that next year we shall only go 
back to take leave. 



362 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Feb. 

To G. K. S. 

French Embassy, 
February 1, 1893. 

We came over last night; a very good crossing, the 
shortest I ever made ; we were just one hour on the boat. 
Lady Salisbury was on board, coming from the Riviera 
We talked all the way over. She is very sorry we are 
going — says the Queen will regret M. Waddington very 
much ; that she had great confidence in him, and now, at 
her age, rather dreads seeing strange faces around her. 
W. is very glad to get back to France — I too. After all, 
ten years is a long time to be away from one's country. 

Sunday, 5th. 

W. and I drove out this afternoon to White Lodge to 
say good-bye to Princess Mary. As we came quite near 
to the house we crossed very quickly two gentlemen in 
a hansom and just recognised the Prince of Wales and 
Prince George. Everyone is saying that that marriage 
will be arranged. Princess Mary and Princess May were 
alone, and decidedly more cheerful. Princess May still 
in black, but with no crepe and a little jet. Princess 
Mary was charming and friendly as she always is, and 
seemed really sorry we were going, also wanted to know 
who was coming in our place ; but that I couldn't tell her. 
She promised to come to tea one afternoon at the Em- 
bassy before we went away. Various people came in to 
tea, as they always do here on Sunday afternoon, and 
someone said the marriage was certainly decided and 
would be announced after the 27th, which was to have 
been the wedding-day last year. They certainly looked 
much brighter and happier than I expected to see them. 



i893] GLADSTONE'S SPEECH ON IRELAND 363 

French Embassy, 
February 13, 1893. 

I went this afternoon to the House of Commons to 
hear Mr. Gladstone make his great Irish speech. I had 
an excellent place in the front row of the ladies' gallery, 
and heard and saw everything. The House was packed, 
chairs all along the gangway — the Prince, Dukes of 
York and Teck in their places, quantities of peers and 
some diplomats — no Ambassadors, which surprised me. 
I know that W. always prefers reading a speech the next 
day, but I thought some of the others would be there. 
Mr. Gladstone was much cheered by both sides when he 
came in (a tribute to his age and intelligence rather than 
to his politics). He rose to speak at a quarter to 4, fin- 
ishing at 5 minutes past six (two hours and 20 minutes). 
He was much quieter and less passionate than I had ex- 
pected. There was no vehement appeal for the wrongs 
of Ireland. It was more an "expose de motifs" than a 
real speech, but it was an extraordinary effort for a man 
of his age (83). His voice was so clear and strong, 
never faltering : a little weaker and lower perhaps toward 
the end. I suppose it is the last great political speech he 
will ever make. 

To H. L. K. 

French Embassy, 
March 3, 1893. 

We are beginning our tournee of farewell visits, and 
to-day we have been to take leave of the Prince and Prin- 
cess of Wales at Marlborough House. I had not seen 
the Princess since Prince Eddie's death. I wore blue 
velvet and my Jubilee medal. We were received at the 
door by all the household — Probyn, Lord Sufheld, Stan- 
ley Clark, Lady Suffield, and Miss Knollys. Prince 



364 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

George was in the first drawing-room. The Prince and 
Princess with two daughters in the big long room. I 
can't say I found the Princess changed or grown older. 
She looked sad, but it was the same slight, youthful 
figure. She was still in deep plain black (woollen stuff) 
with no ornaments. She was charming, with the sweet, 
simple manner she always has. Tears came into her 
eyes when she said she hadn't seen me for so long on 
account of her mourning. I asked her about her first 
grandchild — Princess Louise Fife's little girl. She said 
she was a dear little thing, talked a great deal, trotted 
about everywhere, and called her "Granny." W. and the 
Prince talked together, but we didn't stay very long. I 
didn't say a word to the Princess about Prince Eddie 
(they told me not to), only just as we were going I said 
I hoped the end of the year would bring her happiness 
and blessing. She squeezed my hand, but her lips quiv- 
ered and she couldn't speak. She has been unfailing to 
us always and said we should certainly meet again, and 
that I must always let her know when I came to England. 
I begin to realise now that we are going, with all these 
leave-takings. After all we have been here 10 years, and 
that is a good piece out of one's life. 

Albert Gate, 
March 5, 1893. 

I wish you had been here yesterday to see the farewell 
dinner for W. at the Mansion House. It was a great 
tribute to a departing Ambassador — all the distinguished 
men in England assembled to say good-bye. The Lady 
Mayoress had asked me to dine with her and bring any- 
one I wanted, so I took Hilda and Mdme. de la Ville- 
streux. Hilda and I started together a little before 7. 
As we drew near the Mansion House there was quite 



i893] A FAREWELL DINNER 365 

a crowd; quantities of policemen, and empty carriages 
driving away. We went in by the same entrance as the 
men, and then turned off sharp to the right and were 
conducted to the drawing-room of the Lady Mayoress. 
I wore black moire with a great band of orange velvet 
on the corsage, and all the jewels I possessed — tiara, 
pearls, and diamond necklace and diamond stars and 
ornaments fastened on the front of the dress, as I knew 
we were to sit in the gallery after dinner to hear the 
speeches. We found Mdme. de la Villestreux already 
there — there were 16 women. The Lady Mayoress pre- 
sented them all to me. They were all ex-Lady Mayor- 
esses — "ladies who had passed the chair," which it seems 
is the technical term. She also gave me a splendid bou- 
quet tied with a tricolour ribbon. The dinner was very 
good, the traditional London public dinner menu — turtle 
soup, salmon, etc. There was very handsome silver on 
the table : great massive bowls and flagons and beautiful 
flowers — very quickly served, and really very pleasant. 
After the first five minutes everyone talked. Some of the 
women were handsome, all well dressed and with quan- 
tities of diamonds. Just as we were finishing a servant 
came to summon us to the gallery. The loving cup was 
going round and the speeches were to begin. The Lady 
Mayoress led the way to the gallery in the great ban- 
queting hall directly opposite the table d'honneur. It was 
a striking sight, particularly that table where was the 
Lord Mayor in his robes, and all the diplomatists with 
stars and broad ribbons. There was a blaze of light and 
at first I couldn't recognise anyone (we were very high), 
and then I saw W. standing, drinking out of the loving 
cup, with the Lord Mayor on one side and Rustem on the 
other, and gradually I made out a good many people. 
There were two long tables besides the table d'honneur, 



366 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar 

and they told me about 300 guests. All the representa- 
tive men and intelligence of England assembled to say 
God-speed to the departing Ambassador. The Speaker 
and Lord Herschell (Presidents of the two Houses) were 
both there, and men of every possible coterie from Lord 
Lome to James Knowles of the "Nineteenth Century." 
As soon as the regular toasts had been drunk there was 
a pause and then came the toast of the evening with 
"bumpers," "The French Ambassador." There were 
roars of applause when W. got on his legs, and I must 
confess to a decided choke in my throat. W. spoke (in 
English, which they had asked him to do) very simply 
and very well, going back to his early "days. When he 
said that he had done his best always to keep up good 
and friendly relations with England, and that he had 
had much sympathy from all sides, he was much cheered ; 
but much more when he said that perhaps what had 
given him more friends in England than any of his public 
acts as a statesman was the fact that he had rowed in 
the University eight at Cambridge. Then there were 
roars of applause, and he heard quite distinctly the people 
below saying — "he is quite right, we always remember 
it." He was quite emu when he came to the end; his 
voice taking that grave tone I like so much when he said 
"good-bye." One heard every word. He was much 
cheered when he finished. The Lady Mayoress came 
and shook hands with me and asked me if I wasn't proud 
of my husband. Some of the speeches were charming — 
the Speaker's particularly ; Lord Lome also made a very 
pretty little speech, and Rustem (Turk), who answered 
the toast for the "Corps Diplomatique," made a very 
good speech. I can't remember all the names and all the 
speeches, but it was a most brilliant assembly, and as 
Countess Deym said to me, a wonderful tribute to W. As 



i8 9 3] COMPLIMENTS AND GOOD WISHES 367 

soon as the speeches were over we all went down to the 
great hall, where I had a perfect defile of compliments 
and regrets, Lord Lome again repeating his words "that 
W.'s departure was a national calamity." All had some- 
thing friendly to say — the two Law Lords, Judge Bowen 
and Sir Francis Jeune, most sympathetic. S. too told 
me I should be much pleased — he had never seen such a 
demonstration in England for a foreigner. Of course 
some of the young men came in to the Embassy to talk 
the dinner over, and gave their impressions. They were 
all much pleased. W. certainly was, and said he felt 
quite emu when he saw all the faces turned to him 
and knew that every word he said would tell — also he 
knew quite well that his reference to the boat-race would 
appeal much more to the general public than any expres- 
sions of good feeling toward England. He hasn't always 
had an easy time with his English name and his English 
education. Of course it has been very useful to him 
here, as he has been thrown with all sorts of people, and 
could understand the English point of view, but in 
France they were always afraid he was too English. I 
think when he has gone they will realise at home what 
good work he has done here because he understands them. 

French Embassy, London, 
March 8, 1893. 

W. and I went together to the Mansion House, Tues- 
day, to pay a farewell visit to the Lady Mayoress, who 
was receiving formally with music, tea, and quantities of 
people. The Lord Mayor appeared too when he heard 
we were there, and was quite pleased when W. said how 
gratified and touched he had been by the banquet and 
the universal expression of regret at his departure. The 
Lord Mayor said to him, "You can't find any warmer 



368 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

friends, Ambassador, in France than those you are leav- 
ing here, but I quite understand that a man can't live 
long out of his own country." We had just time to get 
back to the Embassy, dress, and start for Windsor, where 
we dined : our last stay in the yellow rooms. The din- 
ner was almost entirely Royal — the Empress Frederick, 
Prince and Princess Christian, Prince and Princess 
Henry of Battenberg, Duchess of Connaught, del Mazo, 
the Spanish Ambassador, I the only other lady. The 
cercle was not long — I thought the Queen looked tired. 
She sat down at once ; said she wouldn't say good-bye, as 
she hoped to see me once more at Buckingham Palace. 
She said at her age she rather dreaded saying good-bye, 
also seeing new faces, and she was very sorry we were 
going. "Who comes to replace you?" I said I thought 
nothing was yet decided. I talked some time to the other 
Princesses after the Queen had congedied me. The Em- 
press was as usual charming, and said, "I am afraid we 
sha'n't meet again often, Mdme. Waddington, you won't 
cross to Berlin, and I can't go to Paris, but that isn't my 
fault. I think we shall have to meet in Italy, where I 
first had the pleasure of seeing you." The end of the 
evening we spent as usual in the drawing-room with the 
"household." I had quite a talk with Prince Henry, 
who is very good-looking and attractive. We left the 
drawing-room about eleven — W. going as usual to 
smoke, and I to my rooms. I sat some time in front of 
the fire in the beautiful little yellow drawing-room won- 
dering if I ever should see it again, and going back to 
our first Windsor visit, when all was so new and strange 
to me. I wonder where we shall be this time next year, 
and if we shall settle down easily to our quiet life in 
France. W. came in rather late from the smoking-room : 
he said all the men were so nice to him, and seemed really 



i8 93 ] LAST VISIT TO WINDSOR 3 6 9 

sorry he was going; also were very anxious to know if 
he wasn't sorry himself. 

This morning (Wednesday) it was beautiful. I 
breakfasted as usual in my rooms and sat some time in 
the deep window recess watching all the people coming 
and going. There is always so much life about Windsor 
when the Queen is there. About 10 Colonel Byng came 
to take us to the Chapel to see the sarcophagus of Prince 
Eddie, which is enormous and has rather too much 
colour — almost gaudy. I went with Hilda the other day 
to Gilbert's studio to see the monument he is making, 
and which I liked. It is very elaborate and complicated, 
but the sleeping figure good : so reposeful and young ; 
the long straight limbs. One quite realised a young life 
cut short. Gilbert is clever and interesting, and begged 
us to criticise freely. 

We got home about 12 and I took a short turn in the 
Park before breakfast, which was full as usual when the 
Queen passes. She came this afternoon for two Draw- 
ing-rooms. I shall do my last to-morrow — I sha'n't go 
to the second. 

French Embassy, 
March 10, 1893. 

I am doing all my last things. I went to the Drawing- 
room yesterday (our last). Countess Spencer presented 
the ladies, and looked very stately and handsome in 
black, with splendid jewels. The Queen didn't stay very 
long, but looked less tired, I thought, than the other night 
at Windsor. I said good-bye to a great many people 
whom I sha'n't see again. At this season plenty of people 
are still in the country, and only come up for a day or two 
for Drawing-rooms, theatres, etc. Teesdale and I had 
quiet an affectionate parting. For so long now we have 
made our entree together into the Throne Room : he 



370 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

holding my hand and both of us making a deep bow and 
curtsey at the door, that we have become quite like 
puppets. 

This afternoon I have had my farewell audience from 
the Queen at Buckingham Palace at 4 o'clock. I wore 
as usual the blue velvet, which will walk about alone 
soon, as it has done all the ceremonies lately ; my pearls, 
and a creme velvet bonnet with light blue feathers. I 
went in the ordinary open carriage (not gala). The 
gala carriage with the powdered wigs, big footmen, 
canes, etc., went out yesterday for the last time to the 
Drawing-room. I had some difficulty in getting into 
the court-yard, which was filled with carriages, luggage- 
vans, soldiers, etc., as the Queen was leaving this after- 
noon for Windsor. I was sent from one entrance to 
another, in spite of the tricolour cockade, and finally 
drew up at a side-door (where a shabby little victoria 
was standing). A man in ordinary black livery ap- 
peared, and after a short parley (in which I intervened 
myself, saying that I was the French Ambassadress and 
had an audience with the Queen) he showed me into a 
room on the ground floor. I waited about 15 minutes 
(it was 5 minutes to 4 when I arrived) and then Lady 
Southampton, Lady in Waiting, appeared, with many 
apologies for being late — she didn't think I would come 
so soon (and I was a little afraid of being late, they kept 
me so long in the court-yard). We went upstairs to a 
small drawing-room looking out on the court-yard, and 
jn about 10 minutes the same servant in black appeared, 
saying, "The Queen is ready to receive the French Am- 
bassadress." Lady Southampton said she couldn't come, 
as the Queen wished to see me alone, so I followed the 
servant down a long corridor — he stopped at a door, 
knocked, a voice said "come in," and I found myself in 



i8 93 ] A FAREWELL AUDIENCE 371 

the Royal presence. It was a small, ordinary room, 
rather like a sort of waiting-room, no traces of habi- 
tation, nothing pretty or interesting. The Queen was 
standing, very simply dressed in black (her travelling 
dress she said, she was starting at once for Windsor) 
before a writing-table which was in the middle of 
the room, covered with books and papers. She was 
most kind, made me sit down on the sofa next to her, 
and said she was afraid she had kept me waiting, but 
that she had been kept by a visit from Mr. Gladstone — 
she then paused a moment, so I made a perfectly banal 
remark, "what a wonderful man, such an extraordinary 
intelligence," to which she replied, "He is very deaf." 
She expressed great regret at our departure, and hoped 
we were sorry to leave England and all our friends, but 
after all Paris was not very far off, and she hoped she 
should see me again. She was sure M. Waddington 
would find plenty to do when he got back — would he 
continue his literary work? I said he would certainly 
have plenty to do, as he was Senator and Membre de 
lTnstitut, but that we should both miss the Embassy life 
and the varied interests it brought. She repeated that she 
hoped to see me again, so I asked if ever I came back to 
England might I write to one of her ladies, and ask if I 
could be received. "Pray do, and I shall not say good- 
bye, but au revoir." We talked about 15 minutes about 
all sorts of things — some of our colleagues — our succes- 
sor, etc. She asked again who was coming to London, 
and said, "My last two Ambassadors to France were ex- 
Viceroys." It seemed to me that she said it on purpose, 
and that she wanted France to send one of her best men 
to St. James's. I repeated the remark to my husband, 
and the chancellerie. It is quite true. The present Brit- 
ish Ambassador, Lord Dufferin, is certainly the first 



372 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

diplomatist they have. He has had every distinguished 
post England can offer — Ambassador to St. Petersburg 
and Rome, Governor of Canada, and Viceroy of India, 
and has played a great part. His predecessor, Lord 
Lytton, was also Viceroy of India, and very distin- 
guished, though in a different way from Lord Dufferin. 
I rather fancy that Montebello would be an acceptable 
appointment. He knows English well, has English rela- 
tions, and I should think would like the post, but I have 
really no idea. Some of the papers say that Ribot wants 
the place, but I think he prefers home politics and would 
not care to leave France; however, I could not tell the 
Queen anything definite. She kissed me at parting, and 
gave me her photograph, signed, in a handsome silver 
frame — then half turned her back, moving to a door on 
the other side of the room, so that I could get out easily 
and not altogether a reculons, which would have been 
awkward to open the door. I tucked my parcel under 
my arm, opened the door myself (a thing I don't often 
do in these days, except my bedroom door) and found 
myself again in the long corridor. My audience was 
over, and I daresay I shall never see the Queen again. 
She was unfailing to us both from the first moment, al- 
ways welcomed us with the same smile, was always in- 
clined to talk about anything and to understand and 
smooth over any little difficulty or misunderstanding. I 
think she is a wonderful woman and a wonderful Queen. 
In her long life she must have had many difficult ques- 
tions and responsibilities, and certainly England has not 
suffered under her rule. I met Lady S. in the corridor, 
who came downstairs with me, and said she was quite 
sure the Queen meant it when she said she would like 
to see me again, that she never said anything she didn't 
mean. 



i8 9 3] A SOUVENIR 373 

I found Hilda and one or two friends when I got home 
who told me that the English ladies, headed by Ladies 
Salisbury and Spencer, representing the two parties, 
Conservative and Liberal, were going to give me a sou- 
venir (in memory of my ten years in London), a jewel 
of some kind. I was rather pleased. The last days of 
adieux are rather melancholy. I shall be glad when they 
are over. I forgot to say that Wednesday I had a mes- 
sage about 3 o'clock from the Princess Beatrice, saying 
she and Prince Henry of Battenberg would come about 
5 and ask me for a cup of tea. The notice was so short 
that I hadn't time to ask anyone except Hilda, who hap- 
pened in, and some of the secretaries. They came alone 
and were most friendly — said they had not given me any 
more time on purpose, as they didn't want a party, but 
merely to see us. They were as easy and pleasant as 
possible, she talking much more than she ever does in 
the grand monde. I told her I hoped she would let me 
know if ever she came to Paris. She said. "Oh, yes — 
and we will do a lively play together." 

To H. L. K. 

Albert Gate, 
Tuesday, March 14, 1893. 
I went this afternoon with Mdme. de la Villestreux 
to the French bazaar at Kensington Town Hall to receive 
Princess Mary, who opened it (and very much better 
than I did the day I performed the same thing). Mdme. 
de Bylandt, de Bille, Mdme. du Poutel de la Harpe were 
all there waiting at the foot of the stairs. Princess Mary 
was easy and charming, and I really think was not bored. 
She had all the ladies presented to her, talked to them all, 
knew apparently all their relations, young and old, com- 



374 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

plimented them on the arrangement of their stalls, said 
the various objects made and presented by the Ladies' 
Art Association were very artistic and useful (I wish 
you could have seen them — our pincushions at the Vente 
des Diaconnesses were things of beauty next to them), 
took her tea, said the cake was so good, and delighted 
everybody. When I see how easy it is for Royalties to 
win golden opinions with a few gracious words and a 
smile, I wonder at the stiff, stand-off manner some of 
them adopt. Princess May looked very slight and pretty, 
and is always well dressed. I again wore the blue velvet, 
which will fall off me soon, but this time I changed the 
bonnet and wore a black jet one with a red rose, and it 
wasn't very pretty. 

March 16, 1893. 
We had a last musical afternoon to-day at Marie Hum- 
licher's : 8 hands, two pianos, she directing and the per- 
formers being Ctesse. de Bylandt, Mile, de Staal, Hilda 
and I. We played Mozart and Schumann, really very 
well. Mile. Humlicher has a nice big room over a cou- 
touriere on Fulham Road. She always gives us tea after 
the music, which is generally brought up by a tidy little 
English maid with her cap and apron. She was astound- 
ed this afternoon when the tea was brought in by a most 
elegant young person, dressed in the latest fashion, and 
attended by a second, also most stylish — however, as the 
tea was all right she did not say anything ; neither did I, 
but I waited a moment after the other ladies had gone 
and she had a mysterious conversation on the stairs and 
came in highly amused. It seems the two elegant ladies 
were the dressmaker and her assistant. When they saw 
all these ambassadorial equipages at their door — enor- 
mous powdered footmen, wigs, cockades, etc., also Hil- 



1893] THE PRESENTATION 375 

da's beautiful carriage (Deichmann has splendid horses 
always and everything perfectly well turned out), their 
curiosity got the better of them and they felt they must 
see the swells ; so they interviewed the maid, installed her 
in their rooms to attend to any customer who might 
come, got into their swell garments, and brought up the 
tea. Wasn't it funny? Luckily we were all rather ele- 
gant. I had been paying some farewell visits, and it so 
happened that we were all up to the mark. I have some- 
times gone to Mile. Humlicher's on foot in a cloth dress, 
as it is not far from the Embassy. I am sorry to have 
done with those afternoons — Mile. Humlicher plays 
beautifully — she is a pupil of Rubinstein's and has a real 
artistic nature. 

Friday, March 17th. 

I had a line from Lady Salisbury yesterday, asking if 
to-day at 5 would suit me to receive the ladies and my 
present. I accepted of course, asking her about how 
many would come. She answered, between 50 and 60, 
she thought. As the moment drew near I got rather 
nervous, for W. said they would certainly make me a 
little speech and that I would have to reply, and he sug- 
gested thinking it over; but that I refused and said I 
must trust to the inspiration of the moment. I wore my 
purple satin. The ladies arrived very punctually. There 
were one or two men, all the personnel, including W., 
and one or two of my friends, Sir George Arthur, 
Gevers, etc. Lady Salisbury asked me where I would 
stand, so I put myself in the middle of the big drawing- 
room, under the chandelier. Lady Salisbury was spokes- 
woman, flanked on one side by Lady Spencer, the other 
by Mrs. Gladstone ; all the other ladies, including Ladies 
Londonderry, Cadogan, Shrewsbury, Harcourt, etc., 



376 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

forming a circle round me. Lady Salisbury made a very 
pretty little speech, beginning — "Madame Waddington, 
Ambassadress," and saying they hoped I would some- 
times think of England and my English friends, that I 
had been there so long that I seemed one of themselves, 
etc., and then handed me a blue velvet etui. I don't 
know exactly what I replied (I was rather emue and W. 
just opposite to me was looking at me hard), but evi- 
dently only a few words, to say that the ten years I had 
spent in London had been very happy ones, that France 
wasn't very far away, and that I hoped to come back 
often — but I think they understood that I was pleased 
and grateful for the present, and above all with the 
feeling that prompted it. The jewel is very handsome, 
a circle of large, beautiful white diamonds with a large 
pearl in the centre and another as pendant. It was passed 
around the company and they all found it very hand- 
some. We had tea in the blue room, and I talked to them 
all and said what was perfectly true, that they had been 
ten perfectly happy years we had spent in London, and 
ten years is a good piece out of one's life. They left me 
a book with the names of all the "signataires." W. was 
much pleased, and I fancy it was rather an unusual 
demonstration. One of these days, when Francis's wife 
wears it, it will be a historic jewel. After all the com- 
pany had gone the secretaries stayed on a little while. 
I think they are all sorry we are going, and they certainly 
regret W. as a chief. They all say he is so absolutely 
just. 

Albert Gate, 
Monday, March 27, 1893. 

We walked about in the Row this morning. It was 
cold and raw, not many people. We dined at the Italian 



1893] DINNERS AND TEAS 377 

Embassy in the evening with Tornielli. The Comtesse 
is at Naples with her niece, the young Marquise Pauluc- 
ci, who has just had a fine boy. The dinner was small, 
mostly colleagues. We sat after dinner in the red draw- 
ing-room, which is very picturesque — a fine old carved 
chimney, enormous, and beautiful old red silk hangings 
just faded enough to give an old-world look. He has 
brought quantities of things from his palace in Italy. 
Lincoln was there. He knows who his successor is — 
Mr. Bayard. We don't know ours. 

Albert Gate, 
March 29, 1893. 

Princess Mary and Princess May had promised to 
come once to tea before I left and they named to-day. 
I asked very few people — Duchess of St. Albans, Ladies 
Arran, Randolph Churchill, Hilda, and some men, Deym, 
Tornielli, Mensdorff, George Arthur, etc. Lady Ran- 
dolph is very musical, plays extremely well and is very 
kind to all the artists. I asked Mile. Jansen (Swedish), 
who sang quite beautifully — a fine voice, such a ring in 
it. She is going to America, and I am sure she will have 
a great success. Both Princesses were as cordial and 
nice as possible, said it would seem strange not to see 
me about everywhere any more. "Of course you will 
come back to London," Princess Mary said ; "but it can 
never be the same thing — you will be a visitor ; now you 
are living your life with us, and London is your home." 
Princess May looked very pretty, and so bright that I 
fancy her engagement is settled — everyone seems to 
think so. I didn't say anything to her, but when I parted 
from Princess Mary at the foot of the stairs I couldn't 
help saying that I heard that very soon all her friends 
would be able to congratulate her, and that as I was 



378 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Mar. 

going I would like to think that very happy days were 
before her. She said "I hope so — I think so/' and kissed 
me. At the door she turned and said, "I wonder when I 
shall have tea and music again in these rooms. I shall 
always think with pleasure of the French Embassy." 
We had a farewell dinner at our cousin's, Mrs. Mostyn's. 
Lord Herschell was on one side of me and talked a great 
deal about the banquet at the Mansion House. He said 
W.'s English was so good, too classical if anything; said 
he would like very much to hear him speak in French 
and at the Tribune. He couldn't imagine such a quiet 
speech and manner in the fiery French Chamber. I told 
him the Senate was much more sedate than the Chamber 
(consequently much less amusing) and that he would 
often hear a perfectly quiet academic speech there. 

French Embassy, 
Good Friday, March 31 1 1893. 

We went to the afternoon service at St. Paul's, where 
the anthem was beautiful. There were a great many 
people, a great many men following the service, and a 
great many also walking about looking at the tombs and 
tablets. 

We really have not a moment these last days. I shall 
go over a little before W., about the 12th of next month. 
We have had all sorts of leave-takings. The Empress 
Frederick received us the other day — always charming 
and interesting, but still talking of her visit to Paris, 
which she can't get over. She said to me, "I would have 
liked so much to see you in Paris, in your own house. 
M. Waddington promised me a dinner with all your 
clever men." "I should have been much pleased and 
honoured, Majeste; perhaps a little later he may have 
that pleasure — but I'm afraid " 



1893] EASTER SUNDAY 379 

We had all a pleasant visit to Princess Louise at Ken- 
sington, who said she would certainly let us know when 
she came to Paris — I think she often comes. We went 
to White Lodge, of course, where they all look so 
happy I can't help thinking that the marriage is ar- 
ranged. We also went, for a farewell cup of tea, to 
Alma Tadema, who receives once a week in his beauti- 
ful studio. He is going to send me an engraving of one 
of his lovely Greek pictures. His atelier is most pict- 
uresque and full of interesting things. He has a set of 
panels painted by all his artist friends which are gems. 
He is very attractive himself — so simple. There were 
a good many people there. 

We had a dinner and party (music) last week at Lady 
Wimborne's. Their entertainments are always success- 
ful. The house (Hamilton House) is one of the best in 
London. Lord B., a great friend of W.'s, took me to 
get an ice at the buffet, and was deploring W.'s departure. 
"Such a pity that Waddington had gone back to France 
after graduating so brilliantly at Cambridge. He would 
certainly have made the same career in England, and 
would have been Premier in England, so much better 
than being Premier in France" — a truly British senti- 
ment (what makes their strength, perhaps), but naif. 



To G. K. S. 

Albert Gate, 
Easter Sunday, April 2, 1893. 

My last Easter in London, a beautiful bright day. 
Henrietta, Francis, and I walked down to Westminster 
Abbey in the morning. It was crowded, as it always is 
— Easter is such a splendid service — the fine old Easter 
hymn always the same, with the Hallelujah echoing 



380 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [April 

through the vaults and arches. We had a small dinner 
in the evening — Jusserand (who had come back to see 
his friends, of whom he has thousands here), the La 
Villestreux, the personnel, and a few young people in the 
evening. I wore my jewel, which they all found very 
handsome. 

French Embassy, 
April 9th. 

Henrietta, Francis, and I went to the Temple Church 
this morning. It is a grand old place, right in the heart 
of London. We were met at the door by one of the 
"benchers," who gave us very good places and took us 
all over the church and various halls after service. Fran- 
cis had never been there and was wildly interested, par- 
ticularly in the tombs of the old Crusaders with their 
crossed legs. We lunched with quite a party of benchers 
and their wives in the "parlement" room, a charming 
room looking out on the river and across a garden filled 
with roses, streams of sunlight pouring in at all the win- 
dows. They told us the War of the Roses, white and 
red, was planned in those gardens, and asked us if we 
remembered the old lines: 

" If this red rose offend thy sight, 
It in thy bosom wear ; 
'Twill blush to find itself less white 
And turn Lancastrian there." 

Yesterday we had a handsome "Diner d'Adieu" at the 
Turkish Embassy, principally colleagues. Lincoln was 
there — he too is going, his wife left yesterday. They 
have raised the United States Legation here to an Em- 
bassy, and I hope they will raise the salaries. No one 
is more asked out or has a better position here than the 



i8 9 3] DEPARTURE FROM LONDON 381 

United States Minister. I always remember the remark 
of one of our colleagues, Baron Solvyns, who had been 
long in London and knew it well. We were talking one 
day about the Corps Diplomatique, small Powers, Em- 
bassies, etc., and were discussing who was the most im- 
portant Ambassador in London. Solvyns said, "There 
/is no doubt about it, the American Minister is the first 
Ambassador in London." 

French Embassy, 
April 12, 1893. 

My last letter from Albert Gate, Dear. Yesterday all 
our small things, silver, house linen, etc., departed. The 
packing seemed well done. We put everything that was 
to go in the ballroom (little Dresden figures, glasses, sil- 
ver ornaments), nothing packed, all spread out, on tables. 
A man came and made an inventory, packs everything 
in a great van that comes to the door and arrives at our 
door in the Rue Dumont d'Urville, where equally every- 
thing is taken out and unpacked. He says nothing will 
be broken. It is certainly a very easy way of moving, 
and I shall be anxious to see how they arrive. The 
Florians had their furniture taken over like that, and I 
think one table was a little demantibulee. We leave to- 
morrow ; we being Henrietta and I. W. stays some little 
time still. I take over all the French servants, both 
coachmen, and my victoria and horses, as I must settle 
myself for the spring in the Paris house. W. sends over 
one of the secretaries, M. Lecomte, with us, and the col- 
leagues are all coming to the station to say good-bye. 
The rooms look melancholy to-night, so many things 
gone; piano of course and all books and small tables, 
screens, etc. — all the gros mobilier belongs to the Em- 
bassy. We sat some time talking, just we three: W., 



382 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMATS WIFE [April 

Henrietta, and I, after dinner. W. has just been named 
one of the Directeurs du Canal de Suez. I think he will 
find plenty of occupation when he gets back. 

Paris, 31, Rue Dumont d'Urville, 
April 16, 1893. 

Here I am, Dear, back in my little salon, writing at 
my table in the corner by the window, and rather dis- 
tracted by the quantities of carriages passing. There 
is so much more movement in the street than when we 
left ten years ago, and I have got accustomed to such a 
quiet bedroom and salon. All our living rooms (except 
the dining-room) at Albert Gate gave on the Park, so 
we never heard the rattle and noise of carriages over 
pavements, and as no cabs nor camions are allowed in 
the Park the passing never disturbed us. We came over 
very comfortably on Thursday. All our colleagues were 
at the station to see us off, and I think they are sorry 
to say good-bye. We found our voiture-salon filled with 
flowers. Sir George Arthur and S. came over with us. 
It was very cold and very rough. All the men disap- 
peared at once, but Henrietta and I remained on deck 
and were quite happy, well wrapped up with rugs, and 
tarpaulins stretched in front of us to keep out the wet. 
Lecomte had arranged our lunch in the private room of 
the buffet at Calais (where W. and I always breakfasted 
when we came over) and it was comfortable to see a 
bright fire. I am ashamed to say that the ladies of the 
party eat a very good breakfast. The men looked rather 
white, and certainly were not good "fourchettes" at 
that meal. At Dover we had found Lord William Sey- 
mour in uniform, with his aide-de-camp, wife and daugh- 
ter waiting for us. He took me on the boat, and to the 
cabin, where there were more flowers, and stayed until 



i8 93 ] ARRIVAL IN PARIS 383 

the last moment, giving the captain all manner of instruc- 
tions for my comfort, and particularly to see that my 
cabin was warm, with plenty of rugs, etc. I never went 
near it. I think Adelaide and Bonny had a very com- 
fortable time there. Francis met us at the Gare du Nord, 
much pleased to have us back. We went to Henrietta's 
to dine. I was glad to come home directly after dinner 
and go to bed. Well, Dear, there is one chapter of my 
life closed — I wonder what the future reserves for us. 
I shall be uncomfortable for a few days until my van 
arrives. It left the same day we did, and the man said 
it would take a week to bring the things over, but I shall 
not expect them for ten days. I found quantities of cards 
and notes here, and Louise and Henrietta of course will 
give me dinner or anything else I want until I can get 
quite settled. Hubert got over only to-day. The sea 
was so rough he wouldn't cross on Thursday ; he waited 
a day at Folkestone, and another at Boulogne, to rest the 
horses which had been knocked about. W. writes that 
the Embassy seems absolutely empty. Still he dines out 
every night (at the club when he hasn't an invitation) 
and will come over as soon as he can. The house looks 
so small after the big rooms at Albert Gate, and the 
stable and little cour minute. It sounded so familiar to 
hear the carriage coming in under the voute, and also 
the street cries. I daresay in a few days I shall take 
up my ordinary Paris life, and London will seem a 
dream — like Moscow. 



384 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [July 

To G. K. S. 

Bayreuth, 

Saturday, July 31, 1897.* 
We arrived Thursday evening from Nuremberg in a 
pouring rain, which continued all day Friday, and detest- 
able it was — streets crowded, everybody's umbrella run- 
ning into one and catching in your veil (really twice in 
mine), mud everywhere, carriages scarce and dear. Our 
rooms are comfortable, Mary de Bunsen got them for 
us, a good-sized salon (with a piano), three bedrooms, 
and two maids' rooms. We have our early breakfast 
and supper, but dine out. Our experience at the Sonne 
was not very agreeable — a long, hot dining-room, quan- 
tities of hungry people and no servants to speak of. I 
was rather interested in my neighbour, a long, thin 
American, a Western man from Iowa I think, a school- 
master. He told me he had been saving for years to get 
money enough "to come across" (as he said) and hear 
"Parsifal." He had taught himself German in the even- 
ings when his class was finished. The man was in such 
a quiver of delighted anticipation that it was a pleasure 
to see him. I told him I was sure he would not be dis- 
appointed, as Van Dyck was to sing "Parsifal." There 
were quite a number of priests at table, and one heard a 
little French, but the talk was principally German and 
English. We got up to the theatre easily enough, as 
carriages were going backward and forward all the time. 
The opera, "Parsifal," was beautifully given — Van Dyck 
as good as ever. I always think he stands so wonder- 
fully in that scene where he has his back to the public 
and is absorbed by all he sees. He told me it was one 
of his most difficult parts. We had great difficulty in 

* M. Waddington died in 1894. Hence the interruption in the series of 
Madame Waddington's letters from 1893 until 1897. 



i8 9 7] WAGNER OPERAS AT BAYREUTH 385 

getting our coffee between the acts, and greater still in 
finding our carriage at the end. The crowd, and scramble, 
and mud were something awful. 

Friday, August 6th. 

We are leaving this afternoon, having had an enchant- 
ing week. Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, the 
whole Ring beautifully given. All the music is racing 
through my brain, from the lovely wave chorus of the 
swimming Rhine maidens to the magnificent end of the 
"Gotterdammerung" with all the different motifs worked 
in. They played the funeral march of "Siegfried'' splen- 
didly. It is a curious life one leads here. In the morn- 
ing everybody walks about the town — the streets are nar- 
row and it is amusing to be hailed from windows over 
small shops, grocers', bakers', watchmakers', by friends 
who are lodging there. About 3 a sort of restless excite- 
ment is in the air and one sees a long procession mount- 
ing the hill to the Opera House, everyone absorbed by 
the one idea. There are quantities of people we know. 
I didn't go and see Mdme. Wagner this time, as Henri- 
etta and Pauline don't know her. Her evenings, the off 
night, are very interesting. One sees all the distin- 
guished people of any kind at her house, all the artists, 
critics, etc. Of course no one ventures to criticise the 
music — merely the execution. 

Meingeningen, Biebrich, 
Sunday, August 15, 1897. 

I have been here two or three days and am glad to 
have some quiet hours in the garden after the fatigue 
and excitement of Bayreuth. Four Wagner operas in 
succession is a strain on one's brain (not that I wouldn't 
do it straight over again this week if I could, but one 
wants the rest between). The crowd at Bayreuth the 



386 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Aug. 

day we started was something wonderful, as of course 
everyone leaves after their serie — there is nothing to do 
or see in the town. At Nuremberg, too, the scramble 
to get something to eat was funny, as there were two 
courants, all of us leaving Bayreuth, and just as many 
more arriving to take our places. There is always a 
crowd at the Nuremberg station, though they have mul- 
tiplied little buffets outside the regular salles d'attente 
with coffee, beer, sausages, etc. We were late all along 
the line, and again there was such a crowd at the big 
Frankfort station that I could not get my trunks in time 
to take the first train for Mosbach — however, I arrived 
finally and was pleased to see Heinrich's broad, good- 
humoured face, and we drove at once to the house, where 
Mary was waiting for me with supper. We talked a 
little, but even that took us on to 2 o'clock, as it was 
after midnight when I arrived. 

We have seen various people, and made expeditions 
to Wiesbaden. We wrote to the Empress Frederick's 
lady-in-waiting the other day (Countess Perponcher, 
whom Mary knows very well) to say that I was here 
near Cronberg, and would be so pleased if the Empress 
would receive me. The answer has just come, asking me 
to lunch at Cronberg on Wednesday. I am delighted to 
go — first to see the Empress, and then to see the house, 
which is filled with beautiful things. The Empress has 
travelled so much, and been so much in Italy, and has 
bought all sorts of treasures. 

Tuesday, August 17, 1897. 

Last night we went to the opera at Wiesbaden. It was 
"Hansel and Gretel," beautifully given — the orchestra 
very good and the angel scene with all the angels coming 
down a sort of ladder and circling round the sleeping 



1897] "HANSEL AND GRETEL" 387 

children quite exquisite. It was a funny contrast to the 
London and Paris Opera. Mary and I started off about 
5.30 in ordinary summer dress — foulard and voile. We 
went to the great confectioner at Wiesbaden for our tea 
and cakes, and a little before 7 walked across to the 
Opera. There we took off our hats and jackets, hung 
them up on a little peg, found our seats without any 
trouble, and had a very pleasant evening. The entr'actes 
are much shorter than in France, so that we were out a 
little before 10. The drive home was lovely on a bright 
starlight summer night; about three-quarters of an 
hour. It was such an easy, independent way of going, 
without the complications of a man to go with us, ser- 
vant to take our cloaks, etc. I often think I should like 
to live a little in Germany, there is so much that I like in 
the country, and life seems so easy, though I believe Ger- 
man women wouldn't say so. They all seemed weighed 
down with cares, and apparently all with very small in- 
comes. I wonder if you have read Hauptmann's "Ver- 
sunkene Glocke"; I am fascinated by it. It was a little 
difficult reading at first on account of the sort of patois, 
but it is a wonderful book, so weird and full of senti- 
ment. I will finish my letter after our day at Cronberg. 

Thursday, August 19, 1897. 

We had a charming day ; I am so glad we went. We 
started a little after ten for Frankfort, where we had a 
wait of 20 minutes. I wore my black voile and a little 
black and jet toque in which I put a white aigrette, and 
white gloves, so as not to be too black. The trajet is 
short from Frankfort to Cronberg, about an hour. We 
found two carriages (rather pretty victorias in wood 
natural colour and cushions the same colour — they looked 
very chic and country) and tall powdered footmen in the 



388 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Aug. 

black and silver Imperial livery. There were two or 
three people in the second carriage whom I didn't recog- 
nise at first, but made out when we arrived. Val Prinsep, 
the artist, and his wife, a very pretty woman, and a Ger- 
man lady, also an artist I think. The Castle is not far 
from the station, and Cronberg (the town) is rather pict- 
uresque. The house is large — nothing particular in the 
way of architecture, but stands well in a fair-sized park. 
We were received in a fine hall, with pictures, carvings, 
and plenty of old furniture. Countess Perponcher and 
Baron Reischach received us. Count Seckendorff was 
not there, which I regretted, as I like him very much 
and should have been glad to see him again. Countess 
Perponcher took us to a small room on the ground floor 
where we left our parasols, wraps, etc., and then we went 
through one or two handsome rooms into a large salon 
where the company was already assembled. Lady Layard 
and her niece were staying in the house, also Prince 
Albert Solms (our old friend) with his wife. He is 
very ill, poor fellow, and can hardly get about. Some 
English friends arrived from Hombourg — Lady Cork, 
Lord Algy Lennox. About 1.30 the Empress came — 
always the same charming manner, and always her sad 
eyes. I thought she looked thinner and paler perhaps, 
but not ill. We went immediately to luncheon — the Em- 
press first, alone, all of us following. Baron Reischach 
sat opposite to her, between me and Lady Cork. The 
talk was easy, the Empress talking a great deal. Val 
Prinsep too did his share, and Lady Cork is always 
clever and original. After luncheon we went back 
to the big drawing-room and looked at some of the 
beautiful things. Angeli's last portrait of the Empress 
had just come and had been placed (temporarily only) 
in a corner where the light was not very good. It 




The Empress Frederick, wearing the Order of the 

Black Eagle. 

The last portrait of the Empress by the artist Anyeli. 



i8q73 THE EMPRESS FREDERICK 389 

is a fine picture — the Empress all in black with her 
splendid pearl necklace, seated on a sort of carved 
throne, or high-backed chair — all the shading dark, 
the only bit of colour the yellow ribbon of the Black 
Eagle. It is a striking picture and very like her, 
but so inexpressibly sad. She called each one of us in 
turn to come and sit by her. She spoke very warmly 
of W. to me, and asked me if I didn't regret my Lon- 
don life, and if I did not find it very difficult to settle 
down in France after having lived ten years in London, 
"the great centre of the world." It is curious how uni- 
versal that feeling is with English people (and "au 
fond," notwithstanding all the years she has lived in 
Germany, the Empress is absolutely English still in her 
heart). They think that life in England — London — 
spoils one for everything else. I told her I didn't think 
I was to be pitied for living in Paris — after all, my boy 
was a Frenchman and all his interests were in France. 
She asked about Francis, how old he was, and couldn't 
believe that I was going back to feter his 21 years, and 
thought it was fortunate for him that his early education 
had been in England. 

We talked a little about French literature — I think 
she reads everything — and she asked about Bayreuth, 
were there many French people there. I told her the 
Director of the Grand Opera, among others, who wants 
to have the "Meistersinger" in France, but Mdme. Wag- 
ner is rather unwilling — the choruses, she thinks, are too 
difficult either to translate or to sing with the true spirit 
in any other language. The Empress said, "She is quite 
right ; it is one of the most difficult of Wagner's operas, 
and essentially German in plot and structure. It scarcely 
bears translation in English and in French would be im- 
possible; neither is the music, in my mind, at all suited 



39° LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Aug. 

to the French character. The mythical legend of the 
Cycle would appeal more to the French, I think, than the 
ordinary German life." I daresay she is right. When 
she congedied me I talked some little time to Prince 
Solms, Reischach, and others. Then it was getting time 
for us to go, as we had to take the 4.30 train back to 
Frankfort. I was standing by the window, from which 
there is a fine open view over plain and woods, when the 
Empress came up to say good-bye. She supposed I was 
going back to France, where I would find my boy. "You 
are very fortunate to have him still with you; it gives 
such an interest to your life." She kissed me, and then 
said sadly, "My task is done — I am quite alone." I 
watched her go out of the room, across the hall, and up 
the great staircase, with her long black dress trailing be- 
hind, alone — as she said. It must be an awful solitude 
for her — living there in her beautiful house, filled with 
art treasures of all kinds, and with friends near all sum- 
mer at Hombourg, Wiesbaden, etc., who are only too 
happy to go to her — but her real life is over, and she is 
as far away from Germany and the throbbing pulse of 
the nation as if she were a cloistered nun. 

The Val Prinseps came away with us, and we made a 
bout de chemin together until they branched off to Hom- 
bourg. He has quite the same idea of the Empress; 
says "elle se ronge," that she had always had such aspira- 
tions and wanted to do so much for the intellectual life 
of Germany. Mary and I got to Frankfort in good time, 
and home for dinner. We were glad to prowl about in 
the garden after dinner, when it was deliciously cool and 
the air heavy almost with the scent of roses, of which she 
has quantities. We saw the Rhine and the lights of May- 
ence in the distance. I suppose this place too I shall 
never see again, as I think Mary has made up her mind 



i8 9 7] COWES 391 

to sell Meingeningen. I think she will settle in Ireland 
if she can get the old Townshend place where she was 
one summer. It is ideal, close on the sea, with a splendid 
park rising up behind the Castle, but will be a great 
change for her. 

To H. L. K. 

South Pavilion, West Cowes, 
August 9, 1900. 

We are becoming accustomed, Dear, to the wind and 
rain and a general damp feeling. I don't think I have 
been really dry since we left Paris. I live in my serge 
dress and a waterproof. I should have been quite com- 
fortable if I could have changed with the other one, but 
Bessie Talleyrand is disporting herself in it. When we 
arrived we found everyone in mourning for the Duke of 
Edinburgh, the first days not so marked, but since the 
Osborne has arrived with the Prince and Princess on 
board one sees nothing but black, and Bessie was much 
disgusted, having only blue. The steam launches and 
boats go all day between the yachts and the shore. 
Everyone, men and women, wears those remarkable yel- 
low mackintoshes; you can't tell them apart, and the 
boats look as if they were loaded with great yellow 
"ballots." The two American yachts, Nahma, Mrs. Goe- 
let, and Itwana, Mr. Armour, are splendid, enormous 
steamers and beautifully kept. Yesterday after lunch 
Bessie and I started in the wind and rain to drive over to 
Osborne and write ourselves down for the Queen. I am 
afraid I sha'n't see her, which will be a great disappoint- 
ment to me ; but the ladies here tell me she is much af- 
fected by the Duke of Edinburgh's death, and after all, 
the Prince has only just got back from his funeral. The 
drive through Cowes is not very interesting, through 



392 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Aug. 

dirty, smelly little streets; but once over the ferry 
(which one crosses in a boat large enough to take the 
Queen's carriage with four horses) it is pretty enough, 
up a long hill with fine trees and a few places. We didn't 
see the Castle, as of course we were stopped at the gates, 
which were open, with a policeman standing just inside. 
The park looked fine, grass and flower beds beautifully 
kept. We wrote ourselves down and I left a card for the 
Duchess of Roxburghe, who is in waiting. We went 
for tea to the Club garden, and there I saw the Duchess 
of Roxburghe, who told me the Queen would certainly 
see me. We dined quietly at home, rather a fancy meal, 
but we prefer that to going out. There is a nice little 
dining-room, and Joseph waits. How he gets on down- 
stairs with the three maiden ladies who run the establish- 
ment I don't know. He doesn't speak or understand 
one word of English and has never been out of France 
before. He went nearly mad over that remarkable rail- 
way journey of ours across country from Eastbourne to 
Cowes, where we changed about 10 times (all the lug- 
gage naturally being transferred each time), lost all our 
connections everywhere and arrived at Cowes at 10.30 
at night, having left Eastbourne at 2. He is much im- 
pressed with the uncleanliness of the house, and said to 
me just now, "Si Madame voyait les torchons sales dont 
on se sert pour essuyer les assiettes propres, Madame ne 
mangerait jamais a la maison." 

East Cowes, 
Sunday, August 12, 1900. 

I had two notes this morning, one from Miss Knollys 
saying the Princess would receive me, and one from 
Madame d'Arcos saying the Empress Eugenie would 
like us to come to tea with her on the Thistle at 5. I 



x9oo] THE PRINCESS ALEXANDRA 393 

had rather hesitated about writing myself down for the 
Empress. I had never seen her, and W. was in such 
violent opposition always to the Empire that I never saw 
any of the Imperial family; but Madame d'Arcos said 
Bessie and I were the only Frenchwomen at Cowes ; we 
had been everywhere — on the Osborne, to the Queen, 
etc., and it was rude not to do the same thing for the 
Empress — au fond, I was rather glad to have the oppor- 
tunity, as I had never seen her. We went to the club 
garden after church, as I wanted to find a friend who 
would lend me a steam launch to go out to the Os- 
borne. Lord Llangattock offered his, and also said he 
would take us to the Thistle for tea, as they were going 
on board to say good-bye to the Empress (they leave to- 
night). I wore my black and white foulard and a big 
black hat with feathers (never a sailor hat), which could 
go, as the day was fine and the sea smooth. The Prin- 
cess was not there when I arrived; she had gone to the 
service on the Victoria and Albert. Miss Knollys ap- 
peared and we sat some time talking on deck. I was 
leaning over the railing when the Royal launch arrived, 
and I was astounded, after all these years (7), at the 
appearance of the Princess. Just the same slight, youth- 
ful figure and light step. The Duke of York came for- 
ward first and talked a little. He was dressed in undress 
admiral's uniform and looked very well. Then the Prin- 
cess came, quite unchanged. She was simply dressed, in 
mourning, and looked quite as she did the last time I 
saw her, when she was also in mourning (for Prince 
Eddie). She kissed me, seemed pleased to see me, and 
we sat on two straw chairs, under the awning on the 
deck, talking about all sorts of things. She said the 
Duke of Edinburgh's death was a great grief to them. 
They were very fond of him, and it was sudden; and 



394 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Aug. 

spoke most sadly about the Empress Frederick, who 
seems to be dying, and of a cancer. It seems that she 
knows quite well what is the matter with her and what 
is before her, as she nursed her husband through his long 
malady. Isn't it awful? She spoke about Francis, re- 
calling his first afternoon at Marlborough House, when 
he was quite small and wept bitterly when the negro 
minstrels appeared. I told her he was working for 
diplomacy, and she said she would be much pleased to 
see him when he came to London as attache. 

The Prince came and talked a little while, and also 
recalled the last time we met last summer on the quai at 
Nuremberg, both coming from Marienbad, and swal- 
lowing hastily a cup of very hot coffee. I thought he 
looked grave and preoccupied. He talked a little about 
Cowes. He said he never remembered such a bad week 
— awful weather and few yachts. He was very compli- 
mentary about the two big American yachts, Itwana 
and Nahma; said he had never seen the Nahma, which 
he regretted, but he didn't know Mrs. Goelet — did I? 
"Oh yes, very well, ever since she was a child, and her 
mother and father before." I was sure she would be very 
pleased to receive them. The Prince said they were in 
such deep mourning that they had been on no yacht, and 
he hoped there would be no party. I said Mrs. Goelet 
herself was in deep mourning. After some consultation 
with the Princess they said they would like to go on 
board to-morrow morning at 12 o'clock (they leave early 
Tuesday morning), and I promised to speak to Mrs. 
Goelet. 

He was amused when I said I liked the "Japs" so 
much, as he rather invented them. They came to sing to 
him one summer when he was ill at Cowes and on his 
yacht all the time. There are four people, three women 



igoo] THE EMPRESS EUGENIE 395 

and a man (a Frenchman), all masked, the women in 
pretty Japanese dresses and the man in ordinary clothes- 
One woman accompanies at the piano by heart, and ex- 
tremely well ; the other two and the man sing and dance 
— dancing very moderate — a sort of "walk around," but 
the singing very good; all English except one or two 
little French songs the man sings alone. One of their 
favourite ditties, "Mary housemaid," always brings 
down the house. It is just the sort of thing that would 
have amused us in our young days when we used to play 
and sing by heart and invent steps. The women are 
very graceful — I don't know if they are pretty, as one 
never sees their faces — and the man extraordinary, very 
amusing and never vulgar. 

I think I must have been a long time on the yacht, and 
nothing could be more gracious and sympathetic than the 
Princess. She told me the Queen would certainly re- 
ceive me. I hadn't more than time to get back where 
Bessie and Borghese were very hungry waiting for 
luncheon, and to start again at 4; this time with Bessie 
and the Llangattocks for the Thistle. We were re- 
ceived by Madame d'Arcos, Mile. Darauvilliers, and M. 
Rambaut. They told us the Empress had a cold and was 
very hoarse; had been forbidden by the doctor to come 
on deck, and also to talk, but that she would receive us 
in the cabin. We went down almost immediately, pre- 
ceded by Madame d'Arcos, who said we must not stay 
long, as the Empress ought not to talk. She was stand- 
ing in her cabin, still a handsome, stately figure, with 
beautiful brow and eyes, and charming manner, more 
animated than I had imagined. She was very well 
dressed in black. She made us sit down and talked her- 
self a great deal, always about Paris, the Bassanos 
(speaking most warmly of the Duke), d'Albuferas, and 



39& LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Aug. 

various mutual friends. She knew Francis was to work 
for diplomacy, and said she could wish him nothing bet- 
ter than to walk in his father's footsteps. We were afraid 
we were tiring her, as she talked all the time. Twice the 
"dame d'honneur" appeared, but she waved her away. 
When she finally dismissed us she said "Je ne dirai pas 
adieu, mais au revoir" — regretted very much that she 
could not come on deck and have tea with us, but that we 
must certainly stay. We had a pleasant half hour talk- 
ing with the others, and then there came a message from 
her begging that we would take her launch and cruise 
about in the harbour. I accepted gladly, as I wanted to 
communicate with the Nahma and didn't exactly know 
how to manage. The French ladies too wished to see the 
American yacht, so off we started in the Empress's launch. 
It seemed funny after all these years to be suddenly 
thrown with the Empress and her suite and careering 
about in her launch. Mrs. Goelet was not on board, but 
the steward took the visitors all over the yacht, and I dis- 
covered Mrs. Warren and told her that the Prince and 
Princess would like to go on board to-morrow — she said 
she was quite sure her daughter would be very happy 
to see them. I found a note from the Duchess of Rox- 
burghe when I got home, saying that the Queen would 
receive me to-morrow at 4.30 at Osborne, so my day 
will be full, as I told Mrs. Goelet I would come to the 
Nahma to present her to the Prince and Princess. 

To H. L. K. 

East Pavilion, Cowes, Isle of Wight, 
Monday, August 13, 1900. 

Well, Dear, I am just back from Osborne. I have the 
salon all to myself, Bessie and Borghese are out, and I 



i 9 oo] AN AUDIENCE AT OSBORNE 397 

will write you all about my audience while it is fresh in 
my memory, but I must begin at the beginning and tell 
you about the Royal visit to the Nahma, which went off 
very well. A little before twelve Mr. Warren, Mrs. Goe- 
let's brother, came for us and we went off at once to the 
yacht. The Royal party arrived very punctually, Prince 
and Princess, Duke and Duchess of York, Princess Vic- 
toria, and various gentlemen. They were all delighted 
with the yacht, particularly the Duke of York, who saw 
everything. He called an officer of the Osborne to see 
some arrangement of signals which it seems is wonder- 
ful, and said they had nothing so perfect in the Royal 
Yacht. Mrs. Goelet did the honours very well and sim- 
ply, receiving the Princes at the gangway, with her son 
and daughter on each side of her, a pretty, graceful figure 
in her plain black dress. I remained on board to lunch 
after the Princes departed, and they sent me ashore at 
2.30 as I had just time to dress and go to Osborne. 

I started again a little before 4, wearing my black 
taffetas trimmed with lace and a tulle bonnet and white 
aigrette (quite costume de ville — I could not go to the 
Queen in a serge skirt and big hat). I took Joseph with 
me in plain black livery. We arrived quite in time, as 
there was no delay at the ferry this time, and the large 
gates were open, the man making a sign to us to drive 
in. There were two or three policemen standing near the 
gate and in the park. The park is pretty — not very large 
but beautifully green, and as we got near the house, 
quantities of flowers — a mass of colour. The house is 
not handsome — rather imposing, a large grey stone 
house with two wings, and flower-beds close up to the 
windows. Three or four footmen in plain black livery 
were waiting in the hall, and they took me at once up- 
stairs to the ladies' drawing-room — a nice room at the 



398 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Aug. 

side of the house not looking out to sea. The Duchess 
of Roxburghe was waiting for me, and we talked about 
fifteen minutes. Then came a Highland servant saying, 
"Her Majesty was ready to receive Lady Waddington." 
The Duchess and I went downstairs, walked through 
various galleries, and stopped at a door where there was 
no servant. The Duchess knocked, the Queen's voice 
said, "Come in," and I found myself in a beautiful large 
salon, all the windows opening on the sea. The Queen, 
dressed as usual in black, was seated in the middle of the 
room facing the door. I had barely time to make one 
curtsey — she put out her hand and made me sit down 
next to her. She spoke to me first in French (just as 
she always did when I was at the Embassy — to mark, I 
suppose, that I was the French Ambassadress), "Je suis 
tres heureuse de vous revoir — I think we can speak Eng- 
lish — how much has happened since we met" ; and then 
we talked about all sorts of things. I thought she looked 
extremely well — of course I couldn't tell if her sight was 
gone, as she knew I was coming and I sat close to her. 
Her eyes were blue and clear, and her memory and con- 
versation quite the same. She thanked me for my letter ; 
said the Duke of Edinburgh's death was a great blow to 
her. It was so sudden, she had not thought him ill. She 
had lost three children all very dear to her, and it was 
hard at her age to see her children go before her. She 
spoke at once (so moderately) of the caricatures and 
various little incidents that had occurred in France. I 
said I was very glad to have an opportunity of telling 
her that everybody in France (except for a few hot- 
headed radicals and anti-English) was most indignant 
at such gratuitous insults not only to the Queen but to 
a woman. She said she quite understood that — that 
wherever she had been in France everybody had done 



i9oo] QUEEN VICTORIA IN 1900 399 

what they could to make her stay happy and comfortable ; 
that she never could forget it, and hoped the French 
nation felt that — also that she would never dream of 
holding the country responsible for the radical press, but 
"my children and my people feel it very deeply." We 
talked about the King of Italy's murder (she was much 
pleased with the expression in one of the Italian papers 
"e morto in piedi") and she expressed great sympathy 
for Queen Margherita — "She is fond of Italy and is al- 
ways thinking and planning what she can do for the 
people." We also talked about the Shah and the attentat 
in Paris. I said that left me rather indifferent, but she 
answered instantly, "You are quite wrong — it is the 
principle, not the person, that is attacked in those cases." 
I then remarked that it was a great pity, I thought, that 
one of those gentlemen (anarchists, not sovereigns) 
shouldn't be lynched; that I believed the one thing they 
were afraid of was the justice of the people. She said, 
"That is not a very Christian sentiment" ; but I think 
she didn't altogether disagree with me. She asked me 
about Francis — was he working for diplomacy ; and then, 
I don't know exactly how, we began talking about mixed 
marriages. She said she didn't think religion ought to 
be an invincible obstacle. I said I thought with her, but 
that French Protestants were very strict. I told her it 
had been said that my husband, who was certainly a very 
large-minded man in most things, was really narrow 
about Catholics. She said, with such a charming smile, 
"Oh, I can't think M. Waddington was ever narrow 
about anything, I always thought him one of the most 
large-minded, just men I ever knew." I must say I was 
pleased, and W. always felt that for some reason or 
another he was sympathetic to her. We talked a little 
about the Empress Frederick ; she said the last news was 



400 LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE [Aug. 

better, but she evidently didn't want to pursue the sub- 
ject. We talked on some little time, and when she finally 
dismissed me, she said, "I hope you will come back to 
England, and whenever you do I shall be very glad to see 
you.'' She shook hands — I backed myself to the door, 
opened it, and there found the Highland servant, who 
took me back to the drawing-room where the Duchess 
of Roxburghe was waiting. She suggested that, we 
should go for a turn in the garden, and when she went 
to get her hat I looked about the room, which is quite 
plainly furnished — a grand piano, comfortable furniture, 
not pretty, and no particular style. 

We walked about the gardens a little, which are pretty, 
such quantities of flowers, and had tea under the trees. 
Two of the ladies came out — Mrs. Grant and Miss 
Harbord. They were very anxious to know if I found 
the Queen changed after seven years, but I really can't 
say I did. My impression is that they find her older. 
They say she felt the Duke of Edinburgh's death very 
much, and that she is very worried about the Empress 
Frederick, though she doesn't talk much about her. It 
was lovely sitting under the trees, so cool and quiet after 
the noise and glare of Cowes. All the people bowed as 
we drove home through Cowes. I think they took Jo- 
seph in his black livery for one of the Queen's servants. 

I must tell you that Joseph and Elise are also moving 
in high society. Joseph came with a most smiling face 
to me Saturday night to say that one of his friends 
was chef on the Empress's yacht (the Thistle) and had 
invited them to breakfast on Sunday on the yacht. I 
said they could go, and when Bessie and I were going to 
church we saw them start — he in the regulation Cowes 
blue serge costume (not the short, very short, Eton jacket 
which is the dress attire of the Club men) and yellow 



i9oo] DEATH OF THE QUEEN 401 

shoes, and she in my old purple foulard, with a very nice 
little toque. A very smart little boat was waiting for 
them. 

Now, my Dear, I must stop, as I am exhausted, and a 
perfect Mrs. Jellyby, papers flying all over the place, as 
I am writing at the open window, and ink all over me, 
fingers, hair, etc. I can't say, as Madame de Sevigne 
did, "ma plume vole," for mine stops and scratches, and 
makes holes in the paper, and does everything it can to 
make my writing difficult. I wonder why I hate it so — 
I do — as soon as I sit down to my writing-table I want 
to go out or play on the piano, or even crochet little petti- 
coats — anything rather than write. I suppose I shall 
never see the Queen again — at her age it isn't very likely, 
especially if I wait another seven years without coming 
over. I am glad she received me, it was a great pleasure. 



Note. 

Paris, 29, Rue Auguste Vacquerie, 
Dimanche, 29 Decembre, 1901. 

Of course I never saw the Queen again. She began 
to fail that same autumn (1900) after her return home 
from Balmoral, and died at Osborne the 22d of Janu- 
ary, 1901 — a beautiful death, painless, sleeping away and 
all her children and grandchildren with her. It isn't only 
the Queen who has disappeared — it is the century. Eng- 
land will enter on a new phase — but it must be different 
from the chapter that has just closed. 



INDEX 



d'A , Countess, 235 

A , Lady, 214, 235 

A , Lord, experience on the 

House of Lords boat at the 
Naval Review, 264, 265 

A , Mdme., 87, 89, 122 

Aberdeen, Lady, 313 

Aberdeen, Lord, 216 

Abinger, Lord and Lady, 172 

Adams, 234 

Adelaide, Mile., 7, 10 et passim 

d'Agoult, 343 

Albanesi, 234 

Albani, 242, 243 

Albany, Duke and Duchess of, 
179; death of the Duke, 206 

Albert, Arch Duke and Arch 
Duchess, of Austria, 56; inci- 
dent in Paris, 57 

Albert, Prince, 177; tomb, 239 

Albert Solms, Prince, 388 

Albert Victor, Prince, Duke of 
Clarence, 184, 186, 218, 237; ill- 
ness, 333; engagement to Prin- 
cess May, 333; death, 334; fu- 
neral, 336; sarcophagus, 369 

d'Albuferas, 395 

Alexander III., Emperor of Rus- 
sia, 4; the procession to the 
Kremlin, 44-46; danger from 
the Nihilists, 52, 53; corona- 
tion of, 65-67; the breakfast 
following the Coronation, 68- 
70; the reception after the Cor- 
onation, 71-73; at the Court 



Ball, 74, 75; at the great ball 
at the Palace, 78; the Fete 
Populaire, 82; at the Palace 
ball, 86-90; the gala dinner, 93, 
94; the revue, 102-104; bis 
home at Peterhof, 116, 117 

Alexander, Prince, of Batten- 
berg, 236 

Alexis, Grand Duke, at the coro- 
nation of his brother, Emperor 
Alexander III., 66; at the Pal- 
ace ball, 86 

Alice, Princess, of Hesse, 239 

Amedee, King, 92 

Amelie, Princess, of Schleswig- 
Holstein, 326 

Ampthill, Lord and Lady, 17, 
281, 282 

Anne, , 5 

Antrim, Lady, 310, 312 

d'Aoste, Due, 6; described, 91, 
92, 361 

Appert, General, 145, 148, 153 

Appert, Madame, 153, 154; her 
daughters, 154 

d'Arcos, Madame, 395 

Armour, Mr., 391 

Arran, Lady, 377 

Arthur, Sir George, 375, 277, 
382 

Ashburton, Lady, 349 

Ashburton, Lady Louisa, 242 

Astor, Mrs. 357 

Augusta, Empress, 18 

d'Aumale, Due, 217, 303, 304 



403 



404 



INDEX 



Baden, Grand Duchess of, 18 

Baldwin, Admiral, 58, 120, 142; 
entertains the Waddingtons 
and others on his flagship, 120- 
123; impressions of the Coro- 
nation, 137 

Baldwin, Mrs., 151 

Barrington, Mr. Eric, 329, 337 

Bassanos, 395 

Bayard, Mr., 377 

Beatrice, Princess, 176, 177, 192, 
195; at the opening of Parlia- 
ment, 237; at Windsor Castle, 
238, 311 

Bedford, Duchess of, 236, 257, 
280 

Bedford, Duke of, 280, 281 

Belgians, King of the, 249 

Belgians, Queen of the, 256 

Benckendorff, Colonel, 34 et pas- 
sim 

Berard, M., 24, 26 

Beresford, Lord Charles, 296 

Bernadotte, 138 

Bernhardt, Mdme. Sarah, 135 

Bille, Elsa de, 317, 323 

Bille, Mdme. de, 315, 326 

Bismarck, 15; talks with M. Wad- 
dington, 17, 18, 21; friction with 
the Empress, 268 

Bismarck, Herbert, 243 

Bleichroeder, 19 

Blennerhasset, Lady, 340 

Blumenthal's, 302 

Bohm, 281, 282 

Boleyn, Anne, 175 

Bondy, M. de, 140, 142 

Borghese, 395 

Borthwick, Lady, 251, 271, 272 

Boston, Lord, 218 

Boulanger, 267, 268, 296 

Bowen, Judge, 367 

Braganza, Duchesse de, 256 



Brandt, Mr., 163 

Brasseys, 187 

Brennen, Mme. and Mile, de, 203 

Bridge, Dr., 348 

Brown, Mrs., 169 

Brown, John, tablet in memory 

of, 239 
Brownlows, 346 
Bryce, Mr., 307 
Btetju, Count, 244 
Buccleuch, Duchess of, 237, 257 
"Buffalo Bill," 243 
Bulgaria, Prince of, 218 
Biilow, 337 

Bunsen, George de, 15, 16, 17 
Bunsen, Mile. Beatrice de, 285 
Bunsen, Mary de, 386, 300 
Burns, Walter, 295 
Burtons, 354 

Bury, Mile, de, "sur Racine," 212 
Bylandt, Comte de, at the Naval 

Review, 261, 265 
Bylandt, Comtesse de, 203, 220, 

222, 259, 338 
Byng, Colonel, 252, 369 

C , Lord, Indian Secretary. 

252 

Calmon, Robert, 7, 95 

Cambridge, Duchess of, 180 

Cambridge, Duke of, 189, 195. 
201, 236, 246, 258 

Cameron, Sir Roderick, 283, 286 ; 
in Scotland, 287 et seq. 

Campbell, Mr., 207 

Carlingford, Lord, 184 

Canterbury, Archbishop of, 355, 
356 

Carpe, 272 

Carrington, Lord, 346 

Catherine II., 90, 95 

Cavendish, Lord Frederick, mur- 
der of, 3 



INDEX 



405 



Cecil, Lady Gwendoline, 306 
Cecil, Lady Margaret, 218, 231, 

232 
Cecil, Lord Edward, 303 
Chaine, Col., 337 
Chambord, Comte de, illness of, 

156; death, 159, 170 
Charles IX., 143 
Charles Louis, Arch Duke and 

Arch Duchess, of Austria, 88, 

93, 96; at the Coronation of 

Emperor Alexander, 66; at the 

Court ball, 74; drive with the 

Empress at the revue, 103 
Chemin, 11 

Chesterfield, Lord, 219 
Chetwode, Sir George and Lady, 

172 
Chigi, Marchesa, 358 
Childers, Mr., 182 
Christian, Prince, of Schleswig- 

Holstein, 266, 368 
Christian, Princess, 254, 266, 368 
Churchill, Lady, 192 
Clanwilliam, Lady, 315 
Clark, Stanley, 363 
Colocotroni, Mile., 71 
Compans, Ternaux, 125 
Connaught, Duchess of, 368 
Connaught, Duke of, 236; at the 

Jubilee Te Deum, 249; as a 

soldier, 258 
Constantine, Grand Duchess, 60, 

61, 80, 87, 88, 94 
Constantine, Grand Duke, 60, 61 
Corcelle, Francois de, 7, 13, 95 
Cork, Lady, 388 
Cork, Lord, 197 
Correa, Brazilian Minister, 270 
Corti, Ambassador, 239, 240 
Courcel, Mdme. de, 16, 18, 20, 21, 

159, 162 
Courcel, M. de, 14, 15, 159, 162 



Coutouly, M., 325, 127 
Coventry, Lord, 279, 357 
Cowell, Sir John, 191, 192 
Cranborne, Lady, 306 
Cranborne, Lord, 255 
Cumming, Jean Gordon, 235 
Curzon, Lord and Lady, 310 

D , Count, Austrian Ambas- 
sador, 236 

Dalhousie, Lord, 192, 193 

Darauvilliers, Mile., 395 

Deichmann, Baron, 268, 344 

Deichmann, Baroness Hilda, 208, 
222, 253; described, 210 

Deichmann, Elsa, 317 

Deichmann, Hilda, 254, 255, 321 

Deichmann, Wilhelm, 351 

Delamere, Lady, 354 

Delawarr, Lord and Lady, 201 

Denmark, Crown Prince of, 305 

Denmark, King of, 249 

Derby, Lady, reception at home 
of, 210, 211; entertains at 
Knowsley, 228-232 

Derby, Lord, 218, 231, 232 

Deroulede, 314 

Deym, Bianca, 317, 318, 320 

Deym, Countess, 315, 329 

Dolgourouky, Prince, 96 

Dubois, Marie, 203 

Dudzeele, Countess, dances with 
the Emperor at the Court ball, 

74 

Dufferin, Lord and Lady, enter- 
tain at Walmer Castle, 358-360; 
rank, 371 

Duncan, 287 

Dupoutet, 347 

Eames, Miss, 295, 314 
Edinburgh, Duchess of, 88, 103, 
192, 200, 203 



4-o6 



INDEX 



Edinburgh, Duke of, 6, 45, 93, 
103, 203, 236, 254; daughters, 
249; at the Jubilee Te Deum, 
249; death, 391, 393 

Edward, Prince, of Saxe-Wei- 
mar, 203, 357 

Edwardes, Gay, 317, 318, 336 

Edwardes, Henry, 319 

Edwardes, Mrs., 323 

Erard, 320 

Erroll, Lady, 176 

Esher, Lord, 242 

d'Estournelles, 325, 328 

d'Estournelles, Mdme., 326, 328 

Eugenie, Empress, 266; at Cowes, 
395, 396 

Eulenbourg, Count, 81 

Eulenbourg, Countess, 324 

Falbe, Mme. de, 232, 233 
Falbe, M. de, 232, 233, 305 
Fawkes, Guy, confession, 242 
Fayet, Commandant, 7 
Fife, Duke of, 276; engagement 
to Princess Louise, 301 ; mar- 
riage, 305 
Florian, Count de, 194, 207, 253, 

259, 278, 283 
Florian, Countess de, 253, 259, 
262, 278, 283, 306; at White 
Lodge, 341, 342 
Forbes, 233 

Forges, M. Blanchard de, 226 
Francis, Miss W., 287 
Frangois d' Assises, King, 92 
Frederick, Empress, Crown 
Princess, 250, 252; described, 
253; visit to Versailles, 309; at 
Windsor, 310-312, 368; lunch- 
eon at Ferdinand Rothschild's, 
314; receives the Waddingtons, 
378; at Cronberg. 387-390; ill- 
ness, 394 



Frederick III., Emperor, Crown 
Prince, 250, 251; failing health, 
254, 266, 267; death, 282; funer- 
al service, 282, 283 

Frederica, Princess, of Hanover, 
204 

Frederick Charles, Prince, 243 

Frederick Charles, Princess, 20 

Freeman, Violet, 321 

Froude, J. A., 229; on America, 
231 

Galitzin, Prince, 49 

Gardner, Lady Winifred, 346 

Gayare, 242 

Gennadius, 336 

George II., 267 

George, Prince, 200, 237, 337; re- 
port of marriage to Princess 
May, 362 

Gevers, Baron, 338 

Ghika, Princess, 222 

Giers, M. de, 58, 76 

Gilbert, 369 

Gille, Mdme., 107 

Gladstone, Mr. W. E., described, 
3; versatility, 181, 182; gives a 
reception, 188, 189; dines at 
Mr. Murray's, 315; age, 346; 
makes his great Irish speech, 
363 

Gladstone, Mrs. W. E., 3, 189, 
346; gives a dinner for the 
Archbishop of Canterbury, 355, 
356 

Gladstone, Wm., 172 

Glinka's opera, "La Vie pour le 
Czar," 69, 75, 80 

Goelet, Mrs., 391; receives the 
Royal party aboard the Nahma, 

397 
Gordon, "Chinese," murder of, 
199 



INDEX 



407 



Goschens, 184 
Gower, Mr. Leveson, 172 
Grant, General U. S., death, 218 
Grant, Mrs., 400 
Granville, Countess, 195 
Granville, Earl, entertains M. 
Waddington, 170, 171 ; 190, 185, 

273 
Greece, King of, 256, 260, 305 
Greece, Queen of, 71, 77, 80, 93; 

described, 72; at the Court 

ball, 74 
Greene, Plunkett, 302 
Grey, Lady Jane, 175 
Grieg, 273 

Griswold, Miss Gertrude, 234 
Grondal, Mdme., 302 
Guillemain, M., 348 

Halsbury, 237 

Hamilton, Duchess of, 236 

Hamilton, Lord and Lady Claud, 

201 
Harbord, Miss, 400 
Harcourt, Lady, 174; presents 

Mme. Waddington to the 

Queen, 175, 176, 177 
Harcourt, Sir William, 174 
Hare, the actor, 346 
Hartington, Lord, 199, 268, 310, 

3ii 
Hatzfeldt, Comte, 16, 303, 314, 

325; at Hatfield, 330, 331 
Hawaiian Secretary, 245 
Hayter, Lord and Lady, 183, 200 

Henrietta , 10 et passim 

Henry, Prince, of Battenberg, 

204, 236, 368, 2,72, 
Herberts, Ivor, 273 
Heretier, Grand Duke, 103 
Herkomer, his studio and pupils, 

344-346 
Herschell, Lady, 359 



Herschell, Lord, 366, 378 

Heurtel, Mme., 261 

Hoffman, Col. and Mrs., 147, 154, 

I5S, 156 
Hollman, 276 
Hubert, 7, et passim 
Hubert, Mdme., 5, 10 
Huddlestone, Lady Diana, 279 
Humlicher, Marie, 374, 375 
Hunt, Mr. and Mrs., 37, 58, 83, 

120 
Hurlbert, Mr., 181, 182 

Isabella, Queen, 92 
Ivan the Terrible, 91 

Jansen, Mile., 377 

Jaures, Admiral, 36, 94, 105; his 
hospitality, 118 

Jaures, Mdme., 36, 37, 80, 88, 117: 
at the Court ball, 74; aboard 
the Lancaster, 122 

Jay. Anna, 39 

Jersey, Lady, 187, 203; expe- 
riences at receptions, 211 

Jersey, Lord, 187 

Jeune, Mr. and Mrs., 218. 266 

Jeune, Sir Francis, 367 

Joachim, 272 

Johore, Maharajah of, 216 

Jomini, M., 120 

Joseph, 7 

Joy, Mr., 14 

Jusserand, J. J., 276, 277, 286, 380 

Juteau, 191, 216 

Kapilani, Queen, of the Sandwich 

Islands, 245, 249, 255, 256 
Karolyi, Count, 226, 240, 241 
Karolyi, Count Victor, 240 
Karolyi, Countess Fanny, 189, 
195, 220, 240, 241 



408 



INDEX 



Karolyi. Nadine, 226 
Kenmare, Lord, 192 
Kergorlay, M. de, 145, 147, 155; 

his children, 150, 152, 156 
Khiva, Khan of, 75 
Kimberley, Lord and Lady, 192 
King, Rufus, 179 
Kleeberg, Mme., 270 
Knollys, Miss, 179, 184, 320, 363 
Knowles, 246 
Knowles, James, 366 
Kntttsford, Lord, 268 
Kotchoubey, Princess, 49-51, 58, 

82, 88 
Kufstein, Count, 269 

Lacour, Challemel, Ministre des 
Affaires Etrangeres, appoints 
M. Waddington Ambassador 
Extraordinary to Moscow, 5 

Lagrene, M., 32, 95 

La Iglesia, M. de Casa, 220, 223, 
2 75; appointed Ambassador, 
306 

Langhe, Mile, de, 285; helps with 
the children's comedy, 315 et 
seq. 

Lasteyrie, 347 

Lataings, 338 

Lathom, Lord, 237, 252; on the 
Jubilee ceremonies, 258, 259 

Lawrence, Mrs., 148 

Lawrence, Anna, 317 

Layard, Lady, 388 

Lecky, Mr., 229 

Lecomte, M., 298, 299, 319 

Leeds, Duke and Duchess of, 
201 

Leeven, Baron, 118 

Leigh, Tom, 269 

Leighton, Sir Frederick, 310 

Lennox, Lord Algy, 388 

Leroy, Mr., 7 



Le Valloit, Mdme., 272 

Levisohn, Mile., organizes a "toy 
symphony," 351 et seq. 

Lhermite, M., 8 

Lincoln, Mr., 340, 377, 380 

Lind, Letty, 271 

Linden, Countess, 85 

Lionel, Lord, 232 

Llangattock, Lord, 393 

Lloyd, 276 

Lloyd, Lady Mary, 349 

Lomatch, M., 126 

London, Lord Mayor and May- 
oress of, 364, 365. 307 

Londonderry, Lady, 303, 315 

Lonsdale, Lady, 184 

Lome, Lord, 271, 302, 366 

Louis Philippe, 171 

Louise, Princess, 200, 271; an- 
nouncement of her engagement, 
301; marriage, 305; at Kensing- 
ton, 379 

Lowell, James Russell, 180, 202, 
242; death of his wife, 200 

Lowell, Mrs., 180; death of, 200 

Lyons, Lord, 3, 98, 183 

Lytton, Lord, 183, 372 

Mackay, Mr. and Mrs., 37, 58 

MacMahon, Marechal, 6, 7 

Magdalen, Master of, 184 

Malagache Embassy, 21 

Manners, Lord and Lady John, 
218 

Mansouroff, Madame, 43 

Margaretta, Princess, 311 

Margherita, Queen, 399 

Marochetti, Italian Minister, 153 

Mary of Teck, Princess, 244, 251 ; 
described, 275; at White Lodge, 
341, 342, 362; opens the French 
bazaar, 273', tea at Mme. Wad- 
dington's, 377, 378 



INDEX 



409 



Mary, Queen, "Bloody Mary," 
letter to Cardinal Pole, 242 

Mary, Queen of Scots, portraits 
of, 288 

Massanet, 295 

Mathias, M., 134, 135, 136 

Maud, Princess, 320, 330 

Mavrocordato, 25 

May, Princess, 244, 275; engage- 
ment to the Duke of Clarence, 
333', grief for, 341, 342; rumour 
of marriage to Prince George, 
362, 3Jj; at the French bazaar, 

374 
Mazo, del, Spanish Ambassador, 

368 
Mead, Lady J., 317 
Mecklenburg, Duke and Duchess 

Paul of, 271, 272, 273 
Mensdorff, 2>77 
Merindol, 348 
Methuen, Lord, 176 
Michel, Grand Duchess, receives 

Mme. Waddington, 59, 60, 87; 

described, 94 
Michel, Grand Duke, 87 
Mitford, Mrs., 340, 342 
Mohrenheim, M. de, Russian Am- 
bassador, 179, 184; at Windsor 

Castle, 191, 192 
Mohrenheim, Madame de, 185, 

191, 192, 193 
Molesworth, Lady, 217 
Moltke, 131, 154 
Monaco, Princess of, 326 
Monk, Mr. Charles, 172, 174 
Monk, Miss Julia, 172, 173, 201 
Montebello, 372 
Montpensier, Due de, 6, 43, 46, 

93 

Montrose, Duchess of, 203 
Mostyn, Mrs., 378 
Moulin, M., 125 



Miinster, German Ambassador, 

179, 180, 239 
Murray, Mr., 315 

Naidillac, Marquis de, 326 

Nannie, 352 

Neruda, Mdme., 272 

Newcastle, Duke and Duchess of, 
306 

Newman, 308 

Nigra, Italian Ambassador, 37, 
68, 80, 82, 97; describes Rus- 
sian society, 98; in London, 
179; at Windsor Castle, 192; de- 
parture for Vienna, 223 

Noccomore, Commandant, 261 

Nordica, 276, 284 

Northbrook, Lord, 183 

Northcote, Lady, 306, 314 

Northcote, Sir Stafford, 189 

Northumberland, Lord, 360 

Oborlenski, Princess, 43, 52 
Oldenburg, Duchess of, 61, 88, 

103 
Oppenheim, Mrs., 284 
Orleans Princes, 274 
Orloff, Prince, 9, 53, 96, 101 
d'Orval, M., 108 
Ourousoff, Prince, 105 

P , Lady, 213 

P , Lizzie, 243 

Pahlen, Count, 49, 51, 54 
Pahlen, Countess, 55, 58, 96 
Palmerston, Lord, 171 
Paris, Comte de, 159, 274, 275 
Pasquier, Due d'Audifret, 274 
Patenotre, M., 135, 139; charac- 
terises the Swedes, 140, 141 ; 
bids farewell to the Wadding- 
tons, 143 
Paul, Mr., aide-de-camp, 58, 120 



4io 



INDEX 



Paulucci, Marquis, 352, 377 
Pawel-Rammingen, Baron, 204 
Peel, Sir Robert, his daughter, 

201 
Pepys, Lady Mary, 285 
Percy, Countess, 360 
Perier, Mdme. Casimir, 277 
Perponcher, Countess, 310, 314, 

388 
Persia, Grand Vizier of, 303 
Persia, Shah of, at the Court Ball, 

301; arrival by water, 301, 302; 

luncheon party at Hatfield in 

his honour, 302-304 
Peter the Great, portraits of, 118, 

119 
Petiteville, 226 
Petre, Mr. Henry, 313 
Pfeffer, 351 
Phelps, Edward J., American 

Ambassador, 238, 239 
Phelps, Marguerite, 317 
Phelps, Mrs., 238, 239, 247 
Phillipe, the coiffeur, 12 
Picolellis, 272, 275 
Pierson, 7 

Pina, M. de, 159, 162, 163 
Pittie, General, 7, 24, 67, 98 
Plunkett, Mr., 4 
Ponsonby, Sir Henry, 176, 177, 

237 
Pontavice, 320 326, 327 
Pontecoulant, Comte de, 7, 10, 20 

et passim; death of his brother, 

94; his death, 208 
Portland, Duke of, 202, 237 
Pourtales, Comte Jacques de, 233 
Poutel, Mdme. du, 373 
Powell, Mr. Price W., 172 
Praed, Mr., 218 
Prince Imperial of Germany, 18, 

19 
Probyn, Sir Digby, 179, 3&3 



Quirim, Miss, 333 

Radziwill, 91, 162 

Radziwill, Princess, 22 

Rambaut, M., 395 

Randolph Churchill, Lady, 377 

Regnier, Arch Duke, of Austria, 

259 

Reischach, Baron, 388, 390 
Renan, 309 
Reszke, Jean de, 315 
Ribot, 372 

Richard, Mdme., 320 
Richelieu, Duchesse de, 306 
Richter, General. 101, 116 
Rizzio, murder of, ,288 
Roffy, Mrs., 316, 317, 321 
Rogers, aide-de-camp, 58, 120 
Rogers, Canon, 297; takes Mme. 
Waddington through Petticoat 
Lane, 298, 299; his good work, 
299, 300 
Ronalds, Mrs., 272 
Rosebery, Lady, 204; gives a ball, 

255 
Rosebery, Lord, 255, 256 
Rothschild, Ferdinand, 314 
Rothschild, Lord, 268 
Roustan, naval attache, 268 
Rudolph, Prince, 247 
Roxburghe, Duchess of, 257, 392, 

398 
Russia, Empress of, 45; corona- 
tion of, 65-67; at the Corona- 
tion breakfast, 67-70; versatility 
as a linguist, 73; at the Court 
ball, 74, 75; at the great ball, 
78; gives a tea between the acts 
at the Opera, 80; at the gala 
dinner, 93, 94; drives without 
escort, 98 ; at the revue, 103, 104 
Rustem Pacha, 235, 330, 366 
Rutland, Duchess of, 304 



INDEX 



411 



Sagan, Duke of, 159 

St. Albans, Duchess of, 2>77 

St. Clair, Lady Harriet, 179 

St. Genys, 276, 306, 315, 316 

St. Vallier, 15, 17 

Salisbury, Lady, gives reception, 
210, 211; entertains the Wad- 
dingtons at Hatfield, 215, 216; 
luncheon party in honour of the 
Shah, 302-304; on the ice, 306, 
307; gives luncheon for the 
German Emperor, 329-332; de- 
sire for rest, 356; crosses the 
channel, 362; makes a speech, 
376 

Salisbury, Lord, 189; speaks in 
the House of Lords, 201, 202; 
at opening of Parliament, 237; 
reception, 243; entertains the 
Shah, 303; and the German 
Emperor, 329-331 

Sancy, M. de, 20, 159, 162 

Sanderson, Miss, 295 

Sanderson, Mr. Thomas, SS7 

Sandford, Mr., 143 

Sarasate, 272 

Saxe-Weimar, Prince Herman, 

254 
Say, Leon, 3 
Scalchi, 242 
Scarlett, Miss, 172, 173 
Schimmelpenninck, M., 27, 29, 30, 

58, 122 
Schubert, 345 
Schuster, Frank, 276 
Schuyler, 308 
Schweinitz, General, 39, 80, 83; at 

the Coronation Breakfast, 70; 

at the Court ball, 73 
Schweinitz, Madame, 81 
Seckendorff, Count, 310, 312, 313, 

314, 337 
Sefton, Lord, 231 



Segur, Comte Paul de, 274 

Serge, Grand Duchess, 256 

Sermet, M., 125 

Sesmaisons, Colonel Comte de, 7. 
: 3- I 5, 95 & passim 

Seymour, Admiral, 89 

Seymour, Lord William, 382 

Seymour, Sir Francis, 202 

Sheridan, May, 247 

Smith, W. H., holds a political 
reception, 269, 270 

Solvyns, Baron, 336, 381 

Somaglia, Countess, 361 

Southampton, Lady, 370 

Soveral, Portuguese Minister, 
314, 330, 33i 

Spain, King of, death of, 220 

Spencer, Countess, 330, 369 

Staal, M. de, Russian Ambassa- 
dor, 223, 241, 310, 326; at Hat- 
field, 330, 331 

Staal, Madame de, 236, 241, 323; 
described, 243 

Staal, Thekla, 226, 323 

Stainer, Dr., 348 

Stanhope, Lady, 18; entertains 
the Waddingtons and others, 
218, 219 

Stanhope, Lord, 219 

Stanhope, Mr. and Mrs. Edward, 
218 

Stanhope, Philip, 361 

Stanley, Dowager Lady, 181, 182 

Stanleys, 355 

Struve, M. and Mdme. de, 120 

Stewart, Lady Helen, 317 

Stuart, Miss, 348 

Sudely, Lord, 297 

Suffield, Lady, 363 

Suffield, Lord, 363 

Sullivan, Sir Arthur, 271, 272 

Sutherland, Duchess of, 236 

Sweden, Crown Prince of, 93, 253 



412 



INDEX 



Sweden, King of, 142, 143 
Sweden, Prince Royal of, 145 
Sydney, Lord, 359 

Tadema, Alma, 379 

Talleyrand, Bessie, 391 

Tavistock, Lord, 281 

Teck, Duke of, 236 

Teesdale, 369 

Tennyson, 183 

Thenard, 284, 285; assists produc- 
ing the children's comedy, 315 
et seq. 

Thomson, Mr., 339 

Thornton, Lady, 37, 80, 88, 104; 
at the Court ball, 74; aboard 
the Lancaster, 121, 122 

Thornton, Mary, 126 

Thornton, Sir Edward, 40, 83, 89 

Thornycroft, 278, 279 

Toll, Count and Countess, 153 

Tornielli, 352, 361, 377 

Tosti, 272, 275, 306 

Trebelli, 276 

Tremouille, Charlotte de la, 230 

Trevelyans, 355 

Troubetzkoi, Princess Lise, 49, 

Tweeddale, Lady, 201 
Tweedmouth, Lord, 354 

Val Prinsep, 388, 390 

Vannutelli, Mgr., 96, 98, 118; 
visits the Lancaster, 122, 123 

Victoria, Princess, 320, 397 

Victoria, Queen, receives Mme. 
Waddington, 176, 177; de- 
scribed, 177; at Windsor Castle, 
192, 193, 238, 239; Drawing- 
room, 206; holds long Draw- 
ing-room, 213, 214; opens Par- 
liament, 235-238; at the Jubilee 
ceremonies in Westminster Ab- 



bey, 249, 250; in the procession 
after the service, 250, 251; re- 
ceives at the Palace, 252, 253; 
at the children's fete in Hyde 
Park, 254, 255; reviews the Vol- 
unteers, 257, 258; at the Naval 
Review, 260-264; with the Em- 
press Frederick at Windsor, 
310, 311; bids farewell to the 
Waddingtons, 368, 370-372; re- 
ceives Mme. Waddington at 
Osborne, 397-401; death, 402 

Villiers, 226 

Villestreux, Mdme. de la, 364, 365, 

373 
Vinci, Comte, 350 
Vivian, Lady, 210 
Vivian, Lord, 151, 153 

Waddington, Francis, 10 et pas- 
sim; as an actor, 285, 315 ct 
seq; placed in a French school, 
332 

Waddington, Mme., meets Mr. 
and Mrs. Gladstone, 3; M. 
Waddington appointed Ambas- 
sador Extraordinary to Mos- 
cow, to represent France at 
the Coronation of Emperor 
Alexander, 4-6; preparations 
for Moscow, 6-12; arrives at 
Berlin, 13, 14; impression of 
Berlin, 15; visits the de Bun- 
sens, 17, 19; goes to the races, 
18; departure from Berlin, 22; 
dines at Alexandrownow with 
a Hessian Prince, 23; reaches 
Warsaw, 24; describes the city, 
24; visits a chateau, 25; the 
trip from Warsaw to Moscow, 
26-31; arrival at Moscow, 31, 
32; description of the Maison 
Klein, 32, 33; experiences with 



INDEX 



4i3 



a Court train, 36; drives 
through Moscow, 37-39; the 
Emperor's entrance into the 
Kremlin, 42-46; received by the 
Empress, 47-52; visits Princess 
Obolenski, 52 ; goes over the 
palaces at the Kremlin, 54; fa- 
mous paintings and jewels in 
the Church of the Assomption, 
54; visits Princess Radziwill 
and Countess Pahlen, 55 ; at 
the reception of the Arch 
Duke and Duchess Albert of 
Austria, 56-58; attends recep- 
tion at M. de Giers', 58; au- 
dience with Grand Duchess 
Michel, 59, 60; with the Grand 
Duchess Constantine, 60, 61; 
with the Duchesse d'Oldenburg, 
61; and the Grand Duchess 
Wladmir, 61; dines with the 
permanent French Embassy, 
62; the Coronation of Emperor 
Alexander, 63-67, 70, 71; the 
Coronation breakfast, 67-70 ; at 
the presentation of felicitations 
to the Emperor and Empress, 
71-73', presented to the Queen 
of Greece, 71, 72; appearance 
of the Embassies, 72, 73; goes 
to the Court ball, 73-75; dances 
with the Emperor and Grand 
Duke Wladimir, 74, 75; the 
Fete Populaire, 76, 82 ; gives a 
Russian dinner, 76, 77; the 
great ball at the Palace, 77, 78; 
goes shopping, 78, 95; attends 
the Opera, 79, 80; tea with the 
Empress, 80; gives a diplo- 
matic dinner, 83, 96, 99, 100; 
photographing the whole es- 
tablishment, 83, 84; at the Pal- 
ace ball, 85-90; sees the Tresor, 



91; the gala dinner, 92-94; the 
institution of the "Enfants 
Trouves," 95, 96; gives a recep- 
tion, 100, 101; the revue at the 
Tribune Imperiale, 102-104; 
sightseeing in Moscow, 106; 
preparations for leaving Mos- 
cow, 107, 108, 109; takes a 
moonlight drive to the Krem- 
lin, 109, no; departure from 
Moscow, in; the journey to 
Petersburg, nr, 112; descrip- 
tion of Petersburg, 113, 114; the 
Hermitage, 113, 115, 116; "La 
Pointe," 114, 115; the pictures 
at the Hermitage, 116, 117, 118; 
makes an excursion to Peterhof, 
116, 117; dinner at the Hunts', 
120; entertained by Admiral 
Baldwin on board the flag- 
ship Lancaster, 120-123; visits 
the Thorntons, 124, 125; shop- 
ping in Petersburg, 126; the 
voyage by steamer to Stock- 
holm, 126-134; description of 
Helsingfors, 129, 130; Abo, the 
old capital of Finland, 132; the 
approach to Stockholm, 134; 
drives through Stockholm, 135- 
139; to Drottningholm, 138, 
139; shopping in Stockholm, 
141, 142; journeys from Stock- 
holm to Copenhagen, 144, 145; 
drives through Copenhagen, 145, 
147, 151, 154, 155; visits the His- 
torical Museum, 146; a pleasant 
expedition to Tivoli, 148, 149; 
the Thorwaldsen Gallery, 149; 
a Swedish wedding at the 
Frauen Kirche, 149, 150; the 
excessive heat, 150, 153, 160; 
sees the treasures at Rosen- 
burg, 152; M. de Kergorlay's 



4H 



INDEX 



dinner, 152, 153 ; departure 
from Copenhagen, 157; from 
Korsoe to Kiel, 157, 158; arrives 
at Hamburg, 158; view of Ham- 
burg from the lake, 161; a 
moonlight drive, 163, leaves 
Hamburg, 163; arrives at Co- 
logne, 163, 164; returns to 
Paris, 165; stays at Boulogne- 
sur-Mur, 167; crosses to Eng- 
land, 167, 168; inspects her 
future home in London, 168, 
169, 170, 171; visits the Monks, 
172, 173, 174; getting settled in 
London, 173, 174; presented to 
the Queen, 175-177; Windsor 
Castle, 177, 178; has an au- 
dience of the Prince and Prin- 
cess of Wales, 178, 179; with 
the Duchess of Cambridge, 180; 
domestic arrangements, 180, 
181; visits the Dowager Lady 
Stanley, 181; talks with Mr. 
Gladstone, 181, 182; politics, 
183; entertained by the Prince 
and Princess of Wales at Sand- 
ringham, 184-186; attends a 
hunt and hunt ball, 187, 188; at 
Mr. Gladstone's reception, 188, 
189; commanded to dine and 
sleep at Windsor, 191-194; first 
Drawing-room, 194-197; goes to 
the Derby, 197; to the meet of 
the Coaching Club and a polo 
game, 197, 198; reception at 
Devonshire House, 199; din- 
ners and routs, 199, 200; Lady 
Tweeddale's dinner, 201; at the 
ball of the Artillery Corps, 202; 
Drawing-room, 203, 204; sees 
the Queen, 204, 205; Westmin- 
ster Abbey, 205 ; visits Blenheim, 
209; conference "sur Racine," 



212; long Drawing-room, 213, 
214; visits Lady Salisbury at 
Hatfield, 215, 216; lunches with 
Prince and Princess of Wales, 
216; at Lord Aberdeen's hay- 
making party, 216, 217; Court 
concert, 217; spends Sunday at 
the Stanhopes, 218, 219; Lon- 
don fog, 221; Christmas shop- 
ping, 222, 224; farewell din- 
ner to Nigra, 223 ; celebrates 
Christmas, 225, 226; impres- 
sions of a Roman Christmas, 
227; visits at Knowsley, 227; 
228-232; portraits and literary 
treasures at Knowsley, 229, 230; 
visits the Falbes at Luton, 232- 
234; St. Paul's, 234; gives din- 
ners, 234, 235; attends the open- 
ing of Parliament, 235-238; at 
Windsor Castle again, 238, 239; 
drives to the Mausoleum, 239; 
spends Sunday at the Karolyis 
at Clieveden, 240, 241 ; defeat 
of the French troops at Tonkin, 
241; interesting old manu- 
scripts at Roll's Court, 242; 
Lady Ashburton's house, 242; 
at the Opera, 242, 243; visits the 
Tecks, 243, 244; presented to 
the Queen of the Sandwich 
Islands, 245-247; preparations 
for the Jubilee, 245, 247, 248; 
arranges to see the cortege im- 
mediately after the service in 
Westminster Abbey, 245-248- 
the Jubilee Te Deum, 248-250; 
the procession after the service, 
250, 251; the reception at the 
Palace, 251-253; the children's 
fete in Hyde Park, 253, 254; at 
the Rosebery's ball, 255, 256; 
the Palace ball, 256, 257; re- 



INDEX 



4*5 



ceives the Jubilee Medal, 257; 
the Naval Review, 259-264; 
aboard the Iphigenie, 261-263; 
skating, 266; funeral service 
for the German Emperor, 267; 
at the Smiths' political re- 
ception, 269, 270; musicales, 
270-273, 276; meets Princess 
Mary, 275; sightseeing, 276- 
278; christens a torpilleur, 278; 
races at Ascot, 279; visits the 
Duke and Duchess of Bedford, 
280-282; death of the Emperor 
Frederick, 282; dines with the 
Lord Mayor, 283, 284; produc- 
tion of a play by Berquin, 284- 
286; decides to go to Scotland, 
286; the journey to Edinburgh, 
287; sightseeing in Edinburgh, 
287, 288; arrives at Oban, 288; 
Scottish tartans, 289; by sea to 
Arishaig, 290, 291; stays at In- 
veraylort, 291-295; returns to 
London, 296; goes through 
Petticoat Lane with Canon 
Rogers, 298, 299; the People's 
Palace, 300; at the Court Ball, 
300, 301 ; the Shah's arrival by 
water, 301, 302; the luncheon 
party at Hatfield in the Shah's 
honour, 302-304; wedding of 
Princess Louise and the Duke 
of Fife, 305; skates at Hatfield, 
306, 307; and at Wimbledon, 
307; attends a horse sale, 308, 
309; at Windsor, 310-313; sees 
"Charlie's Aunt," 313; luncheon 
with the Empress Frederick, 
314; with Lady Northcote at the 
Opera, 314, 315; the children's 
comedy, 315 et seq.; formal 
entry of the German Emperor 
William II. into London, 323, 



324; reception of the Emperor 
and Empress, 325, 326; Garden 
Party at Marlborough House, 
326; goes to the luncheon at 
Hatfield for the German Em- 
peror, 328-332; places son in a 
French school, 332; sickness 
and death of Prince Eddie, 333 
et seq.; visits the British Mu- 
seum, 339; visits the Tecks, 340- 
342 ; visits "Venice," 343 ; ex- 
cursion to Herkomer's studio, 
344-346; opens the bazaar, 346, 
347; gives a dinner of organ- 
ists, 348; arranges a "toy sym- 
phony," 350-352; at the Italian 
Embassy, 352, 377 ; the Salva- 
tion Army, 353 ; English wom- 
en in politics, 355 ; dines with 
the Gladstones to meet the 
Archbishop of Canterbury, 355, 
356; band of the "Garde Re- 
publicaine," 357; visits the Duf- 
ferins at Walmer Castle, 358- 
360; last outings, 361; leaves 
for the Tyrol, 361; returns to 
England, 362; says good-bye to 
Princess Mary and Princess 
May, 362; hears Mr. Glad- 
stone's speech on Ireland, 363; 
farewell visits, 363, 364; farewell 
dinner for M. Waddington at 
the Mansion House, 364-367; 
last visit to Windsor, 368, 369; 
last Drawing-room, 369; fare- 
well audience from Queen Vic- 
toria, 370-372; at the French 
bazaar, 373, 374; a musical 
afternoon at Mile. Humlicher's, 

374, 375; presented with a jewel, 

375, 376; entertains Princess 
Mary and Princess May, 377, 
378; visits Princess Louise and 



416 



INDEX 



Alma Tadema, 379; Easter 
Service in Westminster Abbey, 
379. 380; m the Temple Church, 
380; "Diner d'Adieu" at the 
Turkish Embassy, 380; depart- 
ure from London, 381-383; arri- 
val in Paris, 383; hears the Wag- 
ner operas at Bayreuth, 384, 
385; visits Mary de Bunsen,386; 
goes to the opera in Wiesba- 
den, 386, 387; received by the 
Empress Frederick at Cron- 
berg, 387-300; at Cowes, 391 
et seq.; meets the Prince and 
Princess of Wales at Cowes, 
393-395; visits the Empress 
Eugenie, 395, 396; aboard the 
Nahma, 397 ; a long audience 
with the Queen at Osborne, 
397-400 
Waddington, Richard, 7 et passim 
Waddington, M. William, report 
of his appointment as Ambassa- 
dor to Vienna, 4; appointed 
Ambassador Extraordinary at 
Moscow to represent France at 
the Coronation of Emperor 
Alexander, 4-6; personnel of 
the Mission, 7; has an audi- 
ence from the Emperor of Ger- 
many, 17, 19; visits Bismarck, 
17, 18, 21 ; received by Emperor 
Alexander, 35, 36 ; at the re- 
ception of the Arch Duke and 
Duchess Albert of Austria, 56- 
58; at the Coronation of Em- 
peror Alexander, 42 et seq.; 
farewell audience with the Em- 
peror, 99; studies the medals at 
the Museum in Petersburg, 113, 
115, 116, 1 18, 123; his capacity 
for work, 122; visits the Min- 
istre des Affaires Etrangeres at 



Stockholm, 139, 140; received 
by the King of Sweden, 142, 
143; examines the medals in the 
Museum at Copenhagen, 146, 
148, 149, 154, 155, 156; dines 
with Gladstone, 168; entertained 
by Lord Granville, 170, 171; 
shoots with Charles Monk, 172- 
174; audience with the Prince 
and Princess of Wales, 178, 179; 
at Windsor Castle, 191-193, 238; 
goes to Paris, 198; meets old 
friends, 207; sees the Oxford 
and Cambridge boat race, 207; 
follows Sir Walter Raleigh's 
example, 207, 208; goes to 
Paris, 208; talks with the 
Queen, 214; shoots at Knows- 
ley, 229; talks with Lecky on 
Ireland, 229; dislike of dancing, 
274; bids at a horse sale, 308, 
309; at Windsor, 311, 312; dines 
at Mr. Murray's with Mr. Glad- 
stone, 315; death of his mother, 
«., 325; at the luncheon at Hat- 
field for the German Emperor, 
328-332; at the funeral of 
Prince Eddie, 337; talks with 
Lady Salisbury, 346; given a 
farewell dinner at the Mansion 
House, 364-367; farewell visit 
to Windsor, 368, 369; Direct- 
eur du Canal Suez, 382 

Wagner, Mdme., 389 

Wagner, Richard, 345 

Wagram, Princesse de, on Bou- 
langer, 268 

Waldemar de Danemark, Prince, 
93, 98, 203 

Wales, Prince and Princess of, 
37; receive the Waddingtons, 
178, 179; entertain at Sandring- 
ham, 184-186; at Buckingham 



INDEX 



4i7 



Palace, 195; in House of Lords, 
201 ; at the ball given by the 
Artillery Corps, 202; Drawing- 
room, 203; visit to Ireland, 210; 
at the opening of Parliament, 
236-238; at the Opera, 243; at 
the Jubilee Te Deum, 249, 250; 
at the children's fete, 253-255; 
driving, 276; open the Court 
Ball, 300, 301; at Hatfield, 303, 
304, 329-331; at the children's 
comedy, 320-322; their popular- 
ity, 3271 death of Prince Eddie, 
334; bid farewell to the Wad- 
dingtons, 363, 364; at Cowes, 
393 et seq. 

Warren, Mrs., 396 

Warren, Sir Charles, 246, 247 

Wantage, Lord and Lady, 358 

Warsoe, M., 151, 152 

Waru, military attache, 226, 259 

Wellington, Lord, 358 

Westminster, Duchess of, 274 

White, Harry, 218, 314 

White, Muriel, 317, 318 

Whitehouse, Harry, 145, 147 

Wilhemi, 345 

William I., Emperor, gives an 
audience to M. Waddington, 
17, 19; death, 266; funeral ser- 
vice, 267 

William II., Emperor, as Crown 
Prince, 267; State Banquet for, i 



323; formal entry into London, 
323, 324; at the Opera, 325; re- 
ceives at Buckingham Palace, 
325, 326; goes to the Lord 
Mayor's Banquet, 327; rides in 
the Row, 327; given a luncheon 
at Hatfield, 328-331; returns to 
Germany, 331 
Williams, Florence, 226, 348 
Wilson, Sir Rivers, 276 
Wimborne, Lord, 354, 379 
Wladimir, Grand Duchess, 61, 80 
Wladimir, Grand Duke, at the 
coronation of his brother, Em- 
peror Alexander, 66; at the 
Court ball, 74, 75; his care for 
the Emperor, 77; at the Palace 
ball, 86; at the revue, 103 
Wolff, Johannes, 270-272, 276, 

314 
Wolseley, General, 58, 89 
Wormser, 314 

Worontzoff, Count, 77, 80, 116 
Wurts, George, 120 
Wyckham, Col., 147 
Wyndham, 286 

York, Duke of, 363, 393, 397 
Yves, 190 

Xenia, Grand Duchess, 45 

Zuylen, Mdme. de, 274 




























































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